96 Aurora problems all arising @ once........can anyone help

Hi all i'm a newbie to the forum , i was hoping that someone can help
out.......

the problem is that i have a 96 aurora with 116,000 km's on it

my battery just died........
alternator was dead........
have an oil leak somewhere....
also now the "abs" brakes indicator light has been popping up freqently

so the question is .... has anyone else experienced these problems
and have they occured all at once?

also the battery and alternator in the car was all original parts before i replaced them both ............for 1700 big ones ...

anyhow i thank you in advance for the help.

the sandman

Wow, you got ripped BIGTIME on the alt/battery...I ordered a high output alternator (220 amps) for my aurora for 318 dollars and I'm having it put in for 100...Normaly I would put it in myself but the alternator is hiden in that damn overcrowded engine bay and I'm not even gonna try to find it...LoL

A new battery shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred dollars, you could easily fit an Optima RedTop in the stock location with a couple modifications...overall you probably shouldn't have paid over 850 dollars or so for the whole thing...might wanna shop around a little more next time...plus you probably didn't even need a new battery to start with...when an alt goes 9 times out of 10 it will drain your battery dead...a 50 dollar charger PROBABLY would have fixed the battery problem...but its possible that your battery was bad as well....

I had an oil leak around the oil filter on my 95 Aurora when i bought it, I had the dealers mechanic fix it as part of the deal when i bought it...they're known to leak around the filter and the pan...

As far as the ABS I haven't heard many problems with that on the Aurora....you should probably have it checked out...just not by whoever ripped you on that alt/battery ;)

In the last 2 months
A/C compressor, water pump, A/C hose & fuel rail
close to $2000
and now they tell me the head gasket is leaking
It is a 97 with 105000 miles

>>my battery just died........
>>alternator was dead........

Happens one some Auroras. I haven't experienced it but if it is going throuhg alot of alternators it is a combination problem with a bad coil on the pack and a computer problem. When the car is running check to see if the altenator is overcharging the battery (It is if your voltage is over 15.5). If it is this is a sign of a bad Body Control Module I believe, you must replace it with the original GM part and not a refurbished. If you believe this to be the problem, don't buy parts yet, drop me a mail I'm not sure its the BCM, it might be one of the other computers. Sorry but you did get taken on the alternator battery problem. A replacement alterantor is as cheap as $140.00 You can fit almost any high cranking AMP battery into the car with minor modifications. These start around $59.00. GM's OEM battery is about $200.00

>>have an oil leak somewhere....

Common problem, check bottom of oil pan. Northstar engines have a seepage problem. Oil drips VERY slowly from the oil pan seal and collects as a thick coating on the bottom of the pan. It is not a huge problem. Clean the pan now and then with a towel and let it go, it can cost A LOT to fix. If it is dripping then it is likely the plug. Try using some teflon tape on next oil change, if it continues place some cardboard under the car to collect it over night. If isn't dropping anymore then a few drops (a dozen or less) onto the cardboard then don't worry about it.

>>also now the "abs" brakes indicator light has been popping up freqently

Common GM problem related to Wheel Speed Sensors in ALL GM cars. These sensors break easily causing traction control and ABS problems. The front ones are prone to most damage, typical replacement cost is about $20 on normal cars, unfortunately on Aurora's you cannot change the speed sensor without changing the entire Wheel Bearing, this is about a $110 fix per bearing (you'll need to do atleast the fronts). Labor shouldnt be anymore then $50/ per bearing. They probably need repaired anyways on a 116km car, this will also fix any buzzing sound you hear coming frm the front on the highway. If your hard up for cash you get along for awhile with this problem. Your bearings really probably do need replaced. I've heard of people running cars for 2 or more years with the problem apparent. You might make it happen less frequently by turning off the traction control for now on.


>>A/C compressor,

Somewhat Common problem, I believe the new compressor is about $400.00


>>water pump,

I don't know this as a common problem but I know the water pump drive belt does often need replacement. Is your pump not moving at all? Try spinning it iwht the belt off and see if it spins freely.

>>A/C hose & fuel rail

- Not sure about this but, if your fuel rail issue is related to a surging from the engine then it is not your rail it is your fuel pressure regulator. Costs about $111.00

>>and now they tell me the head gasket is leaking

This problem is likely related to the oil seepage issue above.


Guys this is not intended to be professional advice. I just know alot of what has worked for me and some other guys who own this car. Feel free to e-mail if you need help. I'll do what I can.

It was leaking coolant. GM seal-tabs fixed it :)

It was leaking coolant. GM seal-tabs fixed it :)
what exactly do these seal tabs do? I'm losing coolant... cant see where its leaking from...but i can smell it in the engine compartment.....

Can you elaborate please?

Seal tabs are pellets that are ground up and placed into the cooling resevoir they go through the motor and seal any imperfections. I've heard good th ings and bad things about these. GM reccomends but some will say that these can cause clogs. Some swear by them. I myself used them but just so you know....

Where is your leaking coming from? If it is coming from the front passenger side then it is probably the radiator. Another common problem where hairline cracks originate from the plastic housing at the point where the upper radiator hose enters. There is a front metal clip connected by 2 bolts on each side and 4 or 5 in the middle. This is the peice in the front of the engine compartment with all the warnings on it.

Remove this being careful not to pull too hard as the upper radiator hose is attached by some clips to the bottom of it. Just pull the plastic clips from the metal clip.

I would do this with the engine completely cool for your and your cars safety. Once it is off check the upper passenger side of the radiator. If you see the cracks you can try to hunt down some of the stuff i used to patch my radiator. See link:

http://www.digiclipse.com/images/radiatorfix.jpg

I used this stuff on the outside, you mash the compond together and then press it into the crack, this stuff hardens after about 20 minutes to rock hard and sets in about 3 hours total, after this you can drive the car. It is not a total fix but will buy you a few months before having to replace the radiator. Radiators seem to go for about $200 but aftermarkets seem to have some issues so I would look into the AC Delcos for about $350-$400 if this is your problem. Everyone might want to look at this as it is a common issue. My car started by dropping a few drops and then moved to puddles depending on how much i drove the car..;..

The seal tabs I am referring to come from GM, they are less than 10 dollars. GM recommends putting them in any time the cooling system is serviced, they in fact, put them in at the factory. There is a sticker under the hood about it, as well as TSB's about it. They DO NOT go in the resivoir. You need to remove the bottom radiator hose and put them in through there if you want to do it right. I dont think they will stop a big leak. Mine was dripping a spot about the size of a dime every 2 or 3 days...

ah... i see... ithink my problem maybe a little more severe... i can actually smell the coolant in the engine compartment.... I just hope it isnt a blown head gasket

I have had 2 coolant leak problems so far.. at about 80,000 the plastic end cap of the radiator started leaking... then at about 100,000 the water pump went..whatever you do, dont let that motor overheat

braught the car to the dealership this morning for the $150 full diagnostics ... i have some other issues with the car...... I'm waiting on the "verdict" I'll have to make a decision on whether or not I'll keep the car ....If its a blown head gasket i'll probably say ... bye bye

jim56, with today's quality standards, thats a really good service life from both of those components.

joeinc, just a few drops of hot or vaporized coolant gives off a very strong odor. Good luck with the diagnostic!

jim56, with today's quality standards, thats a really good service life from both of those components.

joeinc, just a few drops of hot or vaporized coolant gives off a very strong odor. Good luck with the diagnostic!

I'm not complaining. Only real prob was the water pump, fuel rail, and A/C compressor ( heck, At 100k an A/C compressor is almost scheduled maintenance for a Gm car :) )all went out within about a month.. Was a lot of money all at once. I change the oil and filter every 3000 miles and really take good care of it. Nobody that sees it or rides in it can beleive it is a 97 with 108,000 miles on it.. It still drives great....Wife just headed to Miami in it- about 650 miles one way from here.....I will probably buy another one when I get this one paid for...

Sandman it sounds like you are going trough all the problems that I just have.My alternator packed it in while driving,just as I got to my mechanic the battery died due to the lack of charge. I replaced the alternator and had the battery charged. As far as the abs,if you take your car in and have them put the computer on it they will be able to tell you which wheel bearing is acting up. I take it from your name that you live in Toronto,I do as well and I think there was something more corrosive added to the salt on our roads last winter.I had to replace both wheel bearings on the front as one mechanically broke and the sensor in the other one went causing the abs light to come on and the traction to go off. As for your oil leak, like most have said unless it is major,don't worry about it as most of these have seepage from the oil pan gasket and isn't worth the money to fix it. The antifreeze you are smelling is more than likely coming from a small hole in the water pump when the seal slowly goes.It was found on mine when thew alternator went.Check under the small pulley on the driver side and if you can see antifreeze there then it is you water pump. If it is the pump have the thermostat replaced while the pump is out. I hope this helps, as the problems sound the same as what I have had done and mine had just went over 200,000km

I guess we all have the same or similar problems with this car... I have also replaced the AC compressor and alternator. No battery yet. Dealer called and said they'd let me know about my leak tomorrow but they say it's probably not the head gasket. They somehow checked the exhaust??? If they can keep the bill under $1,500 I'll be happy. So far they told me I need tie rod ends, front rotors need to be cut (had brake rotors replaced by someone else during recent brake job) and a door lock actuator. I'm hoping the leak is from the water pump.

On another note...I know this is also a common problem... I've had my bumpers re-sprayed about evey year... Its a white car...and every year the paint starts to chip off.....Someone told me there's a special paint for these bumpers that reduces the chipping... anyone know what it's called?

The paint shop is probably not adding a flex agent to the mix to save a little money. Insist on the correct mixture whatever shop you use. Just be specific about the problem you're having and any reputable business should have at least a year guarantee on the finish.

joeinc, my drivers door doesn't lock/unlock with the rest of them.
Did you get yours fixed? Actuator?
I think thats my problem