Head work suggestions

Hey, I couldnt find anything in the FAQ or search, so why not test some of you veterans.
Here's the deal, I have a 1990 240 (I/H/E, short shifter..) I did a compression test to find #1 = 160 #2 = 120 #3 = 165 #4 = 160. This led me to the conclusion of bad piston rings. My solution is to pull the head to replace the rings and head gasket, but while it is off, I am planning to send it to a machine shop for 3 angle valve job, port and polish, and to get the head milled. Do you have any suggestions, or ideas (good or bad) about this. Thanks for your help.
-Daniel

Find out how much all of this is gonna coast because you might be better off just doing a swap. But if you want to go this way you will add a few ponies from milling the head and a prot job.

I have found a very good performance machine shop near my house that I have gone through on another engine project with amazing results. Just by checking out their price catalog, it looks like I can do this for under $700.

I have found a very good performance machine shop near my house that I have gone through on another engine project with amazing results. Just by checking out their price catalog, it looks like I can do this for under $700.


that sounds like a nice price quote. im sure u can save a bit of money to strengthen the bottom end to prepare it for a nice Ka-T kit. and run higher-than-safe boost, and then really make some serious power.

All i can say about the actual head work is it doesnt sound like you want to go too big on the porting if you intend stick with just I/H/E and porting always works best with cams/compression/fuel so you might wanna start looking around for those too.


one of the things you might wanna ask around about is milling the head for more compression (if you're staying N/A) it works on other cars but you might wanna ask around before you do it

you say $700, is that for the head work or all the other stuff?

All i can say about the actual head work is it doesnt sound like you want to go too big on the porting if you intend stick with just I/H/E and porting always works best with cams/compression/fuel so you might wanna start looking around for those too.


one of the things you might wanna ask around about is milling the head for more compression (if you're staying N/A) it works on other cars but you might wanna ask around before you do it
He's right, pending on your timing setup you might be retarding your cams and spark timing by milling the head. Nothing a set of cam gears wont fix but its a factor to worry about.

Yeah, I did neglect to mention that in those plans, I plan to set this engine up to run N/A. Depending on what the future holds, I will more than likely be looking into a SR swap...but so far as this goes, I will more than likely look to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and to advance the timing. I dont think I am leaving anything out now.

On that subject, does anyone know how much I would want to advance the timing on a N/A ka24e with head work, or where I could go to find that?

On that subject, does anyone know how much I would want to advance the timing on a N/A ka24e with head work, or where I could go to find that?
You should advance your timing as far as it will go without pinging. That is if your talking about spark timing.

Plus where are you getting the headwork done?

There is a shop in Richmond, VA called H&M motor sports. I recently used them for a project that my brother and I am working on, with lightening a flywheel, having the header and intake manifold port matched, and it worked out really well.

there is a guy in canada up north of where i live (read it on his website).

he took his KA and bored it to either a 2.8 or a 3.0. not quite sure. and he competes in auto-x and has good results. he bullnosed his whole crankshaft to make it cut throught the oil quicker, and then he bored holes into the thick metal on the crankshaft to lighten it. then he heat coated it with a yellowish clearcoat which stays cooler up until 400 degrees or so.

he did a whole buncha other things to his car and i believe he is in the 12 second range on the 1320 now.



i really dont know whether thats the route u wanna take in modifying the bottom end, cause u were talking about all head work, but i thot i'd just point it out. and i dont know what the website is, nor will i be lookin for it, but if i happen to come across it, i will bring this post back to life or PM u.

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