B16 or ZC???

Sup all, im looking to do a swapp soon, and i was wondering which motor has a higher potential, the zc or b16a1 vtec.??? whats the H/p of each, and which would be better for turbo???.. ive herd that zc is like 134hp and b16 is 157-160 hp.. is this right? which would be better for a CRX and which is easier to swapp and stuff :feedback:
a lil help plz

Ok im assuming you mean the DOHC ZC swap. Is the easiest. It is bolt in. You can also use your CRX transmission. If you have dpfi you need to wire it for mpfi. This by far is the easiest performance swap.It has 138hp. and i believe 108lbs tq. THe b16a which i think has the most tuning potential is 160hp. and 111tq. The b16a is oppiste of the zc bar far because it is a semi complicated swap. You need mounts linkage, rewire regardless of dpfi or mpfi, and a few other things that will give you a headache. But by far you will appreciate the b16s power. If you need moe tq. I wwould sugguest a ls swap or b18.

But if you use the zcs tranny u need shiftlinkage.
Its more a personaly preferance.

What do you need the power for??

A green light and go race or
a long haul highway race going 100+mpg.
I never get to real high rpms in 5th so i want more accelerations so id go with a b18. But its all about whats cheaper.

If interested in a b16 Go to www.osakajdmmotors.com the whole changeover kit is 1050 which is dirt cheap. And get the linkage.

Hopw this helps.

This question has been asked literally HUNDREDS of times. Try the search button in the top corner.

B16As are capable of 600+hp if you've got the moolah.

A green light and go race or
a long haul highway race going 100+mpg.
I never get to real high rpms in 5th so i want more accelerations so id go with a b18. But its all about whats cheaper

Do you have any experience with these motors? Or just opinion?
You want more acceleration on the highway? My B16 is reving at 5,000rpm on the highway, VTEC is just a touch of the gas away, and the car is gone. Same with stoplight racing, the shorter gearing of the B16 should put it on top most of the time with equal drivers.

LIES,
zc has 129 hp@6800 rpm and 106lb-ft@7300 rpm, (non-vtec) it comes out of the jdm 4g civic, you don't need to swap anything else to put in a zc but you will need to put in mpfi and an integra ecu to get the full potental, and the zc trannie has awesome gear ratio w/ a shitty 5th gear if your gonna use it for a daily driver this will provide lotta performance w/ good freeway gas mileage. nice for supercharging growing parts suppliers.

with vtec you will need the proper ecu (w/ vtec controller) and you MUST change to mpfi for the vtec to work.
d16z6 has 125 hp@6600 rpm and 106lb-ft@5200 rpm, (vtec) comes out of the usdm 5g civic si/ex 92-95 you will only need stock honda products easiest vtec to drop into your car but only sohc so less torque and not as racing perfered as dohc
b16a1 has 158 hp@7600 rpm and 112lb-ft@7000 rpm, (vtec) comes out of jdm 4g civic SiR parts should work from any other b16 engine, very cheep for the price, usually runnig 1500 w/ lsd :smokin: and what i am saving up for.
b16a has 160 hp@ 7600 rpm and 111lb-ft@7000 rpm, (vtec) comes out of 6g civic Si 99-00 and a whole lot of performance parts but quite pricie compared to the other engines i mentioned.

above hp and torque as quoted from december 2000 issue of sport compact car.

oh dood, here we go again... Everyone get out your guns and shoot!!! I personally like the throw-together-ability of the D-series motors, but the B's are definitely capable of more. Do a search and you'll find a bajillion threads on this topic. However, if you plan on going D-series, I say get a Z6 sohc. I just did one, and also have a dohc zc. The zc is cool, but the aftermarket support is not great, and the parts are all goofy, like the timing belt is from a b20 prelude, the diz from a 1g teg, the bottom end parts from the si, head gasket from another, bearings from another, etc.... I like that the Z6 is just about as good on power, vtec, and all USDM for good parts availability! Just my $0.02!

keep in mind if you do a engine swap you most likely won't be putting those numbers down off the bat due to the fact that there will be engine wear and other types of factors, id say average for a stock car with a b16 is around 150 from dyno sheets i have seen

More like 140.

More like 140.


Depends on who does the swap also

What are you talking about? How does who does the swap affect how much HP the motor puts out? There's no way you're gonna see more than 140hp out of a stock 1st gen B16. You'd be lucky to hit 140.

shyt ive seen around 130 for obd0 b16's if your lucky since they are older

seriously i would go with an ls swap, aftermarket support just like the b16, you can go turbo or you can even throw on a vtec head and you could go all motor

after i graduate i plan to have a turbo ls since i will be working full time it wont take long after i graduate, i did want to go sing cam but that might be for another project i just want this one finished before summer ends so i can buy my dream car

hey i say make up your own mind but yhea i forgot to mention that jdm hp isn't street legal, you will loose some hp by making it street legal, plus if you stay w/ a usdm then you will have more parts selection. if you have pleanty of free time, look for the b17a1 it's a 1.7 liter engine from the 2g integra GS-R w/ 160 hp@7600 rpm and 117lb-ft@7000 rpm. limited parts but kinda nifty of a catch.

hey i say make up your own mind but yhea i forgot to mention that jdm hp isn't street legal, you will loose some hp by making it street legal, plus if you stay w/ a usdm then you will have more parts selection.

Explain yourself. How is JDM HP different if its in your USDM car!?
And how is the USDM parts selection different than the JDM engines? Any engine other than the ZC has a USDM counterpart you can use parts for.

What are you talking about? How does who does the swap affect how much HP the motor puts out? There's no way you're gonna see more than 140hp out of a stock 1st gen B16. You'd be lucky to hit 140.

i didn't know we were talking 1st gen but depending on who does the swap and how good of a job still is going to effect power, for instance, improper wireing would rob you of power

Ya, but not like 10 or so.. If your car isn't wired properly its going to run fucked up (speaking from experience.. Mine was missing at least 50hp when I got it back the first time).

Its either going to be right or not right, its not going to have a bit of bad wiring and be making like 120hp.. Either it will be fucked and be making like 90hp, or it will be proper and be making full probably 135hp.

Even speaking of 2nd gen B16s, show me a dyno of a stock one hitting 150hp. There's no bloody way. I bet B18Cs don't hit 150hp totally stock.

its very doubful of 1st gen b16's putting down more than 130 to the wheels, the new k20's with 160hp only put 130 to the wheels, gsr's put around 146-148 to the wheels

Here's the only dyno I can find right now..
Stock muffler, 2.25" piping, and a cheap-o air filter.

http://members.aol.com:/labworks2001/dyno_1.gif

I have had both engines in my 4dr. ZC was a cheap, easy swap and it gave decent power and quarter mile times. However, I was kind of limited at the time for additional power since I didn;t want to turbo. Cams were difficult to find but now more and more companies are making regrinds. The b16a was a little more complicated but resulted in better power and quarter mile times. Plus it is a blast to drive on the street but on the highway it revs kinda high due to the short gearing of the J1 trans. Even with the absence of low end torque it still gets off the line damn well due to the short gears. Plus the b16a has a ton of parts available. It is all preference though. Do you want a cheap and easy swap with decent power or do you want a more complicated swap but a swap that has enormous potential. It is all up to you.:)

Here's the only dyno I can find right now..
Stock muffler, 2.25" piping, and a cheap-o air filter.

http://members.aol.com:/labworks2001/dyno_1.gif

Me = own3d

The chart i was looking at was a supercharged CRX, not a b16, sorry about that, but i still swear i have seen a near 150HP stock b16

I have had both engines in my 4dr. ZC was a cheap, easy swap and it gave decent power and quarter mile times. However, I was kind of limited at the time for additional power since I didn;t want to turbo. Cams were difficult to find but now more and more companies are making regrinds. The b16a was a little more complicated but resulted in better power and quarter mile times. Plus it is a blast to drive on the street but on the highway it revs kinda high due to the short gearing of the J1 trans. Even with the absence of low end torque it still gets off the line damn well due to the short gears. Plus the b16a has a ton of parts available. It is all preference though. Do you want a cheap and easy swap with decent power or do you want a more complicated swap but a swap that has enormous potential. It is all up to you.:)
:iagree:
damn you put it all in a clean well packed nutshell, well said.


Explain yourself. How is JDM HP different if its in your USDM car!?
And how is the USDM parts selection different than the JDM engines? Any engine other than the ZC has a USDM counterpart you can use parts for.
jdm hp readings are not valid if your putting it on a street car cause jdm emission standards are different and you will loose some hp to bring your b16 to usdm emission standards. unless you get your emissions tested by rednecks or your only using the engine for racing.

jdm hp readings are not valid if your putting it on a street car cause jdm emission standards are different and you will loose some hp to bring your b16 to usdm emission standards. unless you get your emissions tested by rednecks or your only using the engine for racing.

I pass emissions and I used all the stock emissions equipment that came on my 91 dx. But I get your point especially in cali since they are pretty strict about emissions. I don't think changing emissions equipment will affect the horsepower ratings that much. Maybe 2-5 crank hp or something like that. Most of the stock b16a dynos I have seen net about 140+ whp.

Here's the only dyno I can find right now..
Stock muffler, 2.25" piping, and a cheap-o air filter.

http://members.aol.com:/labworks2001/dyno_1.gif

So um, when were you in Chico CA? I thought you lived in canada. I just ask because it says Chico CA on the top of the dyno and thats realy close to were I live, cant have a bunch of crazy canuts runnin around in cali... Someone might get hurt.

So um, when were you in Chico CA? I thought you lived in canada. I just ask because it says Chico CA on the top of the dyno and thats realy close to were I live, cant have a bunch of crazy canuts runnin around in cali... Someone might get hurt.

that wasnt his car, he was proving a point with a dyno sheet from someone...

Not mine, I wish it was.

Oh, ok... I thought he was trying to say it was his. Wasnt pointing any fingers or anything just asking out of curiosity.

the difference in bhp and whp is generally around a 15% difference, just something i picked up from experience. i have a 99-00 jdm b16a engine and it passed smog fine how it was so maybe there are different factors in different models but thats just what i have to say. overall the jdm b16a is an awesome engine. i read a book about tuning recently and they enforced the idea of building through subtraction over addition. that says that you should wait the extra 3 or 4 months to put in a little more money to your swap and get something you really want and will continue to be happy with opposed to spending a little less to get something you may get tired of relatively quickly leading to you spending more to either swap again or try to squeeze out more power. think about it. my vote is for a newer b16a. good luck.