integra gsr with type r swap, help

Basically i have an integra here used to be a gsr with a type R engine. Basic bolt on's and 8lbs flywheel, 6 puck racing clutch. Here are the problems, i hate fixing other shops messes but here we go. When sitting at a stop light if we hit the brakes a few times everytime we do it the rpm's drop and start going up and down, some times when the car is just sitting there idleing it does it. Had the same problem on a del sol with a gsr engine and b16a2 head on it done from the same shop. Also when its cold the owner complains that it will take him like 1/2 hour to start it. Anyone have any clues on what the problems may be? I was thinking that the grounding wasn't good enough. The check engine light is on as well, but i have no idea how to get the ecu codes out of this ecu. I haven't dove into obdI or obdII yet, so im trying to now. Any help would be great.

Make sure to check all the vaccum lines.

check the o2 sensor as well.

usually (and hopefully), its something as simple as that.

Ok here is the deal, vaccum lines look ok, i mean ive never put one of these together. Lately ive been fixing the same shops problems. Does anyone have any diagrams for the vaccum lines for a b18c5? O2 sensor looks fine, the more i think about it the more i think its the flywheel. Because we had a del sol with a gsr block with b16a2 head on it with the same problem, it also had a 8 lb flywheel. But the same shop also did that swap so.... I replaced all the engine grounds with 4 gauge wire, helped it minorly, also replaced the tps sensor since it was broke where it is held on and only being held on by one bolt anyways. Yeah there are way too many things to list that this shop did a cob job on but you get the point. Thanks for the idea's so far, anyone think that it could be the flywheel?

I really doubt it being the flywheel, I would start looking at what code the ecu throws out. Look under the dash on the pass side and there is a green thing with 2 connector in it, on connector will have 2 wires you need to take a spade electrical connector or anything basically to connect the two wires, then turn the ignition on and watch the MIL. I think it will throw a Engine coolant temp sensor (code 6) or a MAP (code3) or TDC sensor (code 4,8,or 9). Really doubt it being the TDC sensor too, but I would say that the Temp sensor was either damaged during the swap or was not wired in correctly. I would start with these.

Thank you very much for the help its much appreciated. Now which connector are you talking about i mean what color are the wires, the last one i looked at had a big connector that had quite a few wires running in to it. Now that i think about it, it does sound like the ECT sensor. Now can i take one off pretty much any honda motor and it will work, I assume so. Sorry for so many questions...i just recently came over from the DSM community and am really only experienced with 4g crx/civics, and 5g preludes

btw how much for the headliner, because the one in this teg is crap. I assume it has a sunroof hole

I am not sure about the compatability of the ECT sensors but it would be worth a try I guess. I really think that it probably was not hook up or hooked up wrong etc. Also the connector will have a brown/white wire and black wire.

And as far as the Headliner PM me an offer and yes it has a hole for the sunroof. I have pics too if you want but we can talk about it in pm's.

Good call on the temp sensor, no more idle probs, even though i only tried it for like 2 minutes, but when i tapped on the brakes like last time it didn't surge. As for the light being on....its still there so i tried the jumper wire and its throwing code 3 and 4, but the idle problem isn't there anymore. Hmmmm

When i rev lightly to around 1500 holding the pedal steady, it does the surging problem, could that be the map and tdc? Know any cheap places to get those parts? Btw the temp sensor out of a zc works :)

Turns out it was the iac and knock sensor, the plug for the iac was in the knocksensor and the knock sensor plug is MIA, so that should be the only problem left besides the timing. Any idea what the pin's are for the knock sensor or maybe wire colors?

sorry for the laste reply but I have been tring to do alot of stuff lately. Anyhow the knock sensor should have a red wire with a blue stripe. If you need to fool the ecu you can ground out this wire and the ecu will think the knock sensor is operating normal and everything is fine. I would not leave it this way though b/c if the motor did start to ping the ecu will not be able to tell and pull timming. Hope this helps even though it is late.

oh and the pin is D3 for the knock sensor also.

I got all the wire and everything, made my own plug out of an old sir harness. Didn't fix the light. Then i grounded it like you said to do.....didn't fix the light, but its starting to pull like a Type R now. However the light still hasn't gone away. Also the other problem is the idle, basically it bounces from 1200-1800 or so just keeps doing it, unplugged the iacv still does it. Tried adjusting the idle screw, still does it, it seems to only do it when the car starts to warm up and when it is warm. I have no idea what to do about these problems now. Any suggestions?

what harness r u running...??