making an LS motor FAST!!??

i have a 91 ls special. and i wanted to try and make it as fast as i can. i was thinking i could get a b16 cable tranny, Crower cams, crower valve springs, AEM cam gears, and an intake manifold and exhaust. Does anyone have any input into what i should do or am i in the right direction for a FAST LS?

i already have Aem intake, DC 4-2-1 headers, Mugen ECU chip, ACT stage 3 clutch, and a lil shifter

also can you buy an LSD b16 cable tranny, if not can you have sent away to be converted?

Take the money you would have spent on the tranny and get a port and polish job for the head, then put in the crower 62404's and don't listen to people when they say that they are not streetable b/c they are wrong or don't know how to tune their cars. My friends 92 with the 404's intake, header, exhaust, and my chipped ecu was dead even with a B18c swaped hatch. So there is alot of potential in the B18A. Also I would upgrade then intake manifold b/c the 91 is not really that great either buy a skunk2 or get a 94-95 B18B maniflod if the budget is tight.

dont get a b16 tranny. gear ratios are low, your gas mileage will go to shit. think 5000rpm at freeway speeds (75-80).

get a Gude head. claims 50hp. its a port and polished head with a valve job and other goodies. much less down time.

alright so a b16 tranny would mean a bummer for gas milage, but i dont really care, so any know where it would be worth it as far as 1/4 mile time gain?

ive heard good things from skunk2 and guys who put in the cams, gears, valvesprings, and retainers, and intake manifold for the b18b run faster times than gsr's that are lightly modded... but u might be there already...

plus all that shit costs a grip

:iagree: i would go with the whole skunk 2 setup on my head if you ask me........from there you will get alot more out of your mods that you add after that....also change your fuel system and ignition and that will help out alot

Skunk2 makes nothing for the B18A/B motors only vtec motors. The only thing Skunk2 makes that will work on the non vtec motors are the intake manifold and cam gears.

they do, they just dont advertise it yet.

they do, they just dont advertise it yet.
Really? Then why can't you find it on there website and why does no one have it? Because it does not exsist :screwy: Skunk2 only makes cams for the VTEC DOHC motors and some d series motors too, but nothing for the non vtec b series motors. I am very sure about that! They do make some valve springs and reatiners but why would you want ot use them for cams from a different company? You have to match the valve spring pressures with the cam or you will have valve float problems or valve mushrooimg problems, also the spring/retainer kit they make is for turbo spec cams, which if they make they have not released yet. So if you have some link or info on these mistery cams for the non vtec's then post it up :smokin:

called word of mouth man.

seriously

One person cam say that something is possible or what ever and then spread the word by telling other people and convincing the people who don't know better and then it gets more and more commonly heard and all of a sudden people are swearing by it. Word of mouth can and has been wrong. It is not something that I would trust entirely. Think about it this way if a poser joined a site and posted that he had a this and that (which does not work together or exsist etc) , then somebody who knows nothing comes along and reads that they think that it is possible or it exsists etc, then the wrong information is then passed on to more people etc. Happens all the time. A good example of this wpoul be that nitrous will blow up your motor, and that LS/VTEC is very unreliable etc which is untrue, you just have to know what you are doing!

that could be true... might have been crowers with skunk manifold or whatever.

alright how about the edlebrock intake manifold, or that VENOM one, or has skunktwo had the best dyno test, or is it just the best bang for the buck, and i agree i have never seen skunk 2 cams, actually the only well know cams i have seen for a b18 a/b are crower cams, which you can buy valves and valve sprins to go with them, and most place that i have seen them have been at rebutable race shops that only sell the "BEST"...supposidly

i havent had any first or off hand experience with those manifolds... the only ones ive seen are the skunks and ive only heard good things once theyre installed. but installing them on an engine that is in an engine bay is a pain in the ass (reaching the bolts on the bottom of the flange)

Yea the bolts on the bottem of the manifold are a bitch to get to, also be sure to remember taht when removing the stock manifold that there is a bracket holding it to the engine along with the bolts on the flange.
As for the comparison topic the JG Edlebrock is good for turbo and the Skunk2 is good for N/A. That is the basic comparsion.

i just went to my mechanic and he said i should try and port the spare head i have at home by my self you guys that it would be that hard, not pollish it. and DOES ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING TO SAY ABOUT THE DAMN TRANNY QUESTION?

id get it done professionally if i were you... the guy probably isnt experienced in porting heads himself so he didnt want to mess it up for you im guessing.

so find a reputable engine shop/machine shop to get it done for you...

If you're gonna build a motor that you're gonna punish the hell out of...forget Skunk2 cams. My dad broke a Skunk2 cam on his type R engine in a 15 minute road race. Broke into 3 pieces. The cams might be okay for drag racing, I guess. I've heard RUMORS that Toda breaks too but I'm not sure about that.

If you have the money, I'd go with the quality shit...Mugen, or CTR cams.

ive heard rumors of toda cams licking balls when it comes to gains :P

...uhhh...dunno about lickin balls but Toda IS a good company. I've only heard of thier cams breaking...never seen it. :)

There are a few reasons cams can break due to people not installung them correctly etc. The biggest thing that can cause a cam to break is using ther wrong valve springs, you HAVE to use the correct amount of seat pressure or there will be too much extra strain on the camshafts. If you buy a set of cams be sure and use the springs that the same company makes and have them match them together for you, this is a must if you want them to be reliable, and avoid Valve float, camshaft breaking, and Valve mushrooming. Also you have to use a torque wrench and torque qll the caps the same and to spec or there can be some movement and snap broken camshaft. So don't blame the cams unless you know for a fact that they were poorly made and not installed wrong or with the wrong parts.

i have a 91 ls special. and i wanted to try and make it as fast as i can. i was thinking i could get a b16 cable tranny, Crower cams, crower valve springs, AEM cam gears, and an intake manifold and exhaust. Does anyone have any input into what i should do or am i in the right direction for a FAST LS?

i already have Aem intake, DC 4-2-1 headers, Mugen ECU chip, ACT stage 3 clutch, and a lil shifter

also can you buy an LSD b16 cable tranny, if not can you have sent away to be converted?

i guess ur going all motor than huh, if it was me i would go f/i. heres a dyno of what kind of power the ls can make when done right, just go to ls motor http://www.importreview.com/d_turbo.html . just because u have an ls doen't mean u can't go fast, although by this time that car is definately not street legal. :disappoin

yeah i have heard that f/i is really good on LS, but i dont have the money to get a turbo adn wihtout the tranny i think i would be able to afford to get most of my goals done

The tranny is absolutely a bog waste of money! When you start making more power the B16 tranny is going to start slowing you down. the car will actually accelerate faster with the LS tranny, if LSD is what you are really looking for then Quaife makes a kit for around $800-900. Also with the money the B16 tranyy id going to cost you, you could be alot faster with mods to the motor with that money. my .02

The best thing to do with a B18A1 motor is total seal piston rings,shoot and peen beams, balence crankshaft, clutchmasterstage 3 clutch & flywheel, cranecam valvesprings, spoon ECU, port and polish head w/ multi-angle valve ports, chirka header, k&n air filter,hasport cable to hydro conversion, crain stage 2 cams ITR valves head milled .015 in, costun exaust (no cat), Jacobs Ice ignition kit.(makes about 215 hp & 145ft lbs of TQ)

Your v-8 can't touch my '90 Honda Integra XSi!!!!