97 S-10 Electrically Challenged Starts

OK here is all I know about what is wrong with my 97 blazer. I bought the vehicle about two months ago with 137,000 miles on it. The ABS and Air Bag lights were on and I found out real soon that the gas gauge did not work. The vehicle has not been wrecked, it was just extremely dusty on the inside.

I had no problems for two months until I was driving down the interstate the other day. Things were fine then I set the cruise control. Shortly thereafter I notice the speedometer increase slightly like it was twitching. Over a period of 5 minutes it did it about 5 or 6 times. Each time it got worse with all the panel lights coming on and twitching really quick. The last time that it surged it was like someone turned the key off and back on as I could tell the truck lost power also. Thinking it was cruise control related I turned it off and had no other problems that day.

The next day I started the truck and drove it about 30 minutes and shut it off with no problems. Then I started it up drove it somewhere again and shut it off with no problems. The next time I started it up the truck went dead immediately, I restarted it and it died again. I restarted drove a few feet and it died again. This happened a couple more times and I maneuvered the vehicle the last time with no power down a hill and off the side of the road. Like each other time the truck started right up and thinking it was low on gas I drove straight to a gas station and filled it up with 10 gallons so it was not low on gas.

I went to start the truck and it would spin over but would not start. I kept trying until it was apparent and decided to roll it out of the way. I never heard the fuel pump prime at all. Well the floor shifter was locked in parked for some reason with the key on and my foot on the brake. I removed the shifter boot cover and unlocked the shifter and rolled it out of the way.

I replaced the fuel filter there and that did not help. Called a tow truck to get it home and when the truck got there I tried was last time and the fuel pump primed the truck started and I got it home turned it off and again it would spin over but not start. The next day I found the hot wire under the hood for the fuel pump and with 12v I heard the injectors but no pump. I decided to drop the gas tank (full tank by the way) and remove the fuel pump thinking I would hot wire it once I got it out. Well I broke one of the nipples on the pump taking it out so I ended up replacing it with a $500.00 plus OEM pump.

The good news is the gas gauge now works but I have the same problem. The pump will prime and the truck will start about once out of every 30 attempts. I also just realized that when I turn the key over no lights like check engine, air bag, abs, etc. illuminate except the times that the truck will start then I will turn the key over see all of the lights the fuel pump will prime and the shifter will be unlocked.

I hope somebody has some ideas. I have checked cannon plugs, swapped relays, checked fuses and pulled out my hair. Is it in the ignition switch? Please Help.

PC

I would think the ignition switch is on it's way out.Changing the switch should be a walk in the park compared to what you have done so far.

My ignition switch went out on my 97 blazer. Are your gauges coming on??? that what happen to mine they didn't come on. It is kind of a hassel to change the switch but well worth it. Autozone switch was around 30 bucks verus chevy anround 150.

Thanks guys! You have a great forum here!!!!! I am out of town now but when I get back home I think I will try that switch.

Yep I think the gauges do not work as well. Did your ride spin over but not start with that bad switch?

Any other ideas are appreciated.

PC

The ignition switch is a common problem with the symptoms you describe.
I would feel confident that replacing the switch will cure your problems.

Thanks for the help! Switch was $39.00 from the Zone. Not too hard to replace. I was able to do it without pulling the stearing wheel off.

Until next time...

PC

Thanks for the help! Switch was $39.00 from the Zone. Not too hard to replace. I was able to do it without pulling the stearing wheel off.

Until next time...

PC
Can you explain how you did it without pulling the strearing wheel. Mine is out as well but I have an air bag to fight with if I pull off the stearing wheel. I have basicaly alot of new stuff on my truck now such as starter, every single fuse and relay, Battery and all cables both negative and positive, I even bought a new ecu trying to figure out what is going on. I'm gonna try the swith next. Thanx

Wesley

Sure! All you GM professional mechanics please don’t laugh at my rudimentary instructions.

Remove negative terminal from battery

Remove air bag fuse

Remove lower panel from under dash with a Torx bit and I think a 7mm socket to get all the screws. You can just let it lay down with the parking brake and power outlets still attached.

Find a yellow jacket wire under the steering column that has a label on it for the air bag.
Disconnect this wire for safety.

Remove the two Torx screws under the lower steering column cover.

Remove the tilt lever by pulling it straight out.

Drop the cover.

Find and remove two screws that hold the upper cover on. They use like a “reverse torx bit” ?? Not sure what they are called.

OK here you have a bridge to cross. To remove that top cover either figure out how to remove the black portion of the key switch (part you turn with your fingers and key). I could not figure it out so I made a notch in the plastic about a half-inch wide. This will allow you to slide the top cover up.

With the wheel tilted all the way down stick out your tongue, push on the dash, twist, push, cup, roll, tweak the top cover off. Start with the left side, get it wedged up and work to the right. Took about two minutes for me.

Disconnect the harness from the big plug, cut some wire ties, and disconnect the two blocks of accessory wires that are connected to the ignition harness. Remove screws that hold the switch on and you are set.

That part that you cut out off of the cover will be hidden when you put it all together by that peace of rubber under the key switch. You could also epoxy it back. You can also buy a Haynes book, it sucks (what I have) or a Chiltons book if you can find one. It would probably be a better choice of the two, and remove the steering wheel by following the directions for air bag removal. The Haynes book directions were stupid though and I forgot to rent a wheel puller from Auto Zone so I did without.

Your choice. Like I said it is possible to remove the wheel it was just easier for me not to.

Good luck!

PC

What chapter of the Haynes (or Chilton's) manual talks about removing the air bag and the steering column? I couldn't find it in my Haynes manual. I'm probably looking in the wrong spot.

Thanks,
-- recurve