fuel for turbo

i have an 88 civic with a dohc zc and im doing a diy turbo kit with a t25 off of an eclipse and my Q is what should i do for the fuel and timming? im only going to run 5-6 psi if i just retard my timming a bit and get an fmu would thet be good low budget but has to be a daily driver?

get a 255lb in tank pump
get some 450cc injector posibally off the eclipse
get a fuel rail
and get a apex-i s-afc
that should be more than enuff
1

i cant do it with the stock injectors? i dont want to get in that far yet
thats why im only running 5-6 psi whats the min. i need for it?i heard fmu maybe a 255 pump and my msd 6a ignition would be fine. do you agree?

if u got more air comin through(i.e. turbo) u need more fuel to go with it.

I am planning on almost the same setup you are. ZC with t25 but for fuel and ignition management I am going to be using TurboEdit to tune my ecu.
It will only work with a 90-91 pm6 ecu so you would have to get one unless you are running the pm7 with your zc.(It will also work)

If you can soulder and you are alright with following directions you can use Ghettodyne or TurboEdit which will allow you to adjust fuel maps, ignition maps, rev limits, launch limits, and allows for use of bigger injectors. Everything that a hondata will do for alot less.

In general what you would be doing would be downloading one of the FREE programs, ghettodyne or turboedit, turboedit is still a work in progress but will let you adjust fuel and timing to your needs under boost.

Then you have to get a few parts that would let you burn a chip to replace the one in your ecu.
You have to do some souldering and desouldering to replace the chip. Then you just put in the new chip and go.

It sounds complicated but Is really worth it becuase you can buy all of the parts you need to start burning your chips for around $100.
You can also get an adapter that you will soulder to your ecu which will allow you to take a laptop out to your car and get info as your car runs!

Doing this will also let you run more boost safely. I plan on running 6 or 7psi daily and 8psi on race days.

Here are some sites that have directions on installation and the parts you would need.

www.ghettodyne.com

http://www.nitroburn.com/pgmfiwiki/index.php/HomePage

http://www.driftkids.com/index.php?page=rides&view=Jason&mods=PM6Chip

http://www.turboedit.org/

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?board=6;action=display;threadid=11462

for fmu get a 255 pump and a apex- safc msd isnt really need. the upgtaded fuel pump and a tuned ecu will work..
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if it's at all possible, ditch any kind of FMU. especially if you plan on being quick, cause that FMU is going to give you nothing but headaches when you really start to up the boost. Get a hondata unit with the boost upgrade. You'll need to convert to OBD1. So you'll need an OBD1 ecu, a distributor from the same vehicle you get the ecu, and a conversion harness. also, you'll need either 440cc RC engineering injectors, or 450cc DSM injectors. and then get that baby tuned

why is everyone bashing fmu's. They have a set fuel ratio, so as your boost goes up so does your fuel. Whats the problem!! i dont think he wants a 30psi all out race car

Taken straight from Hondata website:

Most power upgrades (turbocharger, supercharger, long duration cams etc) require substantially more fuel to be delivered to meet the engine. Out of the box, most forced induction setups rely on the use of extremely high fuel pressures (over 100 psi under boost), a rising rate regulator, and a noisy fuel pump. This method is inaccurate (as the fuel pressure will usually rise too slowly when the engine first goes into boost, then will over fuel under sustained boost), unreliable as all the fuel system is subject to 100-120 psi, and unsafe as the fuel pump is overworked, and will cause engine damage if it cannot delivery sufficient volume of fuel at the required pressure.

The rising rate regulator they're talking about is the same as your FMU

sorry that i'm sorta goin off the subject, what exactly is a fmu? i've read this thread, trying to figure it out, but i can't quite get it. thanks for your help. :bananasmi

An FMU (fuel management unit ???) forces more gas into the engine as the boost levels increase, and its a "ghetto rig" IMO, although its a ghetto rig that works in limited applications. IF your not running much boost, and aren't planning on tuning everything to be perfect, then I think it'd work just fine.
However by saying that, I don't mean that it is the optimal option by any means. The stock Map can read about 10psi (somewhere around there) but your ecu doesn't like getting readings like that, so you have to rig up some check valves, and bleed off pressure to the vaccum line. And since the Map isnt getting the correct reading you have to force more gas in there (becuase the ECU doesn't really know that its even getting more air without the MAP - so if you dont give it more gas it will run bad) However if you were just to get a hondata, you could actually skip all the rigging and just let the hondata figure it all out. This allows for better tuning and less worrying about if its getting lean, or if everything is working the way its supposed to. Also the hondata is very versitile, you can add alot of options to it if you ever want to up the power. There are other "hondata" type units out there, but I don't know them all, I hear Hondata is the best for the money.

P.S. I know hondata has a vtec controller buildt in, but I dont know if you didn't have one to start with, if it will work. (If that makes any sense).

:2cents:
Buzz1167
Jon N

thanks man. that's much more info then i had when i tried figuring it out.

i read that one guy ran 6- 8 psi on his d16a6 with a b&m command flow regulator set at 20 psi and dsm 380cc injectors and thats it. he said he never once had a problem. whats your opinions on that setup
im trying to find somthing for now till i can afford a zdyne tune
im only going to run 6 psi

You could run a turbo car without any management if you wanted to. But how long it will last is the question.