turbo qustion

which would be better. Adding a turbo to the sr20de or swapping the engine to the sr20det?

I believe adding a turbo will give you more performance at about the same price. I would add a SR20DET if my engine was shot.

I was of the impression it was better to change the engine. The DET has piston skirt oiling spray thingy's, lower compression pistons, higher volume oil pump (or so I'm told), different cams and oil return lines for the turbo. I've heard that the rods are bigger on the DET, but I've also heard that they're not - so who know's. Nothing you couldn't do to a DE engine, but just easier to bolt a DET in, I'd think. The clutch is bigger on the DET too (9 inch as opposed to 8.5, I think).

I would blot on a turbo instead of doing a DET swap if I had a 99+. The reason for this is because the Blue Bird or GTI-R engines are much older and you dont know what the people were doing to them before. I would only do a swap if I had high miles or my engine was dieing.

I agree with the point that an older engine might be less reliable, but I like the idea of having an engine purposely built for a turbo. The engine will not need any more building up. Basically, you don't have to worry about alot of excess engine work that you might have to worry about if you bolt a turbo on your existing engine.

Originally posted by apintojr
which would be better. Adding a turbo to the sr20de or swapping the engine to the sr20det?

That depends......

Originally posted by P10DET


That depends......


Well, if you can look at the engine before you buy it, you can check out what kind of condition it's in. Like how many miles it has, does the block look stressed.

Originally posted by Swonder67
Well, if you can look at the engine before you buy it, you can check out what kind of condition it's in. Like how many miles it has, does the block look stressed.

Depends upon a lot more than that.

BTW, what does a stressed block look like?

Look in this sub-forum for two threads....

"SR20DET's" and "How to choose the right turbo!"


Also, apintojr. which town in NJ are you from?

Originally posted by P10DET


BTW, what does a stressed block look like?

I mean things like cracks, corrosion. Mileage on the engine... Why you bustin my balls bro?

B-Boogie. townn of wack ass Kearny

Originally posted by Swonder67
I mean things like cracks, corrosion. Mileage on the engine... Why you bustin my balls bro?

Because your answer isn't helpful.

Unless the part has already failed, you're not going to see anything visually. Cracks are examples of parts that have already failed. Corrosion is not necessarily a sign of stress. In fact, on cast iron blocks (obviously not the SR20), a rusted block is actually stronger. I don't know the chemistry involved, but it's true.

BTW, how to you tell mileage of an engine by looking at it? You can't.

The bulk of JDM engines have roughly 40k or so miles on them and they were scrapped due to Japanese laws that make older cars worthless because they are so expensive to register. That is the reason for the large supply of JDM engines and other original parts.

Originally posted by apintojr
B-Boogie. townn of wack ass Kearny

I guess I would live in a wack ass town too!

I live in Kearny! :)


I drive the white G20 w/ the G20.net sticker on my windshield. I have my snowboard rack on top too for the winter (not that we're getting much snow) so I'm pretty easy to spot...

Originally posted by P10DET


Because your answer isn't helpful.

Unless the part has already failed, you're not going to see anything visually. Cracks are examples of parts that have already failed. Corrosion is not necessarily a sign of stress. In fact, on cast iron blocks (obviously not the SR20), a rusted block is actually stronger. I don't know the chemistry involved, but it's true.

BTW, how to you tell mileage of an engine by looking at it? You can't.

The bulk of JDM engines have roughly 40k or so miles on them and they were scrapped due to Japanese laws that make older cars worthless because they are so expensive to register. That is the reason for the large supply of JDM engines and other original parts.

His original question was what is better, bolting a turbo on to a DE, or swapping a DET. My origanal answer was with a DE, you know what to expect from the engine, because you own the car. But you'd have to do work to it so it can handle the power the turbo brings. My point with the DET, you don't know what to expect. You could get a great engine, or you could get a lemon.

Originally posted by Swonder67
My point with the DET, you don't know what to expect. You could get a great engine, or you could get a lemon.

Oh, I'll definitely buy that.

But, I think the original question absolutely cannot be answered because there is not enough information to draw a conclusion. I've been waiting to be asked "depends upon what?"

Originally posted by P10DET


Oh, I'll definitely buy that.

But, I think the original question absolutely cannot be answered because there is not enough information to draw a conclusion. I've been waiting to be asked "depends upon what?"

Ok P10det, Depends on what? :)

yo b -boggie u live just around the corner from me. i live on windsor. i just moved up here about a year

Just like to make an observation. Actually before I do, I best point out that I don't know who JDM is or what they do. However I'm going to make the assumption (which is dangerous I know) that they import Japanese engines.

In Oz, buying and installing imported engines is VERY common. I've purchased 3 (who could turn down an SR for $850 Aust??), thus far, with not a single problem. I also have many friends who have purchased engines (some FJ20Turbo's, which are much older than the SR) and again, in what is probably 20 engines purchased, I can only think of 1 which had any problems - and it was replaced by the importer.
I have to agree with P10DET in that you can't tell what sort of condition the engine is just by looking at it. However, the reputable importers over here test the engine on a test bench and give them a run up. Not a guarentee, but certainly a gauge of their condition. They also perform compression tests on each cylinder. So, assuming JDM operates in a similar fashion, you shouldn't have too much to worry about in terms of the motor.

Also, what P10DET said about rust on cast iron blocks is quite correct. In drag racing it's a well known practice to leave blocks out to weather. I *think* (ie I'm not sure) it has to do with the rust effectively surface hardening the cast iron.....it etches it. It may also reduce the porosity or the material (????) - could be WAY off on that......:)

JDM stands for "Japanese Domestic Market" it's not a company, just what we call japan spec engines. because the US doesn't have a DET

Ahhhh.....thanks for that! It constantly amazes me how different markets recieve different cars. One country gets something really good (Skyline GTR, for example), while other countries don't get it....it's a real bummer.

Did you guy's get the S15 Silvia (aka 200SX) over there? Awesome car.......

Originally posted by Group3J
Did you guy's get the S15 Silvia (aka 200SX) over there? Awesome car.......
SHUT UP! Thanks for rubbing salt in old wounds. :(

:cry:

Originally posted by Swonder67
Ok P10det, Depends on what? :)

Well, I'm glad someone was smart enough to ask! :D

Here are some of the things that have to be taken into account.

1) Power goals
2) Age and condition of the DE
3) Budget

For modest power goals, 250hp or less, if the DE is in great shape, it tends to be a better idea. If the DE is not in great shape, or has very high miles, a DET is often a better idea. One does have to be careful about buying a DET however. But, the thing that most often is wrong with DETs is also a problem with buying used market DET turbo set-ups. That problem is blow turbo bearings and/or seals.

For power goals above 250 hp, it can actually make sense to build a turbo SR20DE. Why is this? Well you pay a premium for the DET. What you get besides the turbo is sodium filled valves, low compression pistons, and piston coolers. By purchasing a DE core and rebuilding it for turbo duty, you can end up with a better engine for the same or less money.

JWT can drill and tap for the piston squirters. They can also supply the low compression pistons, either forged or DET cast pistons. For more than 250 or so hp, you must replace the injectors, MAF, turbo, manifold, intercooler, etc. Those costs add up. You can, of course, sell the components off the DET, but they sell for cheap these days. If I were going to build a turbo engine for over 250 bhp, I'd personally avoid the DET and rebuild a DE with piston coolers, low compression pistons, and some internal coatings. Remember, this is in contrast to building a big hp DET.

It is indeed possible to put 400 hp to the wheels of a stock internal SR20DE. It's been done a few times already. The choice here is up to the individual. I personally wouldn't try building a big hp turbo engine without first building the bottom end appropriately. But that's just me.

There are other factors as well, but this should give folks some real meat to chew on.