Getting Codes

How do I get codes from the computer on my 94 metro? Where can I get info on what the codes mean? The local parts stores don't have a Chilton or Haynes book for this car either so I'm stuck trying to figure out the problem myself.

there's an empty fuse slot in the fuse cluster under the dash. stick a fuse in it, and turn the key to ON, and it'll flip you some codes. I've got a code book here, so just reply with the codes, and i'll tell you what it means. and btw, what is it doing?

After it warms up, it misses on idle and acts like it's noy getting enough fuel on a dead stop acceleration. I have to "flutter" the pedal a bit and then it takes off like nothing is wrong. I've checked the cap and rotor and plugs and all look fine. I messed with (messed= I don't really know what I'm doing) the throttle position sensor and the idle and it didn't get any better, so I put those settings back where they were. I was hoping a code would tell me more, such as the O2 sensor or map sensor were bad.

i got a cde 31 on my 1995 eo metro what does it mean and how do i fix

31
Pressure Sensor Circuit

After it warms up, it misses on idle and acts like it's noy getting enough fuel on a dead stop acceleration. I have to "flutter" the pedal a bit and then it takes off like nothing is wrong. I've checked the cap and rotor and plugs and all look fine. I messed with (messed= I don't really know what I'm doing) the throttle position sensor and the idle and it didn't get any better, so I put those settings back where they were. I was hoping a code would tell me more, such as the O2 sensor or map sensor were bad.

Well as it is possible that you could have a TPS issue I am more inclined to think -
1.) You have a vacuum leak.
2.) Your fuel pump is marginal. (Is it noisy when you turn the key "on"?)
3.) Your ECU temp sensor is not telling the computer the right information.
4.) Your pressure regulator has hardened.

Your car is old, like mine, and do you know the condition of your regulator diaphram or if the ECU temp sender has been replaced? The TPS is simple enough to test and you should make sure that the idle switch contained within it is adjusted properly.
I recently replaced my regulator diaphram ( it had hardened ).
I also replaced the ecu sensor, air temp sensor, O2 sensor. I think the total I paid for the parts was around $80. These parts did make an improvement but I would still have a occasional hesitation.

Now someone could say "Look, he's throwing parts at his car!" and I say "No, I am replacing wearing parts that really should be included in 60K mile tune-ups." But what really fooled me was the fuel pump. At idle and even when the engine was reved unloaded, the fuel pressure was correct. But once under load and when engine was at speed there simply was not enough flow to sustain the necessary pressure. Once I replaced my pump I enjoy better startups, acceleration, and that strange pinging/smoking vanished. That said I wonder how many strange running conditions each of us encounter are because our fuel pumps are working, but not correctly. Oh! Am how evil it is for parts companies to charge over $200 for such a tiny, mouse-like pump. (The one in my BMW was only $75 and its a BOSCH)

DieInterim

31
Pressure Sensor Circuit
ok how do i fix it or is it caused by the burnt valve on number 2 cyl.

ok how do i fix it or is it caused by the burnt valve on number 2 cyl.

It could. It could also be a serious air leak in the intake system. But wht the code means more precisely is -
low manifold pressure is sensed and a low signal is being sent to the computer.

It also could mean you have a problem with the hose leading to the MAP sensor. I would go down to a good wrecker/friend, and see if they will let you swap in another MAP sensor. If problem persists you may have a faulty ECU.

Blake

Oh! And have you rechecked your camshaft timing?

Hi im new to the forum and just bought a 1993 geo metro and now my check engine light is on and its flashing code 12 can anyone please tell me what this code is? I'd really appreciate it thanks bobbie

Code 12 means that the system is checking out OK. When you check for codes, it should flash the code 2 or 3 times, then flash another code. Double check that all that is coming on is a 12. If the check engine light is on, there should be another code other than 12 stored in there.

Hi and thanks for reply its only flashing once and then right after 2 times quickly thats it not showing another code at all, The engine light stays on ive disconnected the battery to try and reset it and no luck do you know how to shut the engine light off? if its ok then the flashing is driving me nuts! thanks so much for your help bobbie

Well you really shouldn't disable the engine light. Sounds like it could be a faulty ECM, or a loose ground, causing the ECM to malfunction in some way. I'm fairly new to Geos, so someone else could answer this question better...at least until I get my own service manual on the car, lol. But anyway, good luck.

Dan

Thanks so much for help looking for the manual now appreciate it much thanks bobbie

If "the flashing light is driving you nuts", then perhaps you have not taken the fuse back out of the test socket. That fuse only goes in to check the codes, then you remove it or else the light keeps flashing.

Thanks again for you help yes that was the answer it was the test fuse checked all the fuses and that was still in there taa daaa no more flashing yeah!! thanks again bobbie

Hello, in a related question, I have a 1995 Geo Metro, 3-cyl, 5-sp, 2-dr hatch.
The check enging light is on steady. The sticker under the hood states the system is OBD-1. How do I get the code to determine the problem.
Background: Won't pass California smog due to check enging light on, and CO is way-high. Evidently there are TWO catalytic converters on this puppy. One directly at the exhaust manifold and another under the car. I had the under the car one replaced ($140) already, but need to clear that engine light to pass smog in CA. Thx...