Engine Spec's

hi guys could you please point me in the right direction, in finding out the engine spec's that JAP Primera's came with ...

Welcome to the forum Ultrasonic2. :) :)

First off, just an ettiquette thing, please refrain from using the term JAP. Apparently some take offence to it. Rather use Japanese or JDM (Japanese Domestic Market).

Now, what in particular are you wanting to find out? What model, year etc?

If your looking for power output, then the early Primera's (P10) fitted with the SR20DE (2.0 Te, 2.0 Ts, 2.0 Tm, 2.0 T4 and 2.0e GT) were 150PS @ 6400rpm (110kW or 147.5 hp) and 19kg-m @ 4800rpm (137.4 ft-lb or 186.3Nm) Bore is 86mm. Stroke is 86mm. Compression ratio is 10.0:1.

The 1.8 Ci and 1.8 Cu were fitted with the SR18Di engine with an output of 110PS @ 6000rpm (80kW or 108hp) and 15.3kg-m @ 4000rpm (110ft-lb or 150Nm). Bore is 82.5mm. Stroke is 86mm. Compression ratio is 9.5:1.

What else would you like to know? Sorry I don't have the same info for JDM P11 models.

Are you in NZ Ultrasonic? You don't happen to work at P&H do you? If so, then I bought those Primera rims and tires off you a while ago.

Ok thanks very much for your help ....

I live in auckland and dont work for P&H ( what ever that is ) i work for Pricewaterhousecoopers ( yeah thats a long one ay. lol )

Im looking into buying a Primera cause as you know they are SUPER cheap in nz .... and they dont seem to brake down much. However there not on my fast list but thats ok cause i need to drive slower anyway.lol

Ok, my mistake. I just happen to know someone here in Hamilton who gets around in a Te Primera and has a s/c Trueno (that's like a Levin isn't it?) which he uses on the track at Centenial Raceway in Taupo. I figured ... what are the odds.

Are you considering replacing the Levin or getting a Primera as well? And hey, they're not that slow! Although I have heard the Levins are quick.

Anything else I can help you with, just holler:)

Hi. I have a 1992 nissan primera te and i can drag off my mates fxgt(same as levin? 20 valve motor). his car does have 170,000km though

So are you saying the JDM G20 and the TE, T4....... has the same power output of 150hp ?

Is this an indercation that they are both running 10:1 compression or is it a bit more timing and higher octane (ron) fuel.

Also could you could you tell me the weights of the P10 if you know it..... and if you have the gear raio's that would nice.

As fot the 20v levins i have been TOYSPEED member since the beginning and there is a rule fot having a fast 20v .and it's dont tuch it ......the fastest ones doen the 1/4 mile were the stock ones with the least ks on them .......they run 16's flat .......moded ones are always slower .........and supercharged ones are way faster.

Originally posted by Ultrasonic2
So are you saying the JDM G20 and the TE, T4....... has the same power output of 150hp ?

Is this an indercation that they are both running 10:1 compression or is it a bit more timing and higher octane (ron) fuel.

Also could you could you tell me the weights of the P10 if you know it..... and if you have the gear raio's that would nice.

I got the JDM hp figures from a translated owners manual from www.jpnz.co.nz . The G20 is the American version of the Primera under the Infiniti Brand and it comes with a little less hp and possibly compression. The JDM P10 2.0 engines should run Premium unleaded (96 RON).

The early Primeras came with a high port head (plenum underneath the intake runners) while the newer models have the low port head (plenum above the intake runners). The earlier high port engines generally have higher power output. The '91 also has a slightly more aggressive intake cam.

P10 weights SR20DE (kg):
Te - 1180 (1210)
Ts - 1160 (1190)
Tm - 1160 (1190)
T4 - 1320 (1340)
eGT - (1280) I think the bracketed weights are for auto, not sure though.

Gear ratios SR20DE (manual)
2WD - 3.063, 1.826, 1.207, 0.926, 0.756, rev - 3.153, final drive - 4.176
4WD - 3.063, 1.826, 1.286, 0.975, 0.756, rev - 3.153, final drive - 4.375

Gear ratios SR20DE(auto)
2WD - 2.861, 1.562, 1.000, 0.697, rev - 2.310, final drive - 4.072
4WD - 2.861, 1.562, 1.000, 0.697, rev - 2.310, final drive - 4.072

You can see that the manual 4WD version has shorter gearing in 3rd, 4th and in the diffs (final drives). This is probably to offset the extra 140-160kg it has over the Te.

sorry more questions ........

so whats the diference between the

TE
TS
TM
G20 ...........?

stuff like abs and body kits and stuff

With your numbers i get about 15.7second 1/4 mile times ...stock for a Te ........do you know waht they really do ?

o and does the advancing the timing to 19 degrees trick work on the JDM cars ?

This is where my info starts to run out but I'm sure some of the other NZ members could help out with this. Since they are imports, it's harder to get information in English about them. Basically the Te and T4 are the performance versions with ABS, sportier suspension and a Recaro style interior. They get 14" factory alloys and the full factory body kit.

The Ts is more like a luxury version than the Te/T4 and the Tm is kinda the base model. Just talking about all the 2.0 litre cars here.

The G20 is the North American Primera sold under the Infiniti marque. They fit them out somewhat more upmarket than the JDM Primera.

I think a 15.7 1/4 is a little optimistic for a stock one but I'm only basing that on what the U.S. guys get (around 16.5) with their lower spec engines. I think their cars are a little heavier as well. Here's some figures on Jason's site (G-Forces) http://www.g20.net/g20-p10specs.html for the P10 so I guess you might expect low 16s from a JDM Te 5 speed. The autos do suck some of the performance from these cars.

If you want anything quicker, there is some aftermarket stuff for them although it can be expensive if you get the American stuff due to the exchange rate. The Japanese aftermarket gear is hellishly expensive so it makes good sense to start with a good Te or T4 manual. The T4, naturally will not have the zip of the FWD model. There is some aftermarket gear around like intakes, exhausts and cams but the Te and T4 already have a decent tubular header installed from the factory. The SR20de engine takes very well to turbocharging and also an SR20DET (turbo) is quite a popular swap. There are also No2 kits for them. www.prestigeautomotive.co.nz is one place to start looking for performance stuff in Auckland.

Also make sure you check out the new club www.nzprimeracarclub.cjb.net . There's a few of us there and some pics of modded Primeras. Enjoy.

I haven't tried the timing advance thing myself but a couple of the NZ people here have. It seems to work for the Americans and with the 98 Ron stuff you can get now from Mobil and BP it should work alright.

If you haven't driven any yet then get out and do it. Where these cars really shine is in the handling and braking.

yeah i thought 15's were going to be a bit optomistic.......

i dont really want a fast or rice car thats why im buying a Primera and cause they are so cheap..

i currently have a lot of problems with the police and my car .........and it's pissing me and my girl friend off ......so i just want to sell it and buy a nice familly car .....lol ..... it would look like the only realistic thing to do to it would be ad an exhaust and extractors.... from a mods point of view ......there isn't any point spending big money on it trying to get it to go fast .cause then why buy a Primera in the first place


do you know what Primeras get on dyno's in NZ not the us or anything else ?

by the way thanks for your help

Originally posted by Ultrasonic2
i work for Pricewaterhousecoopers ( yeah thats a long one ay. lol )

ACK!!:apuke:

Another beancounter!!! Ahhhhhh!!!!! :apuke::apuke:

:right:

One beancounter to another. :D

Actually im not a bean counter........ i do their computers......so im a nerd , if you like :D

one with lost of time to talk on the net i might add

Good cams and/or CAI would probably get you into the 15s. As I said earlier, the Te and T4 factory headers are pretty good, and there is not much to be gained from a big bore system. UR pullies and lightened flywheels will also help acceleration.

Why make a Primera faster? - because they have an excellent chassis. With a bit more power, a Primera will handle and stop better than most cars ... and go as well. It's less likely to get stolen and the cops won't look twice. Basically, the perfect sleeper.

Grunter ran a 15.97 in his P11 with ECU, Extractors, Big bore and LSD (the diff not the drug) see here. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11549&highlight=drags

Sorry I don't know of anyone in NZ who has dynoed their P10. I'd do mine but I'd have to find a local 4WD dyno first.

......so i just want to sell it and buy a nice familly car .......
Family what? :confused:

Its a fire breathing traction grabbing beast.......get it straight;)

u huh .i think you should wake up now :biggrin2:

o good point about the cams "T4 Primera"...........what duration and lift do you guys run ? ...... with the rocker system , which shouldn't be there in my opinion....

What the hell is a CAI ? is that a big word for a pod air filter ? which is gonna cost $300 and take 3hp OFF the torque curve thought out the rev range ....hhehe ?

Does changing the ECU do much ? does the car run rich stock ? ........does it lean out due to mods or richen up ? ...i have a APEXi SAFC i can put in it anyway ...... from the levin ....which i might ad was a waste of time .....but you live and learn .lol.......

I'm just running the stock cams - '91. I don't have the specs for it unfortunately but I suspect it is the cam that JustinP10 fitted recently. Many in the US have changed to the '91 cams which gives some improvement over their's. Have a look through some recent cams threads here - I recall someone posted the tests done by Sport Compact Car magazine on the '91 cam.

JWT www.jimwolftechnology.com (US) makes a series of cams for the SR20DE. It seems much of the performance cam info is proprietary so good luck finding lift and duration figures - although there are a couple of recent threads in this forum that mention some figures.

I think Jun and maybe Toda make cams also. Piper cams in the UK. and probably some others I've either forgotten, or didn't know of in the first place.

Kelford Camtech (NZ) apparently do cams for the SR20DE.

CAI = cold air intake which a replaces the stock airbox with pipework and sucks air from the inner guard area via a Cone filter on the end. Popular opinion is that it makes most of it's power from resonance rather than cold air, and it straightens the airflow through the MAF (mass airflow sensor). More laminar airflow rather than turbulent. Made by Place Racing and Hotshot (US). www.prestigeautomotive.co.nz has a couple of intake mods available as well.

Factory ECU has a self learning function that will adjust to most bolt-ons. I don't think there is any reason to change it unless you go turbo etc.

Unless the AFC modifies the O2 sensor signal going to the ECU as well as the Air/fuel signals, the ECU may just tune out the AFC offset.

JWT is the only outfit (besides Nissan), as far as I know, who can properly modify the factory ECU. Most others are either add-ons (sometimes called dial-a-booms) or complete ECU replacements.

With regards to engine mods for the SR20DE, www.se-r.net is the best place to start doing research. There is a wealth of quality information there compiled by very experienced and qualified people. Many of the mods available have been dyno tested and often the dyno sheets are posted on this site.

If you want to source performance in NZ then www.prestigeautomotive.co.nz is the place to start looking. If you can catch him, have a chat with Peter Van Brugel at Prestige. He races Primeras and other Nissans proffessionally.

Want to do more research? got to www.nzprimeracarclub.cjb.net and the links page should start you on a journey of discovery.

Be sure to use the search function on this (AF) forum (if you haven't yet). Many of your questions have been answered much better in past posts.:)

ok well .......... i was thinking more along the lines of which duration and lift the guys that have moded their cars were running........ if it was a 4AGE id be sticking in some 272 degree ones ..but it's not a 4AGE..... so i will need to see whats best for me and my engine .....

You are half right about the S-AFC being useless because of the o2 sensor ...... most people would tell you to just unplug the o2 sensor then your fine .........also o2 sensors have a very short life like only 60 thousand ks or so, so most of them on our roads dont work anyway ....... i know the one on my levin didn't work...........

Also dont forget that when in open loop or closed ( i can never remember which way round it is ) ...but full throttle anyway..... the car stops reading the o2 sensor so the S-AFC WILL work for the HI throttle mode.

i didn't need the S-AFC on the levin because .....there was a good reason why the car was running rich......


As for the CAI i found some pics on it . and yes more volume before the throttle body will increase top end power .well to a point .