right way to bleed a clutch

Can someone try to explain the right way to bleed the hydraulic clutch system on a 93 s-10 pickup. I have been trying for a while and just can't seem to get it to work.
Thanks.

Is it soft and doesn't feel like it is engaging. I ran into this probem with my 95 s-10 when I put a new clutch in it. There are no nipples to bleed it and no place to put one in. What I did was crack the cap and pump on the clutch and till i worked all the air bubles up to the top. It takes a while but it worked.

Sold the 95 2.2L standard a couple of months later but never had a problem after that. Now I went with a auto 700R4 and a 383 stroker Vortec V-8 (true roller engine) and am putting all of this in a 89 S-15 extended cab, looking forward to drive a truck again :grinno: .

The clutch is always fully engaged. I can't get the clutch system bled to dis-engage it. A shop told me it takes 3-4 hours to bleed the system. They say the slave cylinder is bad. The entire clutch system was bought new from a chevy dealer, but the shop said it is not unusual to get a bad slave with the system. The whole system comes with the new clutch master, hose, slave cylinder, including the pushrod that goes into the clutch fork. The clutch plate and the release bearing are in correctly. The clutch fork is not pushing in enough. I'm pretty sure you bleed the clutch system the same way as the brakes. The slave on the transmission does have a bleed screw. So, I open the screw, push in the pedal, fluid comes out, close the screw, let the pedal up, add more fluid to the reservoir, then do the same all over again. I used up a medium-sized bottle of clutch fluid, but it's still not moving. It seems to build up pressure and be harder to push in, but then it loses the pressure. Please help. Could the slave be bad? Should I get another system? Chevy dealer cost is $154 plus tax. Thanks a lot for the help.
-Chris