b16a PROBLEMS!!!! HELP ASAP

1st thing i need to know what my compression is supposed to read in each cylinder i was told between 175 and 230 was GOOD the tester is showing all 4 cylinder's at 150!!!!???

2nd thing if thats true and im supposed to be 175 to 230 what is wrong? i was told it can be bad piston rings also that it could just be my vavles are fucked and i need them re adjusted????

any ideas or responses would help THANKS!!!


also should i be driving the car???

bump.... please give me some INFO!!!!!!!!!! ASAP

I've seen lots or cars give all kinds of different compression readings. If you have a newer manual (whatever maker) you will notice that they don't even put compression numbers in anymore. I was told as long as your cylinders are within 15%-20% of each other, you are in good shape. If you have even numbers across the board then you are good. See some people test cranking the motor while depressing the gas all the way and some just crank the motor. I just crank and mine were 230-225-230-230, showing that #2 has a little more blowby going on, but still in great shape now (especially after boosting 10psi on stock internals for 2 yrs)

but is 150 in each cylinder low for a jdm b16a? just curious also i was going to readjust my valves since i have never done that just curious on if 150 in each cylinder is low or bad for a b16a engine... its a 1994 b16a

If its a 94 and has never been done before then you should def check valve clearances. I really wouldn't worry about the numbers so much as the differences in cylinders. If yours tested 150 and mine at 230, we have the same motor, so since my cars runs good, then yours wouldn't hardly run. If you have even tests across the cylinders then you are in good shape. When you get something like 150-150-90-150, then start to worry. Just think about it, what are the odds that all four cylinders would have the same compression if your rings were leaking. If you have ever blown a motor or seen someone who has, you will see that 8 times out of 10, one clyinder goes, not all them at once.

so then this is why my b16 doesnt run very strong.... like it should but what is making my compression be so low at 150????

Im not psychic. I'm just saying that if you have 150 across the board, then chances are you internals are alright. You say it doesn't run strong? Was it ever running stonger or is this just put in the car. Some people get dissapointed after swaping a b16 because of all the hype, its only like 140 something whp. You rings should be fine because it is very unlikley that all you rings leak equal, just not a common thing. Look into somthing else. Look for loose sensors, vac leaks, ignition components, etc. Also, if you had bad rings you would be burning oil. So if you don't really see alot of smoke, your prob in good shape.

ok kool... NO i dont get not even a little smoke... it never smokes AT ALL.... my ignition timing is retarded though? could that be a problem also my head gasket is leaking could that be a problem.... and my vavles need to be adjusted... could all this make the compression low?

Dude, I would totally disregard the whole compression thing right now. Yes if your ignition is retarded, it will make your car sluggish, why would you retard the timing. The only you really worry about that is if you are FI, hell most people advance NA motors a little. You valves will rob power if not adjusted right although if they are really off then they usually make a clicking sound. If your headgasket is leaking I'd recommend you replace it asap. You might be leaking coolant with your oil if its bad, also car tend to smoke (usually light colored) when a headgasket is leaking but no always. If you know for sure it is leaking then replace it.

it cam retarted and yes the valves are bad the do click alot.... and yes i know for sure my gasket is out... ive allready bought a new one.. but dont have 250 to pay someone to install it

i meant my timing came retarded.... also curious on this.... wat does it cost to replace a head gasket and is it a hard thing too do??? i was quoted 300 for the labor on replacing it

tonite i adjusted my valves they were too tight... then did the compression test on each cylinder and now they are all 210 from 150 all the way up too 210... so is that good now??? should i have gained ppower back ?

So you got 210 across the board, thats good. Like I said, when indocating piston damage, the numbers aren't as important as if they are even. If the timing came retarded, then at least set it back to stock. Having timing retarded will kill your power. For the HG, how mechaically inclined are you? It isn't too bad to replace, just a little time consuming. If you can adjust the valves by yourself then you can change this, it just requires some patience. But for prices, $300 sounds about right just for labor.

yeah i will prolly try and do the HG my self eventually... also we turned back the distributer to normall then we advanced it a little bit and after advancing it the car feels more sluggish off the line... maybe should i advance it a little bit more???? untill i start to hear pinging then i know ive went too far rite?

If I were you, I'd just leave the igntion timing set at stock. It isnt worth killing a motor to pick up a couple of horses.

how can you blow the eingine buy just advancing the ignition timing?

how can you blow the eingine buy just advancing the ignition timing?

Detonation it is the fastest killer of your motor.

but u would hear the pinging and stuff and know to turn back the timing... thats what im saying

We know what you're saying, but think about this: You cannot ALWAYS hear pinging (detonation) even sometimes in severe cases. Tuning by listening for detonation is a bad idea, the first time it pings, you are putting strain on the motor. You you want to advance the timing that badly, do it on a dyno where you can monitor your air/fuel the right way. Also, that motor has a knock sensor and if it is hooked up, it will retard the timing anyways when it hears knock. My suggestion to you would be: 1. Leave it at stock 2. Do it on a dyno.

We know what you're saying, but think about this: You cannot ALWAYS hear pinging (detonation) even sometimes in severe cases. Tuning by listening for detonation is a bad idea, the first time it pings, you are putting strain on the motor. You you want to advance the timing that badly, do it on a dyno where you can monitor your air/fuel the right way. Also, that motor has a knock sensor and if it is hooked up, it will retard the timing anyways when it hears knock. My suggestion to you would be: 1. Leave it at stock 2. Do it on a dyno.

:iagree: 100% timming changes should be left to people who know what they are doing, beleive it or not alot of damage can result from to much timming advance. Just leave it stock, you won't gain that much anyways.