adding a sub-woofer
kjlouie
08-29-2003, 01:20 PM
hi, i'm thinking of adding a powered sub woofer in my trunk to run with my stock 6 CD radio unit. 1) does the stock unit have low audio outputs? 2) what's the best way to get to the back of the radio? I see 2 screws under the radio section, but that's it. 3) what's the best way to run a hot wire to the trunk area (to power the sub) should i go from the fuse panel inside the car or try to run a straight wire to the battery and drill a hole thru the firewall? 4) is it easier to run the wire along the door side or down the middle by the console? Any help would be great! Thanks. :rofl:
V-6 Dallas
10-01-2003, 12:23 PM
Hey I know what you are doing I did the same thing...
You should run straight off the battery through a Amp fuse then through the door jam...(never drill the fire-wall) back along the door bottoms to the trunk.
Walmart sells a box that takes your factory input and sectiojns off the low bands to run through an RCA cable to your amp.
the trickiy part is moving the factory CD changer...I left mine where it was in the trunk but that doesn't work...everytime I listen to my 2 Kicker 12's at higher then half volume they make my CD skip...
Word to the wise shop at Walmart then go ask a professional installer (NOT CARTOYS) to tell you how to do it.
You should run straight off the battery through a Amp fuse then through the door jam...(never drill the fire-wall) back along the door bottoms to the trunk.
Walmart sells a box that takes your factory input and sectiojns off the low bands to run through an RCA cable to your amp.
the trickiy part is moving the factory CD changer...I left mine where it was in the trunk but that doesn't work...everytime I listen to my 2 Kicker 12's at higher then half volume they make my CD skip...
Word to the wise shop at Walmart then go ask a professional installer (NOT CARTOYS) to tell you how to do it.
kjlouie
10-01-2003, 02:22 PM
wsup....thanx soo much for the reply V-6 Dallas :bananasmi , i was beginning to think my thread got LOST in cyberspace.lol:gives: j/k
i was going to put in an infinity basslink sub, which is a self contained 10" active and 10" passive with a built in power amp, in the trunk of my Av6. so i guess you're saying to run a hot wire with inline fuse from the battery thru the left fender, down the left side floor , and then under the left rear seat and then into the trunk. that sounds like the plan, yeh.
i'm still planning on running the factory am/fm/cd/tape unit, but would like a little more thump. i installed the infinity kappa 693.5i to replace my rear 6x9 speakers, thinking that would help and it did somewhat...but i'd like a lil more thump. do you think splicing into the rear speaker wires and running them into the high level input side of the sub amp will be a good enough signal? i don't think the factory unit has any low output leads. i've never looked back there...yeh i kno the rear speaker wires are a hella skinny, but the stock unit doesn't put out much power anyhows. so do you think my idea will fly? thanx again.... :thumbsup: :cheers:
kjlouie - sactown, cali
i was going to put in an infinity basslink sub, which is a self contained 10" active and 10" passive with a built in power amp, in the trunk of my Av6. so i guess you're saying to run a hot wire with inline fuse from the battery thru the left fender, down the left side floor , and then under the left rear seat and then into the trunk. that sounds like the plan, yeh.
i'm still planning on running the factory am/fm/cd/tape unit, but would like a little more thump. i installed the infinity kappa 693.5i to replace my rear 6x9 speakers, thinking that would help and it did somewhat...but i'd like a lil more thump. do you think splicing into the rear speaker wires and running them into the high level input side of the sub amp will be a good enough signal? i don't think the factory unit has any low output leads. i've never looked back there...yeh i kno the rear speaker wires are a hella skinny, but the stock unit doesn't put out much power anyhows. so do you think my idea will fly? thanx again.... :thumbsup: :cheers:
kjlouie - sactown, cali
Krk_S15
10-06-2003, 09:03 AM
Hey
All i have 2 say is that comment about "never drill the fire-wall" is the the worst thing you can do. I do installs 4 a living and never do that because you can groud out the wire or cut the wire if you run it any other way. The safest is the firewall and silacone around the hole that you drill into the firewall. Also make sure you run the power wires down one side of the car and your rca's on the other side so you dont get any distortion in your sound. Lol and wal-mart car stuff make sure you half the recipt. Even thow i work for car auto place im not just sayin that wal-mart stuff will save you money put not work as good as you think. Have Fun With Your Install :p
All i have 2 say is that comment about "never drill the fire-wall" is the the worst thing you can do. I do installs 4 a living and never do that because you can groud out the wire or cut the wire if you run it any other way. The safest is the firewall and silacone around the hole that you drill into the firewall. Also make sure you run the power wires down one side of the car and your rca's on the other side so you dont get any distortion in your sound. Lol and wal-mart car stuff make sure you half the recipt. Even thow i work for car auto place im not just sayin that wal-mart stuff will save you money put not work as good as you think. Have Fun With Your Install :p
gonzo747
10-06-2003, 10:13 PM
Ok first thing is first:
1. never buy kits or harness from wal-mart, they use Jensen kits (crap) I prefer to use better product in my Accord V6 (Metra Product). Same Price.
2. If you think that drilling is bad, why not ask the IASCA and see what they say. I think you would be surprised but it is the correct way to do it. If you bought a good amp kit other than the one from wal-mart then you would notice that they include a plastic/rubber grommet to put in the hole you drilled. Humm, what a concept, drill hole put grommet nad never worry about chaffing wire.
3. I am not mistaking but last I saw and read, CARTOYS is the largest car audio company in the country. Not including Best Try or Circuit Shity. and your favorit place Wal-Mart.
4. If you run you wires throught the door jam/fended you WILL casue a fire down the road, not only that it looks like crap. That would tell me you were to cheap to pay the $50-$65 at CarToys to get it done right.
5. If you you do use the Factory radio, use good LOC's (Line Out Converter) get them at any good shop for about $15 with an adjustable output so you can match the level output correctly.
OH Yeah I my stuff are as follows: Focal Utopia Components up front, Focal Polyglass 6 1/2's in the back desk with plates, JL Audio 300/4 amp for the mids/highs, JL Audio 500/1 for the 12w6v2-d4 sub in the back in a ported enclosure, off an Alpine CDA7875 Head unit all with Streetwires ZN360 (ZeroNoise) RCAs and 1 AWG power wire to 2 - 1 farad caps then to a Distribution block then to 2 - 4 Awg power wires to the amps.
1. never buy kits or harness from wal-mart, they use Jensen kits (crap) I prefer to use better product in my Accord V6 (Metra Product). Same Price.
2. If you think that drilling is bad, why not ask the IASCA and see what they say. I think you would be surprised but it is the correct way to do it. If you bought a good amp kit other than the one from wal-mart then you would notice that they include a plastic/rubber grommet to put in the hole you drilled. Humm, what a concept, drill hole put grommet nad never worry about chaffing wire.
3. I am not mistaking but last I saw and read, CARTOYS is the largest car audio company in the country. Not including Best Try or Circuit Shity. and your favorit place Wal-Mart.
4. If you run you wires throught the door jam/fended you WILL casue a fire down the road, not only that it looks like crap. That would tell me you were to cheap to pay the $50-$65 at CarToys to get it done right.
5. If you you do use the Factory radio, use good LOC's (Line Out Converter) get them at any good shop for about $15 with an adjustable output so you can match the level output correctly.
OH Yeah I my stuff are as follows: Focal Utopia Components up front, Focal Polyglass 6 1/2's in the back desk with plates, JL Audio 300/4 amp for the mids/highs, JL Audio 500/1 for the 12w6v2-d4 sub in the back in a ported enclosure, off an Alpine CDA7875 Head unit all with Streetwires ZN360 (ZeroNoise) RCAs and 1 AWG power wire to 2 - 1 farad caps then to a Distribution block then to 2 - 4 Awg power wires to the amps.
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