o2 Housings

Can i port out my t-25 o2 housing, and use it untill i get everything i need to put my 14b on, and then use the t-25's housing on my 14b? Cause i am trying to build my exhaust for my GSX and i know that you will get a bad case of boost creep unless you port the o2. oh yea on another note the RRE dp for the 2G fits both t-25 and 14b correct?

Can i port out my t-25 o2 housing, and use it untill i get everything i need to put my 14b on, and then use the t-25's housing on my 14b? Cause i am trying to build my exhaust for my GSX and i know that you will get a bad case of boost creep unless you port the o2. oh yea on another note the RRE dp for the 2G fits both t-25 and 14b correct?

Yes you can port out your stock 2g 02 housing, it's the same thing as a 1g. As is your exhaust manifold. Get your turbo/02/manifold ported at the same time when you upgrade your car/exhaust. As far as I know the exhaust bolts up just the same. I've got a 1g so I'm not 100% positive.

Rob

hey thanks for the help, more replies welcome.

do i really need to port out everything on my turbo, or would just porting my O2 housing be sufficient. i have my 14b sitting on the bench waiting to go on, but i need a little more cash first to get a RRE "hacker/tweeker" kit. so i wanted to put my exhaust on my stock 2g. but i know i need to port the o2 to prevent boost creep. so would just this suffice untill i get enough cash to send my 14b off to have the port work done, and get the install kit for it. also i have a 1G exhaust mani. is there a difference between it and a 2g. if not i will just send it to be ported and take my 2g off with the t-25. thanks for the help. :bigthumb:

The o2 housing plays a much smaller role in boost creep than people realize. But 2g and 1g O2 housings are the same as far as bolt up goes. Some people think hte 2g is superior because the WG runner is slightly larger, but I dont like the fact that they moved the O2 sensor to the merge point, which will actually increase your chance of getting creep. When I put a 14b on my 2g a couple years back, I couldnt get boost below 22 psi. Heres what I did.

Read the porting vfaq. Port the WG exit area as Tom S mentions. This is the single biggest factor in boost creep (Even an external dump tubular Os housing, on a stock turbine housing, will creep just as bad, I tried it). Use the 2g turbine housing to O2 hosuing asa guide. Then once that is ported out to the gasket (and shped as tom recomends) pu the gasket on the o2 housing, and match it to the turbine housing work. You cant have a lip in that direction, but in the oppsosite direction its ok. Just remember that anything that impedes ehaust flow through the WG will increase creep. Then cut down the divider on the other side of the O2 housing, in an effort to help gasses get around that poorly placed O2 sensor. Bell port the O2 housing outlet if you're in the mood. I had to go bacj in a couple times to get it low enough, but I got down to 16 psi before I even touched the flapper hole.

And avoid larger flappers at ALL costs. Use it only as a last resort. Force = pressure x area. Larger flapper, same exhaust pressure, equals the flapper being blown open and limited boost capabilty. I couldnt get my 16g to stop dropping from set 25 psi, to 19 psi by redline. I wired the 34mm WG flapper shut, and it held 25 psi to redline (I was actually controlling boost with a manifold mounted external). ;)

Also remember that you can remove the turbine housing with theturbo still in the car. Just undo the DP, unplug the o2 sensor, and udo the band clamp that holds the turbine housing to the center cartridge. I used to go from jacking up the car to porting in less than 10 minutes. SO dont worry if you didnt get boost low enough on the first try. Until you get experienced its better to not take off too much material, and have to go back in again. ;) Good luck.

i have no experience doing port work at all, what tools would be needed, something i should try??? or is $75 a fair price to have RRE do the work for me? or is there a danger there of not getting the boost low enough?thanks.

Porting is shitty work, butits easy enouhg. You just have to look at how the gasses would like to flow through it easily, and make it so. You need a die grinder first. Air ones are 20 bucks, if you have a compressor. You can also get electric ones, but I'm afraid they are closer to 100 bucks if I remember correctly. Next you need a carbide bur. Go to McMaster.com, burs and rotary files section, and get a 1" by 1/2" cylindrical double cut radiused end bur, and/or a similar sized "pointed tree" for tightspaces. They're like 10 or 12 bucks each. Get some safety glasses, cover up well, and go to town. Those chips are NASTY so beware. Read the vfaq, its all I had when I started out ;)

You can certanly send stuff to RRE, but then you have dowtime while it all ships, and while I dont doubt their work at all, there is the chance it may not be enough for your car. If you do it yourself, you can always go back in and do some more. Your call.

thanks for the reply, i guess i will get some cash and go buy a die grinder, i have a 1G and 2G o2 housings, backups :thumbsup: so i guess i can print out a vfaq and get to work thanks.