92 accord #1 cylinder not getting fuel

does any one know what could cause the #1 cylinder to not get fuel when the others are. I've checked for spark, compression, all good. I checked for a pulse at the injector it was good, I switched the injector with another cylinder, nothing changed. I inspected the timing belt it looked brand new. I replaced the plugs, wires,cap and button. I can't figure out what the problem is. COULD IT BE THE FUEL PUMP OR PRESSURE REGULATOR? OR SOME SENSOR I DON'T KNOW ABOUT?
HELP, DRIVING A 3 CYLINDER CAR SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

could be bad injector? fuel pump supplies all injectors....but the injectors is what lets fuel through.

get someone else to re-test it maybe.

come on people, give me some help here, It's not the injector, as i said I switched the injector with another cylinder that is working and that didn't fix the problem. if the injector was bad then then the other cylinder would be misfiring. As I said, I'm getting spark, have compression, getting pulse to the injector, resistance between injectors is the same for each cylinder. Already replaced plugs, wires, cap and button. SO, THE QUESTION IS WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE? ALSO, I'M NOT GETTING ANY CODES, THE CHECK ENGIN LIGHT ISN'T COMING ON.

IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WITH ANY REAL ADVICE?
MOST OF THE PEOPLE POSTING DON'T SEEM TO KNOW ANYTHING USEFULL ABOUT CARS, BUT THEY STILL GIVE THEIR ADVICE AND ACT LIKE THEY DO.
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
COME ON, SOMEONE OUT THERE HAS TO BE A HONDA MECHANIC

sorry bro. thats hella odd. it should throw a code or at least run like crap. let me think tonight aiite?

come on people, give me some help here, It's not the injector, as i said I switched the injector with another cylinder that is working and that didn't fix the problem. if the injector was bad then then the other cylinder would be misfiring. As I said, I'm getting spark, have compression, getting pulse to the injector, resistance between injectors is the same for each cylinder. Already replaced plugs, wires, cap and button. SO, THE QUESTION IS WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE? ALSO, I'M NOT GETTING ANY CODES, THE CHECK ENGIN LIGHT ISN'T COMING ON.

IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WITH ANY REAL ADVICE?
MOST OF THE PEOPLE POSTING DON'T SEEM TO KNOW ANYTHING USEFULL ABOUT CARS, BUT THEY STILL GIVE THEIR ADVICE AND ACT LIKE THEY DO.
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
COME ON, SOMEONE OUT THERE HAS TO BE A HONDA MECHANIC

:banhim:
When the car is running spray some starter fluid where the intake manifold meets the cylinder head, spray on all 4 cylinders. If the RPM's jump, then you have a bad intake gasket. Thats all the assistance I will give to an ignorant person. Figure it yourself - get a repair manual. Smarty pants . . . . . . . :headshake

Clogged EGR port, Clean ports and intake manifold

does any one know what could cause the #1 cylinder to not get fuel when the others are. I've checked for spark, compression, all good. I checked for a pulse at the injector it was good, I switched the injector with another cylinder, nothing changed. I inspected the timing belt it looked brand new. I replaced the plugs, wires,cap and button. I can't figure out what the problem is. COULD IT BE THE FUEL PUMP OR PRESSURE REGULATOR? OR SOME SENSOR I DON'T KNOW ABOUT?
HELP, DRIVING A 3 CYLINDER CAR SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok first why do you "think" the #1 cyl isn't getting fuel?
OR do you mean the #1 cyl isn't firing? Because if it's getting pulsed and you've tried another injector then it can't be the fuel. Are you SURE you checked for pulse properly?

I am having exactly the same problem with my son's '92 Accord. However, I was able to determine that it wasn't getting a pulse to the #1 fuel injector by rigging up a test light with a 14 volt flashlight bulb. My voltmeter showed voltage, but the test light showed no pulse. It runs great when starting cold for a couple of minutes, then the pulse to the injector drops out and it runs rough. Have you solved your problem yet? I'm thinking it's the ECU since no codes are being set on mine either. I look forward to your response.

You say injector resistance is good? 2.5-3.2 Ohms at the injector right? 6 Ohms at the injector box? How did you check the pulse? If you used a noid light, you may as well trash it cause they don't work worth a fuck. You need an ocsilliscope.

You said you checked for spark? Did you pull the plug out and connect it to the wire and lay it aside and fire up the car with the plug and wire connected laying aside grounded out?

You may want to race the injector wires back to the injector box and verify they are not pinched or grounding out. Ensure the right ones are grounded.

You will have to give me more explicit info in order for me to give you an answer, as there actually many things that can cause a cylinder not to fire..

I guess I need to know what kind of engine your running and what kind of injectors you have, as I was assuming you had peak and hold injectors. Let me know!

Peace
~J

Car is '92 Honda Accord LX, engine is 2.2 liter, SOHC, 4 cyl. Definitely getting spark, fuel injector definitely good. You asked about resistance at injector box. I assume you mean the injector resistor. If so, yes resistance is around 6 ohms for all four injectors.

Again, the car runs great when first started for a couple of minutes. Then #1 stops firing. I don't have an oscilloscope. I made a noid light using a 14 volt light bulb and there is definitely a pulse at the #1 injector when cold and running normallly and there is definitely not a pulse when starts running rough.

I determined my problem was a clogged EGR port. The egr ports are located in the intake manifold. there are 6 or 8 of them I don't remember, If they are clogged or too dirty they can starve a cylinder of air and cause studdering during excelleration and a shuddering going up hill. also can cause complete misfiring of one or more cylinders. First thing you need to do is determine which cylinder is misfiring then locate the nearest egr ports they look like 3/8" plugs in the top side of the intake manifold. start your car and let it get to temp. turn it off and take a SMALL propane torch and heat the ports closest to the problem cylinder. be VERY carefull working close to the fuel lines, use heat shields to protect wires and lines in the way. you do not have to get them super hot I would say 10 seconds of direct flame should be enough. when you are done start the car. if the misfire is gone. you have found the problem. I followed these exact steps with my car and when I started the car after heating the 2 ports close to the 1 cylinder the misfire was completly gone. I drove it for a couple days with no re-occuring problems so I took of the intake manifold a thouroughly cleaned it. That was a real bitch and not exactly something I would recomend doing if you don't feal comfgortable with it. supposedly you can pull out the egr plugs with a slide hammer W/O removing the intake and clean the ports. I had no luck with that method. I found all the information I needed on the web. good luck

NOT TRUE! If the egr ports are clogged the system will not operate properly and it can cause a misfire. I don't care what you think you know it can happen period!

do your homework, and don't give bullshit advice. go to, www.epa.state.il.us/air/vim/air-repair/2002/air-repair-october-2002.pdf or just do a web search on 90-93 accords EGR port cleaning or misfiring you will find that clogged egr ports are a common problem on hondas and that if you have a clogged port your engin will run like shit and misfire

it's funny how many people post here that don't know what the hell they are talking about, but they still insist they do. just a little hint, putting a big ass wing on your car don't make you a mechanic

I dont mean to hijack this thread, but what supplies the injector pulse to the injectors? Is it the injector resistor? I've got a 93 Accord LX 2.2L that I've been trying to get running for about a month now. Yeah, I know :loser: :grinno: I'm getting spark, but not sure if I'm getting fuel. Thanks all! :thumbsup:



-Jeremy

Hook up a noid light to your injector wiring. (Available at most auto part stores). It'll tell you if you are getting the correct power to your injector.