8psi ...

is 8psi too much boost for my stock B16 to handle ?

Well, I'm soon to be turbo b16 as well. From what I've been reading, I'm plannin' on 5psi on the street and 7psi for the track on my b16. You're runnin' boost on an engine that wasn't meant at all for turbo. So you gotta keep the boost low if the engine is stock 'cause 8,000rpm + 8psi is a whole lot of force pushin' down on those skimpy stock rods.

It could handle 8psi, but it has to be tuned properly.

what fuel management are you using and what intercooler as well...

I'll tell you what, a B16 with FI pistons and aftermarket rods WHOOPS ASS with a turbo and can easily take 12 Psi daily (16psi is cool but then your starting to push it on the stock sleeves) The small bore and awsome RS geomitry make it a much better engine to boost then the Gsr/B20's there are realy only two honda engines that come close F20C (No parts) and the B18C5/B16B which are an expensive version of almost the same thing... the typeR C5 is stroked and has a 1.75 RS (Perfect!) but for the extra $3000 you can do all kinds of stuff.
Anyway, thats my $0.02.

The small bore and awsome RS geomitry make it a much better engine to boost then the Gsr/B20's

The B16's bore is identical to the GSR.

Oh, and since when do you start talking good on B16/B18/B20.. remember your ZC can OWN ALL SLOW B16S

:uhoh:

High compression is good for turbo if yu just get it tuned right.

The B16's bore is identical to the GSR.

Oh, and since when do you start talking good on B16/B18/B20.. remember your ZC can OWN ALL SLOW B16S

:uhoh:

What the fuck are you talking about retard?
First of all, the bore is the same size on a type R motor. So lets think (Use your brain now) IF THE BORE IS THE SAME SIZE, AND ONE IS A 1.6L AND THE OTHER IS A 1.8L WHATS DIFFERENT?! Thats right you fucking moron, the stroke is different... Like I said in my first post, dont even pretend you know more about motors then I do fuck face.
Second of all, my zc can own most b16's, because I put lots of money into it... Because I have dedication and earned it. I learned how to work on cars by aplying myself not sitting around on the internet pretending like I know what I am talking about.
Lastly I am buying a B16 pretty soon, and the only thing I have against the b16/b18 is vtec... Its fucking retarded and it was desighned for little ricer boys like you so you will buy hondas.

Ps, the GSR has a larger bore, the B16/b18c5 are 82mm and the gsr has a 84.5mm bore.

I have a nice BIG FMIC spearco I think... for fuel managment I will be using a Walbro 255lt/h Fuel Pump, AEM Fuel Rail and FPR, and 450cc Injectors.

I plan on running a stock Ignition for the time being with the exception of my Zex spark plugs.

why I ask about 8psi is that my wastegate will come with a 8psi spring in it.

thanks

P.S. I do plan on putting in some rods and Pistons but we will see what the $$$ situation is like this winter.

Kun

http://members.rogers.com/dlsp/intercooler.jpg

I dont forsee a problem as long as the pistons and rods go in before the turbo system does... Those injectors are huge for just 8PSI by the way... 370cc would be more than sufeciant, I hope you have a VAFC or something to controll them.

once the Rods and Pistons go in (probably 8.5:1 or 9:1 cr) I will run 14-17lbs with a block guard.

going 450cc because I can get them real cheap from a buddy.

once the Rods and Pistons go in (probably 8.5:1 or 9:1 cr) I will run 14-17lbs with a block guard.

going 450cc because I can get them real cheap from a buddy.

My sugestions are 1. Dont go lower that 9.0:1, 9.5:1 is your best bet, on aftermarket pistons and rods there realy is no point in going lower that 9.0:1 unless you plan on going BIG (20+Psi with lots of flow) 2. Stay as far away from that block gaurd as possable, I dont car if you are running a CR of 5.0:1 you will still have detonation on 8PSI with one of those POS. They heat up the cylinder tops and cause the cylinder to get hot and then you get detonation, talk to larry at endyn about block posting, its a much better alternative, or if your broke and have big nuts you can do it yourself (Use a titanium dimond edged bit)
3. Lastly but not least get something to controll those injectors an V-AFC will do and you can usualy find them on ebay for $200-250 shiped.
Seth. :2cents:

are you able to keep your ac. i'm trying to figure out how i can keep my ac because here in tx its hot as hell. i have a b16 also with a t3/t4 hybrid turbo. i need all the help i can get

1. I don't have A/C

2. I will be getting an apexi VAFC

I'll tell you what, if someone told me there motor had a block gaurd in it and it was a daily driver I would run a duck for cover from exploding engine pices!
Trust me man, those things are for drag race only... If you are going to be using the motor for a couple minutes at a time they arent THAT bad (Still no gude imo)

Just keep your stock compression or bump it up a lil. You'll get more hp to the ground then with someone with high boost. Just tune it right and get upgrade fuel. Higher compression less turbo lag.

First of all, the bore is the same size on a type R motor. So lets think (Use your brain now) IF THE BORE IS THE SAME SIZE, AND ONE IS A 1.6L AND THE OTHER IS A 1.8L WHATS DIFFERENT?! Thats right you fucking moron, the stroke is different... Like I said in my first post, dont even pretend you know more about motors then I do fuck face.
Second of all, my zc can own most b16's, because I put lots of money into it... Because I have dedication and earned it. I learned how to work on cars by aplying myself not sitting around on the internet pretending like I know what I am talking about.
Lastly I am buying a B16 pretty soon, and the only thing I have against the b16/b18 is vtec... Its fucking retarded and it was desighned for little ricer boys like you so you will buy hondas.

As i said, the bores are identical. and OBVIOUSLY, if they had identical bores, the stroke would have to be differnent IDIOT.

VTEC was designed for fuel economy and high performance, along with a stable idle. If you have two identical engines, one vtec and one non vtec, with identical cam lobes (on the VTEC lobes for spec of course), the VTEC engine will run better as well as be quicker in the lower rpms. the same goes for V8 engines. this is why v8 engines with large cams have to have a high stall converter.
Oh, and if you're getting a b16, then you are a "little ricer boy" because, everyone knows, when honda was designing the VTEC engine, they all sat down and thought "now what can we do to make little ricer boys buy our engines".

dont act all high and mighty becuase you read some forums loser :loser:

As i said, the bores are identical. and OBVIOUSLY, if they had identical bores, the stroke would have to be differnent IDIOT.

VTEC was designed for fuel economy and high performance, along with a stable idle. If you have two identical engines, one vtec and one non vtec, with identical cam lobes (on the VTEC lobes for spec of course), the VTEC engine will run better as well as be quicker in the lower rpms. the same goes for V8 engines. this is why v8 engines with large cams have to have a high stall converter.
Oh, and if you're getting a b16, then you are a "little ricer boy" because, everyone knows, when honda was designing the VTEC engine, they all sat down and thought "now what can we do to make little ricer boys buy our engines".

dont act all high and mighty becuase you read some forums loser :loser:

Caugh Caugh... Bullshit... Caugh Caugh.

http://www.cranecams.com/import/images/ferrea3a.gif
What you are saying is if I used two identical cams (Not stock cause they dont work with these) and a vtec engine and see wich one layed down more power... The vtec engine would have more? Your so full of shit its coming out your mouth and spilling over onto your keyboad... And you want to talk about bottom end? Fuck you idiot, some knarley as camshafts and a sick rollers like these Idle @1200-3000 RPMs Or MORE depending on what you are trying to do with it... Realy, tell me about bottom end...
You obviosly dont know shit, secondly, if you jamed the vtec pins on a stock B16 it runs like a bat out of hell, I know someone thats done it and it was insane, sure it idled @ 1400 mps and was still a little rough, but as far as the motor is concerned that is the new "Bottom end" You think the motor is some kind of living organism with a set idea of were the "Bottom end" should be? Come on man, think outside the box...

big cams are bad for low rpm power. if you dont know this obvious fact, you are the unintelligent one here.

You obviosly dont know shit, secondly, if you jamed the vtec pins on a stock B16 it runs like a bat out of hell, I know someone thats done it and it was insane

If it ran like a bat out of hell just using the VTEC cam, why do so many people, Honda included, say that the best activation point for VTEC is around 5000 rpms?

That is the best ACTIVATION POINT, if your not activating vtec there is no activation point...
As far as bottom end and how terrable big lobe cams are for the "Bottom end" you obviously didnt read a sing god damn thing I was just saying...
So, I will explain it to you again.
If you motor IDLES Between 1500-RPM's and 2500-RPM's were is your bottom end?
Dont be stupid and say "uhh its between 800 and 2500 Rpm's"
Also, if its so stupid and sucks so bad why do all the top all motor guys toss Vtec and grab some high lift camshafts.

I'm not trying to be an ass or anything HONDABOND, but I don't see how it is different to activate VTEC around 1500-2500 RPM, which most Honda drivers never drop below while driving anyways, or having the VTEC cam permanently engaged and having 1500 RPM for an idle point.....I guess my question is if the high lift lobe on a VTEC cam is good above 2500 RPM, which it seems like your saying, why is it made to activate so high in the high performance factory Honda production engines?

Fuel economy, noise reduction and a bunch of other legal crap i can do without... :sly: