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Chrysler New Yorker Brake Problem


LateNightJoeB
11-01-2003, 10:30 AM
When I apply the brakes, the pedal goes practically to the floor before stopping the car. I filled it with brake fluid. Seems a tiny bit better but not too much better. No leaks that I can see. If it were a leak would brake fluid be under the car? What would the possible problem be? If it is a few things it could be, what are they? It's driving me crazy cause other than this, the car looks and drives like a new car. Please help!!!!

proticus
11-08-2003, 03:34 PM
have you tried bleeding your brakes? air in the lines would cause it to feel spongy and take extra effort.

CHRISHARVARD
10-27-2004, 11:17 PM
yeah my 1990 New Yorker also has the same problem. It feels like theres no master cylinder! :-(

rwood13
11-01-2004, 12:42 PM
check for leaks in the system, bleed the brakes!, buy a manual, if it does not have a prescribed method start with the wheel farthest from the master clyinder and work to the closest, you may have to do this 2 or 3 times per wheel, if you can't gety a good pedal than it may be a master cylinder, if the face of the power booster where the master mounts is wet with brake fluid, don't bother with the bleed until you replace the master

mikalik
12-19-2004, 05:58 AM
you do have good brake pads, right? (or shoes)

countryboy97504
01-07-2005, 12:48 PM
I agree with bleeding the brake system, and if you do not notice any leaks from behind the wheels ( or from wheel cylinders if visible ) or at the Master cylinder, then my next option would be to check for a damaged diaphram in the vaccum assist behind the master cyclinder, or seals inside the the Master cyclinder, which allows oil to bypass rather than develope pressure.

squiggy2005
06-04-2005, 05:54 PM
Here's one for you. We replaced the whole braking system, some stuff from a junkyard but most stuff new, the car originally have the brakes fail while driving, we replaced the wheel cylnders and calipers with new ones, we replaced all brake lines. problem not fixed, no brakes, we replaced the proportional valve with a used one, didn't fix the problem, we bought a new master cylinder, didn't fix it either, we replaced the vacuum assist, still no brakes, we picked up another used master cylinder anf finally we got brakes but only when the car is not running. We have great brake pressure. Start the car and the brake pedal goes right to the floor. We tried bleeding the brakes many different times and many different ways. Anyone have any ideas?







I agree with bleeding the brake system, and if you do not notice any leaks from behind the wheels ( or from wheel cylinders if visible ) or at the Master cylinder, then my next option would be to check for a damaged diaphram in the vaccum assist behind the master cyclinder, or seals inside the the Master cyclinder, which allows oil to bypass rather than develope pressure.

E38_Charger
06-07-2005, 04:19 AM
Here's one for you. We replaced the whole braking system, some stuff from a junkyard but most stuff new, the car originally have the brakes fail while driving, we replaced the wheel cylnders and calipers with new ones, we replaced all brake lines. problem not fixed, no brakes, we replaced the proportional valve with a used one, didn't fix the problem, we bought a new master cylinder, didn't fix it either, we replaced the vacuum assist, still no brakes, we picked up another used master cylinder anf finally we got brakes but only when the car is not running. We have great brake pressure. Start the car and the brake pedal goes right to the floor. We tried bleeding the brakes many different times and many different ways. Anyone have any ideas?
Firstly did u try reseting proportioning valve and when the brakes are applied is it easy to lock them up? cos if it is there should b a small rubber disc inside the booster when u take off master. Get a torch and look in the hole, in the center there will be a black rubber (not metal) if there is no rubber then that will be the problem. It is about 1 centimeter thick and that on the pedal is almost to the ground cos of mechanical advantage.
I hope this helps. Also u should start your own thread so that people that have already read this one dont over look it.

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