b18 swap
joebob1
10-27-2003, 10:42 PM
how hard is it to put a b18 motor in a 90 crx is there any cutting involved or justs bolts in
fredthedragon
10-27-2003, 11:43 PM
buy a bolt in kit from hasport, the even sell them for the hydrolic transmission but your prolly going to want to get a b16 transmission they fit better in the civics.
91civicDXdude
10-28-2003, 12:50 AM
buy a bolt in kit from hasport, the even sell them for the hydrolic transmission but your prolly going to want to get a b16 transmission they fit better in the civics.
even with the mount kits its not entirely direct bolt in.. you'll still have to break out the ol sledge to beat some things up to get a b to fit in an EF.
First off, on the drivers side frame rail, directly underneath the little square hole, you'll need to bash it in about 1/4-1/2". Secondly, on the rear cross member where the rear mount goes, you'll need to bend the lip down so the mount will clear and not hit on the crossmember... that will make the car rattle really bad.
Lastly, and this really depends on the mount kit, but i found that with HCP mounts, i had to beat the firewall in about 1/4" to clear the rear mount, but maybe its just HCP mounts.
even with the mount kits its not entirely direct bolt in.. you'll still have to break out the ol sledge to beat some things up to get a b to fit in an EF.
First off, on the drivers side frame rail, directly underneath the little square hole, you'll need to bash it in about 1/4-1/2". Secondly, on the rear cross member where the rear mount goes, you'll need to bend the lip down so the mount will clear and not hit on the crossmember... that will make the car rattle really bad.
Lastly, and this really depends on the mount kit, but i found that with HCP mounts, i had to beat the firewall in about 1/4" to clear the rear mount, but maybe its just HCP mounts.
ZC4ME
10-28-2003, 05:57 AM
even with the mount kits its not entirely direct bolt in.. you'll still have to break out the ol sledge to beat some things up to get a b to fit in an EF.
First off, on the drivers side frame rail, directly underneath the little square hole, you'll need to bash it in about 1/4-1/2". Secondly, on the rear cross member where the rear mount goes, you'll need to bend the lip down so the mount will clear and not hit on the crossmember... that will make the car rattle really bad.
Lastly, and this really depends on the mount kit, but i found that with HCP mounts, i had to beat the firewall in about 1/4" to clear the rear mount, but maybe its just HCP mounts.
When using the HASport kit, everything he said applies with the exception of the firewall beating. There was a hood clearance issue, but I have heard they have since made an adjustment to the mount and they now offer them in billet (I think). Plus I think someone has designed a new front crossmember that allow a front motor mount to be used. We did a B18 swap in a 90 rex about two years ago and the three mounts in the HASport kit used a very stiff poly bushing which transmits considerable vibration to the car. I think four mounts with a more pliable insert would be better for daily driving. Just my .02
peace
Griff
First off, on the drivers side frame rail, directly underneath the little square hole, you'll need to bash it in about 1/4-1/2". Secondly, on the rear cross member where the rear mount goes, you'll need to bend the lip down so the mount will clear and not hit on the crossmember... that will make the car rattle really bad.
Lastly, and this really depends on the mount kit, but i found that with HCP mounts, i had to beat the firewall in about 1/4" to clear the rear mount, but maybe its just HCP mounts.
When using the HASport kit, everything he said applies with the exception of the firewall beating. There was a hood clearance issue, but I have heard they have since made an adjustment to the mount and they now offer them in billet (I think). Plus I think someone has designed a new front crossmember that allow a front motor mount to be used. We did a B18 swap in a 90 rex about two years ago and the three mounts in the HASport kit used a very stiff poly bushing which transmits considerable vibration to the car. I think four mounts with a more pliable insert would be better for daily driving. Just my .02
peace
Griff
redmanjd
10-28-2003, 10:17 AM
its not hard you only need the crossmember if your going turbo. Wiring is fairly difficult if you do it yourself
ZC4ME
10-28-2003, 10:41 AM
its not hard you only need the crossmember if your going turbo. Wiring is fairly difficult if you do it yourself
We used the ZDYNE 1-wire ECU conversion. We had to change a few plugs and use a different dizzy (and maybe a few other parts, can't really remember) but it was not bad, just had to add VTEC control.
peace
Griff
We used the ZDYNE 1-wire ECU conversion. We had to change a few plugs and use a different dizzy (and maybe a few other parts, can't really remember) but it was not bad, just had to add VTEC control.
peace
Griff
mellowboy
10-28-2003, 02:15 PM
Lastly, and this really depends on the mount kit, but i found that with HCP mounts, i had to beat the firewall in about 1/4" to clear the rear mount, but maybe its just HCP mounts.
thats funny. I didnt have to do that to my car. I only banged on the side where the alternator is at. I'm using hcp mounts also.
thats funny. I didnt have to do that to my car. I only banged on the side where the alternator is at. I'm using hcp mounts also.
kris
10-28-2003, 02:28 PM
I didnt even have to bang, just used a smaller alternator belt.
civickiller
10-28-2003, 02:50 PM
do wiring conversion if its a dx, get motor mounts, mash in driver side frame, get 90-93 throttle cable and clutch cable, with 90-93 teg radiator hoses, slap that bad boy in there and thats it. well idk about the fuel line, dont think u can use hte dx fuel line. i did a ls swap and it was so easy. i did run into a few problems but nothing that would of stopped me from getting it runnin, my the header the guy came me didnt clear the oil pan so i had to bang in the oil pan, and the end of the header didnt match up to my cat, but both were easy fix
91CRXHF
11-06-2003, 01:51 AM
place racing makes the mount for the front with the crossmember and are about the same $$$$ as the rest of the mounts
91civicDXdude
11-06-2003, 10:10 AM
Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by 91civicDXdude
Lastly, and this really depends on the mount kit, but i found that with HCP mounts, i had to beat the firewall in about 1/4" to clear the rear mount, but maybe its just HCP mounts.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
thats funny. I didnt have to do that to my car. I only banged on the side where the alternator is at. I'm using hcp mounts also.
/me shrugs. On my setup, the rear mount hit on the firewall very slightly. I didnt want to chance having nasty vibration or anything so i clearanced the firewall a little bit.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by 91civicDXdude
Lastly, and this really depends on the mount kit, but i found that with HCP mounts, i had to beat the firewall in about 1/4" to clear the rear mount, but maybe its just HCP mounts.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
thats funny. I didnt have to do that to my car. I only banged on the side where the alternator is at. I'm using hcp mounts also.
/me shrugs. On my setup, the rear mount hit on the firewall very slightly. I didnt want to chance having nasty vibration or anything so i clearanced the firewall a little bit.
Jay eS Iye
11-06-2003, 01:34 PM
this is good into to know, i'm a torque fan so i'm thinkin about the b18, possibly vtec it later. kinda o/t but i know that a b20 vtec would give more power, or even just the b20, but would it still be a good car for the streets?
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026