Isuzu Rodeo TICKING NOISE !

Anybody's rodeo tick only sometimes when you start it, then go away after anywhere from 5 seconds to a minute? Seems to be worse in colder weather as well. After the minute or so it completely and all of a sudden goes away and my engine sounds beautiful again.

Anybody's rodeo tick only sometimes when you start it, then go away after anywhere from 5 seconds to a minute? Seems to be worse in colder weather as well. After the minute or so it completely and all of a sudden goes away and my engine sounds beautiful again.

I'd say that is the best description of my Rodeo's tick. Worse just before a change. It's as if the oil just hasn't been pumped to where it needs to go, then it gets there.

I'd say that is the best description of my Rodeo's tick. Worse just before a change. It's as if the oil just hasn't been pumped to where it needs to go, then it gets there.

This exact scenario happens on occasion. From what I gather, it's "normal" and not a cause for concern.

Exactly, I have been hesitant to drive it until it stops ticking. I let it warm up a bit before I drive in the morning or whenever it starts up ticking. Anybody ever heard of marine-clean or something to that effect. A guy I know with a '95 rodeo said he added it to the oil and it made a world of difference immediately after.

Isuzu motors released a fix for the clicking and ticking, if oil hasnt been changed as needed, cylinder banks get stuck, they suggest 40weight motor oil, i did this with a quart of Lucas oil treatment and after 3000 miles it has hushed totally. Nothing will stop it instantly it take many miles to hush. Also the sea foam works great in the tank or through the vaccum intake

My 3.2L 95.5 was ticking pretty loudly until I changed to 10-30w Casterol and one quart of Lucas. I am not saying it has completely gone away but it has subsided by at least 80% IMHO. I also added soem seafoam to the tank. She has 124,500 miles on her.

Anybody's rodeo tick only sometimes when you start it, then go away after anywhere from 5 seconds to a minute? Seems to be worse in colder weather as well. After the minute or so it completely and all of a sudden goes away and my engine sounds beautiful again.


Mine does it every morning.

I have a 1994 rodeo with the V6 and it ticks all the time . I have used CD2 and oil is 10w 40 high milage valvoline and it hasnt helped still ticks away.The engine has 181,964 miles on it as well.

Anybody tried Royal Purple? Would it help?

I used to have the ticking issue, then I used lucas oil at one point and it hasn't been ticking anywhere near as loud since. It still ticks thoe if you listen closely.

Honestly, Lucas oil is snake oil and can actually do more harm then good.

What kind of oil filters are you guys running?

someone had told me that you can change the oil valve spring and you would have the oil pressure and no ticking. my problem is i have no oil pressure on any gage and now i do. had ticking when i paid for it 3yrs ago. 96 isuzu trooper limit w/218k

Strange enough I have found a semi-cure for my ticking: start the vehicle in the morning, let it run for about 5-10 seconds, shut down, wait about 10 seconds, start again, and the ticking/clacking is nearly gone and never comes back the rest of the day.

If I start it in the morning and then drive away it clacks and ticks for several hours and then suddenly hushes.

jayinhsv is right about the clicking/clacking noise!

I had the exact same symptoms. A year and half ago I had the Timing belt changed, and thought everything in there was also changed, but it was not.

Changing the hydraulic timing belt tension device solved my problem. IT WAS NOT AN ENGINE PROBLEM IT WAS A LITTLE PART PROBLEM. My mechanic told me it would require a complete engine overhaul---Don't Believe him/her if you can 1) drive away your car with full power. 2) Never sense a decrease in power or compression when you accelerate, and only hear the noise at idle.

What happens when this part goes bad is it leaves a gap with which the belt can flap back and forth constantly at low RPMS, causing the tension pulley to click/clack on the worthless tension device, and when pressure increases at Higher RPMS the loud clicking-clacking noise goes away. Even if your are on the highway you will notice the same effect:Apply the gas, the rpms increase the noise goes away. Remove the gas and the loud clacking noise returns, and for those of you who have oil pressure gauges-the oil pressure drops to 3-5 thousand on idle, and that is because the Timing belt is not capturing the revolutions of the engine and pushing the oil through. It has no tension

Honestly just change the BELT TENSIONER for those Loud Embarrassing clicking/claking noise and your car will sound like new again-well at least it won't have the embarrassing noise. It will require exposing everything down to the Water Pump, but it will be worth it. Buy a repair manual it will help some of the details and in/outs. Good Luck.

I am going to try seafoam too thx and also strat it and cut it off then start again it ticks just like a car low on oil. I have just had a new water pump, all three belts and a timing belt installed it still did it the other day of course my mechanic has never heard it because it only does it when I am by myself or at work so they can all think I am not putting oil in it

yes my does that too not always I have not noticed if it was cold or not ill chk that too

For those who are interested here's some videos I made under various circumstances illustrating the hydraulic lifters (which open and close your valves in the cylinder heads) and the hydraulic tensioner (which closes the gap on your timing belt once the timing belt is installed):

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?p=204843#204843

The hydraulic lifters are affected by poor oil changes and/or lack of proper oil, and, the hydraulic tensioner simply fails and doesn't take the slack out of the timing belt any longer. Mine happens to come and go, sometimes allowing more slack, sometimes not. Think of it as a shock absorber that sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.

I have a '95 Passport that I neglected like crazy for about 65k miles, maybe 4 or 5 oil changes the whole time. Made the clicking noise something fierce. After running one fast-acting engine cleaner (pour in, idle for 5 minutes, then change oil) and one 1500 mile cleaner, it still made racket. So I used one quart of HyPer Lube and the remainder 20-50 high-mileage (can't recall the brand, Valvoline maybe), and now it makes zero noise, and that's with a Fram high-mileage oil filter. That HyPer Lube is good stuff, thick as molasses but it definitely coats and seals.

I have a '95 Passport that I neglected like crazy for about 65k miles, maybe 4 or 5 oil changes the whole time. Made the clicking noise something fierce. After running one fast-acting engine cleaner (pour in, idle for 5 minutes, then change oil) and one 1500 mile cleaner, it still made racket. So I used one quart of HyPer Lube and the remainder 20-50 high-mileage (can't recall the brand, Valvoline maybe), and now it makes zero noise, and that's with a Fram high-mileage oil filter. That HyPer Lube is good stuff, thick as molasses but it definitely coats and seals.

What auto part store did you get "HyPer Lube" from? I want to try it out. Thanks.

Got the HyPer Lube at Schuck's, in the engine treatment section. You can find it most anywhere out here in Washington.

just to shed some light on this old topic Alot of the ticking you hear in newer vehicles. I.E Chevy Colorado, Avalanche. 4.3 5.3 6.0. whatever engine including my Grand Marquis with 4.6 ford. it is generally the sound of the fuel injectors opening and closing. also know as injector tick.

Ok ... but on Isuzu's there are TSB on the issue. It is due to dirty lifters ...

I'll repeat: I tried everything--addititves, synthetic oil, different weights, different brands of filter, etc. Finally used a quart of Rislone with a new conventional oil change of the recommended weight, and the noise went away in 200 miles. I used Rislone thereafter and the noise was gone.

I have a 97 izuzu rodeo and it sounds like a go-cart wen it's running. I got it checked out and the guy said it would be $600

My Rodeo ticks only when cold started, and RPM's start to drop down. Then the ticking begins. And continues until warm. I've tried everything. Replace valve cover seals. No luck. New plugs. Clean Plug Wire connections, a little improvement. Different Oils. No go. After reading this forum, I've decided to try SEAFOAM in Gas, before Oil change and during Oil change.. I got better results when I used BG MOA, added to oil and then it ticked alot more, drained the Oil, put in 5W-20 and I've seen improvement. The ticking goes away before it warms up.

hate to bump such an old post but just for the record. I have run rislone, cd2, oil treatments, marvel mystery oil, tranny fluid, everything on the web forums, u name if it claims to "free sticky lifters" and "quiet noisy engines" its been in my crankcase. None of it worked for me. My rodeo gets babied, it doesnt smoke, doesnt burn oil, doesnt leak. I do all my maintenance myself and It runs great. It ticks...so what. I can live with that. its a 3.2 Liter V6 engine for cryin out loud. its going to make some noise.

hate to bump such an old post but just for the record. I have run rislone, cd2, oil treatments, marvel mystery oil, tranny fluid, everything on the web forums, u name if it claims to "free sticky lifters" and "quiet noisy engines" its been in my crankcase. None of it worked for me. My rodeo gets babied, it doesnt smoke, doesnt burn oil, doesnt leak. I do all my maintenance myself and It runs great. It ticks...so what. I can live with that. its a 3.2 Liter V6 engine for cryin out loud. its going to make some noise.
My Rodeo only ticks when cold started. And I've tried everything to get rid of the Tick. Including BG MOA. You did not mention that. A couple days ago I went back to fresh oil and theres a slight tick in my engine. I'm like you, gonna have to just live with it. Isuzu owners have no choice either. Theres no Isuzu techs anymore. Dealers are scarce. Mine is a 94 and would be cheaper to just buy a newer used car such as a 2002. I'll never buy a foreign vehicle ever again. Finding a dealer has been difficult for me. Especially if you move alot.

My Rodeo only ticks when cold started. And I've tried everything to get rid of the Tick. Including BG MOA. You did not mention that. A couple days ago I went back to fresh oil and theres a slight tick in my engine. I'm like you, gonna have to just live with it. Isuzu owners have no choice either. Theres no Isuzu techs anymore. Dealers are scarce. Mine is a 94 and would be cheaper to just buy a newer used car such as a 2002. I'll never buy a foreign vehicle ever again. Finding a dealer has been difficult for me. Especially if you move alot.

you dont have to move a lot to have trouble finding a dealer. isuzu got the heck outta dodge. We'll eventually look like those idiots you see driving diahatsu where you think why doesnt he just drive that %*$ off a cliff; those went extinct decades ago. mine was blessed with an "H" in the front so i go to the honda dealer sometimes for parts. i've heard use thinner oil so it gets in the nooks and crannies....use thicker oil so it coats everything. maybe one day it will quiet down but it does beat a car payment though

you dont have to move a lot to have trouble finding a dealer. isuzu got the heck outta dodge. We'll eventually look like those idiots you see driving diahatsu where you think why doesnt he just drive that %*$ off a cliff; those went extinct decades ago. mine was blessed with an "H" in the front so i go to the honda dealer sometimes for parts. i've heard use thinner oil so it gets in the nooks and crannies....use thicker oil so it coats everything. maybe one day it will quiet down but it does beat a car payment though
Glad to hear you know about the lack of Isuzu Dealers and Techs. Started my Rodeo this morning and it did not even tick. What a relief. But I know soon it will be back. I've been trying to figure out whether to sell, charity or send it to the junk yard. A ticking engine will get you into a law suit. I like my Rodeo, but its got more little issues other than ticking when cold started. Rear Washer leaks $100.00, Isuzu Generator 300.00, Windshield leaks 200.00, Right Door lock 50.00, Spare Tire Cover 200.00 (hard to get) Not many in existence. Unless the engine starts to cooperate, it goes!! ENGINE TICKING IS A BAD SIGN!!! And when it gets cold mine TICKS Loudly. Its like a Ghost, there one day and gone the next. Cant figure it out.

Engine Valve Train - Ticking Noise
BULLETIN NUMBER:
SB00-01-S009

ISSUE DATE:
SEPTEMBER 2000

GROUP:
ENGINE

TICKING SOUND FROM HYDRAULIC VALVETRAIN
(Supersedes SB00-01-S002)

NOTE : This service bulletin is being revised to update parts information.

AFFECTED VEHICLES

Some 1997 and earlier Trooper (UX) and Rodeo (UC) V6 models

SERVICE INFORMATION

Condition:
The above affected vehicles may exhibit a condition of ticking sounds coming from the valvetrain during normal operation.

Possible Cause:
One or more hydraulic lash adjusters do not fully extend due to varnish build-up inside. This condition results from exceeding the required oil and filter change intervals. Severe driving conditions require more frequent oil and filter changes. (Refer to appropriate Owner's Manual or Workshop Manual for details.)

Correction:
A typical repair for the condition may involve the replacement of the affected rocker arm(s), and rocker shaft(s). However, follow the information in this bulletin to perform an oil/filter change using 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, prior to replacing any valvetrain component.

NOTE : Although the current recommended engine oil for these engines is 10W-30 API SJ, the 0W-30 synthetic engine oil allows air in the hydraulic lash adjusters to bleed out quickly and removes the varnish that is preventing hydraulic lash adjuster piston travel.


Service Procedure
1. Drain the engine oil, replace the oil filter with a Genuine Isuzu oil filter, and refill the crankcase with 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil.

2. With the engine warm, run it at 2,500 rpm for 30 minutes.

^ If the ticking noise goes away, return the vehicle to the customer.

^ If the ticking noise persists, proceed with step 3.







3. Let the motor run at idle and use a stethoscope or Steel screwdriver to determine which bank is noisy. Once you have determined the location, turn the key off. (Figure 1)

4. Remove the cylinder head cover on the noisy bank.






5. Inspect each rocker arm for clearance at the valve (when the rocker is on the base circle of the cam and the valve is closed). The noisy rocker arms are the ones with clearance. (Figure 2)

NOTE : Each cylinder head has one oil pressure relief valve that controls oil pressure to its rocker arms. If all rocker arms on one cylinder head have clearance and/or the rocker arm pivot shaft is worn, then the cylinder head oil pressure relief valve may be stuck open. In this case, refer to the appropriate Workshop Manual for additional troubleshooting procedures.





6. Remove the ticking rocker arm assembly, and inspect the wear pattern of the hydraulic lash adjuster surface that contacts the valve stem (the intake rocker arm is located under the camshafts, which require timing belt removal).






7. Carefully remove the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster(s) from the Rocker Arms using your fingers. (Figure 4)

IMPORTANT : Do not damage the O-Ring on the outside of the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster, or you will have to replace the entire rocker arm (the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster cannot be ordered separately). When replacing an exhaust rocker arm, replace its intermediate rocker arm too.





8. Insert a paper clip into the hole at the top of the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster and depress the spring loaded check ball, while completely pushing in the piston at the opposite end. Some traces of oil may come out of the check ball hole. (Figure 5)






9. Carefully remove and retain the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster O-Ring. Spray the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster piston with carburetor cleaner to remove any varnish (while holding the piston in). (Figure 6)






10. Submerge the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster in new cleaning solvent; (while depressing the check ball) pump the piston repeatedly to allow the cleaning solvent to penetrate through the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. (Figure 7)

11. Submerge the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster in clean 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, (while depressing the check ball) pump the piston repeatedly to allow 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil to penetrate through the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. Then allow the piston to extend fully, to fill the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster with oil.

12. Reinstall the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster O-Ring.

13. Lube the Rocker Arm bore that houses the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster with 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, then push the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster back into place.

14. Inspect for leaks at the check ball and piston by attempting to compress the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster without depressing the check ball (The Hydraulic Lash Adjuster should not leak or compress).

NOTE : Oil filled Hydraulic Lash Adjuster will hold its valve off the seat for several crank revolutions. This may cause the engine to run rough for a short period after starting. To prevent this, select one cylinder and bleed some oil off the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster (depress the Check Ball and compress the piston 1/4 of the way down). This will allow the valve to close. Do not remove all of the oil or the valves spring and cam will collapse the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster permanently.





15. Reassemble the engine using new cylinder head cover gasket (see Parts Information) and apply some gasket seal at the corners where the cam tower gasket and cylinder meet. Torque the Cylinder head cover bolts to 8 Nm (69 lb. in) using hand tools only.

16. Start the engine and listen for noise.

17. Remind the customer, "More frequent oil changes can prevent varnish accumulation." Also recommend to use minimum oil rating of: API Service SG, but SJ is preferred

Engine Valve Train - Ticking Noise
BULLETIN NUMBER:
SB00-01-S009

ISSUE DATE:
SEPTEMBER 2000

.........


0w-30 is almost $9 per quart and the 3.2L V6 takes 5.7. WHEW!!! Sadly with all that Ive tried Ive have never tried this fix. Will do some more research.

0w-30 is almost $9 per quart and the 3.2L V6 takes 5.7. WHEW!!! Sadly with all that Ive tried Ive have never tried this fix. Will do some more research.
I've also changed teh way I do Oil Changes. I will let the Oil Drain for at least 24Hrs. Cant believe I Have this problem. I changed the Oil at 3000 miles or when it started to tick. Thanks for the Link to Planet Isuzu. The info fits my problem.

Hate to bring this back up so late but as an update to the ticking. about 500 miles prior to my oil change i added a quart of rislone. When it came time for the oil chage I swapped a quart of oil for a quart of rislone and used a mobil 1 filter. I didnt notice until today (about 500 miles later...so rislone has been running through the engine for about 1000 miles total) the ticking has significantly improved and is now tolerable. I do however have the ticking at a cold start that another gentleman mentioned but if you turn the car off after 10 seconds and then restart it, its quiet as a mouse?!?!?!!? WTF!!!! If you dont do that, it will go away on its own after a few blocks. I am now a believer that rislone is actually doing something inside the engine.

Hate to bring this back up so late but as an update to the ticking. about 500 miles prior to my oil change i added a quart of rislone. When it came time for the oil chage I swapped a quart of oil for a quart of rislone and used a mobil 1 filter. I didnt notice until today (about 500 miles later...so rislone has been running through the engine for about 1000 miles total) the ticking has significantly improved and is now tolerable. I do however have the ticking at a cold start that another gentleman mentioned but if you turn the car off after 10 seconds and then restart it, its quiet as a mouse?!?!?!!? WTF!!!! If you dont do that, it will go away on its own after a few blocks. I am now a believer that rislone is actually doing something inside the engine.
I've seen some improvement since using BG MOA. The tick goes away before warmup. And the tick is very light. Next I'm gonna try BG's Engine Oil Change Cleaner.

Engine Valve Train - Ticking Noise
BULLETIN NUMBER:
SB00-01-S009

ISSUE DATE:
SEPTEMBER 2000

GROUP:
ENGINE

TICKING SOUND FROM HYDRAULIC VALVETRAIN
(Supersedes SB00-01-S002)

NOTE : This service bulletin is being revised to update parts information.

AFFECTED VEHICLES

Some 1997 and earlier Trooper (UX) and Rodeo (UC) V6 models

SERVICE INFORMATION

Condition:
The above affected vehicles may exhibit a condition of ticking sounds coming from the valvetrain during normal operation.

Possible Cause:
One or more hydraulic lash adjusters do not fully extend due to varnish build-up inside. This condition results from exceeding the required oil and filter change intervals. Severe driving conditions require more frequent oil and filter changes. (Refer to appropriate Owner's Manual or Workshop Manual for details.)

Correction:
A typical repair for the condition may involve the replacement of the affected rocker arm(s), and rocker shaft(s). However, follow the information in this bulletin to perform an oil/filter change using 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, prior to replacing any valvetrain component.

NOTE : Although the current recommended engine oil for these engines is 10W-30 API SJ, the 0W-30 synthetic engine oil allows air in the hydraulic lash adjusters to bleed out quickly and removes the varnish that is preventing hydraulic lash adjuster piston travel.


Service Procedure
1. Drain the engine oil, replace the oil filter with a Genuine Isuzu oil filter, and refill the crankcase with 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil.

2. With the engine warm, run it at 2,500 rpm for 30 minutes.

^ If the ticking noise goes away, return the vehicle to the customer.

^ If the ticking noise persists, proceed with step 3.







3. Let the motor run at idle and use a stethoscope or Steel screwdriver to determine which bank is noisy. Once you have determined the location, turn the key off. (Figure 1)

4. Remove the cylinder head cover on the noisy bank.






5. Inspect each rocker arm for clearance at the valve (when the rocker is on the base circle of the cam and the valve is closed). The noisy rocker arms are the ones with clearance. (Figure 2)

NOTE : Each cylinder head has one oil pressure relief valve that controls oil pressure to its rocker arms. If all rocker arms on one cylinder head have clearance and/or the rocker arm pivot shaft is worn, then the cylinder head oil pressure relief valve may be stuck open. In this case, refer to the appropriate Workshop Manual for additional troubleshooting procedures.





6. Remove the ticking rocker arm assembly, and inspect the wear pattern of the hydraulic lash adjuster surface that contacts the valve stem (the intake rocker arm is located under the camshafts, which require timing belt removal).






7. Carefully remove the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster(s) from the Rocker Arms using your fingers. (Figure 4)

IMPORTANT : Do not damage the O-Ring on the outside of the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster, or you will have to replace the entire rocker arm (the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster cannot be ordered separately). When replacing an exhaust rocker arm, replace its intermediate rocker arm too.





8. Insert a paper clip into the hole at the top of the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster and depress the spring loaded check ball, while completely pushing in the piston at the opposite end. Some traces of oil may come out of the check ball hole. (Figure 5)






9. Carefully remove and retain the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster O-Ring. Spray the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster piston with carburetor cleaner to remove any varnish (while holding the piston in). (Figure 6)






10. Submerge the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster in new cleaning solvent; (while depressing the check ball) pump the piston repeatedly to allow the cleaning solvent to penetrate through the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. (Figure 7)

11. Submerge the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster in clean 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, (while depressing the check ball) pump the piston repeatedly to allow 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil to penetrate through the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. Then allow the piston to extend fully, to fill the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster with oil.

12. Reinstall the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster O-Ring.

13. Lube the Rocker Arm bore that houses the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster with 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, then push the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster back into place.

14. Inspect for leaks at the check ball and piston by attempting to compress the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster without depressing the check ball (The Hydraulic Lash Adjuster should not leak or compress).

NOTE : Oil filled Hydraulic Lash Adjuster will hold its valve off the seat for several crank revolutions. This may cause the engine to run rough for a short period after starting. To prevent this, select one cylinder and bleed some oil off the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster (depress the Check Ball and compress the piston 1/4 of the way down). This will allow the valve to close. Do not remove all of the oil or the valves spring and cam will collapse the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster permanently.





15. Reassemble the engine using new cylinder head cover gasket (see Parts Information) and apply some gasket seal at the corners where the cam tower gasket and cylinder meet. Torque the Cylinder head cover bolts to 8 Nm (69 lb. in) using hand tools only.

16. Start the engine and listen for noise.

17. Remind the customer, "More frequent oil changes can prevent varnish accumulation." Also recommend to use minimum oil rating of: API Service SG, but SJ is preferred
I have a real big question for everyone. Where was the Rodeo manufactured. At the time there was 2 plants in America. Reason being is I've heard people say there Rodeo run just fine. Its makes me wonder if it was a Manufacturing Plant at fault. I'd really like to do a POLL on this. If anyone is interested. The info is where you open the drivers door. And on a sticker.

i had the same porblem but i let it go for awhile and when i was driving around and i heard a loud pop and the noise stopped and lost alot of power any suggestions

Guys,
I have a 2001 rodeo 3.2L
around 140k

2 weeks ago, I decided to clean EGR Valve (myself) and got oil change at Ez Lube, (as always), since that day I noticed there is ticking noise, I can't tell there it's exactly coming from but I usually hear it when I stop at red light, stop sign or park my car and it goes away right after I hit gas pedal. or I don't hear it anymore :). it's not always, but it happens everyday, I was wondering if ezlube used wrong type of oil or used worst quality oil instead of what I paid (castrol gtx)

what you guys think?

Just wanted to say Thanks for all the ideas with the ticking noise. I was ready to get rid of our 96 slx. The ticking was VERY loud and our mechanic said it would be a costly repair. But one quart of rislone and a mobile 1 full synth 5w30 oil change and the ticking was GONE in 10 miles!!! I never post...but I wanted to say a BIG THANKS...will update if there are changes.

I have a 95 Rodeo 5 speed 3.2v6. I work at an auto parts store and I have tried the sea foam. It helped and cleaned out the engine great - put it in your fuel too for the fuel injectors. But, it did not completely cure my ticking. I have noticed while out and about it does seem to be a common Isuzu problem because I have heard it in a lot of them. I had already thought I would try the Rislone next, it is a wonderful product and has helped several of our customers. I am due for an oil change and will post the result. I have not been impressed with putting the cheap oil in mine. I have had other vehicles that didn't seem to be affected by it, but my Rodeo doesn't like it. I tried the Motorcraft semi-synthetic and didn't like it either. I am thinking Castrol High Mileage next since I am at 170,000 ODO miles.