Very odd engine problem..need help

1993 plymouth colt gl 1.8L

problem: When trying to strat the car, it just turns and turns. The starter is good and seems strong while turning the engine. I have just replaced wires, plugs, fuel filter, cap and rotor. The problem was there before the new parts. I have pulled the fuel line right before the fuel rail and gas flow seems good. When having someone help to find out abuot spark, we tested with eather and when sprayed into the airfilter the engine trys to start, but seems to lack enough fuel. When I try to start the car normaly I will crank away in short time spans (about 5 seconds max) this can go on for about 10 mins untill the car finaly starts and runs GREAT. When the engine is running it is strong... I get REALLY good gas milage also.. what almost seems to be 50 more miles per tank then normal(highway driving)

So the cliff notes here are:

Car turns and turns, then after a long while... it starts and runs great.

Any ideas here?

let me know if you need more info.

thanks,
Cyber_Drone

choke not working properly?

choke not working properly?
EFI engines have a choke?

EFI engines have a choke?

Yes. How else would a cold engine start?

Its computer controled, but its still a choke.

The purpose of a "choke" is to richen the fuel mixture for starting. The simplest way to achieve that in a carbureted engine is to use a butterfly valve like most of us are presumably familiar with. Sometimes even carbureted engines just use some means of dumping extra fuel into the airflow, such as the system used on some marine outboard motors. On the GM TBI system, the injectors are held wide open for a time to achieve the enrichment needed.

The term "choke" is not really a good generic term for whatever method is used to richen the mixture. In my humble opinion, of course. :smokin:

Have you tried running a top end cleaner though the engine? At the moment that's all my brain is really capable of coming up with under your circumstances.

FI engines have two parts that you need to check. Most FI systems use a "cold start injector" to richen the mixture when the engine is cold. It usually sits on top of the intake manifold before the butterfly/throttle. It is electronically controlled by a temperature sensor in the block--ON when cold and OFF when the engine is warm. Checking it usually involves removing it and watching the spray pattern during cranking. The other item is the accumulator which stores fuel pressure while the engine is off so that when you do crank, enough pressure is available to work the injectors. If the accumulator is leaking, you could be trying to charge it up during the first cranking cycle.

do you have any specifics on when the engine starts easy .vs. when it takes 10 minutes to start?

ok after a few weeks and still havent taken it to a pro...

I have found out that the engine starts after i hear a click (sound of a relay possibly) near or in the "brain". I also hear within a second (door is open) the sound of what i think is the fuel pump turning on.

The click only happens after multiple attempts of cranking the engine. It seems more like the amount of times i try to turn it over rather then the lenght or duration of each time i try to start it. So instead of putting extreme wear on the starter, I pulse the starter in 1-2 second bursts and wait about 4 seconds between them. Eventualy, I hear the click inside the car, then i instantly hear the sound of the pump.

with this, what should i try to replace to fix the problem?

ok after a few weeks and still havent taken it to a pro...

I have found out that the engine starts after i hear a click (sound of a relay possibly) near or in the "brain". I also hear within a second (door is open) the sound of what i think is the fuel pump turning on.

The click only happens after multiple attempts of cranking the engine. It seems more like the amount of times i try to turn it over rather then the lenght or duration of each time i try to start it. So instead of putting extreme wear on the starter, I pulse the starter in 1-2 second bursts and wait about 4 seconds between them. Eventualy, I hear the click inside the car, then i instantly hear the sound of the pump.

with this, what should i try to replace to fix the problem?

If it is your fuel pump turning on when you hear the click, it should turn on as soon as you turn the key on (no starter necessary). Turn the key on and for about 5 seconds, you should hear a hum coming from the fuel tank. Try this and maybe I can narrow down the problem for you.