b18c5 forced induction ???????

hey just wondering if there is anyone out there with a b18c5 that is boosting more then 15psi. i know the type r can't hold much boost. i really want to turbo it or supercharge it. can it be done and if so to what extent and is it worth it?

Yep its been done, far over 15psi before. Its all about the tuning. I have heard of factory type r's being tuned for around 30psi before, lots of time and money into that. Why are you focusing on how much boost it can hold anyways, believe me it can hold it. Just depends on how deep your pockets are. Plus I am sure you are aware of the CR vs. PSI. Your b18c5 running 8 psi is going to stomp a b18c1 running say 12 psi.

Yep its been done, far over 15psi before. Its all about the tuning. I have heard of factory type r's being tuned for around 30psi before, lots of time and money into that. Why are you focusing on how much boost it can hold anyways, believe me it can hold it. Just depends on how deep your pockets are. Plus I am sure you are aware of the CR vs. PSI. Your b18c5 running 8 psi is going to stomp a b18c1 running say 12 psi.

Exactly. High boost is not necessary unless you have the dream of being a drag racer on the streets.

but i would think that the high compression wouldnt allow that kind of boost, unles your going to rebuild and drop it.

i hate this feeling i am starting to think i got the wrong fucking engine. it is the best engine for n/a i don't want to have too much boost just enough to hit about 300hp. i don't want to go over say 10. i know if i lowered the compression ratio i can boost. but wouldn't that take the point out of having a type r? :pimp:

just boost it, and have it tuned up the ass. You're going to need new pistons and rods and sleeves anyhow if you wanna up the boost, doesn't matter what engine you have.

if i just boosted it to no more then say 10 do you think i would have to tune internals?

i still think the b15c5 should stay na....even though that's just as expensive

if i just boosted it to no more then say 10 do you think i would have to tune internals?

not sure...10 psi is iffy even on b16's and b18c1's. I would at least use a block guard just in case, but then while you have your engine ripped apart, you might as well throw in some forged pistons, rods, and new sleeves, and screw the block guard...i guess it's up to you. And whatever you do, please, please don't use a FMU, you will definetely toast your motor boosting 10psi using a FMU on a C5

If you can, try to find SCC's 2002 ultimate car challenge. I think it was that year that there was a ITR that was running boost. Might want to see what he has done to his motor. I'd post his setup right now, but the mag is at home and I live in the dorms here at school......

i hate this feeling i am starting to think i got the wrong fucking engine. it is the best engine for n/a i don't want to have too much boost just enough to hit about 300hp. i don't want to go over say 10. i know if i lowered the compression ratio i can boost. but wouldn't that take the point out of having a type r? :pimp:

8 pounds of boost out of a middle of the road T3/T04E will make 300 WHP easily, with a good standalone.

hey gscivic7 i would really appreciate if you could put that setup up so i can get an idea of what i can do.
what do you guys think of hondata i hear it is really realiable

just like boosted331 said 8 psi on a t3/to4e would easily get 300hp and good tuning.
but if your worried about compression then use a thicker head gasket
people who use b18c5 for high boosted is just wasting money because a gsr with sleeves, pistions, and rods equal a type r with sleeves, piston, and rods, but the gsr is a lot cheaper.

hey gscivic7 i would really appreciate if you could put that setup up so i can get an idea of what i can do.
what do you guys think of hondata i hear it is really realiable

hondata = good shit, don't use any other kind of engine or fuel management.

i guess when i am done with the complete swap and run it at the track i will have a better understanding of what kind of potential the motor has my goal is to hit low 12's high 11's i will post some pics up probbly this weekend thanks everyone for your input it is appreciated. i post my time slips to and will chat about if and if it is worth it :smokin:

B18C5's will definitly hold boost. My Best friend has a civic hatch that he was running 11psi for about 6months. I don't think he ever had it dynoed but he ran 12's on street tires. He just spun a rod bering about a week ago. So he is putting pistons and rods in it since it's apart. I don't know why he's putting rods in it because the rods can take 400 tuned whp. By the way just my personal opinion, that little bastard is FAST. I call it the Noisy Crick :evillol:

B18C5's will definitly hold boost. My Best friend has a civic hatch that he was running 11psi for about 6months. I don't think he ever had it dynoed but he ran 12's on street tires. He just spun a rod bering about a week ago. So he is putting pistons and rods in it since it's apart. I don't know why he's putting rods in it because the rods can take 400 tuned whp. By the way just my personal opinion, that little bastard is FAST. I call it the Noisy Crick :evillol:
what kind of fmu is he running in that thing. you sure he is boosting 11psi on stock internals is that possible

You probally don't wanna here this but it is hard as a beotch to tune a B18C5 with boost no matter what fuel management you run. I was running moderate boost with mine and I blew out sleeve #4 right through the aluminum in the block itself( if you want pictures leave me a message ). First of all I thought I could get away with it with good tuning and RACE GAS ONLY. (You probaly don't have the money to drive around everywhere with 110 or higher cause that shit's expensive. I couldn't enjoy my car cause that's just to much for me.) And with compression that high and running boost that's your only safe option. Next the open deck design of honda's isnt good for high compression with boost. If your working on a small budget like most of us a DECK PLATE OR BLOCK GUARD that closes the deck is one of the best investment's you can make, and most reputable machine shops can install one rather cheaply. Next I would advise low compression piston's because detonation is your enemy. I wasn't even detonating though it was the compression that was just so much for honda's thin sleeves. I ended up cracking 2 inches of #4 on the thrust side of the cylinder bore, at the top were compression is the highest along with temp. Sorry for the story but I'm speaking from experience looK into a deck plate and lower compression. the up side you can sell all those used type-r parts.