Stupid clicking.
PrinceSayianLS
10-22-2003, 10:35 PM
Zup all, Before I take my Teg to the shop I figured I would ask some people in here. When I barely press on the gas in my 98 LS there is a clicking sound coming from the engine. I am about 1000 miles past my oil change but it doesnt seem like a lack of oil thing. I dont know what it is and its driving me crazy :screwy:. Has anyone had this before? This is my first import but not my first car and I have heard a lot of noises on a car but this one is very weird. At higher rpms it doesnt click (like 1500 rpms) and after driving for a minute it stops completely. Help I m going mad :banghead:.
whtteg
10-22-2003, 10:57 PM
How amny miles are on the car? Could be your valves need to be adjusted.
tran_nsx
10-23-2003, 02:12 AM
98 is pretty new so it might not be this unless ur racing alot. i too heard some clicking in my car when i accelerate in the beginning then it stops after gaining some speed. the cause for me was the cv shafts. got them replace with some reman from autozone now they click when i turn. my inference, those were crappy parts. never again am i going to buy parts from them again. got some hi performance axles now and no clicking at all :icon16:
BullShifter
10-23-2003, 02:24 AM
You still should have your valves adjusted/inspected every 30K
PrinceSayianLS
10-23-2003, 02:30 AM
It has 89k on it and I have only been racing for 6 months or so. Before that I did a little street racing. I havent dont anything to my car but advance the timing slightly. Oh and I have not taken in the car for anyh maintances, think those things might be a problem?
Spectre927
10-23-2003, 02:43 AM
You still should have your valves adjusted/inspected every 30K
What does that run, and who would be the best qualified(the honda dealership, pep boys :loser: , any auto mechanic?) to do it?
What does that run, and who would be the best qualified(the honda dealership, pep boys :loser: , any auto mechanic?) to do it?
PrinceSayianLS
10-23-2003, 03:02 PM
Well I would think that any good import specialist would be able to do it or the acura dealer but you will pay out the a$$ for it :nono:.
whtteg
10-23-2003, 05:28 PM
If it has 89K miles on it then you need to go ahead and take it in for the 90K service and they will do it then b/c it is part if the 90k service, but I will warn you the 90k service is not cheap but very necessary they repalec the timming belt, water pump,adjust the valves adn some ther little stuff.
And tran_nsx what kind of axles do you have now b/c I have a set of autozone axles too and they vibrate b/c the rubber dampaner is not ther like the OEM ones, does your new ones have these? Do they shake and vibrate a little?
And tran_nsx what kind of axles do you have now b/c I have a set of autozone axles too and they vibrate b/c the rubber dampaner is not ther like the OEM ones, does your new ones have these? Do they shake and vibrate a little?
BullShifter
10-23-2003, 11:32 PM
What does that run, and who would be the best qualified(the honda dealership, pep boys :loser: , any auto mechanic?) to do it?
NO PEP BOYS - Valve adjustment should cost $100-$125 by itself @ the dealer - 1.0hr of labor + parts.
You should FOLLOW the maintenance schedule, this is what makes a GOOD long lasting car. Take it in for at least a 90K service, it would be best to do the timing belt, water pump, & belts - total cost is about $1000 @ the dealer.
If you do replace the timing belt, make SURE to replace the water pump or you'll be sorry when you have to replace it & pay all that labor again. Water pump with t/belt only adds .5hrs labor + parts. To do the water pump alone is like 4.0 hrs of labor + parts.
NO PEP BOYS - Valve adjustment should cost $100-$125 by itself @ the dealer - 1.0hr of labor + parts.
You should FOLLOW the maintenance schedule, this is what makes a GOOD long lasting car. Take it in for at least a 90K service, it would be best to do the timing belt, water pump, & belts - total cost is about $1000 @ the dealer.
If you do replace the timing belt, make SURE to replace the water pump or you'll be sorry when you have to replace it & pay all that labor again. Water pump with t/belt only adds .5hrs labor + parts. To do the water pump alone is like 4.0 hrs of labor + parts.
whtteg
10-23-2003, 11:43 PM
NO PEP BOYS - Valve adjustment should cost $100-$125 by itself @ the dealer - 1.0hr of labor + parts.
You should FOLLOW the maintenance schedule, this is what makes a GOOD long lasting car. Take it in for at least a 90K service, it would be best to do the timing belt, water pump, & belts - total cost is about $1000 @ the dealer.
If you do replace the timing belt, make SURE to replace the water pump or you'll be sorry when you have to replace it & pay all that labor again. Water pump with t/belt only adds .5hrs labor + parts. To do the water pump alone is like 4.0 hrs of labor + parts.
I do all my work myself and I would also suggest talking to the tech and seeing if he will replace the front crankshaft seal and the cam seals while he is already got everything pulled apart, only takes a min to do it and most of the time the tech will do it and not put in extra labor for it, just parts.
You should FOLLOW the maintenance schedule, this is what makes a GOOD long lasting car. Take it in for at least a 90K service, it would be best to do the timing belt, water pump, & belts - total cost is about $1000 @ the dealer.
If you do replace the timing belt, make SURE to replace the water pump or you'll be sorry when you have to replace it & pay all that labor again. Water pump with t/belt only adds .5hrs labor + parts. To do the water pump alone is like 4.0 hrs of labor + parts.
I do all my work myself and I would also suggest talking to the tech and seeing if he will replace the front crankshaft seal and the cam seals while he is already got everything pulled apart, only takes a min to do it and most of the time the tech will do it and not put in extra labor for it, just parts.
tran_nsx
10-23-2003, 11:54 PM
And tran_nsx what kind of axles do you have now b/c I have a set of autozone axles too and they vibrate b/c the rubber dampaner is not ther like the OEM ones, does your new ones have these? Do they shake and vibrate a little?
i got fenco street legal performance cv drive shaft. it consist of heavy duty outer joint, heavy duty shaft, yellow neoprene performance boots, high-temp grease, and are abs ready. that answer to the other question is no they don't shake or vibrate. these axles were 200 a piece which is pretty high but aren't too bad. i had another quote from a company who makes heavy duty shafts for honda, and they charge over $500 just for the shafts alone. the company said i had to buy oem joints and boots to complete the axles. i said hell no!
i got fenco street legal performance cv drive shaft. it consist of heavy duty outer joint, heavy duty shaft, yellow neoprene performance boots, high-temp grease, and are abs ready. that answer to the other question is no they don't shake or vibrate. these axles were 200 a piece which is pretty high but aren't too bad. i had another quote from a company who makes heavy duty shafts for honda, and they charge over $500 just for the shafts alone. the company said i had to buy oem joints and boots to complete the axles. i said hell no!
BullShifter
10-24-2003, 12:11 AM
Have you ever snapped an axle due to launching with slicks or big HP?
$400 is waste if you dont need them.
$400 is waste if you dont need them.
whtteg
10-24-2003, 12:33 AM
Have you ever snapped an axle due to launching with slicks or big HP?
$400 is waste if you dont need them.
I was asking b/c next year hopefully if time permiting I will have my whole bottem end built and head p&p and cams in and be on slicks runing a 150hp shot, so I think some new better axles would be a good idea, I hope to be looking at low 13's high 12's deepending on of I do get slicks or DOT drag tires, don't know yet for sure.
$400 is waste if you dont need them.
I was asking b/c next year hopefully if time permiting I will have my whole bottem end built and head p&p and cams in and be on slicks runing a 150hp shot, so I think some new better axles would be a good idea, I hope to be looking at low 13's high 12's deepending on of I do get slicks or DOT drag tires, don't know yet for sure.
BullShifter
10-24-2003, 12:51 AM
Nice, performance axles would be a very wise idea, traction bars as well. TCI make some nice "300HP" axles.
My buddy has a high 12 low 13 second hatch thats always snappin axles even on street tires. Mostly at the track due to the traction compound, you can't even walk on the track surface :icon16: . That dumbass made 4 runs in a row breaking an axle each time, not even making it to the 2' mark :grinno: Now with the TCI's & bunch of runs on slicks + the daily beating on the street, he hasn't replaced them since.
My buddy has a high 12 low 13 second hatch thats always snappin axles even on street tires. Mostly at the track due to the traction compound, you can't even walk on the track surface :icon16: . That dumbass made 4 runs in a row breaking an axle each time, not even making it to the 2' mark :grinno: Now with the TCI's & bunch of runs on slicks + the daily beating on the street, he hasn't replaced them since.
tran_nsx
10-24-2003, 03:49 AM
Have you ever snapped an axle due to launching with slicks or big HP?
$400 is waste if you dont need them.
no i haven't snapped my axle and neither do i want to. and for your information i got these axles for 3 really good reasons. 1--to replace the inferior piece of crap autozone call an axle. 2--these performance axles were a lot less then oem from acura. they charged over $400 per axle! if u don't believe me call up an acura dealer for price. 3--im prepping my teg for a stage 2 turbo kit, and once completed after modifications and tuning will be creating more than 300 hp which is my goal for the time being maybe more later.
so no $400 is definately not a waste. im the kind of person who rather be safe than sorry, and like to get things done right the first time, not half-a$$. hell most people who modifying thier cars, and im not talking about 5-10hp, but the huge gains aren't even prepping thier cars correctly, thats why incidents like what u mention happens. do you actually think im installing high performance axles and upgraded brake kits for show or to just waste money and look cool? :screwy:
maybe its just me, hopefully im wrong, but i get this really wierd vibe coming from your post.
$400 is waste if you dont need them.
no i haven't snapped my axle and neither do i want to. and for your information i got these axles for 3 really good reasons. 1--to replace the inferior piece of crap autozone call an axle. 2--these performance axles were a lot less then oem from acura. they charged over $400 per axle! if u don't believe me call up an acura dealer for price. 3--im prepping my teg for a stage 2 turbo kit, and once completed after modifications and tuning will be creating more than 300 hp which is my goal for the time being maybe more later.
so no $400 is definately not a waste. im the kind of person who rather be safe than sorry, and like to get things done right the first time, not half-a$$. hell most people who modifying thier cars, and im not talking about 5-10hp, but the huge gains aren't even prepping thier cars correctly, thats why incidents like what u mention happens. do you actually think im installing high performance axles and upgraded brake kits for show or to just waste money and look cool? :screwy:
maybe its just me, hopefully im wrong, but i get this really wierd vibe coming from your post.
BullShifter
10-25-2003, 01:17 AM
I'm just sayin' it's a waste of $$$$$$ if you dont need them now or for future upgrading.
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