97 LUMINA starting problem

Every now and then my car just won't start. The lights come on full power and the radio works just fine but it doesn't make any sounds like if the engine were trying to turn over. I can move the ignition back to the off possition and try again and after about 10-15 tries it will start. I'm wondering if it's my starter?

If it is does anyone know where it is located and how difficult it would be to replace? Thanks.

A couple things could be happening.
Does the security light come on or flash when the car will not start?
There is a starter relay that controls voltage to the soleniod that is controled by the theft deterrent module.
before replacing anything, I recommend doing a little diagnosis first to determine what the problem is.
if you have a test light, probe the purple wire at the starter (press the test light end onto the nut the wire connects to) and see if the light lights when you attempt to start the car (You will need a helper for that part).
If the test light illuminates and the starter does not engage then most likely you have a bad starter.
If the test light does not illuminate then you need to start looking at the control circuit.

Just something I thought of something....Does your ignition key have one of those pass-key security chips in it? I know 97 was one of the first years they used those. They're not hard to miss if it does. Those have been known to go bad and cause starting issues. They are not cheap to replace. That's just a thought.

I'd do what GMMerlin suggested though...try and rule out the theft deterrent module and the starter as causes of this problem.

This was originally posted in the Oldsmobile Intrigue forum but was reposted here given the shared body style of the Lumina/Grand Prix/Intrigue/Century

You may find this reply to be rather long but you need not read the Details section unless you wish to follow the specific symtoms preceding the solution.

Vehicle: 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue 3.5L

Issue: Vehicle will not start or may not run.

Solution: Faulty ignition switch. (Replace or disassemble and clean contacts)

Discovery: Ignition switch was removed from vehicle and disassembled. Start and run circuit contacts exhibited mild burning/smut build-up leading to intermittent high resistance or opening of start and run circuits. Contacts were cleaned and switch reassembled. Leads and connections to switch appeared to be in good condition. Issue has failed to reappear.

Details: Between April-August '03 vehicle began exhibiting with increasing frequency one of four conditions:

1) will not crank,
2) cranks w/o starting,
3) starts but will die immediately or run for short period (3-5 sec) then die,
4) starts and runs but will die w/o warning while vehicle is in motion.

Early on 1-3 would manifest only upon restarting warm. Toward the end, item 4 began to be observed regularly with 1-3 being seen for warm or cold starts.

An interesting observation was made but failed to be understood in the context of the observed problem. Normal behavior for the tachometer is to 'pop-up' indicating the current engine speed following a successful start and release of the key. When the tachometer failed to respond following start and return of the key, condition 3 was always observed.

OBD II system was interrogated using Auterra Diagnostic Module. It was important to note that OBD II never reported a stored code (at least none persisting longer than the next start, successful or not). Why was this? Consideration was made of each of the many devices dealing with engine maintainence. Nearly all of the on-board devices which might have been suspect, should they fail, would generate a code and upon failure OBD II would revert to default setting or seek the information via redundancy to allow continued operation as opposed total shutdown.

After a few wiring checks and some reflection it was considered that perhaps a code was not stored because the problem was not one which the vehicle considered to be a device failure. Turning off the vehicle is not an event that would generate a code (obviously) as it is considered normal operation but a bad ig switch contact would behave similarly thus resulting in a 'no-code' problem. This consideration led me to suspect a possible failure of the ignition switch or one of its leads/connections.

Hope this helps.

Mark

Personal plug: The author has held certifications in 7 of 8 ASE automotive specialties but subsequently 'traded' these for a B.S. and M.S. in Inorganic Chemistry. If anyone reading this is interested in employing a strong analytical thinker with a formidable mechanical and scientific aptitude please contact at: mbiscott(at)att(dot)net. Thanks.