MPFI swap, wont start

I finally finished my MPFI swap into my 91 Civic DX auto. I tried to start it but it wont start. It will crank, but it doesnt even seem like its about to start. There is also a soft popping sound coming out of the exhaust when i crank it. I seriously need to get this thing started. Its already taken more time that i first thought it would. Heres what i thought might be wrong.

1. Wiring to distributor: I used a rebuilt 91 Civic Si distributor. I had to change the connectors at the wiring harness and the distributor because i didnt have an Si plug for the chassis side. I figured out which two wires were for the cylinder sensor by looking at my cousins 89 Si but i pretty much just guessed for the other five wires. Could this cause my car not to start?
2. Timing way off: Is it possible that i installed the distributor 180 degrees off? Supposedly there is some notch or something to prevent this from happening, but i was able to install it both ways. I put the #1 cylinder at TDC (i think) and put the distributor on when the rotor pointed to the #1 spark plug wire.
3. Main relay: This may or may not be it, it did start right before the swap.
4. ECU: I am using an 88 Integra auto ECU. Could it be a compatibility issue or can a bad ECU cause a car not to start?
5. Fuel line: Can i use my stock DX fuel filter to fuel rail hose on my new Si fuel rail?
6. Resistor box wires: Do the four red wires that power the injectors have to be connected in a certain order?
7. Unconnected sensor: I had a sensor on the Si manifold left unconnected. It is a sensor between the Air Intake Temperature sensor and the EAVC thingy. Does this have anything to do with it?
8. DX cap and rotor: Can i use the DX cap and rotor on the Si distributor?
9. Everyone talks about some ground from the distributor to the thermostat housing. I dont remember disconnecting any grounds.

I checked the fuses and double checked my wiring. I dont know what else to check. Please help me!

mpfi makes me sad...

Are you sure fuel is getting into the engine?

I finally finished my MPFI swap into my 91 Civic DX auto. I tried to start it but it wont start. It will crank, but it doesnt even seem like its about to start. There is also a soft popping sound coming out of the exhaust when i crank it. I seriously need to get this thing started. Its already taken more time that i first thought it would. Heres what i thought might be wrong.

1. Wiring to distributor: I used a rebuilt 91 Civic Si distributor. I had to change the connectors at the wiring harness and the distributor because i didnt have an Si plug for the chassis side. I figured out which two wires were for the cylinder sensor by looking at my cousins 89 Si but i pretty much just guessed for the other five wires. Could this cause my car not to start?
2. Timing way off: Is it possible that i installed the distributor 180 degrees off? Supposedly there is some notch or something to prevent this from happening, but i was able to install it both ways. I put the #1 cylinder at TDC (i think) and put the distributor on when the rotor pointed to the #1 spark plug wire.
3. Main relay: This may or may not be it, it did start right before the swap.
4. ECU: I am using an 88 Integra auto ECU. Could it be a compatibility issue or can a bad ECU cause a car not to start?
5. Fuel line: Can i use my stock DX fuel filter to fuel rail hose on my new Si fuel rail?
6. Resistor box wires: Do the four red wires that power the injectors have to be connected in a certain order?
7. Unconnected sensor: I had a sensor on the Si manifold left unconnected. It is a sensor between the Air Intake Temperature sensor and the EAVC thingy. Does this have anything to do with it?
8. DX cap and rotor: Can i use the DX cap and rotor on the Si distributor?
9. Everyone talks about some ground from the distributor to the thermostat housing. I dont remember disconnecting any grounds.

I checked the fuses and double checked my wiring. I dont know what else to check. Please help me!

1) Ok, if you still had the 6 pin connector on the actual engine harness, you should have just taken the connector off of your DX dizzy and plugged the wires color-for-color in line with the ones on the engine harness. You would have just needed additional connections for the CPS. YES, if your dizzy is wired wrong, it could prevent your car from starting.

2) Yes, the dizzy could also be 180 out, just flip it to see. That's easy!!

3) Bad main relay is very possible...did you disconnect the battery while you did all the rewiring? There are ways to test it, check the link that someone provided you that had the online repair manual.

4) Yes a bad ECU could cause the car not to start....are you getting an ECU code? Not sure about the compatability part though.

5) The fuel line should be fine as long as there are not any kinks in it.

6) No.

7) I believe that the sensor on the Si manifold is the fast idle control valve solenoid and on the DX, it was the Tandon valve control solenoid valve. I switched the plug ends on my DX plug and plugged those wires into the sensor on the Si manifold. I don't have any codes, but it also does not throw a code if I unplug that sensor. So, not sure.

8) DX cap and rotor should be same parts.

9) I did not see any grounds when I did my conversion either.

My conversion fired up pretty much after cranking it over for a little while, but I do have a stumbling problem with WOT conditions. I also need to adjust my idle down some. Good luck.

peace
Griff

How would i know if im getting fuel or not? I pulled the spark plugs and they look pretty dry. When i connected the fuel lines, i used some new copper washers from pep boys, but the size didnt really match up. If the washers were blocking the fuel, wouldnt it have blown up by now? The fuel line isnt kinked or anything. The car doesnt throw any codes. I had the battery disconnected the whole time during the swap.

OK i checked some more stuff. The distributor was installed correctly...i even advanced and retarded the timing. The ECU flashes once right after the key is turned on, so the ECU is *probably* good. I think i hear the fuel pump come on. How important is the size of the fuel line washers?

I dotn know how you know if you are getting fuel or not. Thats what somebody said to me when I was doing my swap. I used the Si fuel line and it worked perfectly, dont know if that could be the problem. And you checked your dizzy since last time you posted right? A timing light might help they are only like $30.

I also believe you're going to have to find an auto civic EX ECU or use the integra distributor... but then once you get it started you'll still be running really rich... I suggest finding the EX ECU.

I played with my distributor some more to try to start it but it wont start. Im gonna try to change the main relay and see what happens. Ill keep u guys posted.

hey i had the same problem at first when i did my conversion, but come to find out that the plug wires were wrong..... i believe it goes 1-3-4-2 at the dizzy (clockwise), that fixed my problem, now my problem is my car idles at 3000 and when i give it gas it bogs hard..... but i'm also gonna check the main relay..... let me know how it goes

Everything else seams normal...wiring, firing order, etc., i think im probably not getting fuel. I might have put washers in the fuel line where i wasnt supposed to. I already ordered some new ones from the dealer. Does anyone have a diagram showing where washers are supposed to go where the fuel line bolts to the fuel rail?

now my problem is my car idles at 3000 and when i give it gas it bogs hard..... but i'm also gonna check the main relay..... let me know how it goes

When you changed to MPFI, Did you swap the wires on the TPS? The TPS works reversed on the Si from the Dx.... If you swapped the wires, check the voltage on the TPS to make sure it's good. I'm not sure on your distributor, but on the Si, I think it's supposed to read .5v closed & 4.5v @ WOT.

Everything else seams normal...wiring, firing order, etc., i think im probably not getting fuel. I might have put washers in the fuel line where i wasnt supposed to. I already ordered some new ones from the dealer. Does anyone have a diagram showing where washers are supposed to go where the fuel line bolts to the fuel rail?

Here is something you might find interesting. I did my MPFI swap about 10 days ago. When I did it, I could not use my Si injectors because they did not have any o-ring seals on them beacause I used the o-rings when I did a B18 swap into a CRX for a friend. Anyway, when I did my MPFI swap, I nabbed the injectors out of my ZC, the car fired up pretty much without a hitch. Fast forward to last night....new o-rings in hand along with Si injectors, took fuel rail off. blah blah blah. All back together and cranking the key resulted in....NOTHING. It would not start, it just cranked and cranked and never even acted like it was going to start. I thought I had no spark, checked my CPS plug because that was the only other thing that I unplugged. Well, I put the ZC injectors back in...it fired right up. So what I am telling you is to check out things, like maybe swap injectors with a friend that has a known running car. Swap dzzy's if you have not, etc... I just suggest that you do this before you start rewiring stuff again because that is when things start to get messy and really screwed up and ultimately frustrating.

peace
Griff