Vtec controller?

Hey i am new here.

I just got a 95 prelude vtec, i have exaughst, performance header, and intake. I want to know if a vtec controller would be the way to go? I am going to the track in a few months and i am going to be taking on a 95 mustange GT. If anyone has any suggestions of mods i can do without turbo or NOS that would be great. So any info on a vtec controller let me know, thanks alot!

i'm not sure a vtec controller would do much at the current stage you're at. put in some more mods, and a vtec controller might be of more use. i could be wrong though.

:2cents:

If i could get any more help that would be awsome, thanks!!

how much money are you willing to spend

Around $300, i have my eye on an Apexi V-AFC which is $299.

300 isnt much, a vtec controller could only be useful if its dynotuned. Don't be ignorant and think oh im just gonna lower the vtec point :nono: If you are going that route get it tuned by pros.
For 300 you can get pullies for around a hundred something other than that 300 is not much.

hondata anyone?

I am not ignorant, i would get it dyno tested, i have talked to a few other people about it. If you just tune the fuel/air mixture..a 25HP increase can be achieved. That sounds pretty good..thats not even messing with Vtec

the vtec controller won't do you much without the a/f controller. that's the feature that's gonna do you the most good. but then that doesn't help without a dyno. changing the engagement point won't give you more power like too many people think. it'll just flatten the power curve more for more usable power if you lower it. adjusting the a/f ratio dependant on what mods you have will allow you to utilize whatever gains you may get from your other mods. but with just i/h/e, don't expect too much. if you're FI or have nitrous, that's when a v-afc will be most beneficial.

some vafc's will allow you to play with the fuel pressure, which isn't too flexible with the stock injectors as they're near maxed out stock already.
i wouldn't even both with the hondata unless you you have major mods done.

if you're not seriously modified, the only thing a vtec controller will allow you is the ability to stay in the vtec range when shifting. that's pretty good but it's the air/fuel controller that's most beneficial

Thanks for all that info. I was thinking about just leaving vtec where it is and doing the a/f ratio, getting that dyno tested and tuned. But if this isn't going to help me much, then what else could i do to my engine other then turbo/nitrus? I am trying to leave my engine without all those mods that will put alot of strain on it....so if you have any suggestions please give them to me.

Thanks alot

well like the guy said earlier pullies are a good way to go.. just get the set with the a/c and alternator pulley.. go with the AEM set with out the crank pulley that will mess with harmonic something or other. if your looking for more go with the type s stuff for the prelude. like the pistons, cams, and such and such. and then mess with the a/f ratio and then get it tuned. so your not spening too much tuning it multiple times.

and about the below statement... i have now seen a lude ricer.. so nvm that whole statement

well like the guy said earlier pullies are a good way to go.. just get the set with the a/c and alternator pulley.. go with the AEM set with out the crank pulley that will mess with harmonic something or other. if your looking for more go with the type s stuff for the prelude. like the pistons, cams, and such and such. and then mess with the a/f ratio and then get it tuned. so your not spening too much tuning it multiple times.

and about the below statement... i have now seen a lude ricer.. so nvm that whole statement

you know what, i wouldn't even bother with type s stuff. they're only marginally better than the non type s stuff. spend a little more for crowers, jun, or skunk.

and i'd suggest against playing with your a/f ratio without having a dyno readily available. too risky without.

you may try some weight saving mods, like a carbon fiber hood and/or lightweight wheels. you'd be surprised how much quicker your car will be if you take off some weight without even adding more power.

So what do you think with an Apexi V AFC a/f ratio and vtec controller, and dyno tested and tuned what i would be looking at for hp gain? I am not planning on changing Vtec..

If i were u i would go for msd the 6al and the msd coil that would make ur vtech twice as strong. (about $225)
And the vtech controller i dont think its that good for ur car if u drive it every day. cause i herd lot of guys say that when they overuse there vtech too much they kill it so i would just go with msd you should gain about 35-40 hp. And with the rest of the money i would go with a short shifter u would go through the gears much faster.

If i were u i would go for msd the 6al and the msd coil that would make ur vtech twice as strong. (about $225)
And the vtech controller i dont think its that good for ur car if u drive it every day. cause i herd lot of guys say that when they overuse there vtech too much they kill it so i would just go with msd you should gain about 35-40 hp. And with the rest of the money i would go with a short shifter u would go through the gears much faster.

Now everyone, be nice.. Nobody likes to learn from an asshole.

For starters.. a coil wont give you that much of a gain at all.. and the MSD 6al is mainly used as a safeguard against overrev. You might feel a smoother idle, or a little better throttle response, but the gains are minimal over stock ignition on a mildly modified car.

Nextly, run in VTEC range all you want. As long as you are taking care of your oil system, you should be fine. I take my car close to redline every other time I drive it. It's where the power is. I've never had a problem due to it. I don't have an h22, so I really have no experience with a prelude VTEC, but I'd imagine it'd be damn near impossible to drive out of VTEC range all the time.

Lastly, everyone THINKS they know much about cars. I know I am guilty of it. Just try to do a little research before you throw out a number so wild as 35 HP from a coil.

I don't mean to flame at all, and do not want to sound like the guys in the 240 forums. AF should be a learning environment.

Now everyone, be nice.. Nobody likes to learn from an asshole.

For starters.. a coil wont give you that much of a gain at all.. and the MSD 6al is mainly used as a safeguard against overrev. You might feel a smoother idle, or a little better throttle response, but the gains are minimal over stock ignition on a mildly modified car.

Nextly, run in VTEC range all you want. As long as you are taking care of your oil system, you should be fine. I take my car close to redline every other time I drive it. It's where the power is. I've never had a problem due to it. I don't have an h22, so I really have no experience with a prelude VTEC, but I'd imagine it'd be damn near impossible to drive out of VTEC range all the time.

Lastly, everyone THINKS they know much about cars. I know I am guilty of it. Just try to do a little research before you throw out a number so wild as 35 HP from a coil.

I don't mean to flame at all, and do not want to sound like the guys in the 240 forums. AF should be a learning environment. Well said and very true!!

Hey no one wants to learn from and asshole right,
have u ever drove a vtec prelude with msd? and about the vtech being used to much i never had a problem with it(exept when my friends blew my vavles) but i heard lot of guys say when they use it 15-20 times a day they get problems with it so shit men read before u started being a smart ass. oh and what kid of a car u got?

Hey no one wants to learn from and asshole right,
have u ever drove a vtec prelude with msd? and about the vtech being used to much i never had a problem with it(exept when my friends blew my vavles) but i heard lot of guys say when they use it 15-20 times a day they get problems with it so shit men read before u started being a smart ass. oh and what kid of a car u got?

1.) You will not gain more than a few hp if any at all with a MSD ignition system on a more or less stock Prelude. It may make your car a bit more responsive and engine hesitation may become a bit better but that should be it! But it really won´t make your VTEC "twice as strong". And by the way, it is called "VTEC" and not "vtech". :wink:

2.) The people who say that they get problems with their engine when they hit VTEC 15-20 times a day a.) don´t know how to take care of their car or b.) are just talking a lot of shit! :screwy:

3.) To who did you talk in your last post?

:iagree:

Wel hey man then im wrong maybe the prelude that i drovbe in had more than just msd ignition. one mistake that i did vtech and vtec doent make me an idiot. so hey i dont wana be an asshole but if u all say it doesnt make it any stronger than thats what it is.

Hey no one wants to learn from and asshole right,
have u ever drove a vtec prelude with msd? and about the vtech being used to much i never had a problem with it(exept when my friends blew my vavles) but i heard lot of guys say when they use it 15-20 times a day they get problems with it so shit men read before u started being a smart ass. oh and what kid of a car u got?

Nope, never have driven a VTEC prelude with an MSD ignition. I based my post off of general automotive knowledge.

My intention wasn't to be a smart ass, but to inform you of your mistake before you went and posted it all over these forums (like the headwork you often talk about). If you expect me to be a smartass, however, I will gladly do so. I could have flamed you to a pile of ashes, but like I said, AF is a learning environment, and nobody likes to learn from an asshole.

I have a 1992 Prelude SI 4WS, what about you?

hey man i got a 97 honda prelude non sh i some how fd-up the head now its getting rebuilt i had four valves bent its gona cost me 1300 to fix. the reason i talk about rebuilding the head is cause i know a guy who has a h23block h22 vtec head fully rebuilt he said its the best thing he has ever drove and he has no problems with it. so i guess it depends on how u build ur car or how u like it. oh and is ur engine the sohc.

hey man i got a 97 honda prelude non sh i some how fd-up the head now its getting rebuilt i had four valves bent its gona cost me 1300 to fix. the reason i talk about rebuilding the head is cause i know a guy who has a h23block h22 vtec head fully rebuilt he said its the best thing he has ever drove and he has no problems with it. so i guess it depends on how u build ur car or how u like it. oh and is ur engine the sohc.

The 4th generation prelude SI came with the H23; a 2.3 liter, DOHC, non-VTEC engine.

Your friend might say it's the best thing he's ever driven, but that is all relative to what he drove before that.

I learned very early not to trust what everyone says about cars, and to do the research yourself. There are many people out there that claim things based off of what they heard, and it starts a brushfire of misinformation.

Well the reason i believe him is hes got a 95 civic hatch back that does high 12s and hes friends that are fixing my car say the same thing about h22 h23 combanation. so i dont know every one thinks different.

thanks man, yeah could you be a little nicer...i am new the the prelude world i am trying to learn..dont treat me like a bitch...lol...

ummm....could i get alittle more talk about the acutelly "Title" of this question i started? I want to know if a air/fuil ratio change would give me anymore power...of course this would be done with a dyno test and tune...so if you wise prelude dudes know...just give me some ideas...thanks

my bad it wasnt twords u though, and if u think i meant that ur and idiot for doing the full h22 swap i just heard from a lot of people that have done the h22 h23 combanation and they got more power and tourqe so sorry if i ofended u

Here is some info i found online about apex vtec timer. A'PEX introduces the first digital fuel computer that combines fuel computer functions with a VTEC engagement controller. The V-AFC features a user-definable, eight-point, adjustable fuel curve that can be set in 500 RPM increments. The range of fuel adjustment is +/- 50% at each of the user-defined setting points. The Fuel Adjustment function considers wide/narrow throttle and low/high camshaft settings, from which four different fuel maps are created (wide-low, wide-high, narrow-low, narrow-high). The integrated VTEC Controller adjusts the point at which the engine switches from the Lo to Hi cam during acceleration, as well as when the engine switches from the Hi to Lo cam during deceleration.
But if u think about it when u set ur vtec to turn on at 4500 rpm that would make ur car go faster cause ur vtec would work for longer. from 4500 till 7000 rpm u get an extra 500 rpm of vtec. i might be wrong though i never knew anyone with a vtec controller.

oh hey men i just read about vtec timers and it said that a common misconception of a VTEC controller is that changing the RPM engagement point alone will result in increased performance gains. Another misconception is that increasing fuel according to RPM will result in increased performance. and it said that u will get power out of it if u have a modified engine. another wesite said that u will only gain 5-10 hp unless u have a modified engine.