Ecu

anyone have any idea where the ecu is on a 93 int LS???? i jsut got a chip for it and cannot find the damn thing.

found it under the passenger kick panel

hat kind of chip did you get? You really have to be careful there are some chips flouting around (ebay) that will slowly destroy your motor.

i got it from some company out in cali. it came to me just as some chips, one of the chips had skunk written on it. i had to solder this myself! i quickly found out that i do not know what i am doing. so when i finally went to test it out my check engine light came on and i could not rev my car over 3000rpm!!!!!! so does anyone know of a good place to go to get a reliable chip????

i got it from some company out in cali. it came to me just as some chips, one of the chips had skunk written on it. i had to solder this myself! i quickly found out that i do not know what i am doing. so when i finally went to test it out my check engine light came on and i could not rev my car over 3000rpm!!!!!! so does anyone know of a good place to go to get a reliable chip????

lol :lol: some funny sh*t

yeah, my friedn got one off ebay for like 5 bucks and it said that vtec would kick in at 4k, but what it really did was give fuel cut at 4k. his plugged in though.

What has happened is that you have either soldered two or moe pins together on the Eprom chip or one or more of the pins are not making contactIt is hard to solder in the chips or sockets because the pins are so close together. Here is how you fix the idle. Take the jumper wire out that you soldered in, this will tell the computer that it needs not read the chip. If it goes back to normal you are in good condition. Then get a magnifing glass and check all the soldering connection and make sure they are correct. Also check to see if you burned up any traces, hopfully you did not b/c that is a pain in the rear. Try these things and see what happens.

does it only go up to 3k when you're sitting or does it do it when you're moveing too. if its just when you're sitting they put a drag launch in it. basically means you can only put it up to 3k when your sitting so you sit there pinging the dang tach then drop the clutch it'll let it self go past when you start to move. just wanted to make sure that wasn't it.

Ok here's the deal your computer is in "safe mode" this is to prevent damage to your car when one or more sensors fail or read out of spec. This also can be caused by incorrectly installing a "performance chip". First check to make sure you didn't burn up the dam thing(check for burn marks on the chip) also check to make sure the indent is lined up the same direction as the stock chip as to make sure its not in backwards) second check every solder joint to make sure it is shiney in color(not a cold solder joint) with no pits or holes. If all of this is correct and or complied with ;we need to further troubleshoot the problem. I've installed half a dozen of these chips with great success so I'm sure they work and will definitly give you a great deal of hp as i have seen but they must be installed correctly.

a little tip for you... next time, try to find you a spare ecu on ebay (hopefully it will work when you get it) and use it to do your chip swap. go to radioshack and by a socket for it, the one that matches the number of pins on the chip. have a computer service place, or electronics shop for that matter, install the socket into your spare ecu. then, take your chip and plug it in! this way, if you have a bad chip, all you have to do is buy a new one and replace it!

btw- make sure to check the spare ecu in a stock configuration b/f installing a new chip or socket. this reduces the chances of an ecu failure later on.

later

damn, apparently i had held the soldering iron on one of the prongs alittle too long. i found out that heat transfers very quickly through those little prongs. LOL. damn this is a hella way to learn. but my ecu is doing fine after i had clipped the jumper out. everything is fine. but thnx for everyones input. i've got to order another one now. time to wait another week :,( but are skunk chips any good? and do they offer a noticable increase in hp? and are they worth it?

there is a big question mark on the integrity of that skunk sticker... i would not get too excited about the name... but more on the specs of the ecu. it matters most what the red line is set to, how the fuel maps have been modified, any timing changes correlating to the eprom, etc. I have a "Mugen" chip, which probably has nothing to do with Mugen of Japan, but the red line was the key for me. I needed to be able to hit 8500 with no problem and this chip allows me to go to 9000! I noticed a big difference in the way my car ran after the install though! It was like I was missing something very vital to my car, and then *bam* it all came together with a little $20 chip. I would say be ready for it... b/c you will see a nice gain if you have decent mods.

right now ive got a 93 int LS hatch with an AEM cold air, a greddy MX cat back, and i went ahead and ripped out the cat and stuck in a straight pipe. man taking the cat out made a big difference. i have played a tweaked with it alot and cleaned the engine out real good. ive got to replace the valve seals though. smokes just alittle bit. not enough to really notice. but the guy that sold me the chip said that the new red line would go up to 9200. im not sure if these engines can handle that much though. what is a good place to stop? i know that mine right now cuts off at 7k, boooo. but now, i just have to wait on the new chip.
ha, and the sticker that was on the chip was written in pen. so, i won't swear by the skunk name the was on there LOL

i would guess that you will build power to about 7500 and then it will start to trickle off, but with your valve seals leaking, you may not want to rev too high. the only reason i take mine high is because i strengthened the valve springs and retainers, but i still am cautious b/c my piston rings are fried...

my advice is to take it slow until you fix the seals... and maybe strengthen the valve train. if not, you risk bending a valve, and that would suck!

yea i had a buddy of mine check out the engine and said the rings seem to be in good shape. but he did also say that i need to upgrade the springs. which im glad is not too expensive. btw nice site. i now live in FL but was in Tulsa still have family there

9200 is too high for a stock valvetrain. The stock valves aren't stiff enough to keep up with the cam or crank at that speed, and you'll get valve float and then something might hit something else and you'll be in a lot of trouble.

OK this thread has gone from bad to really bad! Don't rev past 7k with the stock cams and stock valvetrain. You will be doing nothing but wasting time reving that high on stock cams, they do not make power that high you will hit peak hp about 6600 rpm. With the stcok valve springs you risk valve spring bind from the high rpm and this will caus ethe valve to contact the piston and then new motor or rebuild. Also don't waste your money on the chip it is a terrible way to chip a ecu, you need to have a chip programed for your car and your car only! you can find people to do this for you locally, i had a guy do mine and it cost $50 to have it programed, and he programed it with a egt gauge which is not the best compared to a wideband but alot better than just changing fuel and ignition tables, without knowing how the motor is reacting to it. Every motor will react different to changes, b/c not everybody lives in the same elevation and everone does not have the same exact mods and everyone does not have the same cylinder compression ( talking about a compression test b/c some ppl have more worn rings than others) etc etc. Also to rev above 7800 -8000 rpm you will need a girddle for the main caps to keep everything in place. And you will end up wearing your piston rings out quickly too, the r/s is not extremely bad but bad enough to cause extra wear on the rings and the cylinder walls.

woa, guess just keep it at 8k. all im really looking for is more hp. trying to figure that out from a $20 chip will be a surprise for me. i guess this means i just need to upgrade the engine. damn, that will be one at a time. thnx for the help guys.

You should get some basic bolt ons first(sorry if you said u have them and I missed it). Build up your engine before you wrry about that stuff

Ok first off the skunk2 written on the chip probably indicates its running a skunk 2 fuel/timing map. Now second any blank eprom chip can be programmed to run any program you like mugen,spoon,hondata,skunk 2 ect...
each chip has a different setup ie , redline,fuel/timing map ect... now as for taking you engine above the stock ecu's 7100 is not recommended unless you have built the motor to take that kind of abuse ie valve springs retainers, high quality balanced pistons, cams ect... The point is the stock internals weren't mean't for that kind of abuse. Ok but back to getting a chip for your own car you can install any of the chips I listed before although they might not be set up for your climate/altitude. They can be programed or adjusted to work for your climate/altitude by many nowadays any performance shop should have the ability to do so. They will however give you more horespower if installed correctly although you will sacrafice gas mileage. whtteg has pretty much covered everything I just said just thought I'd put in my 2 cents. :iceslolan