JDM d15b vtec

I am looking at buying this motor from hmotorsonline for 700 shiped to my door. Around here they want like 700 for the d15b2. What a joke. So I was wondering what problems I might run into in doing this swap? I am getting the jdm d15b longblock with p08 ecu. any help would be much appreciated. thanx

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong... but...
If you're car is an Si or EX model, all you will have to do is get a wiring harness to convert from OBD0 to OBD1... if you have a DX, LX or STD model, you'll need to convert to MPFI first to use that ECU (assuming that's the stock ECU for that engine)

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong... but...
If you're car is an Si or EX model, all you will have to do is get a wiring harness to convert from OBD0 to OBD1... if you have a DX, LX or STD model, you'll need to convert to MPFI first to use that ECU (assuming that's the stock ECU for that engine)


Its going in a 91 std, that is the stock ecu. How much will the harness run me?

You do not NEED to go OBDI. It would be the same as using a D16Z6, in your pre OBD car.

If you go OBDI, you will use the z6 ECU, and wiring, etc. If you go pre OBD, then you will need to convert to MPFI first.

Also, I can beat that price by almost $150 for the D15B.

You do not NEED to go OBDI. It would be the same as using a D16Z6, in your pre OBD car.

If you go OBDI, you will use the z6 ECU, and wiring, etc. If you go pre OBD, then you will need to convert to MPFI first.

Also, I can beat that price by almost $150 for the D15B.


Is that with shipping and the ecu also? where is it coming from and is it reliable?

Is that with shipping and the ecu also? where is it coming from and is it reliable?



$525 shipped. No ECU though. Even if it came with the ECU, I wouldnt use it.

Yes, they are reliable, six month warranty, etc. We have put two in crx's here.

so kris... you have a shop or what? I'd like some prices on various engines.. do you have a website?

so kris... you have a shop or what? I'd like some prices on various engines.. do you have a website?


Not really an "official" shop. We are working on it though. Right now we just have a large garage we work out of.

But yeah, I do have a few business accounts with certain places, where I can usually get decent prices on stuff.

ohh man.....you make it sound like it is sooo hard.....the MPFI took me only a few hours to do it.....the you can use a b16 pr3 oir pw0 ecu....then you will be ready for a real engine

ohh man.....you make it sound like it is sooo hard.....the MPFI took me only a few hours to do it.....the you can use a b16 pr3 oir pw0 ecu....then you will be ready for a real engine


I'm sorry... maybe I missed it :screwy:
But did you say something intelligent or helpful to the topic at hand? :disappoin :gives:

Not really an "official" shop. We are working on it though. Right now we just have a large garage we work out of.

But yeah, I do have a few business accounts with certain places, where I can usually get decent prices on stuff.

That's a killer price for a D15B. I was gonna look into a B20 VTEC swap for my 99 DX this spring after I get my taxes and pay off some credit cards. I'd need everything, ECU, axles, mounts, the works. What kind of price could I get? I want to get an idea of what I'll be looking at in terms of $. Thanks!

$525 shipped. No ECU though. Even if it came with the ECU, I wouldnt use it.

Yes, they are reliable, six month warranty, etc. We have put two in crx's here.


You took too long i already ordered it. It was a good enough price for me anyways concidering what people want around here for a motor.

Why wouldn't you use the ecu? I am also going to turbo it after winter. Anybody's thoughts on turbo kits? Sorry for double posting.

Why wouldn't you use the ecu? I am also going to turbo it after winter. Anybody's thoughts on turbo kits? Sorry for double posting.
Because I like to keep everything pre OBD. :D

Because I like to keep everything pre OBD. :D


How well will the Si intake manifold set up to the D15?
And then would you suggest running an RPM activated switch to activate the VTEC, or get a VTEC/Air/Fuel controller?

How well will the Si intake manifold set up to the D15?
And then would you suggest running an RPM activated switch to activate the VTEC, or get a VTEC/Air/Fuel controller?


Well right now i have the d15b2 so i don't have the si manifold besides that running a rpm activated switch is half assed IMO. I would rather wire it right and use the already VTEC ECU. Then all of the fuel maps and everything will be how they are supposed to be.

I've got an Si intake manifold, distributor, and ECU sitting in my shop right now though... and a D15 on it's way to my shop.
The least wiring I have to do, the better.... everything I've read about converting to OBD1 looks like a pain the ass.

i once remember posting (about the rpm activated switch method) "its ghetto".

I stand by that statement, but now that i have the knowledge on chipping and tuning ECUs, there is nothing wrong with it. Load your ECU with the proper fuel and timing maps that are enriched for VTEc and use the rpm activated switch.

your right, the rpm switch is ghetto....yeah it turns the vtec on so your getting more air, but it doesn't increase the fuel like the ecu would so in a since your leaning it out.....try that with a turbo setup and you'll be buying a new engine.....
My personal opinion......if your paying more then 500 shipped for the d15b then your getting ripped off......and go with the hyperducktuning.com ecu......adrian has a program made just for the d15b......you can't beat it!

with buying stuff is that soon or later you find some one who bought the same thing cheaper.. like me D15b Vtec ( Complete engine & and wiring harness) for $514 shipped, then 2 days later i found same motor locally for $430 complete.. its frustrating.. and i picked up the p08 Ecu to match for 66 plus shipping ($127 total )

mike
[email protected]

......and go with the hyperducktuning.com ecu......adrian has a program made just for the d15b......you can't beat it!


you can beat it with a custom tuned ECU for what mods you have done to your car ;)

your right, and that's what adrian does. That's why I bought my ecu from him. By the way, you have your 1/4 times posted in your sig. What was your setup when you ran a 15.5?

hey killa! Speaking from experience, do yourself a favor and buy a conversion harness. I did it the old fashioned way and all the rumors are true! It is a major pain in the ass!

15.5@88mph

90 B18A1 (140k miles), HCP mounts, HP racing 4-2-1 header, ebay CAI, 2.5" crush bent exhaust, stock pr4 ECU, slammed on 175/70/13 bald steelies, hence the 2.388 60'.

seriously, with that setup i could've ran a couple 1/10s faster, but the track i drove to was almost 70 miles away and it was in the low 90s in temperature. I only got 2 runs in.

I should've been 15.3.

I don't feel so bad now....my suspension sucks so bad and is in so back of shape that my best 60 was 2.3. My wheels bounce more than a truck from the 90's with hydro's!!!! heheheh

hey what are the HP and TQ rating on the jdm d15???????????????

around 130/104 stock i think

128hp....I'm gonna have to double check torque but I think 104 sounds right.

The torque came out to abut 102 when I did the conversion, and yeah it is 128hp after the conversion.

if i was to get an si ecu and a apexi vafc would that work with the d15b? cause i thought it was 3 stage vtec...

or is there a better set up?

if i was to get an si ecu and a apexi vafc would that work with the d15b? cause i thought it was 3 stage vtec...

Nope it's your regular good ol' vtec.... just like the D16Z6.

Update: Now that college is out for winter break, I should be getting a lot more done on my car...
Today alone, me and my friend finally put our nose to the stone and got the old engine pulled out.... and next comes the fun part of rewiring.

Nope it's your regular good ol' vtec.... just like the D16Z6.
That's not entirely true, but yes in the OBD1 version it's just a plain old vtec. When they put them into the EK chassis it was a 3-stage, the 3-stage allowed for good power and awesome fuel economy, but I looked into replacing my ZC with the d15b, most of the motors you find from importers are going to be the ODB1 version, if your desire is power with less frustration, keep away from the OBD2 version of this motor. Now, for power, it is 130ps (Pfunde Stark, a power rating used in Europe and Japan now ~ .986 hp) so yes, a lot of places will say it's 130hp, but they are off by just a little (128hp was previously stated, and is accurate).

From other info I dug up, apparently the rods are pretty strong for a d-series motor, we're doing one soon in a customers car, we'll be putting in a block guard, and boosting it (and if I like how it runs after we tune it, then I may just do it to my EF :) )

I have heard that the rods are a bit stronger. I am probably going to boost as well, but I would like to find a stronger rod so that I'm not limited to minimal boost. By the way, your right about the obd2 and obd1. Honestly, I haven't ever seen the 3-stage for sale.

That's not entirely true, but yes in the OBD1 version it's just a plain old vtec. When they put them into the EK chassis it was a 3-stage, the 3-stage allowed for good power and awesome fuel economy, but I looked into replacing my ZC with the d15b, most of the motors you find from importers are going to be the ODB1 version, if your desire is power with less frustration, keep away from the OBD2 version of this motor.

Like you said... MOST motor importers that are getting this engine are getting the OBD1 version of this engine... the OBD2 version would still as yet be an extra request, and probably cost you more for the specialty of the item... and then probably wouldn't be worth the time and effort of putting in your car due to the extra cost... Also, unless you go through the pains of wiring up the OBD2 ECU (adding even more time and cost), you still will be using the OBD1 or OBD0 ECU's with two stage engagement or no engagement at all with out further aid (as with using the OBD0 ECU and an RPM switch or such.) As you said.