Stroker kit then turbo?

Hi my buddy and i r recently building a 96 civic dx hb. We r planing on building a b18c1 but we rnt sure weather or not to put a stroker kit on it. We want to put a stroker kit on it to get the compersion up and then would like to turbo and be pushin out 20 psi. We have no clue on weather or not the motor could handle it or not but any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Umm, you want to make the compression higher? Are you going to run race gas, or pump gas?
No offense, but it looks like you don't have half a clue to what you are talking about. :confused:
20 PSI will not hold up on the stock sleeves, or the stock pistons and rods-but of course you would be replacing the stock pistons and rods with the stroker kit.
Putting in a stroker kit is really a good way to be king of the street. It increases your torque tremendously. But there is a drawback, you cannot rev your engine as high because the longer stroke creates more stress in the engine and things tend to fly apart at high RPM's.
You can run up to about 14-15 PSI safely on the stock sleeves. If you want to get the stroker kit with 9:1 compression dished pistons. 9:1 compression will work on pump gas up to 20 PSI with GOOD tuning.

Pwman is right. You have to careful stroking an engine. Plus on top of that you are talking about adding a turbo on top of that? Remember the higher the RPM's the faster the turbo spins.....the more power. Stroker kit limits RPMs..thus limiting power that can be created by a turbo.

So what rpm would u recommend for a shift point? And yes i wouldnt be able to run 20 psi on stock sleeves.thanks

Depends on how much you are stroking it. How much?
But for general purposes I am going to say about 7K RPM, maybe 7500 if built really strong I.E. good and strong rotating assembly including ARP rod bolts.

Remember the higher the RPM's the faster the turbo spins.....the more power. Stroker kit limits RPMs..thus limiting power that can be created by a turbo.

That won't matter. By the time the decreased redline comes into play, the boost controller would've already taken effect. The turbo will be spinning faster and flowing more air but the boost won't be any higher.

That won't matter. By the time the decreased redline comes into play, the boost controller would've already taken effect. The turbo will be spinning faster and flowing more air but the boost won't be any higher.
There's no way to say that with any accuracy. You don't know what turbo he's going to run, or how much boost.

There's no way to say that with any accuracy. You don't know what turbo he's going to run, or how much boost.

Yes I actually can.

Yes I actually can.
How so? How about an explaination?
CFM is only affect by housing size changes, more displacement doesn't gove you more CFM from the turbo. The turbo is not going to be spinning faster. Increased boost is what makes the turbo spin faster.

How so? How about an explaination?
CFM is only affect by housing size changes, more displacement doesn't gove you more CFM from the turbo. The turbo is not going to be spinning faster. Increased boost is what makes the turbo spin faster.

We're talking about a b18c here. A stroker will stroke it to 2L. A ct26, which is a stock mr2 turbo (small), can put out 18 psi @ about 7000 rpm's on a 3sgte, which my friend's dad did do. I'm sure when this guy buys a turbo kit, it will come with a considerably bigger turbo which should be able to put out 20psi @ 8,000 rpm's. Whatever turbo kit he buys should be capable of flowing enough air to put out 20psi @ the roughly 8,000 rpm's he's gonna be hitting. .2 liters isn't really all that much displacement and although the engine will be eating more air at a lower rpm, the turbo is probably (almost definately) capable of it. I would be seriously suprised if he had a problem. Shit...he can just buy a b20b turbo kit. End of problem.

We're talking about a b18c here. A stroker will stroke it to 2L. A ct26, which is a stock mr2 turbo (small), can put out 18 psi @ about 7000 rpm's on a 3sgte, which my friend's dad did do. I'm sure when this guy buys a turbo kit, it will come with a considerably bigger turbo which should be able to put out 20psi @ 8,000 rpm's. Whatever turbo kit he buys should be capable of flowing enough air to put out 20psi @ the roughly 8,000 rpm's he's gonna be hitting. .2 liters isn't really all that much displacement and although the engine will be eating more air at a lower rpm, the turbo is probably (almost definately) capable of it. I would be seriously suprised if he had a problem. Shit...he can just buy a b20b turbo kit. End of problem.
Well maybe you should stick to toyota's or something. Just because a kit is for a B20 doesn't mean that's the turbo he wants. I have seen B20 kits that come with a T25 turbo. I have also seen T66 turbos in a kit for a B20, just a slight difference :screwy:
Anyway, you would have to put some serious money into a stroker to have it rev to 8K without flying apart. 7K is usually the max for a stroker unless you sink some serious money into it.
Best thing to do is not to stroke it at all. The B18C1 comes with a decent rod/stroke ratio so why mess it up?

sorry to dig up an old thread, but as i was reading it i felt like i needed to give my .02

first, the ct26 turbo (which came in the first and second generation 3SGTE) is a very slow spooling and inefficient turbo, it shouldn't be hard to find a turbo that spools faster to 20psi

second, if you want to turbo a honda engine, i suggest the B16. yes, you lose .2L from the b18, but the B16 has a 1.74:1 rod to stroke ratio which is damn near geometrically perfect meaning that you can rev the engine to damn near 18k with some forged internals without placin much stress on the side walls of the combustion chamber

more rpm = more boost = a lot more high end power

Matt