Shifting Technique and explanations?
Heineken
09-03-2003, 10:10 PM
Anyone feel like giving a brief tutorial on proper shifting while racing...benefits of certain takeoffs etc. Takeoffs...rpms...clutch handling....proper times to shift going up the gears etc. I'm fairly new to standard...so any tips/tricks any of you experienced stick drivers can lend a guy would be sweet!
Cheers
Heineken
Cheers
Heineken
-The Stig-
09-04-2003, 12:15 AM
Well, I'm no expert on driving stick... I can do it but i'm not the best. But what I can tell you is most of what needs to be taught to you is trial and error. We can give you a vague idea on where to shift and how high to launch at... but its a hands on sorta thing you'll have to work out yourself.
Just get out there and dump the clutch a few times and learn to feather it just the right amount to get that small amount of scratch on take off... then speed shift like a crack baby on a binge and you'll do ok.
Happy trails.
Just get out there and dump the clutch a few times and learn to feather it just the right amount to get that small amount of scratch on take off... then speed shift like a crack baby on a binge and you'll do ok.
Happy trails.
EnzoHonda
09-06-2003, 08:07 PM
There really isn't a whole lot to going quickly in a straight line (it's all car). The biggest question is: How long do you want the various components of your car to last? Reving the engine to 5000 RPM (differs depending on the car) and dumping the clutch is a fast way to launch, but don't expect your clutch to last. Power shifting (shifting without easing off the gas) keeps the power up, but it is hell on the transmission.
As for when to shift, it is usually best to shift somewhere around the redline. Peak power is usually 500-700 RPM below redline, and you want to stay near it. Also, your shifts should be as quick as you can move your hand. Stamp the clutch and throw the shifter has quickly as humanly possible. Also, the diagonal shifts (2 to 3 and 4 to 5) should be just as quick as the straight shifts (1 to 2 and 3 to 4). You don't have to zig-zag the shifter to get from 2 to 3 (in any car I've driven). Just move it in a diagonal (I'm amazed at the number of people who don't do this).
As for when to shift, it is usually best to shift somewhere around the redline. Peak power is usually 500-700 RPM below redline, and you want to stay near it. Also, your shifts should be as quick as you can move your hand. Stamp the clutch and throw the shifter has quickly as humanly possible. Also, the diagonal shifts (2 to 3 and 4 to 5) should be just as quick as the straight shifts (1 to 2 and 3 to 4). You don't have to zig-zag the shifter to get from 2 to 3 (in any car I've driven). Just move it in a diagonal (I'm amazed at the number of people who don't do this).
LadyLuke
09-12-2003, 02:43 PM
explanation given was pretty good.
Suggestion is to take your stock clutch and just play with your take offs (This is most important part) lEarn to get a good take off without dumping your clutch. After you wear out the stock clutch look at gettin a nicer clutch and flywheel...This will help.
Suggestion is to take your stock clutch and just play with your take offs (This is most important part) lEarn to get a good take off without dumping your clutch. After you wear out the stock clutch look at gettin a nicer clutch and flywheel...This will help.
SiXPuSHA
09-13-2003, 11:16 PM
Just get to know youre vehicle. Eventually you get to know the strong points and weak points of your ride. Then, get a short throw shifter with a 400 gram shift knob :grinyes: .
LadyLuke
09-14-2003, 12:23 AM
no no no
No short throw....It adds wieght plus you have a tendecy to throw harder fuckin up your shifter and transmission.
No short throw....It adds wieght plus you have a tendecy to throw harder fuckin up your shifter and transmission.
fatninja19
09-14-2003, 03:01 AM
no no no
No short throw....It adds wieght plus you have a tendecy to throw harder fuckin up your shifter and transmission.
How does it add weight if it's actually shorter than the stock shifter? And wouldn't the longer shifter allow more leverage, therefore increasing the strength of the throw???
No short throw....It adds wieght plus you have a tendecy to throw harder fuckin up your shifter and transmission.
How does it add weight if it's actually shorter than the stock shifter? And wouldn't the longer shifter allow more leverage, therefore increasing the strength of the throw???
-The Stig-
09-14-2003, 03:05 AM
How does it add weight if it's actually shorter than the stock shifter? And wouldn't the longer shifter allow more leverage, therefore increasing the strength of the throw???
thats what i was thinking...
thats what i was thinking...
carrrnuttt
09-14-2003, 03:32 AM
How does it add weight if it's actually shorter than the stock shifter? And wouldn't the longer shifter allow more leverage, therefore increasing the strength of the throw???
It adds weight to the throw. A short-shifter shortens the throw by increasing the length of the bottom part of the shifter, therefore you only need minimal movement of the shifter stalk to move the shift cables/rods the needed distance to shift gears.
This increased length at the bottom of the shifter stalk WILL add weight to the throw.
It adds weight to the throw. A short-shifter shortens the throw by increasing the length of the bottom part of the shifter, therefore you only need minimal movement of the shifter stalk to move the shift cables/rods the needed distance to shift gears.
This increased length at the bottom of the shifter stalk WILL add weight to the throw.
meyniehc
09-15-2003, 12:14 PM
im nobody to preach the "keep racing on the track" bs,but the absolute best way to learn how to launch /shift is to do it with a time slip to show computerised results.a day at the track will put you a leg up on the average street"racer"
that beaing said,ive raced the hell out of 4 speed cars for a long time and this is my method of racing a stick car:
1)find what burnout method your car/tires likes by looking at 60 foot time.here again this cannot be figured by seat of the pants feel.
2)start launching while reving just above idle and step up the launch idle little by little until you find the rpm where the tires just barely dont break when droping the clutch.
3)never use the clutch for traction!always let out of the clutch as fast as you can (practice)add throttle right to the point of breaking tires loose.
4)another good tip is to get a good tach and a good rpm limiter and set it just above the engines torque peak and you will be safe to practice
5)this is important-it is better to shift early than to shift late-for instance if a car dynos peak torque at 4800 rpm,you will run a faster qtr mile by shifting at 4600 than 5000.
6)THE MOST IMPORTANT THING-THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS RACING THE OTHER GUY-GET THAT CRAP OUT OF YOUR HEAD NOW!YOU ARE THERE TO DRIVE YOUR CAR-IF JOHN FORCE PULLS NEXT TO YOU AND WANTS A RUN JUST DRIVE YOUR CAR AS HE ISNT THERE AT ALL
that beaing said,ive raced the hell out of 4 speed cars for a long time and this is my method of racing a stick car:
1)find what burnout method your car/tires likes by looking at 60 foot time.here again this cannot be figured by seat of the pants feel.
2)start launching while reving just above idle and step up the launch idle little by little until you find the rpm where the tires just barely dont break when droping the clutch.
3)never use the clutch for traction!always let out of the clutch as fast as you can (practice)add throttle right to the point of breaking tires loose.
4)another good tip is to get a good tach and a good rpm limiter and set it just above the engines torque peak and you will be safe to practice
5)this is important-it is better to shift early than to shift late-for instance if a car dynos peak torque at 4800 rpm,you will run a faster qtr mile by shifting at 4600 than 5000.
6)THE MOST IMPORTANT THING-THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS RACING THE OTHER GUY-GET THAT CRAP OUT OF YOUR HEAD NOW!YOU ARE THERE TO DRIVE YOUR CAR-IF JOHN FORCE PULLS NEXT TO YOU AND WANTS A RUN JUST DRIVE YOUR CAR AS HE ISNT THERE AT ALL
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