Is good air conditioning absent from Durango?

I have been sweating all summer in my 2002 Durango RT. The A/C is pitifully anemic both in front and rear. The Dodge dealer in Gilbert, AZ insists that it is functioning as per Dodge requirements. Shameful for a $35k vehicle. Does anyone know of a potential AC upgrade for the Durango?

I've got the same problem with my 2002. I've got a digital thermometer in the A/C duct and it will only pull down to about 50 degrees on a hot day. I've got a buddy who has a Dodge Ram and he can get his down to 34 degrees!! I've taken it to the dealer (it's under warranty) three times and they told me "it's within specs". I finally called the local auto A/C shop in town and they told me that they have had FIVE Durangos in with the same problem. Couldn't get ANY of them below 50 degrees (in fact, he told me if I could get 50 on a hot day, I was doing good!). He said his best customer's daughter is about to sell hers now because of the A/C problem. I bought mine for only $22,000 last fall with only 8,000 miles on it. Guess that's why they sold it: went through one summer with sorry A/C and sold it when the weather got cool!

If anyone knows a remedy, I would be grateful!! I don't want to sell it because I pull a horse trailer and don't want to get a truck (this auto doubles as the family's main car for vacations and all).

I have a 1998 SLT and it has the same problem both front and back. Would love to here if there is a solution for better AC but, if the dealership can't fix it I would be suprised if there is one. They won't fix mine either.

I've been doing some digging and here is what I now know. If you put your hand on the black plastic casing of the heater core/air conditioning coil under the dash, you will see that it is VERY hot! I did the same on my 1995 Mecury Villager Van and it is warm to the touch, but nothing like the Durango. Also, if you leave a digital thermometer sensor down the a/c duct AFTER you park the durango and shut it off, the temperature will read in excess of 120 degrees. I believe that either the duct which passes air across the heater core is not shutting all the way, OR the heater core is passing antifreeze across it all the time instead of just when the heater is on. There should be a valve that shuts off coolant to the heater core when the vehicle is NOT calling for heat, but there is no way that the casing surrounding the coils/fans under the dash should be that hot. I would suggest you do the same thing to see if yours is that hot and we may have a pattern. I believe that the air across the a/c coil IS in fact cold enough, but it's getting overpowered by heat coming from somewhere else. I am going to talk to the local A/C shop about this and see if it rings a bell with them. I am getting absolutely ZERO help from my dealer!!

You may be on to something. My AC sucks too. Especially the rear. Good thing we don't need it much in OR.

Many modern vehicles don't use a valve to stop coolant from flowing into the heater core. Rather a flap is moved to slow or stop the flow of air through the core. I had a Blazer that worked that way. Turn the knob and you could hear "pshshshshshsh.... thump"

I have a 2000 Durango R/T and notice the A/C is not so good but I also noticed something else. Run your A/C in vent mode. You will definitely know this problem will affect your A/C. When in vent mode. At idle and vehicle not moving, temperature coming out the vents can reach up to 30 degrees above outside ambient temperature. Once the vehicle starts to move up around 30 mph or more, the vent temperature will eventually equal the outside ambient temperature. I took this information back to the dealer and explain to them. But as usual, they tell you that the system is within design specs. Durangos do not use a manual valve that cuts off the flow of antifreeze to the heater core which they should. My 92 Nissan Maxima does that and boy, A/C can freeze you to death in teh summer! Anyways, as PopKorn stated, most vehicles just use flappers and or panels to block and seal off the flow of air to the heater core. My suspicions that it may be a poorly insulation problem and the excess heat is penetrating the plastic/metal housing and thus warming the air. My solution to this is going out and buy a manual bypass valve and a T-Valve. So during the hot summer days, when you definitely don't need heating, I just turn the bypass valve to flow the antifreeze back to the return hose and skipping the heater core all together. Now my A/C is running super cold all the time!!!

A quick update. I just had my heater core replaced on my Durango from a good mechanic friend of mine. He inspected the vent doors and everything and they seemed to be in working order. After he put everything back together [Dash and all], my overheating vent [non-a/c mode] in cold settings mode disappeared? The mechanic cannot figure this out either. Go figure. Now I can cruise around town at low speeds or sit at idle and my vents are still the same as outside ambient temperature! Cannot wait until the summer gets here to see how cold my A/C gets now!

Guys, I did auto A/C repair for about 15 years. If I had one that I thought was a heating problem I would take a pair of vice grips and a thick rag, so as not to cut the hose, and temporarily clamp off the hose going to the heater and see if that fixes the problem if so check the in line valve if no valve then install one. C - Clamp can be used in place of vice grips. Flapper and vacuum replacements in the dash are a headache and expensive. The valve installation is far easier and less expensive. I think you are on the right track with the hot water flow being your problem. A lot of times todays A/C mechanics are hired on the grounds that they have a license to handle refrigerants, of all the tests I have taken in different states to handle refrigerants not a one of them required any knowledge of working on the system itself.

I see it's been since Aug that anyone has posted, but I figured I would jump on the band wagon.

I am having the same issue with my 99 Durango. Dealer said it was the condersor?

Now that it is winter my heater does the same thing, no heat @ idle, when I start moving it starts to work.

Any idea what would cause A/C and the heater not to work @ idle?

I see it's been since Aug that anyone has posted, but I figured I would jump on the band wagon.

I am having the same issue with my 99 Durango. Dealer said it was the condersor?

Now that it is winter my heater does the same thing, no heat @ idle, when I start moving it starts to work.

Any idea what would cause A/C and the heater not to work @ idle?

Sounds like a vacuum problem? Or possibly your actuator that moves the door that directs the air flow?

OK guys, here is the deal... I've had the same problem on my 2003 R/T. Had it into the dealer 5 times and they finally tore the entire dash and heating compartment apart. Told me they found 2 actuators that were not closing all the way. How bad was it? They told me they were open 1/8 to 1/4 inch and that was the problem. Took a week to get the parts. When I got it back...no improvement. So I started working on it myself.

If you can believe it, there is actually a pump in the system that flows hot water to the heater core when you move the temp selector over half way across. Below that point, the pump is off, but hot water is flowing constantly to the heater core which is not shielded from the interior of the car. It's radiant heat is what is heating up the plastic ducting and any air in the interior compartment that flow over it's exposed plastic cover. The only way to get your vehicle cool is to install a shutoff valve in the line. Dodge claims the A/C is functioning properly if it will cool the air coming from the duct to 20 degrees below the incoming air...not a high standard. Getting your system emptied and recharged will probably help, but will not solve the heater core problem. If you want cool....install the valve.

Just and update. It's summer and my Front A/C vents on my 00 Durango R/T is pulling 33 degrees!!! This A/C started to work as it should be after my mechanic changed out my blown heater core. As stated in my eariler post, I am pretty sure this has something to do with the air baffle door not closing right or not aligned right to make it air tight. I was getting 50-55 degrees on max A/C before my heater core blew out. Dealer that checked my vent doors said it was closing good. Now I know they are lying out their teeth. My mechanic said for them to check that, they have to tear down the dash to get to the box to visually know that. It was a 8 hour job tearing down the dash and putting it back together after you change out the heater core.

One advice if anyone has a blown heater core. Buy it from the dealership. Dealership offers a 3/36 part warranty on the core. Core runs around $150 I think. Just make sure you do a visual inspection of the core before you walk out the door with it. Found some cores at the dealership to be not in too good of shape. rust, dings, bents, etc... It was not until the parts guy brought down the 3rd core off the shelf that was in brand new looking shape!!!

I have a 99 Durango, live in NJ and my A/C is so cold I have to turn it down, even on the hottest days. I have had the vehicle for 68,000 miles and never noticed any problems.

My '98 Durango is suffering from the A/C dilemna also. My question is: Does the A/C start out cold, then get progressively worse as the engine warms up, or does it start out blowing semi-cool air? My reasoning says that if the problem stems from the heater core contributing to the problem, then the air should be cold when you first start up. My Durango blows cool sometime, sometime not. It never is cold enough to satisfy us on a hot day. I started a new thread about this this morning, and seriously considering a class action suit. any thoughts?

My '98 Durango is suffering from the A/C dilemna also. My question is: Does the A/C start out cold, then get progressively worse as the engine warms up, or does it start out blowing semi-cool air? My reasoning says that if the problem stems from the heater core contributing to the problem, then the air should be cold when you first start up. My Durango blows cool sometime, sometime not. It never is cold enough to satisfy us on a hot day. I started a new thread about this this morning, and seriously considering a class action suit. any thoughts?

One thing I would check is to make sure your baffle door is sealed good. I guess even on a cool day and your engine being cold, I guess it can still mix your cold air with outside air? Hopefully you know a trusted mechanic that can try to look at this for you without having to go too deep into the system short of taking the dash off.

In the beginning, I wasn't getting the cooling it should have. After the A/C checks out and you can see the return line to the a/c compressor is chilling really good. So the final culprit must be the Air ducting system is poorly designed. In a good way when my heater core went out and my personal mechanic had to tear down the dash and disassemble the heater core/AC core box. When he put the stuff back together, he made sure everything was closing tight and no leaks. Since then, my A/C system is now chilling like it is suppose to. I rarely have to put it past the 2nd notch on the blower speed to keep the interior cold on a hot summer's day.

One thing I would check is to make sure your baffle door is sealed good. I guess even on a cool day and your engine being cold, I guess it can still mix your cold air with outside air? Hopefully you know a trusted mechanic that can try to look at this for you without having to go too deep into the system short of taking the dash off.

In the beginning, I wasn't getting the cooling it should have. After the A/C checks out and you can see the return line to the a/c compressor is chilling really good. So the final culprit must be the Air ducting system is poorly designed. In a good way when my heater core went out and my personal mechanic had to tear down the dash and disassemble the heater core/AC core box. When he put the stuff back together, he made sure everything was closing tight and no leaks. Since then, my A/C system is now chilling like it is suppose to. I rarely have to put it past the 2nd notch on the blower speed to keep the interior cold on a hot summer's day.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have been ripped off for diagnostic services and evac and recharge, when what I should have done is go to this website first. Live and learn. 'Bout the time I'm getting ready to die, I get smart. Figures.

We all have been there. This site helped me alot to know my 00 R/T durango much better. If you want to know even more, there is a dedicated message forum site for Dodge/Chrysler enthusiats. That site has much much more information strictly for Chrysler/Dodge products as well as knowing what future production vehicles will be out soon.

http://www.dodgeforum.com

I am known there as Kensai

One thing to try is to temporary bypass the heater core by pulling out both the heater hoses from the engine side of the firewall and join the hoses together with a coupling. See if your A/C Temperature improves. Also, check your airflow coming out of the vents? At high speeds, does it feel like high speed? I guess you will only know this if you know a fellow with another durango. If the heater core bypass makes a difference, it could be the baffle door not shutting tight or not insulated well that switches you between cold and hot air. If you are not getting good air flow, it could also be because the baffle door being stuck at a position where it combines cold/hot air or there could be an obstruction somewhere in the core.

My fellow co-worker owns a 2001 durango and his A/C is running cold but the airflow coming out of the front vents does not have too much air flow. Thus why he complains the durango doesn't feel like it is cold in the compartment. His high speed is similar to my 2nd speed setting. Now he is taking his in to check for air flow problems.

Good luck and hopefully your A/C system is Air control related like mine. If someone tells you that they checked and said that they can see the baffles shutting tight, have them show you to see with your own eyes and see how they react? Because my mechanic says, there is no way to see it without tearing down the dash to get to the A/C Heater core assembly to know that. The core is not even accessible from the engine side of the firewall.

I doubt the dealer would waste a basic diagnostics charge on a all day tear down/reassemble on the dash unless you get charged an arm and a leg for it.

Tommy

Thanks to both of you guys. I think I'm on to something here, so will do the heater hose bypass this weekend and see what happens.

September 15:

So here I am now in mid September, and in Austin it is HOT. 93 today and humid as heck. I did the heater hose bypass this past weekend, and it did help. Thing is, it is fine now as long as you are driving at normal speeds, but if you slow down for an extended time, or in stop and go traffic, then the air starts warming up. My thought process says the condenser is not funtioning properly, maybe clogged coil? Any way to cure this without replacing the condenser? Am I correct in suspecting the condenser?

I live in Dubai and it is starting to get warm now. I have had my heater hoses disconnected for years to overcome the overheating problem with my 2003 5.9L Durango SLT and my A/C is no better. A couple of things that seem to make things a bit better:
1. The shared front back and up/down setting seems to work better than any other with the rear A/C off. That's fully counter clockwise.
2. If you are driving under 40 mph switch the overdrive off.
Now that gets me to thinking one of the problems could be the compressor is not rotating fast enough to push out enough low temperature coolant. When I cruise on the highway my revs are at about 2000 and that doesn't work the A/C system hard enough.
I am off to the 3M shop this month to get some heavy duty tinting done.

Do you have your ac fixed or not.I also have the same issue with Durango 2003 and the problem comes out to be in the actuator.

I know this thread is a very old one.....but it is a very legitimate problem with these Durangos.
02 Dingo- same ac problem. Solved!
I wound up stripping the efan and mechanical fan. Put in a BMW dual temperature switch and a Volvo fan controller along with a Ford Taurus efan. It's all automatic. No on-dash switches etc. Had to remove dash to replace all motors that control the air vents, might as well. Went with oem from eBay. While I was there I completely insulated the entire ac/heater plenum. Now the ac will freeze you out in these extreme temperatures here in Phoenix Az. Plus, the engine temperature gauge never gets past the half-way mark.
Dodge never really put much thought into the ac systems on these Durangos for the desert heat.(pretty much all the big 3) had to modify the ac and cooling system on my Town Car as well.
In Arizona, you pretty much gotta go full hog to get your ac and cooling system working properly on these Durangos.
Hope this helps someone.

Hello everyone, I'm new here and have a question concerning the Dodge Durango heater core bypass process.

I have a 2001 Durango and like many others here have a great deal of trouble with the A/C system. I'm thinking the heater core bypass is something I'd like to try.

With only a shut off valve added to the input hose, when closed will it cause any harmful back pressure in the system? I see the one valve shut off as a good easier way to eliminate heat but I want to be safe.

Would it be better to have a combination shut off and bypass system acting together? Isolate the heater core and fluid flow back into the system?

I'm handy but I want to be safe also. I'd appreciate your input and suggestions. My Durango at it's best gives me around 60-65 degrees when the ambient temperature is 95 degrees. Everything is fine in the system when it's started in the morning when it's cool outside and the engine is cool also. I've had it to about 48 degrees. In mid afternoon when the engine is hot and that inlet heater core hose is hot my A/C efficiency goes downhill. I see I'm not the only one with that problem. Dodge has no clue!

Thank You For Your Help!

billp1949

Still having issues with your Dingo?

The only way I get ice cold air on my 99 is to run AC in "max" mode. In that mode if I'm not mistaken it recirculates the cabin air instead of trying to cool down incoming hot air. As the cabin air gets cooler its easier for system to cool it done even more. In that mode I actually have to turn it down after 20 minutes cause its too cold. If your getting 50 degrees out of your vents count your blessings. At any rate what really makes it feel cooler is the AC pulling all the humidity out.