2001 firebirds of all types

I must say I really like the new firebirds.
They now have 310 hp for 23 grand, 0-60 in 4.9 seconds, pretty good for the price. They handle OK too, but not as well as some other cars.
Stupid GM is cancelling them, but they shouldn't.
Looks quite mad, too, and with performance to back it up. I'll take a 325hp WS6 with a six speed, thankyou, and I'll go smoke those stangs and tons of exotics costing more than a decent house:sun:

I have a 97 Z/28 and I agree with you totaly. I liked the Camaros untill the 98 body style change, after that it's T/A all the way. And unless the handling when down in the new body you'll beet a stang in a rosd course too. you'll beat just about anything under 40K. this is not magazine reports this is real life unless there is a vette or hot Eropean sports car on the track it's yours. If you didn't buy it yet don't waste your money on the WS6 it's only a couple hundreth of a second faster in the 1/4 mile, unless you like the looks.
I haven't heard from GM that the F-bodys will be cancelled but the idea sells magazines i've been hereing the cancellation storys since before the 98 body style change. Don't worry just go buy one.

I agree that with the WS6 you don't get alot of bang for you option buck, but is is still neat looking.
I have heard that the F-body will be cancelled after the 2002 or 2003 model year, then re-introduced in 2005.
I think that is why they are making the SSR, to plug the gap, maybe even use it as a replacement:mad:
A roadster-truck is not a replacement for a muscle car, and I can only hope they will continue to carry the muscle-car flame.

PS, whats the big deal, anyway?:confused: I mean, they sell tens of thousands of firebirds/camaro's, and if Honda can make money of 5000 S2000's, (there are count;ess other examples), then GM should be able to make money of the F-bodies.

PSS, I also prefer the pre-98 camaro styling, but the new one can be made a lot nicer by about 2 grand of body\grille kits.:sun:

im really thinkin of getting a 2001 firebird. not sure though if the ws6 option is worth the extra 4gs. i was going to get the formula but if i want the ws6 i have to get the T/A, so if im not getting the ws6 i was just going to get the formula and save 2gs.

i was just wondering what kind of mods i could put on to improve handling, im pretty much new to the car sceen, and have been trying to soke up information for the past 4 months on cars. i test drove aconvertible T/A with the ws6 optionit looked sweet as hell. but the car felt like it could go alot faster. so me and my friend looked under the hood, and those ram air intakes are non-performing so i think with a good cold-air intake will improve its performance alot.

i also want to know what you guys would do if you could buy a car for under 25k i know you byist but anything wouyld help, im pretty much stuck on the firebird anyway after looking at a 3000gt, 01 eclipse, and i didnt even bother with mustangs. but just come back with your opions and a list of mods to imrove handling, and speed if you guys can thanks

oh yah and the reason there cancelling the camaro and firebird is because the mustang sells 3 times more then both of them combined. so its basically a gimick to sell more cars. i also know alot about bussiness and just becasue you sell cars doesnt mean your making money off them. they have to pay for all the equipment, storage, and personel to make em and if they dont sell a curtain amount they will actaully lose money even if they sell like 10,000 they still could lose money but i dont know there #s so dont know what there break even point is.

I think it is good that you are getting a firebird:) The reason it feels like it could be faster is that they can't open it up, or it might not be emissions legal.
To really boost performance for a cheap price, are (in ordre of cost-effectiveness, i think):
1) K&N air induction system ($100, probalby, maybe more)
2) Headers
3) Cat-back exhaust
This is all fairly simple stuff, would cost less than 2 grand, and probably give 50 hp. Some more involved things are:
4) underdrive pulleys
5) new fuel injection stuff (holley eliminator fuel injection kit, for example, probable good with the easier breathing mods)
6)higher compression pistons (a lot of work, not necessarily a good idea)
7)a new cam (be careful!! cams can really change behaviour, KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING!!!!)
8)new intake manifold

You can go farther, and if you start shopping around, you will quickly discover that. If I were you, I would get items 1,2,3,5,7. I would seriously consider 8, and then 4. While you're at it, get good gaskets for the parts you change.
With the first 5 numbers, you should get at least 400 hp.

FOR HANDLING:
1) fully adjustable suspension kit (struts, springs, dampers, etc, usually sold as a whole kit), maybe lowering a bit.
2) if you do #1, get urethane bushings
3) anti-roll bar
4) strut tower brace
5) nice new wheels/tires (maybe 18 inchers, with, say, 275/40zr/18 pirelli p-zero rosso asimmetricos) could be pricey, probably not necessary.
Again, if you look into it, other things will come to your attention.
I would get 1,2,3,4. Should be less than 1500.

Hope this helps. If I find more stuff, I will post it.
Others, please post stuff aswell.

For my 25G, it would be, well, a firebird T/A or Z28. (I might consider the T-tops, too, as I am 6ft 2)

I think they make more than 40-50 000 firebirds/camaros, or 10 times that of the S2000, which is profitable. Huh, GM, make it profitable, it can't be that hard, can it???

uh, stelle, can you post a reply. I want to know if you buy a 'bird. Also, can other people post some good mods, or comment on mine. I probable forgot some simple stuff;)

well after alot of thought, i mean alot i have decided to get a camaro SS. its a little cheaper then the firebird. ill be able to get it a little sooner and theres alot more people selling used camaros then firebirds i mean alot more. maybe thats a sign i should get the fireird but i think the extra 15 hp and the little extra cash i would save will be worth it. but after some unexected expenses it will be 5 more months before i can get one, so maybe the 2002 models will be out and i can get the 01 model and get the extra 5 hp. who knows maybe this delay is a blseesing in discgiuos(no idea how to spell that word). im putting 11k down so my payments are around 200 a month because im not getting any help with this purchase so i need a big down payment. im only 19 so another 5 months wont kill me.

Yeaah! Its good to here people buying awesome, fast cars.
The firebird and camaro are the same car, so the styling just varies. The SS should be awesome, its faster than a Porsche 911, and I'm sure you know how much that costs. Keep us updated about your car, and tell us what your impressions of it are when you get to drive it.:flash:

well im 1/4 of the way there i have $1500 saved for the camaro. i only have $3000 left on my car i curently own. when i pay it off im selling it for $7000 then im saving 3k more good thing is im now making 1k a month and soon $1500 a month working 3 days a week. im going to colledge so 1/4 the way there im so excited.

Good luck!
And happy (future) motoring:)

Just my .02, but if you get a new F-Body (Camaro/Firebird) the first mods you want to consider is the would be
1) Whisper air cleaner lid (huge increase in airflow)
2) Mass airflow ends (much cleaner design than factory) reduced my 1/4 mile by .4
3) exhaust cut-out.
4) 4.10 gears.

These mods should take any LS-1 into the high 12's.:eek:

Originally posted by Chris
I think it is good that you are getting a firebird:) The reason it feels like it could be faster is that they can't open it up, or it might not be emissions legal.
To really boost performance for a cheap price, are (in ordre of cost-effectiveness, i think):
1) K&N air induction system ($100, probalby, maybe more)
2) Headers
3) Cat-back exhaust
This is all fairly simple stuff, would cost less than 2 grand, and probably give 50 hp. Some more involved things are:
4) underdrive pulleys
5) new fuel injection stuff (holley eliminator fuel injection kit, for example, probable good with the easier breathing mods)
6)higher compression pistons (a lot of work, not necessarily a good idea)
7)a new cam (be careful!! cams can really change behaviour, KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING!!!!)
8)new intake manifold

You can go farther, and if you start shopping around, you will quickly discover that. If I were you, I would get items 1,2,3,5,7. I would seriously consider 8, and then 4. While you're at it, get good gaskets for the parts you change.
With the first 5 numbers, you should get at least 400 hp.

FOR HANDLING:
1) fully adjustable suspension kit (struts, springs, dampers, etc, usually sold as a whole kit), maybe lowering a bit.
2) if you do #1, get urethane bushings
3) anti-roll bar
4) strut tower brace
5) nice new wheels/tires (maybe 18 inchers, with, say, 275/40zr/18 pirelli p-zero rosso asimmetricos) could be pricey, probably not necessary.
Again, if you look into it, other things will come to your attention.
I would get 1,2,3,4. Should be less than 1500.

Hope this helps. If I find more stuff, I will post it.
Others, please post stuff aswell.

For my 25G, it would be, well, a firebird T/A or Z28. (I might consider the T-tops, too, as I am 6ft 2)


Well, I guess you're SORTA close but if you're looking for a car thats going to kick ass at the track, start off by buying an AUTOMATIC. What? I know your asking "How the fuck is he going to tell me to get an AUTO when I could get a 6 spd. and blow it away?"...Well, truth is, the GM automatic transmission is so well built that it will actually be FASTER at the track then a manual.
Then, go out and buy:

Whisper Lid/K&N Filter (both) - $150 (install yoruself in 5 sec.)
Exhaust cutout - $60 (installed)
Vigilante 3200 stall converter, TransGo shiftkit and B&M Transcooler - $1200 (installed)
Mac Midlength headers with OR Y-Pipe - $600 (install yourself)
Nitto 555R Drag Radials - $380 (mounted, balanced and installed)

With those mods you're lookin at a 11.9-12.3 sec. car with traction (at sea level)
Nevermind the injectors or intake manifold, they're NOT NEEDED. The stock manifold will be fine.

Now, if you really wanna get serious, get the MTI "Stage 2 Heads/Cam" package. This is pretty costly, but you'll be looking at a SOLID 11 sec car with traction.
Then, drop some weight from the car, throw some spray on it and say "Hello 10s!" (This is using a user friendly, out of the box kit.)
You can customize your setup (as you can see I did in the sig.) to fit your needs.
:smoker: :sun:

If you're looking for a Road Racing car, then get a 6 spd and the following:

BMR Suspension Components and HAL shocks/springs.
The suspension components would include:
Lower Control Arms, Subframe Connectors, Panhard Rod, Lowering Springs and the HAL shocks....This would be a mean road race car.

I dont think a slush box would be faster than a well driven stick. It just goes against the basics.

But its great to have you here, as you obviously know you shnzit!

Trust me when I say it's faster.
Don't believe me? Check out www.LS1Tech.com...

An evenly modded A4 will ET better then it's M6 counterpart, however, the M6 will trap higher....
But who cares who traps highest, it's whoever makes it to the finish line first!

The reason the A4's are faster is mainly because of the torque multiplication you get by puttin in an aftermarket torque converter...And when the transmission makes the shifts, the converter keeps the rev's up higher in the power band.
I'm actually thinking about going with a higher stall torque converter (4400) to keep the revs up even higher!
Also, I can brake torque the car higher at the line without the wheels spinning, allowing me to leave harder... :sun:

i don't like any firebirds, to be on topic...

but i rreally wanted to say:

HAPPY BDAY CHRIS!!!:ylsuper

blackbird01: Fine, I guess I'll be on the fence, thats the best I'm going to do! (Then why do drag racers use sticks whenever they can in the pro series'???)


Thanks Adam:)

Why is it that 9 of the top 10 FASTEST LS1 F-Body's are automatic? The one manual car in the top 10 has been converted to a Jerico 4 speed.

Most braket racers will either use a MODIFIED clutchless manual or an automatic if possible.
I've been drag racing for a little over a year, both on the street and at the track. And I have driven both a manual and automatic equipped F-Body. While the manual is more fun around town, at the track, the automatic shines. The torque multiplication and higher stall given with an aftermarket torque converter is unbeatable.

I can brake torque the car higher at the line without the wheels spinning, allowing me to leave harder

I don't follow. Please explain.

This means that while my car is sitting at the starting line, waiting for the green light to come on, I would do the following:

Put right foot on BRAKE.
Put left foot on GAS and give SLIGHT pressure to bring the RPM's up to approx. 1100 RPM.
As soon as the green light comes on, let off the brake and give gas (traction limited)...
Because of the aftermarket torque converter, TORQUE to the wheels is MULTIPLIED. So lets say my ENGINE is making 350 ft/lbs of TORQUE. Well, the converter multiplies it (how much depends on the converter)
This is known as "STR" or "Stall Torque Ratio"
The "STR" on my current converter is 2.2 which is a good "daily driver" converter. Now, if I wanted to go all out race, I'd up the stall to a 4400 and go with a STR of 2.9 (thats REALLY high)

Another aspect of the torque converter is it's ability to "slip" a little bit to allow the revs to stay in the power band. With a 3200 stall converter, my RPMs will only drop down a few hundred RPMs when the transmission shifts (thus keeping me IN my powerband)

Now, I'm not saying Manual Tranny's are useless and NOT GOOD.
That's wrong. If driven correctly, a well built manual can be just as fast as an automatic. However, how many people in the world can:
1) Shift faster then a computer
2) Never....EVER EVER EVER miss a shift?
Not many people out there are there?
Even the Pro's mess up.
This is another reason why automatics have an advantage at the dragstrip. "Torque Multiplication" and they are much more consistent.

Hey guys, Im 16, just got my first car- a 2001 black firebird w/v6 engine... bein 16 i am completely broke except when i get my measley paycheck every2 weeks...recently ive been blowing it on fun yet inexpensive interior light mods...i got a few neons and some glow wire and have it all set up for a really neat look..my friend and I went out to pepboys and got some switches and inline fuse box's for a little switch job we wanted to do in our cars (he has an acura integra LS) yea screw importsLoL..anyway, has anyone had any experience with hooking stuff up to the fuse box...the switch i have actually fits perfectly into the cig-lighter and if i can figure out how to take away teh electrical current i think that the cig-lighter would be the coolest housing for my new switch...but i need to know how to disable the electrical flow to it in order to prevent fire and what not...any ideas?!

[email protected] if you have some really good advice!

Thanks guys
-Hawk

Posting this in a thread that's a year and a half old is not the way to do things...

Next time, start a new one, and welcome to AF.