HELP - Rodeo Cranking but Not Starting when warm

I have a 99 v6 4x4 Rodeo wtih 83k miles, that is giving me trouble starting. I've had it in the shop twice for this problem but they are assuring me there isn't any problem.

It started a few weeks ago when my car stalled at a light. I couldn't get it started. It finally would start, but the check engine light was on. The dealer reset the ecm and said it would be fine. It ran for a few days without a hitch.

Now periodically it is hard to start - seems very sporadic. I can go most of a day and not have a problem. Then for some reason it will just decide on to fire. It turns over but nothing. I let it sit for about 30 min to 2 hours and it seems to start. I've brought it back in after the first few incidences (following the stalling problem) and been told there isn't anything being returned on the computer.

Also, when it is running, even after a tough bout of getting it going, it runs like new. It seems that I have more trouble getting it to re-start after it's warm or I've been on the highway for a while. I have no problems once it's going, it is smooth, idles fine, and has power. Also, when I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds. Could it be something as simple as plugs needing to be changed?

Thanks!

You can take a look at the spark plugs and if they need to be replaced, replace them with some nippendenso plugs (2eyedfishclaw highly recommends them). also check the fuel filter, that is an easy change.

...just my 2 cents

I saw on another post that this could be a worn Crank Sensor. Is this possible? What does it mean to replace this?

I'd like to trade it in, but if I can't keep it running it makes it tough. I really don't want to put in $$ on a new sensor or not have it start at a dealership.

Also, I'm having fuel sender probs too. I'm getting whacky gas readings. This I can live with, but the no starting is fusterating. Thanks for the help.

I've done some more research and am more confused. Could this be a crank shaft position sensor issue or a cam shaft sensor issue.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=148041&highlight=crankshaft+sensor

Are either replaceable by a non-mechanic (like myself)? If yes, where would I find some instructions...thanks!

I think it is the fuel filter, because this is the same thing that happened to me. I would pull a plug and take a look at it, if it seems fine then I would take off the fuel filter to see if it seems plugged up. both are relatively simple to do and inexpensive. My filter got clogged after I put some fuel injector cleaner in the gas. I think that the crank pos sensor would be a pain in the arse to change but the cam pos sensor seems pretty easy (but that is on my 4 cyl). I would pick up a Hayne's or Chilton's manual to see what it entails.

I suggest changing ignition components. It sounds like you haven't tuned it up recently. Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. If you haven't done it recently, it can't hurt. I'd also check the ignition coil.

forget the crank sensor
from what you are describing it sounds like you may possibly have an EGR concern the valve will open around 45mph if it is carboned up and sticking at times it could be causing all of your woes did your dealer happen to tell you what your DTC was (trouble code) if not they should have it doccumented on the repair order call them let me know what it is with this I should be able to point you in the right direction

Error Codes:

Current-
P0483 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High

Old (one time in many starts) -
P0352 Ignition 1 Control Circuit
P1625 ECM/PCM Reset
P0705 Trans Range

Thanks for the help. The engine is also using oil (~1qt per 1000miles). Will this clog the catalytic converter? I've got 83k miles and am wondering if I should get out from under this thing while it's still worth something.

What are your thoughts? It seems to be falling apart. This in addition to major pinging when going up hills, which I understand can be corrected with ngk or denso plugs (I still have factory plugs). Thanks for your help and opinion.

Note: I also need to replace my fuel sending unit as I'm getting whacky gas gauge readings.

P0483 you have an issue with the fuel sending unit remove the pump, on the sending unit you will see the metal arms they wear you can bend them so that they properly contact the resistor or yo can replace the sening unit it ccost about $40

p0352 is not an ignition concern it is injector controll circuit there have been a few issues causing this first check the H-connectors at the drivers side not sure on the 99 if they are under the p/s resivoir or mounted at the drivers fender disconnect all of them slightly twist all of the pins in the male side of the four connectors if this does not work your problem will be found in the engine harness between the PCM and where the harness goes around the valve cover open the harness pyull on everey wire one at a time pull hard you may find one of thewm broken inside of the insulation or just a ground that has poor contact

dont worry about P1625 this code is set anytime DTC's are cleared and will not cause the check engine light to illuminate

P0705 trans range switch illegal position usually sets due to water intrusion it would be a good idea to replace it but not necessary unless there are any trans concerns this can cause the check engine light to illumnate

hope this info is helpful contact me if you need at [email protected]

That's my bad on the ignition components. I also have the distributorless ignition system. No cap, rotor, and wires. Coil pack sitting over each spark plug on the valve cover. I've been posting about my other car and got confused. Sorry!