Turbo on B16

Well, here goes. I plan on swapping a first gen B16 into my Accord. This is the easiest swap due to OBD issues. I also want to add a turbo. I've been researching tons of info. on turbos since I decided to do this but the more I research, the more confused I get. :banghead: I've seen on some websites that the B16 with stock internals will only handle 8 psi, others say 10 psi, 12, and even 14. I plan on adding a boost controller and running up to 3 psi for daily driving and turning it up for racing purposes, street or track. I need to know what max boost is on stock internals and what other things I need besides the turbo kit, lighter flywheel, and stronger clutch. I also want to add a Skunk2 intake manifold and turbo cams. Thanks for any help.

just get a drag turbo kit. it can take up to 8psi on stock internals. anyhting aftr that will become unsafe. also i would run 6psi daily 8psi is also good. you might want to add a new fuel pump, a boost controller, some injectors will be good also. cams arent need b\c you are not running a serious worked setup.
basic parts..
exhaust mainfold
turbo (t-25) will be good enuff
a fmic or side mount fmic,
i\c piping
bov
downpipe
exhaust
all the gaskets
you gona have to add a oil feed line form you oil pan to the turbo..
the easiest way i think is to buy a drag kit of something and modify it to fit into the accord.

1

I was planning on getting the drag kit. Is 3 psi is too little for daily driving? What size injectors do I need? What is FMIC? I'm not too sure of some of the abbreviations. I already have 2.25" exhaust. Will that be big enough? What about any engine management and FPR? I want to get the most power out of the engine I can running a drag kit.

get the Rev Hard kit, or piece one together.

Turbo of your choice
Turbo Manifold w/correct flange for your turbo
Intercooler, front or side mount
Wastegate
Blow off valve
Intercooler piping
Down pipe
2.75-3" exhaust
vaccuum lines
pipe clamps
oil return line
oil feed line (get a stainless steel one)
various fittings
fuel pump (i suggest that you go with a walbro 255lph intank pump)
a short pipe to use as an intake for the intake side on the turbo
for fuel management, i suggest hondata. you'll need either RC 440cc injectors and the adapter clips etc. or DSM 450cc injectors and a resistor box if the b16 doesnt already have one which i'm not sure about. about the hondata, if you go with a 1st generation b16 you can use the obd0 ecu, but it's recommended that you upgrade to a PR3 obd1 ecu which will also mean you need the ECU, distributor from the vehicle that the ecu came from and an adapter harness to convert it.
Also, your oil feed line does not come off of your oil pan, your oil return line does. for oil feed line, there is a oil sensor on the back of the block next to the filter, you take that out, insert a brass T, insert your sensor in one side and your oil feed line to the other and run it to your turbo

what he said..
fmic(front mounted intercooler) ;-)
1

Damn, that's a lot more than I expected. How much would I be looking to spend on making this thing turbo?

why not just drop an ls in there? im sure you would be more happy going turbo with that, b16's are high compression and dont usually run well with turbo's unless built for it, if your gonna go b16 ide say just go all motor

why not just drop an ls in there? im sure you would be more happy going turbo with that, b16's are high compression and dont usually run well with turbo's unless built for it, if your gonna go b16 ide say just go all motor

I've come up with a list of stuff to get going N/A and turbo. My N/A list includes
Stage 2 Skunk 2 cams with upgraded valvetrain
V-AFC
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Skunk2 cam gears
12.5 lb flywheel
CAI
Header
Hi-flow cat
Spoon chip.
What power numbers can I expect from this setup and are there flaws or is this good? What else can be added?

The turbo setup I've come up with includes:
Rev Hard Turbo Kit (7 psi)
Hondata s100
V-AFC
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold
440 cc injectors
Cam gears
8.5 lb flywheel
Hi-Flow Cat
Spoon Chip
Some of this stuff I just copied from the all motor list. I wasn't sure what can be left out.

The turbo setup is about $2000 more expensive but will result in more power obviously. This car will see street duty most of the time. I mainly want something that will be able to beat gsr's and preludes and the domestic sport compacts and keep up with, if not beat mustangs and camaros but I also want low e.t.'s at a track when I go.

go all motor

-bump-

wasn't sure if you saw my edited post, civicHBsi91

I've come up with a list of stuff to get going N/A and turbo. My N/A list includes
Stage 2 Skunk 2 cams with upgraded valvetrain
V-AFC
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Skunk2 cam gears
12.5 lb flywheel
CAI
Header
Hi-flow cat
Spoon chip.
What power numbers can I expect from this setup and are there flaws or is this good? What else can be added?

The turbo setup I've come up with includes:
Rev Hard Turbo Kit (7 psi)
Hondata s100
V-AFC
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold
440 cc injectors
Cam gears
8.5 lb flywheel
Hi-Flow Cat
Spoon Chip
Some of this stuff I just copied from the all motor list. I wasn't sure what can be left out.

The turbo setup is about $2000 more expensive but will result in more power obviously. This car will see street duty most of the time. I mainly want something that will be able to beat gsr's and preludes and the domestic sport compacts and keep up with, if not beat mustangs and camaros but I also want low e.t.'s at a track when I go.

you will never get what you want out of that N/A setup. although its a good setup it wont do well in your accord. its heavier then most civics and will not allow you to beat gsr's, preludes, and especially domestics. i highly suggest you get an LS motor and turbo it saving yourself a lot of money and making probably more power. although a turbo b16 is not to be underestimated.

you can make that NA alot cheaper if your lookin not to spend that much money but you should get some higher compression pistons and maybe a stage 3 cam. the idle on a stage 3 is not THAT bad i have driven one b4. also you could look at getting a port and polish if you are lookin to spend a little more money. but you have an accord which is heavy so you would need to lighten by taking out un needed shit to bring you down a few hundred lbs...and because lighter is faster. the other thing is that will an H22 fit in your car? cuz a NA H22 would go much faster than a lil B16. just my :2cents:

I've come up with a list of stuff to get going N/A and turbo. My N/A list includes
Stage 2 Skunk 2 cams with upgraded valvetrain
V-AFC
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Skunk2 cam gears
12.5 lb flywheel
CAI
Header
Hi-flow cat
Spoon chip.
What power numbers can I expect from this setup and are there flaws or is this good? What else can be added?

The turbo setup I've come up with includes:
Rev Hard Turbo Kit (7 psi)
Hondata s100
V-AFC
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold
440 cc injectors
Cam gears
8.5 lb flywheel
Hi-Flow Cat
Spoon Chip
Some of this stuff I just copied from the all motor list. I wasn't sure what can be left out.

The turbo setup is about $2000 more expensive but will result in more power obviously. This car will see street duty most of the time. I mainly want something that will be able to beat gsr's and preludes and the domestic sport compacts and keep up with, if not beat mustangs and camaros but I also want low e.t.'s at a track when I go.

if you use hondata you don't need a vafc, it's a waste of money, same with the spoon chip, don't get it, waste of money. The skunk2 manifold isn't necessary either, but it wouldn't be bad to have. here's what I suggest you do. Get the Rev Hard stage 2 kit. Ditch the Rev Hard FMU, wastegate and BOV. Sell them on EBAY or www.thepartstrader.com use that money to buy Hondata, Tial 35mm wastegate and a BOV of your choice. If you wanted to go real cheap, piece your own kit together. Have about 3000 to play with and you should have a really nice setup. I've already sourced and priced all of the parts I need. It's looking like I'm going to spend about $3200 on everything, and that's parts that I want that I know are quality, including getting it tuned. Take your time and do a lot of research and do it right the first time.

why not just drop an ls in there? im sure you would be more happy going turbo with that, b16's are high compression and dont usually run well with turbo's unless built for it, if your gonna go b16 ide say just go all motor

b16's are not a bad turbo candidate at all. I've read in numerous places of people boosting up to 10 psi on a stock b16 block. I wouldn't go too much past that in a b18a/b either. If anything the B16 should be your choice to go with cause either engine you choose you will eventually have to build up your bottom end to handle more boost. The B16 has much more potential than a b18a/b does.

Its heavier then most civics.

Don't forget this an 89 Accord. They're not as heavy as you might think. It only weighs about 2400 lbs.

with a B16 yes you do get HP but with a B18 the Hp and Torque are much closer. and torque is just as important as HP. plenty of people who have B16's have Torque Envy. yes in a B18B the hp is less than a B16 but there is room for improvement.

dude seriously, like 11 lbs of torque really make a difference. My friend has two integras. One is an LS and one is an RS with a b16 swap. He likes the b16 way more than the b18 cause he rips that b18 straight off the line. Even if you don't get them off the line, you'll get them in the top end. Not only that, b16's have near perfect rod-stroke ratios and a better intake manifold than the b18's

I was looking at the Rev Hard kit again and it has a 2.5" downpipe. I know that an exhaust is only as big as it's smallest pipe. If I run a 2.75-3" exhaust, it wouldn't make much difference since the downpipe is smaller. I'm wondering if my 2.25" will flow enough as long as I have a hi-flow cat. I just got the exhaust put on a couple months ago and I don't want to have to spend the money again getting a custom mandrel bent system unless I absolutely have to. To give you a better idea about my exhaust, it's a Pacesetter mandrel bent cat-back with Pacesetter muffler cut off and replaced with a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler finishing in a 3.5" polished Bosal tip. The whole cat back system has been coated with high temperature paint to prevent rusting.

i see that ur looking for a kit
i am an authorized dealer of drag in southern cali
if u are interested i can hook u up with one for a good price
hit me up and let me know