Finally, b20/vtec
kris
11-17-2003, 12:54 PM
Well, finally, after running around straight B20, I put a B16 head on. So now I am offically fast. ;) Here is a pic with the head off, and one with it complete. It looks like any other B16 swap, but sure doesnt feel like it. :)
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/577Set2_02-med.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/577Set11_01.jpg
Let me say, this thing rocks. I am definatly feeling the LS tranny now, and could use a lightweight flywheel. Also, remember, whenever you do a swap, make sure you tighten the ground on the thermostat. I spent two hours trying to figure out why my car wouldnt start. It was all due to a 10mm bolt. :banghead:
I still need to do a little tuning, and then I am going to hit the dyno up.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/577Set2_02-med.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/577Set11_01.jpg
Let me say, this thing rocks. I am definatly feeling the LS tranny now, and could use a lightweight flywheel. Also, remember, whenever you do a swap, make sure you tighten the ground on the thermostat. I spent two hours trying to figure out why my car wouldnt start. It was all due to a 10mm bolt. :banghead:
I still need to do a little tuning, and then I am going to hit the dyno up.
GTA
11-17-2003, 01:06 PM
nice :D did you just slap the head on without any other work done to the engine?
kris
11-17-2003, 01:12 PM
nice :D did you just slap the head on without any other work done to the engine?
Yep. I have a spare B20 block that is getting sent off to be built (resleaved, etc) so that I can put some 11.1 pistons in.
The only real machine work needed was to plug a oil line in the b16 head, and drill out the dowel pin holes to 14mm from a 12mm hole.
Yep. I have a spare B20 block that is getting sent off to be built (resleaved, etc) so that I can put some 11.1 pistons in.
The only real machine work needed was to plug a oil line in the b16 head, and drill out the dowel pin holes to 14mm from a 12mm hole.
XxLuckyLisaxX
11-17-2003, 03:17 PM
thats awesome kris so when u gonna get some times on it, im curious.
91civicDXdude
11-17-2003, 03:30 PM
thats pretty nice, but just think of how good it will run with the high compression pistons that VTEC cams were intended for
Ace$nyper
11-17-2003, 04:05 PM
yeaaa looking sweet. swap looks real clean
91civichatch2571
11-17-2003, 04:53 PM
come up here to NY and give me a ride in that mofo! Good work Kris. :worshippy
Jeff C
11-17-2003, 04:56 PM
Welcome to the club! :iceslolan
Are you using a 1g b16 head?
Are you using a 1g b16 head?
Black91si
11-17-2003, 05:01 PM
My boy has a b20 in his 92 cx hatch, He beat an Evo on the high way at top end speeds. They guy had to pull him over to see if he was juiceing.LOL all motor baby..I have pics of it upon request. And he beat a type r with turbo in the 1/4 mile.Oh yea and a 2000si port and polished top and bottom motor spraying on him in the 1/4mile..Your going to get a alot of respect with that motor
BigBearWest
11-17-2003, 05:50 PM
wicked man!
jam4484
11-17-2003, 07:13 PM
The swap looks real nice. Keep us posted with what else you do to it..
91civichatch2571
11-18-2003, 08:50 AM
Is that motor reliable? Will it last a few years?
4GZChatch
11-18-2003, 11:22 AM
I wanna see some Dyno sheets on there! I am interested in what kinda power you're laying down. Can you get any traction?!?! Nice work on that swap! :naughty: :evillol:
amy@af
11-18-2003, 11:28 AM
are you finally going fast? :screwy: :smokin:
kris
11-18-2003, 12:25 PM
are you finally going fast? :screwy: :smokin:
lol, yeah, I hope so. :D
Any motor is as reliable as you build it, or treat it. I kow of a few LS/vtec's pushing 25k miles on it, and still pulling as strong as the day it was installed.
Not sure on what numbers I will pull yet. Just have to wait and see.
We set up a race last night against a built B18C powered EG, that shifts at 9500, that was stripped of everything but the dash and two seats. I know the kid pretty good, and he is a damn good driver. Let me say, I am very satisfied with my motor, compared to that car. We made a few runs, and each time, the outcome depended on who had the better launch. We always pulled damn near even.
Yes, traction is an issue.
lol, yeah, I hope so. :D
Any motor is as reliable as you build it, or treat it. I kow of a few LS/vtec's pushing 25k miles on it, and still pulling as strong as the day it was installed.
Not sure on what numbers I will pull yet. Just have to wait and see.
We set up a race last night against a built B18C powered EG, that shifts at 9500, that was stripped of everything but the dash and two seats. I know the kid pretty good, and he is a damn good driver. Let me say, I am very satisfied with my motor, compared to that car. We made a few runs, and each time, the outcome depended on who had the better launch. We always pulled damn near even.
Yes, traction is an issue.
91civichatch2571
11-18-2003, 02:24 PM
I know there are obviously a lot of variables, but about how much would you say a B20/vtec swap costs? Im curious because I might need a project to build next year in school and this engine has been one of my possibilities.
kris
11-18-2003, 02:48 PM
I know there are obviously a lot of variables, but about how much would you say a B20/vtec swap costs? Im curious because I might need a project to build next year in school and this engine has been one of my possibilities.
Okay, assuming you buy a complete B20 motor, and not just a B20 block. All of this is just what I typically see, for a stock setup. Also, this is if you do it all yourself.
Motor-$900
vtec head (B16) Complete- $350
B16 distributor- $150
B16 ECU- $200
Machine work (unless you are comfortable doing this yourself)- $50
New OEM vtec head bolts- $60
OEM headgasket- $50
OEM timing belt- $40
Oil line- $50
Electrical supplies- $20
Fluids- $20
radiator hose- $10
total- $1900
Now, thats assuming you pay market price on parts. There are deals to be made out there. I have seen B20 blocks go for $500 or so, and I picked up my B16 head for $150 complete. Traded an OBDII vtec dizzy for a non OBD vtec dizzy. Also, there is the possibility of resaling your old parts, etc.
Okay, assuming you buy a complete B20 motor, and not just a B20 block. All of this is just what I typically see, for a stock setup. Also, this is if you do it all yourself.
Motor-$900
vtec head (B16) Complete- $350
B16 distributor- $150
B16 ECU- $200
Machine work (unless you are comfortable doing this yourself)- $50
New OEM vtec head bolts- $60
OEM headgasket- $50
OEM timing belt- $40
Oil line- $50
Electrical supplies- $20
Fluids- $20
radiator hose- $10
total- $1900
Now, thats assuming you pay market price on parts. There are deals to be made out there. I have seen B20 blocks go for $500 or so, and I picked up my B16 head for $150 complete. Traded an OBDII vtec dizzy for a non OBD vtec dizzy. Also, there is the possibility of resaling your old parts, etc.
91civichatch2571
11-18-2003, 04:02 PM
wow, thanks man. I was only expecting an estimated guess but got the whole list. Thats not a bad price for something that probly runs 13's. Thanks a lot Kris.
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