Nitrous ... why so dangerous

Why is nitrous just so damn dangerous....!!!!! I hear of alot of people breaking shit and cracking shit...? Why just nitrous and not tc or sc?

Why is nitrous just so damn dangerous....!!!!! I hear of alot of people breaking shit and cracking shit...? Why just nitrous and not tc or sc?

I run N2o on my car and I know people that have ran it for 5 year or more on same motor. N2o fucks up shit when people start getting dumb with it wanting more power or hitting that rev limit

Yeah man, nitrous isn't really that dangerous as long as you're using it correctly. You should know that all it's doing is increasing the amount of Oxygen in your combustion chamber allowing you to safely increase the amount of fuel to give more power. What's really dangerous with nitrous is that the cooling effect is so dramatic on the seals and piston rings that they may crack. Now on stock cars I don't know how accurate that is, but if you have ceramic seals, like rotary engines can have since they are lighter and more durable, they WILL shatter once nitrous is used. If you hit the revlimiter while shooting nitrous, you could slam you piston into your valve and that's not cool. :icon16:

Forced induction isn't the safest power-adder either, but like everything else in this world too much of a good thing can create chaos. I blew two stock engines with nitrous and will never use it again, but both times were from user error. I normally pay high attention to detail, so if I can fuck it up, anybody can. I would rather not take the risk so unless you're racing for large amounts of money, it's not worth it (especially just on the street to cruise around).

Yeah man, nitrous isn't really that dangerous as long as you're using it correctly. You should know that all it's doing is increasing the amount of Oxygen in your combustion chamber allowing you to safely increase the amount of fuel to give more power. What's really dangerous with nitrous is that the cooling effect is so dramatic on the seals and piston rings that they may crack. Now on stock cars I don't know how accurate that is, but if you have ceramic seals, like rotary engines can have since they are lighter and more durable, they WILL shatter once nitrous is used. If you hit the revlimiter while shooting nitrous, you could slam you piston into your valve and that's not cool. :icon16:

Ok this is one of the dumbest posts I have ever read.
The cooling effect cracking piston rings? WTF and the revlimiter causing piston to valve contact? Come on buddy if you don't kow the correct reply then don't reply. You cpould give some bogus crap of an answer to some one who does not know any better and then they will have a wrong and f**ked up conception of he topic and sound really stupid in front of other people who know what is going on.

Nitrous is only dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.

Ok this is one of the dumbest posts I have ever read.
The cooling effect cracking piston rings? WTF and the revlimiter causing piston to valve contact? Come on buddy if you don't kow the correct reply then don't reply. You cpould give some bogus crap of an answer to some one who does not know any better and then they will have a wrong and f**ked up conception of he topic and sound really stupid in front of other people who know what is going on.

Nitrous is only dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.

Like i said, i'm not sure with inline or V engines, but rotary engines with ceramic seals, nitrous will shatter the seals. To add to this, if your timing belt/chain is off and you're using some type of force induction, piston to valve contact is possible.

But since your so smart, i have question for you, why is nitrous so popular and not compressed air? Just answer it! :sly:

wow such usefull responses!!! i know i can really base a project with educated answers like those!!! i get someone that sounds like they know why and then someone else says they are wrong, and he doesn't have an answer....? :screwy:

wow such usefull responses!!! i know i can really base a project with educated answers like those!!! i get someone that sounds like they know why and then someone else says they are wrong, and he doesn't have an answer....? :screwy:

Trust me (not to be riding anybodys Nutts) but if you have a N2O question go to whtteg He help me more the NOS could. If you want answer go to him I do and my n2o setup is great and my car Faster then it has ever been and maybe will be. And with Np

it's all good man....ur right, i would go to people that have years of experience with that too. I was thinkin of nitrous, so i guess i'll know who to seek advice from too.

alright alright i wasnt making jabbs just frustrated but i see how it is and ill ask him some time out of af i guess... uhh thx you all
:biggrin:

.

But since your so smart, i have question for you, why is nitrous so popular and not compressed air? Just answer it! :sly:

B/c the nitrous is 1 molecule of oxygen chemically bonded together with 2 molecules of nitrogen. When the mixture enters the combustion chamber the nitrogen releases the oxygen and the cylinder pressure goes up and there is extra oxygen to burn the extra fuel. Also the air outside is made up of only 21% oxygen where as the nitrous has 33.333% oxygen, so the nitrous is has more oxygen than compressed air. Also compressed air is not as dense as nitrous, the nitrous is cold and is very dense and you can fit more of it into the combustion chambers then the heat causes it to expand, which increases the cylinder pressures, which also helps create more hp. Just so ya know:smokin:

if your timing belt/chain is off and you're using some type of force induction, piston to valve contact is possible.:

You wouldn't need forced induction to mess up your valves if the timing belt/chain were to break while driving.

Ok this is one of the dumbest posts I have ever read.
The cooling effect cracking piston rings? WTF and the revlimiter causing piston to valve contact? Come on buddy if you don't kow the correct reply then don't reply. You cpould give some bogus crap of an answer to some one who does not know any better and then they will have a wrong and f**ked up conception of he topic and sound really stupid in front of other people who know what is going on.

Nitrous is only dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.

So then it's not dangerous to redline w/ nitrous? cuz ive heard its dangerous too, expecially with a engine that redlines high like a type-R? and also is it more harsh on your engine to use nitrous in 1st gear than the rest?

The original question, its kind of loaded. I know some people (and im sure some guys on here) have run N20 for a long time without much trouble. Basically the people you hear about who are "cracking stuff" are the poeple who think n20 is just free horsepower and they don't need to do anything to their car to get it to work. Your effectively doing the same thing that a turbo is doing, your just putting more oxygen into the cylinders, and if there is too much air and not enough fuel, then your run lean and blow stuff up. You must supplement a large boost of n20 with an equivilant fuel system upgrade and timing corrections, and if you get big enough (or crazy enough), you need pistons and rods to handle all the new power.
Now im sure there are plenty of stories of people who say you don't need to upgrade anything using n20, but I don't believe them and they are the ones who usually post about cracking stuff. But for small shots of n20 the stock system is usually adequate (as far as I have seen). I know if you want to be safe you should upgrade your fuel system with any signifigant increase in horsepower. And every time you upgrade something, you have to ask yourself if your ready to accept the risk of something going wrong. So I say its better to be safe than sorry, much cheaper to upgrade before something breaks, then to wait for it to break and rebuild your engine later.

"You wouldn't need forced induction to mess up your valves if the timing belt/chain were to break while driving."
Yea that guy is crazy, if your timing belt breaks or youve got it too far advanced, you dont need anything to help you screw up your engine, you just did it yourself. Although he might be referring to the fact that when you boost, you have to retard your timing a little or risk predetonation.
But piston to valve contact? It doesnt take anything special to do that, its either going to happen or its not. And if you didn't test this before your large cam install or new pistons then... youve got other problems.

And whtteg hit it on the head with the n20 description, probably another reason for using n20 over compressed air, is that you can get n20 to liquify and put alot in the same bottle size, I doubt thats possible with just regular outside air, or at least safely and economically.

So to sum it up quicksilver, go ahead and use nitrous if you want, its not so much dangerous if you respect it like any other upgrade and make sure you don't get too greedy without proper upgrades, thats when you get into trouble.

my safe :2cents:
HTH
Buzz1167
Jon N

Nitrous is the worst power adder for regular street use anyways. You gotta build up your engine so much to run a safe shot, but you're still stuck with having to fill the bottle and worry about the pressure all the time. After it's empty you're stuck knowing you're slower than you could be, while if you had a monster n/a or boosted car you could whoop ass over and over all day long.

Just think about it... you get your first bottle and let loose all over the freeway. Then the next morning you get up all excited, go speed around the freeway some more, but it gets weaker and weaker until you hardly feel the shot anymore. Then on your way back home some riced out Si with some boltons wants to race you, then wins because you're on E. I've been there and it sucks, because "If only I had a full bottle" I could have beat him on my sohc. I wish I would have put all that money into a turbo or good engine swap back in the day. Instead I kept buying part after part thinking "this is it, this part will make me happy".

Point is, save for a more permenant and reliable source of power.

My safer :2cents:

i've heard that with using Nitrous Oxide you can damage your motor and possibly blow your block.

So then it's not dangerous to redline w/ nitrous? cuz ive heard its dangerous too, expecially with a engine that redlines high like a type-R? and also is it more harsh on your engine to use nitrous in 1st gear than the rest?

The reason it is dangerous to redline while using nitrousa is b/c of the rev limiter. The rev limiter cuts the fuel and then you are left with a lean condition, which can and probably will result in a blown motor. And as far as using it in first gear, it is safe but you really have to know what you are doing b/c wheel spin is massive and you can hit the rev limiter before you know it. That is why I have a ecu that is chipped to have no redline ( well 8400, but not going to see that lol). Now ignition timming is something that has to be addressed. Retarding the timming is a simple way of saving the motor from detonation or preignition. For 50 hp and less stock timming or 1 degree retard 50-75 1-2 degress retard and over that you should know what to do or you don't need to be using a shot that big !:nono:

i have a del sol ...with a b18c in it..(jdm GSR)...with AEM intake, MSD wires, Skunk2 intake mani, Type R throttle, DC 4-2-1 header, AEM fuel rail...

Would it be safe for me to run a 55 shot....and what would be better for hondas....wet or dry..ive heard bad things about wet...then people say im dumb and say wet is better...so i dunno what to think...

The reason it is dangerous to redline while using nitrousa is b/c of the rev limiter. The rev limiter cuts the fuel and then you are left with a lean condition, which can and probably will result in a blown motor. And as far as using it in first gear, it is safe but you really have to know what you are doing b/c wheel spin is massive and you can hit the rev limiter before you know it. That is why I have a ecu that is chipped to have no redline ( well 8400, but not going to see that lol). Now ignition timming is something that has to be addressed. Retarding the timming is a simple way of saving the motor from detonation or preignition. For 50 hp and less stock timming or 1 degree retard 50-75 1-2 degress retard and over that you should know what to do or you don't need to be using a shot that big !:nono:
my ecu is chipped to go to 8400 too. So as long as i shift at 8200 i'll be fine?

i have a del sol ...with a b18c in it..(jdm GSR)...with AEM intake, MSD wires, Skunk2 intake mani, Type R throttle, DC 4-2-1 header, AEM fuel rail...

Would it be safe for me to run a 55 shot....and what would be better for hondas....wet or dry..ive heard bad things about wet...then people say im dumb and say wet is better...so i dunno what to think...

I run a 55 shot on my stock d16y7 with CAI and thats it so I am going to tell you yes it is safe plus you got more diplacment then me 55 shot will be easy to run on your car. and you will love then way it feels. People that have been beating me by 4 -6 cars cant beat me now so I love the stuff

Also mine is Wet I like Wet alot better.I think it is safer because I have not fucked up anything yet and I know 2 people that have had zex dry kit and have blown there shit. I have had no problems

my ecu is chipped to go to 8400 too. So as long as i shift at 8200 i'll be fine?

As long as you don't bounce off the rev limiter, and have the system properly tuned and installed you shouldn't damage anything. My best advice is buy a window switch, get it on the dyno, figure out a good shift point (probably going to be a bit below 8000) and then set the window switch to shut off the nitrous a few hundred RPM's past your shift point, and a few hundred before redline. Run a WOT switch in conjunction with the window switch, and the lowest RPM's that I would have it spray at would be 3000, anything less than that and you don't have that much port velocity which can lead to puddling and a big backfire.

i heard n2o would freeze your fuel lines if not set up correctly?

:dunno:

i heard n2o would freeze your fuel lines if not set up correctly?

:dunno:


LOL Thats Funny. After thinking about it if you have a I/Q of -5 I sure you could do that

Also my is Wet I like Wet alot better. And I will it is safer because I have not fucked up anything yet and I know 2 people that have had zex dry kit and have blown there shit. I have had no problems
ive heard zex is the safest nitrous there is cuz of the smart system.

does Neuspeed make Nitrous Oxide bottles?

ive heard zex is the safest nitrous there is cuz of the smart system.

True just bc they have that damn think that cuts it on at a rpm and cuts off at a rpm. dry makes your stock fuel pump do the work.

This may be a dumb question, but sorry. uh, if internals are built up and whatnot, can you use turbo as well as nitrous?

Originally Posted by got v-tec?
ive heard zex is the safest nitrous there is cuz of the smart system.

Originally Posted by Redrunner
True just bc they have that damn think that cuts it on at a rpm and cuts off at a rpm. dry makes your stock fuel pump do the work.
WTF are you talking about??? That's what a window switch does, which doesn't come with a zex kit.

The wet kit is safer because it mixes nitrous with extra fuel, and shoots that mixture into the chamber with the regular amount of fuel already provided by the injectors.

A dry kit only sprays nitrous into the chamber, but increases the amount of fuel the stock system injects when you spray by lowering the ecu's view of the fuel psi.

The zex "smart system" tells the car's ecu how much fuel to inject depending on the psi of nitrous spraying into the engine, so the engine will run fully cooperatively with the amount of nitrous entering the engine even if you only have 500psi in the bottle. On a NOS or any other dry system, it just bumps the fuel and sprays whatever psi the bottle has, making a somewhat ineffecient mixture. The Venom and NX wet kits are by far the best systems to install because they have their own little brainboxes and displays which monitor the fuel/nitrous ratio at all times, but are relatively expensive ($1000+ new, compared to $500 for a zex kit). Dry kits are only recomended to spray up to 75hp shots, while with wet kits you can run 150-175hp because of the higher efficiency in nitrous/fuel mixture. You MUST upgrade damn near everything for shots in excess of 75hp though. Hope this helps.

You also have to be sure the bottle is at the right temp. My brothers NOS bottle was below 700PSI (or whatever the ideal PSI is) and instead of it bieng 50 shot, which is what it was jetted for, it was more like 35-40 shot...because of the low bottle pressure.
If my bro payed closer attention to his spark plugs, he would've messed up his rings and valves :(. Lesson learned I guess.
For nitrous, I think you alos need plugs that are one step colder, and I heard NGK is the best, not sure tough. My bro used bosch the first time and metled one of the plugs. It felt like a carbuerated car with a flooded carb!

NGK BKR7E's are the best plugs to use on a Civic, which are 2 steps colder. These plugs are perfectly fine for everyday driving w/out nitrous also. The temp directly affects the psi, which the ZEX brainbox takes into account and raises/lowers fuel accordingly like I said above. If it's at 500psi, the box will tell the engine to only add a little bit more fuel. If at 1200psi it will tell the engine to add a lot of fuel. There is a hose going from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator, and with the ZEX setup the hose comes off the fpr straight to the box, then is outletted to the manifold. The box is able to manipulate the fuel psi seen by the ecu this way. When you spray it will say "hey ecu, we need more gas in here", and all the ecu sees is "you're right, here you go buddy", making an efficient mix so it doesn't lean out and burn up your shit inside. More fuel = cooler burn, more air = hotter burn.