14b at 16 psi

first question. my cousin has a 14b that is in good shape and wants a 100-150 dollars, is that a fair price? if so could i run this turbo at 16 psi with an MBC on stock fuel infectors and no fuel management? because right now my car is pretty much stock except for a blitz BOV and a K&N(building home depot intake this weekend).

thanks for the help. :thumbsup:

Look around your area and see how much used 14B's are going for, thats a good price in my area, but mabey not in yours.

The 14B is a solid upgrade for the 2G. You'll need an adaptor for it though , I beleive , So it can bolt up to the exhaust mani , and the compressor outlet faces the wrong direction from what the T25 does. The T25 goes out underneath and toward the P-side fender , the 14B comes out on top and toward the radiator. And I'd say about $100 for a good 14B in excellent running condition is about average.

The 14B will bolt up to the Ex mani. The kit is for the water/oil lines

The 14B will bolt up to the Ex mani. The kit is for the water/oil lines

Yeah , I was thinking about the T3's , don't ask me why. :screwy: That requires a whole nother exhaust mani. But yeah , he's right , you'll need the kit for the relocated water and oil lines on the 14B. You can check RRE (RoadRaceEnginering) for those. And you'll need to reroute the plumbing coming off the turbo outlet.

Yeah , I was thinking about the T3's , don't ask me why. :screwy: That requires a whole nother exhaust mani. But yeah , he's right , you'll need the kit for the relocated water and oil lines on the 14B. You can check RRE (RoadRaceEnginering) for those. And you'll need to reroute the plumbing coming off the turbo outlet.


The T3 does not require a new manifold. There are a number of kits (all really the same things) that will allow you to utilize the stock manifold. And the "2G install kit" works with the stock 2G IC pipe routing. The routing is not altered.

The "routing" is altered. A j-pipe is required to get back down to the LICP. All you need to toss a 14b on is the jpipe, and oil feed line. It can be had for less than 200 bucks, or you can pick up RREs hacker tweaker kit for 199 (fill kits are ~100 more, but you can reuse all of the metal gaskets). For the oil return line, simply file/drill/grind the two bolt holes clower together to match the spacing of the tdo5 cartridge. For water lines, simply swap the front with the rear, bend slightly as needed, and drive it on. Very simple, and it can all be done for 300 bucks. With this, BOV, exhaust, filter, AFC, boost controller, and race gas, I ran 12.7s. Others have gone faster. Defintely some VERY good bang for the buck. ;)

The "routing" is altered. A j-pipe is required to get back down to the LICP. All you need to toss a 14b on is the jpipe, and oil feed line. It can be had for less than 200 bucks, or you can pick up RREs hacker tweaker kit for 199 (fill kits are ~100 more, but you can reuse all of the metal gaskets). For the oil return line, simply file/drill/grind the two bolt holes clower together to match the spacing of the tdo5 cartridge. For water lines, simply swap the front with the rear, bend slightly as needed, and drive it on. Very simple, and it can all be done for 300 bucks. With this, BOV, exhaust, filter, AFC, boost controller, and race gas, I ran 12.7s. Others have gone faster. Defintely some VERY good bang for the buck. ;)

Thanks for the knowledgable reply. :cheers: We need more of that around here.

Dont mention it. I dug up an old reply with a couple more details, but I think I covered all the good stuff above.. In other parts of that file I covered boost creep extensively. I forgot that I was getting creep to 22 psi, something you dont really have to worry about on the t25... If anyone is interested in that info, its a cut and paste away. ;)

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As far as the install I used RRE's "hacker/tweaker" instal kit for 200 bucks. Had everything I needed. The ONLY part that I would consider a pain in the ass was filing out the holes for the oil return line. But it beats removing it from the pan and having trouble with the infamous leaks. Now with my die grinder that job wouldn't take 5 minutes. Total job took me about 5-6 hours taking my time with food/drink breaks.

Also read the vfaq on 2G 16G install.... Tom Stangle put some notes in red about not switching the water lines front to back... I did this and it was a piece of cake. No extra water line necessary. :) Also, about all the hype about removing the stud... With the fan off (driver side) I have never had trouble removing the turbo or installing it in my 95, whether it was the T25 or 14B, so I always left it in. Everyone laughed and couldn't belive the stud was still there when they saw my 14b, but it works ;) I did evetually remove it because in my quest to eliminate boost creep I was removing just the turbine housing itself about once a week ;) And I got a handful of extra bolts from a NEDSM member at the local track hehe.

And I got a handful of extra bolts from a NEDSM member at the local track hehe.


One mans garbage is another mans gold :smile:

Alright here is what i got on my hands, a 14b with no shaft play for a hundred bucks, he said he would give me a stock 1G exhaust mani for free if i wanted it.(is it better than the stock 2G???) also could i build my "J" pipe out of 2-2 1/2" PVC and run it into my stock LICP??? i would need to switch the water lines front to back, and this is what i need some more clarification on "For the oil return line, simply file/drill/grind the two bolt holes clower together to match the spacing of the tdo5 cartridge." does Vfaq have more info, step by step instructions???? or any other help would be greatly appreciated.thanks :thumbsup:

The 2G manifold is better. Keep yours and get the 1G to sell.

PVC and ABS is great, but only before the turbo. Some people use it after, but I defintely dont trust it with the after turbo heat. As for the drain line holes, the vfaq mentions it, but once you look at the parts it will make sense. Its very simple. The bolt holes are spaced farther apart on the 2g turbo/drain line than on the 1g turbo/drain line.

so who makes a good manual boost controler? and what brand of gauges are accurate and reliable? i dont want any bling bling non functioning POS.Thanks

so who makes a good manual boost controler? and what brand of gauges are accurate and reliable? i dont want any bling bling non functioning POS.Thanks

needed to bring this back up, thanks. :thumbsup:

i know that all MBC's are suppost to perform the same function. but is there a large change between brands of MBC's and what brands do you guys suggest?

They are all the same type these days. People used to use bleeder valves, but they affect the spool up of the turbo. They are all now ball and spring valves. A ball and seat valve prevents manifold boost from reaching the wastegate, until it can overcome the sprinf pressure in the MBC and get to the WG. So the only real difference is the spring rate the manufacturer uses. The key though is to use one that is know to work well. The turbo xs one is know to cause boost spike on many cars, while others like the hallman, joe p, etc all work great for 99.9% of people.

thanks for the reply, i just bought a joe p MBC today. hoping to get everything else i need for my car in about a month.

alright some more questions about my turbo, i have taken it apart and it the fins on the turbine side of the turbo are in pretty rough shape. would replacing these through my turbo out of balance??? next question i got everything with the turbo, waterlines, oil return, what all am i need to install it(double check me please), gasket for oil return, j-pipe.thanks for the help. :thumbsup:

wanted to bring this back up.

Kevin where are you at???;)

Yes. Any time you remove the nut from the turbo shaft you need to rebalance. In fact, with banged up turbine blades odds are its already out of balance. I believe the turbine wheel and shaft are one piece as well, so you might as well do a full rebuild. Balance is cheap, but the rebuild kit is 150. I've never rebuilt one, so I cant tell you how to do it. Its usually more cost effective to find another unit id good shape.

I think you listed everything you need, except for the oil feed line. I'm sure you're aware of that though.

were do i get one of those RRE's "hacker/tweaker" instal kit and for a 14b turbo do i just need a new exhasut manifold and 2g kit as far as bolting it on i already looked at the turboing article so i no about the other stuff

95 Gsx... Why are you venting to the atmosphere? Nothing good comes from that except f@cking with your engine... Do yourself a favor and dont vent to the atmos. Yeah... I know it sounds better but who cares. Would you rather watch that stang disapear in your mirror or hear an ultra ricy PSSH between shifts? Good luck with your turbo and let us know what happens.

He could be running the MAFt setup, which allows you to vent to the atmosphere without any problems.

Just go with a simple Joe P mbc, Hallman mbc, or build your own for $10 or less!

http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html

As far as gauges, mine are autometer. I picked up boost and A/F, but everyone pretty much agrees that without an upgraded or modified o2 sensor, A/F gauges are definitely bling ;). But let's not forget that ladies love bling :D!

I picked up my autometer boost/vac gauge for $30 on dsmtuner.com classifieds.

95 Gsx... Why are you venting to the atmosphere? Nothing good comes from that except f@cking with your engine... Do yourself a favor and dont vent to the atmos. Yeah... I know it sounds better but who cares. Would you rather watch that stang disapear in your mirror or hear an ultra ricy PSSH between shifts? Good luck with your turbo and let us know what happens.

i vent to the atmosphere on both my cars and dont have a problem what so ever! so let him do whatever he wants to do...

95 Gsx... Why are you venting to the atmosphere? Nothing good comes from that except f@cking with your engine... Do yourself a favor and dont vent to the atmos. Yeah... I know it sounds better but who cares. Would you rather watch that stang disapear in your mirror or hear an ultra ricy PSSH between shifts? Good luck with your turbo and let us know what happens.

A) because the guy that owned the car before me put it on
B) yes i do like the "ultra ricey PSSH sound between shifts" so suck a nut

i need to find another 14-b or send this one SBR to get rebuilt, the turbine housing is cracked as all hell, through the waste gate and shit so i dont think i want to run it. but none of the cracks are all the way through the housing so it would probably be all right. but being irresponsible person i am, i blew $650 on a new stereo for my car instead of DSMlinkv.2 and a turbo, so maybe in July i will go for the upgrade.

I may have a 6cm turbine housing for you for cheap money. Unless the rest of the turbo needs attention too, then it would make sense to just send it in.

I may have a 6cm turbine housing for you for cheap money. Unless the rest of the turbo needs attention too, then it would make sense to just send it in.

well the turbine wheel on the one i have is on pretty rough shape, so i am trying to currently buy one, the guy says it only has 15,000 and it has no shaft play. it looks pretty clean from the pics but a pressure washer can do wonders, i will see if i get it or not. either way i still might be interested, i will let you know.