Integra not running right

I 've had this problem for about a month or so and it it driving me nuts. Maybe someone could shed some light on it for me.

Here's my car:

'97 Integra LS, 3 Door, 5 speed
Excedy Racing Clutch
Excedy Lightened Flywheel
Type R Transmission
AEM CAI (one oiece)
Apexi N1 cat-back
MSD Wires

Here is my problem:

While driving at highway speeds (65 - 75 mph) in cruize or with the tach pretty much at a consisant 3500 rpm, the car will start to sound and feel like its decelerating. After a couple of seconds the car bucks back up to speed. This will happen quite frequently in a short amount of time. During this time I can hear the throttle body opening to let more air in (ECU compensating for a rich setting?). If I manually feather the throttle, it will keep at a constant speed. This only happens on the freeway after the car warms up. In city driving the car feels a little sluggish, but drives okay. I have also noticed while decelerating for a light after being at speed the tach doesn't sweep all the way down and rest at 750 rpm like it should, instead it drops to about 1000 rpms holds there for a few seconds then continues down to idle (are these related? could it be the engine is trying to burn off extra fuel before it goes to idle?).

My questions are:
1- What would be causing the car to buck like it does, and not come down to idle promptly?
2-What else should I try?

Here is what I have tried while diagnosing my problem(s) (not in any order):

Remanufactured distributer
New distributer cap & rotor
New Fuel pump
New Fluel filter
New Bocsh Universal Oxygen sensors - Primary & Secondary
New Catalytic Converter (as of this writing not yet installed, the catalyst from the oem converter was found to be cloged and removed from the housing and the housing placed back on the car)
New Nkg Plugs
Compression Test (195 psi #1,180 psi #2, 190 psi #3, 195 psi #4)
Swapped MAP sensor from a '94 LS
Tested EVAP Canister (ok)
Tested EVAP Purge solenoid valve (ok)
Tested PCV valve (ok)
Tested Fuel Pressure (ok)
Mobil 1 synthetic oil change with Honda filter

Using Autotap software:

Tested IAT sensor (ok)
Tested Coolant Temp sensor (ok)
Tested MAP sensor (ok)
Tested O2 sensors (ok)
Tested Throttle Position sensor (ok)

If any one can help me figure this out it would be greatly appreciated.

have u checked the throttle cable? it could be that the nut on the cable be loose or stripped causing a fluctuation in rpm's.

I also adjusted the throttle cable per the Helms manual, the nuts are nice and tight. Thanks for the sugestion, do you have any more?

Try getting some carb or throttle cleaner from you auto parts store. Clean you throttle body making sure to clean the egdes of the throttle plate itself. Sometimes if it doesn't get a good seal the idler motor works against itself. I also think that ou should clean your filter. If you have more symptoms please post them.

yes if there is more symptoms please post, its kind of hard to diagnose a car via internet :icon16: but really sound like a fuel problem as if something is clogged. from what i see, you taken care of most of the problems by replacing most of the parts. how many miles u got on the teg? have u tried a fuel system cleaner? my last resort should be to change the fuel line, maybe injectors, but this is only a 97 so all these should be working fine.

Here's what happened, I am pretty much just starting to build this car up, so I want to make sure every thing is in top order. I am the second owner of this car and when I got it, it was ragged on and possibly wrecked, I donno but, I got a good deal on it. thats why I am replaceing most of the parts. Any way, the ITR tranny is a new addition, while I was replacing the tranny I also wired in 2 new O2 sensors, well my wring job wasn't up to par. I double checked the connections for the O2 sensor, made adjustments as required and the car is better than ever. after all this work the car is real clean. its got 80,000 miles. This pretty much a project car so I'm trying to refresh it until I decide on other mods.
agian, Thanks a lot for the posts they were of help.

ok now thats more better, lets cross out the fuel problem since this approach would work well if your car was in its original form, but of course u did some swapping so this is a different ball game. heres a link to a guy who did a swap with a jdm b16 sir II and was having some problems with eratic idling and what he steps he went through. this could be quite useful, hopefully it helps solve the problem :icon16: http://www.hondaswap.com/articles/viewer.php?id=55