I installig a drag turbo do i need anyhing else?

I bought an Drag genation turbo complete do i need anything else .do i need to do something to my ecu. this is what it comes with: do ineed to buy anything extra

Garret T3/T4
• Custom downpipe
• Autometer boost gauge
• Custom tubular manifold
• High flow Bosch fuel pump
• Chrome intercooler and turbo piping
• Boost dependent fuel pressure regulator
• Turbonetics Deltagate wastegate
• HKS sequential blow-off valve
• All necessary plumbing
• Front mount intercooler
• Check valves

thank you

yeah, you'll need some JB weld, get that return line fitted on...

damn, your lucky! I want turbo too! I give you props for having turbo.

Do you have the right internals? What GEN is it?

you don't need internals utilize the drag kit or any other kit for that matter...

I hope you are going to rebuild your engine or it isn't going to last very long...I had to do all of thise stuff to make sure that my engine was going to live through all the power of adding turbo...

Type-R Engine rebuilt for racing by NOPI and IRA companies based in CA
Pro Series 2 Block
F-Max stage 4/5 Hybrid Turbo Kit
F-Max intercooler
F-Max fuel pressurizer
F-Max Fuel Pump
F-Max Intake
F-Max Wastegate
F-Max Intake Manifold
25% increased injector size
STR Fuel Rail
APEXi BOV
APEXi Autotimer/Harness
Slotted Rotors
Brimbo Brake Pads
Autometer Exhaust Gas Temperature Guage
Autometer Oil Pressure Guage
Autometer Boost Guage
Autometer 3 Pod Guage Pillar
Skunk2 CAM Gears
Clutchmasters 8lb flywheel
ACT Clutch System with Street/Strip Disc
Type-R Transmission
Fluidyne Radiator
Unorthodox SS Underdrive Pullies
Type-R ECU
DC Sport Short Shifter
LSD (forgot brand lol)
Tanabe Racing Medallion Exhaust
Clear Corners
Carbon Fiber Euro's
Xenon Bulbs
Type-R Shift Knob (Running out of things lol)
Pedal Covers
Kenwood Excellon CD-Player
Type-R Shoulder Pads
Custom Floor Mats

not all of it was necessary but all the motor work was...the engine will not handle the power for long if it is not rebuilt to...

as for ECU no need to change if it going to be a daily driver...in order to get a better ECU to work you will need a lot of time on a Dyno so it will do the best for you...otherwise it is not worth it...there are programs available for the stock ECU's to compensate for the power and all..you may want to get bigger fuel injectors though...that is what I did...it will do about the same good for you

:eek2: damn, thats a long list. How much did everything cost???:eek2:

I have connections with an owner of a performance shop, and he has connections with NOPI and I got everything really really cheap...I only paid like $13,000 for it all which is unbelievable

How do you have a 94 TYPE-R?

Or is it a GS-R

Originally posted by mikeSONICGSR
How do you have a 94 TYPE-R?

Or is it a GS-R

I think he swapped a B18C in there.

dude my car is more Type-R than GS-R the only GS-R parts left in it are the body and like the interior...even that won't be that way for long...engine and Tranny are both Type-R ECU is Type-R none of the GS-R front end is left except the sway bar which won't be for long either

you do not need that long list of applications that you mentioned...all you really need is fuel, and the drag kit comes with a good enough fuel solution to support what most people are aiming at.

as for your setup, you should really get a standalone engine managment unit, there is no point in building a motor if you're not gonna get an standalone and fine tune the fuel and spark maps. PLus, my setup cost me about $6,000 less than that and can gaurantee me 400+hp...I haven't been on the dyno yet, but will be when I have time...

You shouldnt have to do internal work unless you really start cranking up the boost. otherwise 11-13psi on stock internals should be ok. (This is what I have heard)

well I know for a fact that on a factory engine it will blow between 8-12 psi off of a turbo if it is not built...I had one....I am telling you that if you want to be safe then you will need to build it up at least some...like I said before not all of everything I have is necessary...but the engine needs to be able to handle it or it isn't going to last very long...maybe 40,000 miles or so....fuel is needed and for the most part that is really what you really really need...everything else is just really really expensive to do later like cam gears and pullies..I have well over 400 HP, but I built mine to last...you can do what you want, but I am telling what has been the best thing for making car's work the longest

ull need a good clutch


and on stock internals u can only run the boost up to 8psi. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by TurboType-R
well I know for a fact that on a factory engine it will blow between 8-12 psi off of a turbo if it is not built...I had one....I am telling you that if you want to be safe then you will need to build it up at least some...like I said before not all of everything I have is necessary...but the engine needs to be able to handle it or it isn't going to last very long...maybe 40,000 miles or so....fuel is needed and for the most part that is really what you really really need...everything else is just really really expensive to do later like cam gears and pullies..I have well over 400 HP, but I built mine to last...you can do what you want, but I am telling what has been the best thing for making car's work the longest

Actually a properly tuned engine won't blow w/ about 8 PSI, you'll want at least a thicker head gasket for more boost than that, at 12 PSI you'll want at lest a block gaurd and pistons, rods, don't forget new bearings and bushings for your bottom end. No where did you state a Standalone ECU system such as the Hondata which would be essential to a 400hp engine..........Also do you have golden eagle of Darton sleeves? One would thinkg your cylinder walls would fail at 400hp.
you built yours to last? How about you paid someone to build it, and why would you buy an ITR engine to turbo? Yes it has better cams and pistons, more HP and a nice P&P. But pistons are out the window since you want lower compression and not the higher compression of the ITR engine, also you'll prolly end up retarding your timing so those ITR cams aren't going to help all that much. Also for the cost of the ITR engine over the LS or the CRV engine it's not worth it. If I were to shell out all that money for a motor to turbo I would select the CRV engine since it's larger, and has lower compression. If I'm not mistaken it has thicker cylinder walls which would be good.

look man I don't know who all that was supposed to be directed to...all I can do is tell you what the guys at NOPI and other performance places around the southeast have told me, and all I can say is the fact that it has worked beatifully so far...you are right about the engine the compression in the engine is very high and way to high to be really strong for Turbo-Charging...and you are right I paid a professional that I know very well and watch him rebuild my car...I didn't want to waste all the money that I had used to get what I got...I knew generally what needed to be done and how to do but I lacked the tools and machines to do it correctly....I did not change any timing in my car the only that I changed was the pistons to low compression pistons which I was forced to do because my engine had blown pistons already and had to be replaced...I did what I did because it fell in my lap at an unbelievable price...you can say whatever you want or whatever all I know is what I have sitting in my driveway right now and what it is capable of....