balljoint probs

Alright my boyfriend fucked up my balljoint on the left side, i dont know much about it except how its like stuck in and if you hit the screw hard or something it pops a lil out and gives like an inch or two of room to play and vibrate and be really gay when im driving, he doesnt know how to fix this, does anyone know, do u have to get it machine pressed????

FIX IT SOON!!! i got in a wreck because of a balljoint coming outta socket.

to take the old lower balljoint out, just take your knuckle off and stand it upside down and whack the stud on the balljoint with a BFH (big f**kin hammer) itll come out, if that seems like its not working, put a lot of penetrating oil on it, and try again after awhile. ive always been able to get the old ones out that way, but if it stil wont come out, seek out someone with a press. you might be able to rent a balljoint press at autoparts stores, but the last time i rented one it only helped for taking the old one out, and when i tried to flip it around to press the new one in, it wouldnt clear the top of the knuckle.

if its the upper, the whole arm has to be replaced $85
lower u can just take it to a shop DONT DRIVE ON IT!!
if its the upper take it out then FINALLY u can see how the camber kit goes in

give me a call

is the upper in the engine compartment, i wasnt paying attention to much but i think he hit the screw type thing he was putting on the camber kit so i dont know if that classifies whether or not it was the upper of lower

uh oh ive been driving on it for...4 days and i do a lot of driving

you can take it to a shop... Or you can just bring it over to my house. I can take a look at it and see what it needs and do the work to fix it for cheap...
Im always honest about what needs to be done no matter how cheap/expensive parts are and I never "Half ass" Greg could probably be there to help if you wanted to come out to livermore.
Seth.

im cool seth i got my own mechanics ova here fuck a small fee

how did he mess it up? putting the nut on? some advice...anytime you install components like that...clean the threads of with some brake cleen at least, and take your time.....rushing is not worth your life....

he messed up because you know when you are taking it off from the bottom it doesnt come apart and i guess your supposed to hit the arm to get it loose but it never does so he hit it on the screw thingy which your not supposed to do i dunno

thatll do it every time, next time, hit the knuckle. it even has spots on it to hit

damn get the right tool....ball joint seperator....looks like a tuning fork...its about $10 at auto zone...they tend to tear the boots but alot better than hitting the lca or ball joint end.

one of these

bah ass! i just went outside to take a pic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! oh well better luck for me next time

ok so now that u know what happened do i have to get it machined pressed or buy a whole new arm or what, and ive been driving on it a lot is that dangerous

the lower balljoint can be replaced, take everything off , go buy a new one, then take it to a shop anhave them put the new one on

i think citytire in modesto will do it for like $20-$30
there on Mchenry

oh ya , quit havin your boyfriend work on your car he keeps fuckin em up

how much for lower ball joint

Autozone
147 S Main St, Manteca, CA 209-824-9665


:smooch:

ur a homo haven :grinyes:

...no u are :wink:

there is an easy fix....grab some vice grip and re-thread the balljoint. it takes a few mins but it's cheaper & quicker than replacing the bastid. same thing just happened to an aquaintance's integra. jer told him to do the same and he fixed it no probs. good luck

normally i would agree with ami, with the exception that i have been involved in two accidents because of balljoints. one in my hatchie, where i hit a parked sentra, and the other i was a passenger in my friend thunderbird, and three of the 4 people had to be hospitalized. i was the only person who didnt get hurt in the car.

if the balljoint has play in it, please change it. if you just scuffed the tip of it and messed up the threads, then try rethreading it, but if the nut feels bad going on in any way, then change the balljoint, your life is not worth 35 bucks.

im cool seth i got my own mechanics ova here fuck a small fee

Well I sopose that would work to :naughty:

normally i would agree with ami, with the exception that i have been involved in two accidents because of balljoints. one in my hatchie, where i hit a parked sentra, and the other i was a passenger in my friend thunderbird, and three of the 4 people had to be hospitalized. i was the only person who didnt get hurt in the car.

if the balljoint has play in it, please change it. if you just scuffed the tip of it and messed up the threads, then try rethreading it, but if the nut feels bad going on in any way, then change the balljoint, your life is not worth 35 bucks.

its hard to explain because i didnt get involved in this little venture of my boyfriends he did this all on his own but he showed me, its like this piece is held up and when u hit it on the screw it breaks some sort of seal it had, so now at the top it has like an inch of space where there used to be no space, above the part that kinda looks like a cv boot. so he screwed up the bolt thingy as high as he could but it still has that play, so when i hit small bumps in the road it has that inch to play and rattle and shit. anyway what would this part be called at kragen/autozone if i make any sense

This may help . . . http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-18-9.jpg

yes thank you im not 100% positive but i think that the space im speaking of is right above the balljoing boot thing and he said its because you are not supposed to hit stright on the bolt you are supposed to hit the arm when u are removing it and he hit the bolt like an idiot so i need to buy whatever will take away the space and fix my prob so whats it called :smile:

Im not sure which thingy your talkin' about - lower, upper, tie rod. Check out the suspension part to this website to help find which thingy your talkin' about. I'm thinking upper, but I'm not 100% sure either.

This website >http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/suspension.htm

i forgot to mention....give your boyfriend a :loser: for us :evillol: :grinno:

alright i still need this to get fixed so here is a pic of the problem that gap is not supposed to be there right under the upper arm. so um my boyfriend says that if we just buy the balljoint that you will have to get it machine pressed, but if we bought the uppper arm and the ball joint that it would already be machined in....help me out guys


what the hell do i have to link pics from another website now...that is stupid!!!

what the fuck im getting pissed this is way to complicated im trying to put this pic on imagestation i uploaded it but im not finding a good link to copy of the picture to put up on here....grrrrrrrr

Check your PM's Lisa

thanks for everyones help we fixed it and its secured rock on

N.A.P.A sell's the upper balljoint replacement without a-arm for $43.83 part#260-1523

Alright my boyfriend fucked up my balljoint on the left side, i dont know much about it except how its like stuck in and if you hit the screw hard or something it pops a lil out and gives like an inch or two of room to play and vibrate and be really gay when im driving, he doesnt know how to fix this, does anyone know, do u have to get it machine pressed????


Here are some tips for you:

1: Don't drive the car. Park it until fixed.
1a: Get another boyfriend, one that can fix you car (just kidding)
2: AutoZone /Advance Auto part have "pullers" that will pop the ball joint loose from the control arm for about $10 or so. AutoZone has a tool LOANER program as well. You “buy” (a Deposit) the tool, and then you return it and they give you the money back’ I believe it it for TIE-ROD ends. It will work on BALLJOINTS as well.

MINE is labeled “OEM Part number 25297” It’s silver in color with a black screw down the center.

Remove castle nut, attach tool, center. Make sure the tool is not pinching the balljoint boot before tightening it down. Then tighten to about 40ft lbs. To make the joint pop apart easier you can apply WD-40, and or Lightly" hit arm to make it "pop" off. Hitting the arm "Shocks" the parts so they will release since it is a taper joint.

It’s ALLOT better to use a PULLER than to just beat the thing off…


PS: Sometimes you can tighten the tool, Tap arm for a minute or two, then just walk away and could back 10 minutes later and it has popped off. Sometime you have to tighten the tool more, do some more tapping.


One more thing: Put ANTI-SEIZE on bolts that go through the lower control arms bushings and such !!!!!

I was at the junkyard removing steering knuckles... everything was going smoothly until one of the LCA bolts was frozen to the bushing insert. ERRRRRRRRRR


Had to Chisel the LCA mount off to get the thing out. (Lots of fun). Luckily for me it was a junkyard car and I could CUT the mount off.

ANTI-SEIZE will keep this from happening, especially if you live up north, Or live in a "salty" environment.