heard something about a b20.....

I remember reading something in a post a long time ago about someone's friend doing a b20 swap (isnt b20 the crv engine?) I went online and saw some for only about 1k is that about normal Are they really that fast? I see that they have about 130 fl/lb
what do yall think??? <<<yes, im from alabama :icon16:

sorry to take so long to post but yes the B20 is a CRV engine. i wouldnt just do the CRV swap alone, you need a VTEC head (B16,B18C) and obviously thats called CRVTEC. If you need anymore info, just ask.

my friend who did the swap totalled his car last week and is selling the swap if you're interested... engine and tranny. And you don't need the VTEC head. He doesn't have it and he had torque like anything.

my friend who did the swap totalled his car last week and is selling the swap if you're interested... engine and tranny. And you don't need the VTEC head. He doesn't have it and he had torque like anything.


How much is he wanting for it? Let me know please

yea dont get me wrong, you dont need it, but w/o it, the car wont be all that quick.

uhm..... yeah it is... as quick as a stock VTEC model, but with more top end speed.

is the vtec head a direct swap? what about weight and wireing isues? i would love more info on this setup as i'm looking to do a swap.

As long as you get a B-series head, it should swap without problems. B16A3, B16A2, or B18C1 are your best options for VTEC heads since they flow very well and are reasonably easy to find. But it's not necessary. You can run without VTEC and do other things such as turbo, nitrous, build the engine internals, etc.

The wiring and sensors may be a little different for the B20 motor from the one you're taking out. You also need things like the axles and ECU from the motor. If you do a VTEC head, then you'll need a different ECU if your engine is not VTEC and the B20 ECU is not capable of managing VTEC either.

My roommate's B18B eats me alive and it's not VTEC. He's got a lot more torque than me though with some bolt-on's.

o.k. what about the trans? i take it that any b series trans will work? can the trans from the crv be used and just remove the rear driveshaft? i am also still wondering about weight issues as i'm thinking it may be to heavy. is there a rightup anywere on this convertion?

CRVTEC Turbos own...my lord do they own...i know a guy where i live with a 92 hatch with a CRVTEC turbo and he runs 11.9...torque out the ass too...not too many times do u see a honda with monster torque :naughty:

I want that swap, let me know how much he wants + shipping... does it have wiring and ecu?

Swap is halfway gone.. if his buyer doesn't go through with it then I'm buying it and making it into a little project for the winter. Mmmm turbo b20.

Im running a turbo setup on my stock d16 non vtec and was thinking of doing a swap. At first was thinking about LS turbo, so i bought a LS engine with no tranny.. at the moment im at a stand still until i find a good deal on a tranny. Now i'm more interested in a b20 does anyone have any good build up b20 sites i can visit? Im currently checking into it also, but any more info would help. I'd like to know if a b20 will fit 96 dx hatchy straight across or if i need new mounts wiring harness etc. I think a b20 turbo wouldn't have to have vtec head does it?

From what I've heard, VTECs and Turbos don't mesh well. They run on different compressions and to a point, work agaist each other.... My advice, if you're going turbo, don't do a VTEC head, and don't make the car your daily driver. My understanding of it is this:
A turbine (attached at the exhaust manifold) spools exhaust up and shoots it through an intercooler, where it's cooled a littled and mixed with air. From there, it's fed into your intake manifold. common sense says that's not good for the engine.... Which is why, to maintain a healthy turbocharged vehicle, you have to rebuild it every 50 or 60K miles. If any of my info is wrong, discount me as an idiot and feel free to correct me.

In my opinion:biggrin:, if you do a porfessional job installing your turbo and do everything correct (not Jimmy-riggin:icon16:) then i dont see how you would need to do a rebuild that often if at all. There are cars that are factory turbo and the problems they have most often are with the turbo, not the engine (with the known exception of the 4g63 which is, as i understand, notorious for crankwalk:evillol:).
There is nothing wrong with having alotta air in your engine if you have set up your engine to do so. Ya cant just slap a turbo on there, jack it up to 10 psi and say, hey, thisll last forever:screwy:. You have to prep. That is all there is to it.
IMO if you go turbo, you would do well to get not only I/H/E but Fuel regulator (pressure) ECU (your engine is gonna wanna act funny im sure if it s a honda) id even ( IMO) get new fuel rail and injectors, hell, why not get new intake man while your at it. :naughty: (there are many things ive not mentioned also)
I HAVE HEARD that you CAN put a lil turbo on there and run like 6 psi with no probs on a stock engine....I still wouldnt do it... Once more its just my opinion:sunglasse

Im running a turbo setup on my stock d16 non vtec and was thinking of doing a swap. At first was thinking about LS turbo, so i bought a LS engine with no tranny.. at the moment im at a stand still until i find a good deal on a tranny. Now i'm more interested in a b20 does anyone have any good build up b20 sites i can visit? Im currently checking into it also, but any more info would help. I'd like to know if a b20 will fit 96 dx hatchy straight across or if i need new mounts wiring harness etc. I think a b20 turbo wouldn't have to have vtec head does it?

The B20 is the smae motor as the B18B except the B20 has a larger bore. The outside of the motor is the same size and you can interchange the parts from the B18B and the B20 except for the pistons.

From what I've heard, VTECs and Turbos don't mesh well. They run on different compressions and to a point, work agaist each other.... My advice, if you're going turbo, don't do a VTEC head, and don't make the car your daily driver. My understanding of it is this:
A turbine (attached at the exhaust manifold) spools exhaust up and shoots it through an intercooler, where it's cooled a littled and mixed with air. From there, it's fed into your intake manifold. common sense says that's not good for the engine.... Which is why, to maintain a healthy turbocharged vehicle, you have to rebuild it every 50 or 60K miles. If any of my info is wrong, discount me as an idiot and feel free to correct me.

some of the things u said were incorrect, so i'll try to help u understand how it works. first of all a turbine doesn't spool exhaust, it's the other way around, exhaust spools the turbine. what happens is exhaust comes out the exhaust manifold and into one side of the turbine forcing it to spool which it then exits out. on the other side, the spooling fan sucks in air and compresses it (forced induction) into the intercooler (if u have one) than into the intake manifold, exhaust and air are never mixed to be reuse again. if given good care, a turbo can last over 100,000 miles, but it's reccomended to be replaced at or before 100,000 miles due to natural wear and tear. lastly, if a turbo is install and tuned correctly this can be use just like any other daily driven vehicle, the difference now is that it's faster :icon16:

In my opinion:biggrin:, if you do a porfessional job installing your turbo and do everything correct (not Jimmy-riggin:icon16:) then i dont see how you would need to do a rebuild that often if at all. There are cars that are factory turbo and the problems they have most often are with the turbo, not the engine (with the known exception of the 4g63 which is, as i understand, notorious for crankwalk:evillol:).
There is nothing wrong with having alotta air in your engine if you have set up your engine to do so. Ya cant just slap a turbo on there, jack it up to 10 psi and say, hey, thisll last forever:screwy:. You have to prep. That is all there is to it.
IMO if you go turbo, you would do well to get not only I/H/E but Fuel regulator (pressure) ECU (your engine is gonna wanna act funny im sure if it s a honda) id even ( IMO) get new fuel rail and injectors, hell, why not get new intake man while your at it. :naughty: (there are many things ive not mentioned also)
I HAVE HEARD that you CAN put a lil turbo on there and run like 6 psi with no probs on a stock engine....I still wouldnt do it... Once more its just my opinion:sunglasse

Ok, when you boost a motor, you obviously need more fuel to reach. This is why most turbo kits include a high flow fuel pump and bigger injectors. If building your own kit, you will of course need bigger injectors and in some cases a pump too. Just how big depends on how much boost is being run. There is no "header" when you turbo. This is replaced with the turbo manifold, through which the exhaust exits the motor, and spools the turbo like trans_nsx explained on it's way out. A new exhaust system with properly sized piping for the turbo set-up is a must have. You are not going to run a turbo on a stock sized exhaust piping. The intake is replaced with a turbo system also. The new intake goes to the turbo, which compresses the air as it spins, it flows the comperssed air through the intercooler, and to the intake manifold, basically. A intercooler is always a good idea. A turbo spins extremly fast, and it being spooled by hot exhaust doesn't help keep things cool. This heat is transfered to the air being compressed. Now, you get 1% more HP for every 11.1 degree's you lower the intake temp (since cold air is more dense). An intercooler cools this super-heated compressed air down to am uch cooler temp. An intercooler can cool the air by as much as 100 degees in some cases. This cooler air helps keep the motor happier and helps lessens the risk of detenation, and also produces more power. It's always smart to get a missing link or similar, or some kind of fmu. Something to manage the fuel and help the ecu with the fact that there is a turbo on the motor is needed. You won't have a happyu turbo or motor with it...period. For moderate amounts of boost, the stock fuel rail should be fine, no need to get a new one there unless you are boosting the motor to the stratoshpere. As for the PSI a stock motor can take. It depends on the motor. The LS has the strongest block. It can handle up to 12psi on stock internals. By contrast, 8psi is pushing it on a GSR or B16A, and 6psi is a safe level for the H22 and F22. When boosting a motor, know what your motor can take. On stock internals, the B20 can't handle as much as the LS without crackig the sleeves. Due to the bigger bore and a few other things, it can not take as much boost, despite being a simlier block. It is not as strong a motor. I belive that 8psi should be fine on that, I know 6psi should be. Still, the LS is the only motor than can handle 12psi. I guess the point is, that you can boost above 6psi, you just have to know the how much boost you can run on stock internals for the motor. Like I said, 12psi for the LS, not above 8psi (pushing it) for the GSR and B16A, 6psi for the H22 and F22, and around 6-8psi for the B20. If you are running more boost than that, or just are worried about cracking the sleeves, closing the deck willl help prevent that from occuring. If you run more than the "safe" amount for a motor, this is something you must do when building up the internals.
Also, when you have a turbo'd motor, you need to let the motor run for a minute or two while parked after driving before turning it off, to let the turbo proper col down. Failier to do this later can starve the turbo of oil and drastically shorten it's life. Or, get a turbo timer, this will automatically keep the motor running for the proper amount of time after the ingnition is turned off to cool the turbo down. There's also a built is safty, so no worries about someone jumping in the car and driving it away, that can't happen. If it is messed with, the motor dies. If you go FI, a turbo timer is recommended.