94 S-10 check engine light and stalling

Hey guy's, I'm new but this is a nice place you have here. The reason I found this site was through looking for solutions for my 94 S-10's problems. Not too long ago the check engine soon light came on and the temp guage stopped working, everything ran fine so I put of getting it checked. Today as I was driving it stalled out and the check guages light was on, all the guages looked fine except for the still not working temp guage. When I tried to fire it back up it just wouldn't turn over, I left it alone for maybe 5 minutes and it fired right back up, been fine since. This is the 2nd time it's done this with the first time firing right back up immidiatly, any clues beyond me taking it to a shop and getting ripped off? Any help is greatly appreciated.

my s-10 is doin the same exact thing, the problem with mine is the coolant sensor, the one that sends the info to the computer not the gauge one, b/c theer are two so if u go buy one let the guy know that

Well, it completely crapped out on me now. I'm going to replace the distributor cap/rotor/wires tomorrow and see what that does. One other thing, I've noticed people saying they've taken their trucks to autozone to get the code from the computer, does autozone have a computer to get the code/codes or just the code explanations?

they will put it on a scanner and it will read the codes the service engine light saved in your computer and they wil tell u what they mean, u can do a self check too, jus after u get the codes call autozone and they will tell u what they mean, on mine there is a little black box like plastic piece hanging to the right and below my steering wheel. it is a oplug that the scanner autozone will use to check ur codes. look at the two holes on the top right corner, use a wire and put one end in one hole and the other end in the other hole, and turn the ignition on but dont start the truck. they sevice wngine light will flash. if it flashes 3 times then a short break then say 2 times, the code is 32, it will give each code three times. then b/t codes there is a kinda long pause, then call autozone and give them the codes u get.

First things first....What is missing? SPARK,FUEL?
We need to know what element is missing to start some diagostics.
The SES light may give some clues but you also have to check the basics.
There is no sense in installing a cap, rotor and plug wires if you dont know what is causing your truck not to start (you're throwing money away)

Since you stated that your truck would not turn over, I would look towards the basic electrical componants first....Battery and charging system. If they are OK...engine spins and wont start, we need to look at the next items...FUEL,SPARK AND AIR (we will assume you have air because you are breathing)
If you take this in logical steps, you will find your problem and save some money.

I changed the battery to a Diehard gold, swapped out the rotor, distributor cap, spark plug wires, pcv valve, and air filter, and it still stalls. All that stuff needed changing anyway so it's not too much of a waste, it act's like it's just not getting spark though. It'll start up for 30 seconds then die and won't turn over again unless you leave it alone for a while then just repeat the process. While I was swapping out the wires I did find 2 things, one was what looked to be some sort of plug that was just hanging loose and half melted away, I've yet to trace it to see where it goes but could it have something to do with my non-working temp guage? The other was a wire coming from the alternator that was three-quarters of the way cut and completely corroded, it's not the wire going to the battery, it goes into one of the black sleeves with other wires and back behind the engine. It's been raining here most of the day so I haven't had too much time to try and trace it yet. Thanks for all the reply's thus far though.

If your spending money on "trial and error" you should just go back to the parts store and by a Hanes manual for the S10. It will show you how to jump the Diagnostics connector under your dash and bring up codes through your check engine light. You can then refer to the book for the problem (s). I have a 91 camaro and the engine light was coming on while on the highway. Of course I did a tune up and checked all wires. It seemed to have run fine to me. It did this for about 3 months but only on the highway. I finally broke down and went the the hanes manual $10-$15. I brought up a fuel pressure code. I changed the filter and made sure my injectors were spraying good. I did not check my fuel presure and about 2 months later fuel pump went out. Basically what I am saying is dont ignore the LIGHT since its to easy to figure out what its telling you. Good luck, hate to see a good Chevy down.

Lets clarify a couple things. When the engine cuts off does it have a ..
Spins and no start condition....engine spins over fine, just wont run
OR
A wont spin over condition....you turn the key and the starter wont engage

This will make a difference on the direction of diagnosis.

The melted plug you found may be the wire connector for the temp gage. look on the head and see if there is a sender with no wire going to it.

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it. I think I'll invest in one of those manuals, I'll probably need it later on down the road anyway. It seems like it'll start fine and then within 15 seconds it'll just cut out, no coughing, shaking, rough running, nothing. Then everything has power, it just won't turn over,the engine spins and it tries to start but nothing. If I leave it alone for an hour it'll start right back up but then die within a few seconds.

sounds like injectors are leaking, i had the problem, you can go to a parts store an dbuy a kit for all of the gaskets in the throttle body if it is throttle body.

Yes !
Went to forum, found out about the EGR valve - This can be done with a 10mm socket/ 9"extension- use a swivel on the R/H bolt and remove the valve.
I found a big piece of Carbon in the port where the valve closes. Reinstalled - Runs great. repair costs $0.00, If you need to replace valve- buy from Auto zone and install.
Timmy H from Connecticut

Well guys sorry but it seems you have all missed something very important that he stated here "The other was a wire coming from the alternator that was three-quarters of the way cut and completely corroded, it's not the wire going to the battery, it goes into one of the black sleeves with other wires and back behind the engine." This sounds like a problem with one of the wires coming off the back of the alternator that should have 12 volt power at all times is possibly bad i would start there. And just in case you read this GMMERLIN i posted a question about 2 or 3 weeks ago about a problem similar but not the same and still have not figured it out as i do not have the $$$ to spend on a new computer and memcal? chip for my 92 jimmy but if you dont mind helping me with a few questions send me a email or mesage me here.
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