Help! Wheels locked up?
dales
09-25-2003, 01:56 PM
Greetings! Am looking for help with my wife's 1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD. We purchased a new car over 2 months ago, and haven't been using her car (we plan to sell it).
Yesterday she tried to take the car to work, but it wouldn't budge. You can put the car in forward gears and in reverse, but when you press the gas pedal, it "squats" as if its trying to move...but the wheels are locked in position. (I tried when I got home...she's right, it won't budge.)
The emergency brake is off, so...any ideas? Thanks in advance,
Dale
Yesterday she tried to take the car to work, but it wouldn't budge. You can put the car in forward gears and in reverse, but when you press the gas pedal, it "squats" as if its trying to move...but the wheels are locked in position. (I tried when I got home...she's right, it won't budge.)
The emergency brake is off, so...any ideas? Thanks in advance,
Dale
Prpul90
09-25-2003, 02:39 PM
Will it roll in neutral ??
dales
09-25-2003, 04:02 PM
Nope -- doesn't roll and couldn't be pushed while in neutral either.
Will it roll in neutral ??
Will it roll in neutral ??
BluFalcon
09-27-2003, 02:29 AM
It's possible the car sat for so long, that the emergency brakes seized onto the rotor, or the caliper is stuck and won't release. If the calipers are stuck, you won't feel any resistance when you pull up on the emergency brake handle. My friend bought a 90 AWD that had this problem. We had to pull the wheel off and replace one of the calipers on the passenger rear wheel. Have you had any issues with the transmission? Problems shifting, unusual noises etc.?
Prpul90
09-29-2003, 09:56 AM
Ditto on the Emer. Brake cable.
turboawdgsx
10-02-2003, 11:41 AM
That's what I was thinking, if it's squatting, one of the rear brakes isn't disengaging. Try that out.
Rob
Rob
boosting20psi
10-25-2003, 11:36 PM
my car did the same thing and it ended up being the trasfer case my car would not budge so i had to replace it. let me know if you need a transfer case i can get one for pretty cheap
Talon007
10-26-2003, 01:46 AM
Yeah I would second the T/C problem. Go check the fluid in it, if its dry, guaranteed thats the problem.
Your lucky it didnt lock up the wheels while crusing on the highway.
Your lucky it didnt lock up the wheels while crusing on the highway.
DSM-Owner
10-26-2003, 02:40 AM
if you have ABS then it could be a ABS sensor problem, but i dont think you do. Could be in your master cylinder. Loosen the 2 nuts securing your master cylinder to the brake booster. After that see if the brakes are still locked up. If they arent then the problem is in your brake master cylinder.... :smokin:
Talon007
10-27-2003, 08:20 PM
I highly doubt it is a brake master cylinder problem. All it is is a diaphram, and it works off the difference of manifold vacum and atmospheric pressure.
DTalon
01-11-2004, 09:58 PM
eyy every1 i juss purchased a ''92 eagle talon TSI front wheel drive, all i relle kno is the timing belts gone on it. The main probelm im having is after i towed it back 2 my drive way i shifted it into neutral and attempted to move the car.....WOUDLNT BUDGE....so i got 5 guys 2 help me still no go...i was tempted 2 use my moms ford explorer 2 give it a lil tug since ryte now i cant get it started do 2 a dead baterry...n even if i did it woudltn mateer cuz the timing belts shot..
when we ateepnted 2 push the car i notcied that the bac tires were slidign on the snow while the front tires were actually turning...
so in order 2 get the car in my gaarge i jacked up the back end n we pushed from the front..this worked pretty well..but i sitll dnt kno y the rear wheels arent Turning...NE suggestions??????
when we ateepnted 2 push the car i notcied that the bac tires were slidign on the snow while the front tires were actually turning...
so in order 2 get the car in my gaarge i jacked up the back end n we pushed from the front..this worked pretty well..but i sitll dnt kno y the rear wheels arent Turning...NE suggestions??????
MrZ
01-12-2004, 06:09 AM
dales:
Sounds like the rear brakes to me too. Here's a thought, jack up the front corner of the car (either side will do) and see if you can turn the tire. Next do the rear. They should both turn, even if the car is in gear. This is because you have both a front and rear differential. So, if both tires turn, it would indicate the transfer case is the problem. If the front turns and the rear doesn't, it's the emergency brake.
The emergency break is actually mechanical, and you can use a hammer to tap the lever on it back if it is stuck. That is assuming the cable isn't frozen.
Mark
Sounds like the rear brakes to me too. Here's a thought, jack up the front corner of the car (either side will do) and see if you can turn the tire. Next do the rear. They should both turn, even if the car is in gear. This is because you have both a front and rear differential. So, if both tires turn, it would indicate the transfer case is the problem. If the front turns and the rear doesn't, it's the emergency brake.
The emergency break is actually mechanical, and you can use a hammer to tap the lever on it back if it is stuck. That is assuming the cable isn't frozen.
Mark
MrZ
01-12-2004, 08:03 AM
dales:
I was thinking more about this on my way to work. To be sure, you need to check both back wheels. Either of the two could have the caliper locked. All it would take is for one wheel to be locked for the car to behave the way you describe. If they both turn freely, then I would look at the transfer case. If one turns but the other doesn’t, it is probably just the caliper stuck, and you should be able to free it by tapping the lever (you’ll see the cable attached to it) with a hammer. If both back wheels are locked, it is possible the cable is frozen, and that will be a bit more difficult. Someone else mentioned that you will feel it when you pull the emergency brake handle, and they are right. If either of the calipers is locked you will feel no resistance when you pull the handle up….it would probably behave the same way if the cable is frozen.
Just one comment on the emergency brake. I’ve been driving standard transmissions for over 27 years now, and I remember reading in my owners manual many, many years ago that you should avoid using the emergency brake in freezing weather. I personally rarely ever use mine at all, in fact, the only time I use it is when I’m working on the car. All other times I just leave the car in gear when I shut it off.
Mark
I was thinking more about this on my way to work. To be sure, you need to check both back wheels. Either of the two could have the caliper locked. All it would take is for one wheel to be locked for the car to behave the way you describe. If they both turn freely, then I would look at the transfer case. If one turns but the other doesn’t, it is probably just the caliper stuck, and you should be able to free it by tapping the lever (you’ll see the cable attached to it) with a hammer. If both back wheels are locked, it is possible the cable is frozen, and that will be a bit more difficult. Someone else mentioned that you will feel it when you pull the emergency brake handle, and they are right. If either of the calipers is locked you will feel no resistance when you pull the handle up….it would probably behave the same way if the cable is frozen.
Just one comment on the emergency brake. I’ve been driving standard transmissions for over 27 years now, and I remember reading in my owners manual many, many years ago that you should avoid using the emergency brake in freezing weather. I personally rarely ever use mine at all, in fact, the only time I use it is when I’m working on the car. All other times I just leave the car in gear when I shut it off.
Mark
DTalon
01-13-2004, 10:30 PM
eyy well i juss finished workin on the car b4 i got ur reply thanx 4 the advice n i took off the 2 back tires but i found there was resisitence when i pulled up on the hand brake, takin the back tires off was a real experience i had to kick them several times b4 they came loose when i finalyy got them off we saw the problem....The caliper was literally seized/ RUSted right onto the rodder n i coudlnt get it off....so basically there was no pad AT all.......so i had 2 take the rodder off with the caliper still stuck 2 it...which took quite a while once i did that i found that the bearing turned freely...so i dont think its ma tranfer case which is good looks like i need new back brakes...2morrow im goin 2 check the front one1 out...they look ok but wont kno 4 sure till i get the tires off...thanx again
Also the timing belt shot on ma car would u suggest a new engine or rebulid the engine with a new timing belt, valves and head gasket??
dales:
I was thinking more about this on my way to work. To be sure, you need to check both back wheels. Either of the two could have the caliper locked. All it would take is for one wheel to be locked for the car to behave the way you describe. If they both turn freely, then I would look at the transfer case. If one turns but the other doesn’t, it is probably just the caliper stuck, and you should be able to free it by tapping the lever (you’ll see the cable attached to it) with a hammer. If both back wheels are locked, it is possible the cable is frozen, and that will be a bit more difficult. Someone else mentioned that you will feel it when you pull the emergency brake handle, and they are right. If either of the calipers is locked you will feel no resistance when you pull the handle up….it would probably behave the same way if the cable is frozen.
Just one comment on the emergency brake. I’ve been driving standard transmissions for over 27 years now, and I remember reading in my owners manual many, many years ago that you should avoid using the emergency brake in freezing weather. I personally rarely ever use mine at all, in fact, the only time I use it is when I’m working on the car. All other times I just leave the car in gear when I shut it off.
Mark
Also the timing belt shot on ma car would u suggest a new engine or rebulid the engine with a new timing belt, valves and head gasket??
dales:
I was thinking more about this on my way to work. To be sure, you need to check both back wheels. Either of the two could have the caliper locked. All it would take is for one wheel to be locked for the car to behave the way you describe. If they both turn freely, then I would look at the transfer case. If one turns but the other doesn’t, it is probably just the caliper stuck, and you should be able to free it by tapping the lever (you’ll see the cable attached to it) with a hammer. If both back wheels are locked, it is possible the cable is frozen, and that will be a bit more difficult. Someone else mentioned that you will feel it when you pull the emergency brake handle, and they are right. If either of the calipers is locked you will feel no resistance when you pull the handle up….it would probably behave the same way if the cable is frozen.
Just one comment on the emergency brake. I’ve been driving standard transmissions for over 27 years now, and I remember reading in my owners manual many, many years ago that you should avoid using the emergency brake in freezing weather. I personally rarely ever use mine at all, in fact, the only time I use it is when I’m working on the car. All other times I just leave the car in gear when I shut it off.
Mark
MrZ
01-14-2004, 08:41 PM
DTalon:
I think you need to consider a few things before making a decision.
First, how many miles are on the car? Are you the original owner? Does it burn any oil? Is it a turbo? How do you drive it? By this I mean, do you drive it hard, or do you only occasionally give it a work out? When you say the belt is shot, does the car still run? Did the belt break or slip, is there any chance you bent any of your valves? How much money are you willing to sink into it?
Just the fact that the belt is shot tells me the car has some miles on it, probably close to 100,000, yes? If it's a non turbo, and it hasn't been driven hard, and it doesn't burn oil, I would recommend checking the compression, and as long as it's ok, just take care of the timing belt. I never recommend to anyone to only have the head done on a high mileage car, particularly if it has been driven hard, or you plan on driving it hard. If it's a turbo, and you aren't the original owner, assume it has been driven hard, unless you have good reason to believe otherwise.
Mark
I think you need to consider a few things before making a decision.
First, how many miles are on the car? Are you the original owner? Does it burn any oil? Is it a turbo? How do you drive it? By this I mean, do you drive it hard, or do you only occasionally give it a work out? When you say the belt is shot, does the car still run? Did the belt break or slip, is there any chance you bent any of your valves? How much money are you willing to sink into it?
Just the fact that the belt is shot tells me the car has some miles on it, probably close to 100,000, yes? If it's a non turbo, and it hasn't been driven hard, and it doesn't burn oil, I would recommend checking the compression, and as long as it's ok, just take care of the timing belt. I never recommend to anyone to only have the head done on a high mileage car, particularly if it has been driven hard, or you plan on driving it hard. If it's a turbo, and you aren't the original owner, assume it has been driven hard, unless you have good reason to believe otherwise.
Mark
DTalon
01-16-2004, 08:30 AM
dales:
Well the car has 167 thousand Kilometers, n i kno 4 a fact im at least the 3rd or 4th owner i suspect the car has bin driven hard, the wheels seem to be worn down on the drivers side only....ive never driven it myself yet béc i juss purchased it, im not sure if it burns oil or not id have 2 get it started 1st,,,,a mechanic in my family suggested i try to manually crank it 2 c if it turns this will tell me if it did any damage 2 the valves.
The car is a turbo front wheel drive, so i prett much assume its bin driven hard n the las owner juss gave up wit putting money into it.
Dom
Well the car has 167 thousand Kilometers, n i kno 4 a fact im at least the 3rd or 4th owner i suspect the car has bin driven hard, the wheels seem to be worn down on the drivers side only....ive never driven it myself yet béc i juss purchased it, im not sure if it burns oil or not id have 2 get it started 1st,,,,a mechanic in my family suggested i try to manually crank it 2 c if it turns this will tell me if it did any damage 2 the valves.
The car is a turbo front wheel drive, so i prett much assume its bin driven hard n the las owner juss gave up wit putting money into it.
Dom
MrZ
01-16-2004, 02:00 PM
DTalon;
Based on the mileage and on the assumption the car has been driven hard, my opinion is that you really need to pull that motor and have it gone over by a good shop. I say gone over, because you don't necessarily have to go into it expecting a full rebuild. It is possible that your crank journals are good, and maybe even the bearings on the bottom end are still ok, but you don't know that until you look at it and measure it all up. I always recommend this work be done by a good shop, they have the tools and the experience. You can pretty much count on having the cylinders honed, maybe bored, new rings, wrist pins, etc. Again, you won't know exactly what you'll need until you get it all measured up and checked. It goes without saying that the head should be done if you're doing the bottom end.
I don't know what your financial situation is like, but it is worth the investment to have the work done. You definitely want to have a strong foundation to build on, the last thing you want to do is restore power to a tired bottom and top end, and end up throwing a rod, or spinning a bearing, etc. Not only would that be expensive, but I actually had this happen to me many, many years ago (I threw a rod) while racing someone, and damn is that humiliating! The other guy was laughing his ass off!
Mark
Based on the mileage and on the assumption the car has been driven hard, my opinion is that you really need to pull that motor and have it gone over by a good shop. I say gone over, because you don't necessarily have to go into it expecting a full rebuild. It is possible that your crank journals are good, and maybe even the bearings on the bottom end are still ok, but you don't know that until you look at it and measure it all up. I always recommend this work be done by a good shop, they have the tools and the experience. You can pretty much count on having the cylinders honed, maybe bored, new rings, wrist pins, etc. Again, you won't know exactly what you'll need until you get it all measured up and checked. It goes without saying that the head should be done if you're doing the bottom end.
I don't know what your financial situation is like, but it is worth the investment to have the work done. You definitely want to have a strong foundation to build on, the last thing you want to do is restore power to a tired bottom and top end, and end up throwing a rod, or spinning a bearing, etc. Not only would that be expensive, but I actually had this happen to me many, many years ago (I threw a rod) while racing someone, and damn is that humiliating! The other guy was laughing his ass off!
Mark
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