ok i need some help your pros!

ok i need some help.i have a 1992 eagle talon non turbo..and ill be driving and all of a sudeen my idle drops from 1000 to like 500 and the check engine light comes on and i have no power..but then when i give it alot of gas it breaks out of it and then keeps cutting out when i drive...please i need help guys! :evillol:

lol...sounds like my car. tomorrow i'm replacing the IAC motor and the TPS in mine. and hopefully that problem will finally stop.

I had the same problem with my Turbo 92, and I don't see why the same thing couldn't happen on a n/t. Check your ECU....take it out, take off the metal cover and smell it. If it smells like rotten fish your ECU's caps are leaking, and ruining the ECU, mine was bad enough to where there was actually burn marks on it. Caused all sorts of weird problems. I tried everything, before actually checking the ECU, picked up a used turbo ECU for $75 and it ran fine till the day I sold it.

Jason

my car is doing the same i start it and the light comes on and i have know power then i have to rev it up to get the engine light out and then i got power again

please help me

ok i need some help.i have a 1992 eagle talon non turbo..and ill be driving and all of a sudeen my idle drops from 1000 to like 500 and the check engine light comes on and i have no power..but then when i give it alot of gas it breaks out of it and then keeps cutting out when i drive...please i need help guys! :evillol:
hi im having same problem just had in on a machine today and they told me that it was a code 44 ignition signal

I had the same problem with my Turbo 92, and I don't see why the same thing couldn't happen on a n/t. Check your ECU....take it out, take off the metal cover and smell it. If it smells like rotten fish your ECU's caps are leaking, and ruining the ECU, mine was bad enough to where there was actually burn marks on it. Caused all sorts of weird problems. I tried everything, before actually checking the ECU, picked up a used turbo ECU for $75 and it ran fine till the day I sold it.

Jason
what is ECU and where do i look for it

ECU is in the glove bod i think, and it controles the car basicly
thast extreamly dumbing it down

ECU is in the glove bod i think, and it controles the car basicly
thast extreamly dumbing it down
did you mean glove box

ya i did, i couldnt spell last night, my bad, and i was wrong, i was thinking of my Z24, i have no clue where the ECU is on that car, i never did look for it on my old talon

1992 The ecu is behind the cover where the heating vents are in the middle.To remove that take the screws out at the bottom and left side and also pop out the vents above the radio.There are some screws that have to come out.Remove the heat control knobs and then the cover.Then look for the box in there you can't miss it.

The ecm is actually standing up directly underneath the radio. You need to remove the front carpeted panels under each side of the console, no other panels need to be removed. The carpeted panels are held by two screws on each side, they are covered by a round plastic piece that matches the carpet color, it's about 1" in diameter. They pop out with a screw driver.

The ECM itself is held in place with two screws on each side, which are accessible once you remove those carpeted panels.

It doesn't make much sense to remove it unless you know it's bad. The right thing to do is to get the fault codes from it, which I explain in another post in these same forums, if you need a link to it I'll find it. Anyway, you need to find out what sensor or device is causing the problem, and that can be determined by the fault code.

Mark

ok i dont no for sure if it's the ecu but i had one ingintion coil put in there r 2 so cant tell if they are bad but my code said 44 i am still having trouble with my car it has know power it will bog out on me and the i have to rev the car up or put it in nectural and rev it to get my power back so i can go this is consent but if i leave my car run for at least a 1/2 hour in the cold weather it wont bog until i shut it off and have to start it up again to go but in warm weather i can start it up and it wont bog the whole time i drive it i have already spent 8 hundred in trying to get it fixed and am slowing giving up please help it is a 92 eagle talon non turbo

The ecm is actually standing up directly underneath the radio. You need to remove the front carpeted panels under each side of the console, no other panels need to be removed. The carpeted panels are held by two screws on each side, they are covered by a round plastic piece that matches the carpet color, it's about 1" in diameter. They pop out with a screw driver.

The ECM itself is held in place with two screws on each side, which are accessible once you remove those carpeted panels.

It doesn't make much sense to remove it unless you know it's bad. The right thing to do is to get the fault codes from it, which I explain in another post in these same forums, if you need a link to it I'll find it. Anyway, you need to find out what sensor or device is causing the problem, and that can be determined by the fault code.

Mark
i have a 1992 eagle talon non turbo 2.0l i just had a computer module and a oxygen senor put in ,and now my car is still not running right someone told me it has to do with a coil but what coil and how do i know for sure that's it .when i start the car it is fine untill i get moving the engine light comes on when i lose power and then it bogs out on me and the car won't go so i put the car in netural and rev up the engine while im moving and the engine light goes out then i have power again to get going ,but does this all the time i have to keep doing this every time i go somewhere. can someone please help me

[i have a 1992 eagle talon non turbo 2.0l i just had a computer module and a oxygen senor put in ,and now my car is still not running right someone told me it has to do with a coil
my car is mannal i thought that the car wouldnt start at all if the ignition power transistor was bad but i did change one of the ignition coil and it still bogs out and no power but when i let my car run for say 1/2 hour . before pulling out it runs fine but to just start it up and go i have the engine light comes on and no power to go have to put it in nuteral and rev it out to get power the whole time i an driving my car it does this it is drving me crazy so far i have about 8 hundred in it running out of money anything that you can think of that i need to do to my cari now got your mind all messed up lol sorry

honeecone;
Code 44 is indicative of a problem with one of these three things:
1) Ignition power transistor
2) ignition coil
3) The harness and connector for either of the above.

Bear in mind, any fault code registered in the ECM is stored, and will stay stored until you disconnect power to it. You can clear codes from your ECM by disconnecting the + battery cable for about 30 seconds or so. I suggest doing that, then driving the car until the engine light comes on again, then recheck the codes.

If you don't know how to check the codes, it isn't difficult, you just need to know where to hook up a volt meter, and what the codes mean. If you are inclined in this area, get the Haynes manual for your car (about $15)and get a voltmeter (an inexpensive multi-meter would be best). It needs to be analog(not digital)to check for fault codes.

The manual will tell you what the codes mean, and also tells how to check your different sensors and devices.

Mark

[QUOTE=MrZ]honeecone;
Code 44 is indicative of a problem with one of these three things:
1) Ignition power transistor
2) ignition coil
3) The harness and connector for either of the above.

Bear in mind, any fault code registered in the ECM is stored, and will stay stored until you disconnect power to it. You can clear codes from your ECM by disconnecting the + battery cable for about 30 seconds or so. I suggest doing that, then driving the car until the engine light comes on again, then recheck the codes.

If you don't know how to check the codes, it isn't difficult, you just need to know where to hook up a volt meter, and what the codes mean. If you are inclined in this area, get the Haynes manual for your car (about $15)and get a voltmeter (an inexpensive multi-meter would be best). It needs to be analog(not digital)to check for fault codes.

The manual will tell you what the codes mean, and also tells how to check your different sensors and devices.

hi i did that had it taken out and it did come back up as a code 44 i do have the book i did check all the harness and connectors and they looked good but being that i only put in one coil could the other one be bad we did take it out and it looked really good so we put that one back in but i heard that if it was the Ignition power transistor the car woundnt run at all and my car does run . where do you find a multi-meter at and how much do they run

honeecone;
From what you describe, it doesn't sound as though the coil pack or the transistor is the problem, which is why I suggested clearing the codes from the ECM and then checking them again after driving. My understanding is the same as your on the transistor, as far as I know, it either works or it doesn't, and if it doesn't, the car won't start at all.

You can get an inexpensive multimeter at places like Menards, or Home Depot, or probably even Walmart. Not sure what you have up there in Canada. It's just a combination ohmeter and volt tester. I was thinking a bit about this today at work, that is, what would work best for you. Truth is, I often times have a difficult time reading the ohmeter scale on mine, and I would imagine anyone that doesn't use this kind of an instrument regularly would also have some difficulty with it. For this reason, I really would suggest a digital ohmeter for you (and for me!) as it takes out the guess work. However, you need to have an analog voltmeter in order to check the sweeps on the ECM for fault codes. If you have the manual, you know what I'm talking about, each long sweep counts as 10, each short sweep counts as one. It is possible that you can use a 12 volt test light to check for codes, but I haven't tried it. I'm intrigued by the thought of doing so though, and I'm going to give it a try.

You definitely want to have an ohmeter, be it digital or analog (again, I suggest digital because it's easier to read). With it you can check things like your throttle position sensor, throttle stop switch, spark plug wire restistance, etc..

Speaking of spark plug wire resistance, have you checked that? Here's what I'm thinking. When you check your coil packs (look in your manual), you check them one coil at a time, and essentially you are checking for resistance from the coil itself to ground. Coils go bad when they start shorting to ground, they loose their resistance. Now consider the fact that electricity will always seek the path of least resistance. So, if you have high resistance in your spark plug wires, it could be causing the coil(s) to short to ground. This would cause the engine to run poorly, but it would probably cause poor engine performance at all RPM's. I would definitely check the wire resistance, also, you can't tell whether a coil is good or bad just by looking at it, you have to check it for resistance to ground, so that other coil could be bad.

Mark

hi i live in south fork pennsylvania and do have a walmat and home depot up this way i will go out and see if they have one .i did replace all the spark plugs and wires but they could be still bad i will get back to you .ill let you know if i get any codes and what ones

honeecone;
Sorry! I got you mixed up with someone else who is up in Canada.

If you just got your wires, they should be good, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to check the resistance.

Mark

are you talking about the coil wires or the sparkplug wires cause i did 2 sets of sparkplug wires

I suggested checking the resistance on your spark plug wires, not knowing you had recently replaced them. It still wouldn't hurt to check the resistance, but chances are it will be ok.

The coil pack would be more suspsect, in my opinion. Your manual describes how to check the resistance on both coils, even if you have replaced one of them, you should check them both again.

Are you sure that code 44 is the only code stored in the ECM?

Mark

I suggested checking the resistance on your spark plug wires, not knowing you had recently replaced them. It still wouldn't hurt to check the resistance, but chances are it will be ok.

The coil pack would be more suspsect, in my opinion. Your manual describes how to check the resistance on both coils, even if you have replaced one of them, you should check them both again.

Are you sure that code 44 is the only code stored in the ECM?

Mark
hi it says on the paper code 44 ignition signal that was at randall motors where i go for my car on the check diagnostic codes but had to stop going cause i ran out of money ofr them to put back on the machine lol

hi it says on the paper code 44 ignition signal that was at randall motors where i go for my car on the check diagnostic codes but had to stop going cause i ran out of money ofr them to put back on the machine lol
i dont no how to hook up the ohmeter to check anything so if you would give me an example say like to my ignition coil how would i do that

honeecone;
Ok, let's see if I can explain this in a way that helps. When you use an ohmeter you're checking for elecrical resistance. So, if you went out and purchased a multi-meter, turn the dial to the OHM's section. You will have several different scale settings for ohms, something like X100, X1000, X10000. The higher the scale, the more sensitive the ohmeter will be. Start out by turning the dial to any of the ohmeter scale settings, and plug the black and red leads into the receptacles for ohms. They are usually colored or bracketed together on the face of the meter. Touch the other ends of the leads together, and the scale will sweep all the way to the 0 mark. The ohmeter needs to be calibrated regularly while using it, you do this be turning the wheel just under the dial until the needle is exactly at the zero mark while you are touching the leads together. This is zero resistance.

You said you have the Haynes manual for your car, yes? It details how to check your coils for resistance. It's pretty straight forward, and even has pictures of where to put the leads. It specifies whether to use the high scale or the low scale. The high scale would be X10000...the low scale would be X100. Typically when you use the low scale you're looking for infinite resistance, that is, the needle should not move at all when you place the ohmeter leads on the points indicated. When using the high scale you are typically expecting to see some degree of continuity, though it is usually a very high resistance value.

Does that help?

I'm going to go and find another post in which I described how to check the fault codes on the ECM, I'm going to copy and paste it so that I don't have to re-type it.

Mark

honeecone;
Ok, I found it, I pasted it below. Your manual also shows you the location of the small terminal block under your dash, and the tabs where you want to put the leads on the voltmeter. Let me know if you have any problems.

Mark

It's actually pretty easy to check fault codes on your ECM. Under your dash board, on the far left hand side you have your fuse panel. Right next to it on the right hand side is a receptacle which should have a cover on it. All you need is an analog voltmeter to check your codes.

This is how you do it; Get your voltmeter ready, have it set for 1-10 volts ( or 12 if it has that setting) and it helps to have a light under the dash so that you can see better. Turn the ignition key to the position it would be in if the engine were running, that would be one click past the accessory position. Put the postitive lead on the tab on your upper left side, the negative lead on the tab on your lower right side. Now you count the sweeps on your voltmeter. Single digit sweeps are short, the voltmeter will only go about half way through it's travel. Each long sweep (the meter will go all the way over then back) counts as 10 each. So, for example, 2 long sweeps with 2 short sweeps right after would equal code 22.

Bear in mind that the ECM stores most fault codes that it ever encounters, and will display them one after another and then start over again. So, you could have for example, a code 22, followed by a code 24, followed bya code 36, etc. If you had those 3 fault codes in your ECM, again as an example, it would display each, one after the other, then start over again at code 22 and do it again. I would suggest checking your fault codes, right them down, then disconnect the battery positive terminal for about half a minute or so. This will clear the fault codes from the ECM. Take the car out for a drive, come back home, then check them again. Reason I suggest this is because you could have had a fault as long as several years ago, which may have been corrected through some sort of mechanical repair, but it could still be in the ECM if the battery has never been disconnected in that time.