photo etching

I have just started and learned how to make my own photo etch parts but how do you get them to have nice clean edges??
and how do you get the cuts straight please let me know??

Have you tried warming your etching solution? Heating the solution gives you a faster "cut", therefore your parts aren't setting in the solution as long and allowing it to attack your resist.

I use a double boiler set up but I've heard of people using an ordinary aquarium heater.

What are you using for a resist?

I am painting the etch side with black permanent marker!Have you tried warming your etching solution? Heating the solution gives you a faster "cut", therefore your parts aren't setting in the solution as long and allowing it to attack your resist.

I use a double boiler set up but I've heard of people using an ordinary aquarium heater.

What are you using for a resist?

I am painting the etch side with black permanent marker!
Yeah, there ya go . . . Even though the marker can be used as a resist, there are still thin spots and streaks that will diminish even further in the etchant, This why you end up with jagged edges.

Try using a different resist such as nail polish, dry tranfers or photo-resist.

what is photo resist?? sorry for the dumb question but thats the first time Ive heard of it!
and also what is dry transfer Ive heard of that but not sure what it is??
thanks for all your help support and tips!!Yeah, there ya go . . . Even though the marker can be used as a resist, there are still thin spots and streaks that will diminish even further in the etchant, This why you end up with jagged edges.

Try using a different resist such as nail polish, dry tranfers or photo-resist.

In conventional photo etching process, the photo resist coated metal sheet is a exposed to the light, and that exposed areas will protect the bare metal from the etching solution. In your case, the permanent pen is working as if it's the photo resist. I've done the same, and it worked well. I also heated the etchant as Lambo003 suggested.

Dry transfer is also called rub on decal. You place a logo or pattern on an object, and gently rub the career film over the decal. After, the decal is transferred to the object, you remove the career film. They are mostly numbers and letters in various font and size, and you can find it at stationary stores. Or, if you take your own image to a print shop, they can make a custom dry transfer for you.

what do you suggest to use to heat the solution??

Probably the easiest route would be the aquarium heater.