Progress: Lancia Stratos

My turn to have a go at Hasegawa's Lancia Stratos. Been mucking about with this for a while, still not realy sure where I'm going with it - how detailed or what livery :)

So far I've chopped the rear engine cover off...

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1695.JPG

..in order to show off the engine that will be stuffed in there.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1705.JPG

The engine is a resin copy of the Fujimi kit, nicely plagerised by Reji. Only came with one fuel tank so I'm in the process of making another from putty, which explains why one of them is yellow.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1700.JPG

Since the rear is going to be opened up there will be plenty of scope for detailing. For example here is trial run at improving the suspension by replacing the plastic kit spring (on the left) with one made from coiled wire and an aluminium rod shock.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1710.JPG

How this will turn out is anyones guess :icon16:

looks interesting.

It's about time you started sharing this one with us Phil, you've certainly dropped enough hints about it to me ;)

Nice to see what's going on, looks like you've made an excellent start :smokin:

Another one of your builds well worth following!

Certainly looks like you've made a good start. Hope all goes well.

I thought, jsut another nice progress report, but not this time. It'll be amazing, since the first picture I saw, is a chopped engine cover, followed by a complete engine that'll go in there and a modified spring system. Amazing work Phil!

Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhh : Another Rally master piece coming there !!!
As other i will follow it closely.

I'm sure this will be a progress thread I'll love to follow!

I'm working on Markku Alén's 1978 Sanremo Stratos (of all the choices it really had to be Markku's :iceslolan ) and I've also chopped the engine hatch off, but I'm using the engine parts straight from Fujimi Stratos as I had one (I bought it couple of years ago and I was going to convert it to Markku's rally Stratos, but fortunately Hasegawa brought their kit before I got started).

I have no idea when I'm going to finish it, but I guess my progress may be quite slow because of all non model related things going on right now. Currently I'm finishing the fit between body and the engine cover. I'd need to see some pictures of the inside of the rally Stratos' engine cover, as I believe it was different from the civilian version when the car used the big round glassfibre air filter box. There are two air tubes coming from the side scoops to the airfilter box, but I'm not quite sure how the rest should be... I have seen only one small pic of this type of cover and I couldn't quite figure out how the horizontal panel below the slatted rear window cover should be (or should it just be removed?).

Good luck with your project!

-Mikko

Damn, I almost lost all the interest on the construction of mine after seeing the tremendous entrance of your Stratos project Phil. :)
It will be a pleasure to see you apply your great skills on this model and I hope you post frequent updates of your work. What is the base version? The 1979 Chardonnet’s one?

Its gonna be a stunner Phil - A Stratos, superdetaing and you building it - magic!!!

I've been tossing up which livery to go with, was thinking about Markku Alén's Pirelli sponsored car. But Mikko seems to have taken first dibbs on that now! Nuno is building the 75 Sanremo winner and Ray has built the 77 Monte winner. With those options eliminated I think I'll go with my original intention and use the Studio 27 decals for the 1981 Tour de Corse winner, even though they are undersize in a few key areas. Yes, Nuno the base kit is the 1979 Chardonet car.

I too have one of the Fujimi Enthusiast Stratos kits Mikko. Was going to save it for if I ever get around to doing a second Stratos. Interesting comments regarding the interior of the engine cover, I've never really seen a good pic of in there. I don't even know what heads, exhaust or airbox arrangement the Corsica 81 car ran. If anybody has any pictures I'd be very grateful if they could post them. If not I'll just wing it.

Knowing the decals are wrong and the car will never be fully accurate I feel strangely liberated!

Knowing the decals are wrong and the car will never be fully acurate I feel strangely liberated!

Every now and then, it's good to have that feeling :wink:

Well, since the last update this Lancia Stratos project has escalated out of control. In a fit of exuberance I removed the doors and front! Time will tell if this was a wise move or not :screwy:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1736.JPG

Now I’ve got a whole lot of stuff to ponder and scratch build. A project that was going to take six months to finish is now likely to take twice as long! Or disappear to the back of the cupboard like my similarly ambitious Evo VI. Lots of problems to be sorted. First up I’ve got to find a way to move the cockpit and firewall forward several mm so the front section fits properly. These pictures show how it fits now.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1746.JPG

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1747.JPG

A bit of trimming of the firewall so it sits more vertically and sneaking it forward into the cockpit a mm or two should have the desired result. Of course that may have consequences in other areas… :sly:

damn phil u are getting ambitious again. Hope to see this one finished

damn phil u are getting ambitious again. Hope to see this one finished

You and me both Tas!

I forgot to mention Seb (_835_) has volunteered to help me out with making the correct size L'Automobile decal for the front. He is going to design a new one and try printing it on an ALPS, which can print white. Thanks Seb!

I was wondering if somebody who has built a Hasegawa Stratos could be kind enough to take and post some photos of the underside of the completed model. I'd like to see where the chassis and suspension line up with the body, so I get everything in the right position.

Thanks for any assistance.

Here are more details of exactly what I’ve got myself into :cool: The front end will require a scratch built bulkhead and plenty of detailing. There is currently nothing to hang the doors off either, that will all have to be built up from plastic card. Anybody have any pictures of this area?

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1757.JPG

The rear firewall will need to be filled in so there is no daylight showing through like now. I’ve already glued the parts cut from the inner doors and filled the centre section with putty.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1761.JPG

A few other problems I’ve encountered so far (many more to come I’m sure). First the cockpit surround is currently very delicate after cutting the doors out. Already I’ve had one side start to crack away. I attempted to stop the rot by digging out a channel and reinforcing the plastic with a piece of embedded metal rod. Hope it works :sunglasse

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1763.JPG

I foolishly though the doors would be simple to do, just cut the inside bit out and glue it to the removed door :shakehead However as can be seen on the left door below, that would leave no place for the window to wind down. After a bit of pondering I arrived at the solution on the right. Trimming the top so the inner door overlaps and cutting and twisting the bottom so it still aligns with the outer part of the door. The gap will be filled with plastic card and putty at a later date. Windows will be cut from clear plastic sheet. Hinges? :dunno:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1768.JPG

I have some pics I took last weekend at the National Classic car show in Birmingham if you want Rallyraider, not sure if they're clear enough for you but there's some interior shots and you can make out some bonnet clips and stuff.

I have some pics I took last weekend at the National Classic car show in Birmingham if you want Rallyraider, not sure if they're clear enough for you but there's some interior shots and you can make out some bonnet clips and stuff.

I'd definitely be interested in seeing those pics Bangai-o. Please email or PM them to me or even post them in this thread if you like. Thanks in advance, much appreciated. I believe one can never have too many references.

Uh oh :eek: I see somebody here enjoys a challenge :lol:

You might want to get this book (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-perl/hljpage.cgi?NKP00061) for reference even though it concentrates on civilian cars (about 50% of the book is about Stratos, rest is about 037). The text is in Japanese, but there is quite a lot detail pics of the cars.

-Mikko

I was wondering if somebody who has built a Hasegawa Stratos could be kind enough to take and post some photos of the underside of the completed model. I'd like to see where the chassis and suspension line up with the body, so I get everything in the right position.

Thanks for any assistance.

I'll try to get some decent photos for you :)

Looks like you're headed in the right direction with this one Phil.
Do you have the book Rally Cars? There is a photo in the book of a Stratos stripped down to the main shell.

Ray

RallyRaider, looks like you've got a lot of work on your hands. Hope it comes out in the end as best as it can be. BTW, where do you get clear plastic sheet?

"Just" cutting the rear section was not hard enough for you Phil :)
You have not just increase the work you will have on this one but also the overall interest on this progress thread (that was already enormous). Good luck and hope you continue with frequent updates of your excelent work process.

I was wondering if somebody who has built a Hasegawa Stratos could be kind enough to take and post some photos of the underside of the completed model. I'd like to see where the chassis and suspension line up with the body, so I get everything in the right position.

Thanks for any assistance.

Phil, I took the photos but fool that I am forgot the USB cable at my other place(you know the story), I will be able to upload them tomorrow after work though (Tuesday morning for you).

Sorry about that.

Uh oh :eek: I see somebody here enjoys a challenge :lol:

You might want to get this book (http://www.hlj.com/cgi-perl/hljpage.cgi?NKP00061) for reference even though it concentrates on civilian cars (about 50% of the book is about Stratos, rest is about 037). The text is in Japanese, but there is quite a lot detail pics of the cars.

-Mikko

Thanks for the link to the book Mikko. Think I'll have to get it now, both for the Stratos and future 037's as well.

I'll try to get some decent photos for you :)

Looks like you're headed in the right direction with this one Phil.
Do you have the book Rally Cars? There is a photo in the book of a Stratos stripped down to the main shell.

Ray

Yes Ray I have 'Rally Cars' I know the photo you're refering to. However to paraphrase Roy and HG - Too many detail pictures are not nearly enough!

Thanks for taking pictures of your Stratos, no hurry in sending them. Mikko has sent me some killer photos of the real car that show where it should align. But I need to know if the kit fits together in the same way. I suspect it does.

Thanks for wishing me good luck Nuno and everybody, I may just need it :)

BTW, where do you get clear plastic sheet?

I'm going to use Tamiya clear plastic sheet, 0.3mm thick. Tamiya call it Pla-Plate or something. Bought it a long time ago at NMLHS (not my local hobby shop), since my LHS dosen't stock anthing useful like that...

Interesting project!

Hello all, slow progress on the Stratos lately. Been spending most of my modelling time thinking about future projects it seems. Anyway here is an update of work so far.

First couple of pictures show how I'm trying to fit the bodywork to the chassis. When scratch building the front bulkhead structure I'll need to make sure everything fits together the same way every time. To do this I've built a shelf along the doors, which slides into a trough in the chassis sides, both made of plastic card. Will also serve as the start of the door sills/jambs

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846Dcp_1878.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846Dcp_1879.jpg

Next shot shows some of the thinning of parts that needs to be done. Very slow process but will pay off by enhancing the realism - hopefully. These are the helmet holder/trays for the doors. The bottom one is untouched and chunky, the top one thinned down to scale and the ejector pin mark filled in.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846Dcp_1880.jpg

I've been experimenting with a new (to me at least) way of filling gaps - using styrene! What I've done is place some off-cut sprue into a bottle and part filled it with liquid plastic glue. The glue melts the plastic and creates a thick liquid as seen in the bottle on the right in the pic below. The liquid can then be scooped out with a toothpick and applied to fill gaps. On the downside it is very stringy, messy, smelly and can only be used in thin layers or it takes ages to dry, at best it takes at least overnight to fully harden. On the positives it bonds very strongly, sands down and behaves just like plastic (funny that), particularly with regards to flexibility, often a problem with putties.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846Dcp_1881.jpg

Here is the latest with the doors. The bottom section has been completely cut off and extended with plastic card, as has the top, which will be contoured to match the exterior windowsill. When finished they will look a bit weird, being too deep at the rear, but there isn't much option given the way Hasegawa have proportioned the kit. I was going to model the windows tilted down, but the window mechanism is molded in the up position and it would be too big a job to move it. So windows stay up!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846Dcp_1883.jpg

Lastly, even though still a looooooong way off painting the body, I’ve been deciding what colour to use. Think I'll go with Finisher's Formula French Blue, the second 'daub' from the top.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846Dcp_1887.jpg

Back with an another update sonner or later, probably later unfortunately.

Yeah, that is good choise ! I cant wait when this is finised ! :smokin:

:smokin:Hello! I found a link you should try, if you need photos of the Stratos:

http://www.rallycars.com/Cars/Lancia/Stratos2.html

The pics are quite huge, but they might be helpfull... I hope!:iceslolan

Holy shit, Phil, this one is going to be another perfect replica of the original!

I m eagerly awaiting how you're going to tackle the opening-closing doors.

Please keep the awesome work up!

Ciao

Olivier

And I found another one:
http://www.carclassic.com/html/DG67.htm

:wink::1: These are the only links I know that could help you...
You've done a beautifull job so far, hope you'll manage to put it to its end!

Thanks for the links labandabonnot, very useful. And welcome to AF :wave:

I'm wondering how to tackle the doors too Olivier!

(...)
Since the rear is going to be opened up there will be plenty of scope for detailing. For example here is trial run at improving the suspension by replacing the plastic kit spring (on the left) with one made from coiled wire and an aluminium rod shock.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/50846Dcp_1710.JPG

How this will turn out is anyones guess :icon16:

I can't believe I've been missing this thread!! It's seems like one amazing project!...Listen, where can I find that wire (or similar) to wound my coils? And could you explain us (me) how do you do that so perfect? I mean, so nicely spaced..:D ? Thanks in advance.

Hi Petter, I hope it all turns out as I visualise it. Dunno where you can get the wire. I grabbed it from the soldering labs at work, it is 20 AWG or so wire used by the students to practice soldering before they move onto real components. Perhaps an electronic supply store will have range of wire in different diameters.

The spring in the photo isn't perfect, the spacing is a bit out thanks to my trial and error attempts to mount it properly. Hopefully the final ones will be better. To make it I found a piece of sprue that was the right size, then sanded it down so it was completely round and smooth. Next I wound the wire around and around the sprue, placing the coils up tightly against each other. When I had sufficient length I slipped the wire off the sprue and gently pulled the ends so the coils moved appart as evenly as possible.

Next, I cut to the 'spring' slightly longer than needed so it will compress and hold itself in tightly. In fact the last step is not as easy as it sounds, I had to bend the last coil on each end to sit flat against the end stops. I am thinking of adding a thin disk of plastic at each end as a locator.

Hope that makes sense. Perhaps I'll take some photos when I build the next one to make it crystal clear, but don't hold your breath waiting :)

When I first posted that pic I was only going to do the rear springs but now I've chopped the front off I'll have a go at the front too.

That makes total sense to me! Thank you very much for that..just one tiny little question (sorry to be such a pain..:smile: ): if that is solder, isn't it quite ductile and soft? As you say "Next, cut to the 'spring' slightly longer than needed so it will compress and hold itself in tightly." . I don't understand how you manage to do that (because its softness and ductility..)
Once again, thank you.

No, sorry to confuse you, it is not solder but stainless steel wire. The students bend it into a 'staple' and use solder to bond it to the circuit board. It is stiff and strong enough to hold its shape, kind of like fencing or locking wire. I agree solder would be way too soft for this application.

Ohh, now I get it! I guess I'll have to search around for that kind of wire...:D
Thank you for your time and pacience.

Petter, you may also wind the wire around the thread of a suitably sized screw/bolt and the just screw the spring out of it once you have wound a suitable length. That way the coils are more likely to be spaced evenly, although usually you can get very good results using Phil's method. I've used brass or copper wire to do my springs. Experiment and I'm sure you'll be doing nice springs after just a test or two.

-Mikko

Good god man! What have you done! :screwy: :iceslolan If you pull this off, this will be an amazing model..may the force be with you :evillol:

And I thought I had work to do.... :lol:

Making very slow progress with the Stratos. Mainly having difficulty trying to get the front to hang together convincingly. Here is a small bit of work I've done at the rear, scratchbuilding a new airbox to sit over the engine induction system. I'm going to cover it in tissue paper and muck around with various coloured and clear coats, also maybe a wash, to try and make it look like yellow/orangey fibreglass.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846Dcp_1992.JPG

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846Dcp_1997.JPG

Very neat..is that just made from styrene? I'll be interested on what you come up with for a fibre glass look as I'm about to try something similar on the inside of a one piece flip front on my Malibu. I was thinking of finding the finest, thinnest material I could and covering it with that firs..., maybe silk or something. I hadn't considered tissue. I might have a go.

Wow, this is looking pretty slick!! I will be following the conversion.

You can also cover the intended piece in carbon kevler deacal, and put gobs of settign solution on, the decal will melt and convincingly "drip" over the part, creating fold and tesxture of fiberglass. then after it dries you can paint it whatever color you want ;)

Wow, this is looking pretty slick!! I will be following the conversion.

You can also cover the intended piece in carbon kevler deacal, and put gobs of settign solution on, the decal will melt and convincingly "drip" over the part, creating fold and tesxture of fiberglass. then after it dries you can paint it whatever color you want ;)

Thanks SLK320, that could be a good technique too.

Yeah Eddie it is made from layers of sheet styrene, a couple of 5mm plastic tubes and putty to contour everything. The two tubes were thinned down at the edge, so they look very thin.

Here is the result of the tissue texturing, glued with clear paint. Then sprayed white, gold, clear orange, clear green, smoke and finally clear yellow! Still needs a black wash or something for a bit more depth and to knock the shine down. Will also be fitting two small pieces of gauze in the ends of the two tubes. The technique didn't produce much of a weave, just general roughness. Bare in mind the photo is about three to four times the size of the actual part!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846Dcp_2045.JPG

Great work, Phil. I enjoy your methodical builds.

Cool. That looks great, who cares about the weave I likt that as is. Good job.

Thanks SLK320, that could be a good technique too.

Yeah Eddie it is made from layers of sheet styrene, a couple of 5mm plastic tubes and putty to contour everything. The two tubes were thinned down at the edge, so they look very thin.

Here is the result of the tissue texturing, glued with clear paint. Then sprayed white, gold, clear orange, clear green, smoke and finally clear yellow! Still needs a black wash or something for a bit more depth and to knock the shine down. Will also be fitting two small pieces of gauze in the ends of the two tubes. The technique didn't produce much of a weave, just general roughness. Bare in mind the photo is about three to four times the size of the actual part!

LOL! i get that kind of texture without the tissue... i guess i'm just terrible with paint :)

:lol: SchuberT :lol:

Thanks guys, I too am happy with the fibreglass effect, especially after I gave it a wash with artists acrylics. However the shape now looks wrong, so I'll chalk this effort up to experience and build another one...

Hey, any updates on this one? It's just a so amazing project...

hmmm must have missed this one first time around. This project is coming along nicely, but all good things take time. real fan of your work mate!! keep it up.

Thanks for remaining interested in this build guys. There hasn't been much progress lately for one reason or another. However there have been some signifigant changes to how it is going to finish up.

However there have been some signifigant changes to how it is going to finish up.


Not in its rightful place on your shelf?

Had a few days to myself and made a bit of progress with this old Stratos. The front is now hinged:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/50846Dcp_2156.JPG
Wheels and part of the exhaust. Some of the wheels look a bit dark in this picture. The gold changes colour depending on the lighting conditions. In sunlight they look okay so that is the main thing. The exhaust still needs some heat treatment, the extractors will be made from aluminium rod.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/50846Dcp_2158.JPG
Here is a pic of the revised livery - 1974 Tour de Corse winner in marlboro colours. Unfortunately this is the only pic I have of the car.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/5084674TdeCorse_2.JPG

A wee bit of progress - here is the FIAT/Ferrari/Lancia V6 that will be mounted amidship. Still need to make the exhaust headers as well as some more painting and plumbing to busy it up.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/50846engine1.JPG

That engine looks amazing, Phil. Perhaps a little step-by-step on how you painted it?

Sure Alex, thanks.

Nothing special, I airbrushed the block with Gunze Silver, then gave it a wash of Tamiya Smoke and finished up with some drybrushing. The ancillaries like the oil filter, distributor and alternator were brush painted with Tamiya enamels. The heads were sprayed with Gunze Mr Metal Color Chrome Silver and buffed up to a high shine.

That is about it, I haven't used any Alclad on it! Originally I had a lot of different metal tones, but after the wash and dry brushing they all came out looking similar. The decals I've added are not accurate but add a bit of colour to an otherwise dreary silver-grey donk.

I see. Sounds simple yet deadly effective. I was thinking of trying a black undercoat with a light coat of silver or aluminium. Ever tried something like that?

Yeah, that is the way Alclad works best. Very effective on thin translucent coats. Need to pick the right paints to make it work.

Of course, the aircraft guys do a similar thing called pre-shading, a very subtle effect.

Very good looking engine! Great progress!

I also found some quite interesting pics of this car at:
http://www.rallysportnews.com.au/cms/A_20208/article.html

...and 2 of a similar one at:
http://www.supercars.net/garages/EBoNix3000/57v2.html

excellent workmanship. its very inspirational to see others take on such extensive projects!!