engine running really rough
foof187
08-08-2003, 02:09 AM
hello i am new here. me and my friend have recently come across an 83 b2000. it is running really poorly and we dont have a clue really as to what it could be. You have to pump the gas pedal to get any kind of acceleration out of it. if you push the pedal down like you normally would it just sputters and misses. every now and then it will fire right and you will jump forward for a second. this is getting very annoying as we like to go out and put it throught its paces on dirt and mud and we are having to continually pump the gas. i was thinking that is might be something wrong with the carb though it is supposed to be a new carb that has been worked on in a shop here in town within the last 2 years. another suggestion was that it might be a sheared distributor pin causing the timing to be off. if anyone has had this sort of problem with any of their vehicles or just has a suggestion please respond as i would love to get this beast running like it should. thanks
jackf
09-28-2003, 05:21 PM
have you tried a new fuel filter or maybe a tune up? (spark plugs and wires)
86mazdaB2000
03-05-2008, 08:56 PM
hello i am new here. me and my friend have recently come across an 83 b2000. it is running really poorly and we dont have a clue really as to what it could be. You have to pump the gas pedal to get any kind of acceleration out of it. if you push the pedal down like you normally would it just sputters and misses. every now and then it will fire right and you will jump forward for a second. this is getting very annoying as we like to go out and put it throught its paces on dirt and mud and we are having to continually pump the gas. i was thinking that is might be something wrong with the carb though it is supposed to be a new carb that has been worked on in a shop here in town within the last 2 years. another suggestion was that it might be a sheared distributor pin causing the timing to be off. if anyone has had this sort of problem with any of their vehicles or just has a suggestion please respond as i would love to get this beast running like it should. thanks
Did you know that half the threads i've read in this column are basically the same question. This is apparently very common.
It appears to be 1-5 things.
1. Vacuum lies+
2./ 3./ 4. Carburetor/choke/stock suggested air filter(apparently important)
4. Vehicle specific timing
These are 3 ways that I have documented in my reading (as I also have the same problem), that others have finally found some or complete sucess.
------------------------------
Common complaints:
Lean fuel at high speeds/ bucking and loosing power while cruising. Irregular idle/ shuts off applying brakes while moving. Pumping the gas pedal to restore proper acceleration.
One guy exclaims, I HAVE FINALLY FIGURED IT OUT!!!
Here is his post:
I HAVE SOLVED THE PROBLEM.......TURNED OUT TO BE THE CARBURETORS SECONDARY VACUUM DIAPHRAGM...was slightly cracked, creating a vacuum leak (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/../#), and not opening the secondary properly, and allowing it to close when at higher rpms, starving the engine of gas and air...created rather odd symptoms while driving, but makes sense now that its fixed....i hope that this post helps someone else with similar problems...just go rebuild the carb throughly
Definitely work to restore your vacuum lines to optimal. They are in the owners repair manual. find one at Mazda? ebay?
Here is a link to help this is very helpful, including vacuum diagrams for many models, his website is mazda specific, it's really great, you'll see.
http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/Vacuum.html
I Personally think that the carburetor and vacuum lines are the kicker. Although the timing is very important, really observing the symptoms leads me back to air.
The cotrolled furnace of the engine needs air at the right mixture or it chokes and dies... pointing right to the caruretor.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/f301-b_series_bravo_bounty_drifter.html
Did you know that half the threads i've read in this column are basically the same question. This is apparently very common.
It appears to be 1-5 things.
1. Vacuum lies+
2./ 3./ 4. Carburetor/choke/stock suggested air filter(apparently important)
4. Vehicle specific timing
These are 3 ways that I have documented in my reading (as I also have the same problem), that others have finally found some or complete sucess.
------------------------------
Common complaints:
Lean fuel at high speeds/ bucking and loosing power while cruising. Irregular idle/ shuts off applying brakes while moving. Pumping the gas pedal to restore proper acceleration.
One guy exclaims, I HAVE FINALLY FIGURED IT OUT!!!
Here is his post:
I HAVE SOLVED THE PROBLEM.......TURNED OUT TO BE THE CARBURETORS SECONDARY VACUUM DIAPHRAGM...was slightly cracked, creating a vacuum leak (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/../#), and not opening the secondary properly, and allowing it to close when at higher rpms, starving the engine of gas and air...created rather odd symptoms while driving, but makes sense now that its fixed....i hope that this post helps someone else with similar problems...just go rebuild the carb throughly
Definitely work to restore your vacuum lines to optimal. They are in the owners repair manual. find one at Mazda? ebay?
Here is a link to help this is very helpful, including vacuum diagrams for many models, his website is mazda specific, it's really great, you'll see.
http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/Vacuum.html
I Personally think that the carburetor and vacuum lines are the kicker. Although the timing is very important, really observing the symptoms leads me back to air.
The cotrolled furnace of the engine needs air at the right mixture or it chokes and dies... pointing right to the caruretor.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/f301-b_series_bravo_bounty_drifter.html
86mazdaB2000
03-05-2008, 09:32 PM
hello i am new here. me and my friend have recently come across an 83 b2000. it is running really poorly and we dont have a clue really as to what it could be. You have to pump the gas pedal to get any kind of acceleration out of it. if you push the pedal down like you normally would it just sputters and misses. every now and then it will fire right and you will jump forward for a second. this is getting very annoying as we like to go out and put it throught its paces on dirt and mud and we are having to continually pump the gas. i was thinking that is might be something wrong with the carb though it is supposed to be a new carb that has been worked on in a shop here in town within the last 2 years. another suggestion was that it might be a sheared distributor pin causing the timing to be off. if anyone has had this sort of problem with any of their vehicles or just has a suggestion please respond as i would love to get this beast running like it should. thanks
Did you know that half the threads i've read in this column are basically the same question. This is apparently very common.
It appears to be 1-5 things.
1. Vacuum lies+
2./ 3./ 4. Carburetor/choke/stock suggested air filter(apparently important)
4. Vehicle specific timing
5. Soleniod(never heard any responses about this one).
These are 3 ways that I have documented in my reading (as I also have the same problem), that others have finally found some or complete sucess.
------------------------------
Common complaints:
Lean fuel at high speeds/ bucking and loosing power while cruising. Irregular idle/ shuts off applying brakes while moving. Pumping the gas pedal to restore proper acceleration.
One guy exclaims, I HAVE FINALLY FIGURED IT OUT!!!
Here is his post:
I HAVE SOLVED THE PROBLEM.......TURNED OUT TO BE THE CARBURETORS SECONDARY VACUUM DIAPHRAGM...was slightly cracked, creating a
(WOOPS (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/../#)
vacuum leak and not opening the secondary properly, and allowing it to close when at higher rpms, starving the engine of gas and air...created rather odd symptoms while driving, but makes sense now that its fixed....i hope that this post helps someone else with similar problems...just go rebuild the carb throughly.
Another post daid he fixed it with carb cleaner, sprayed into the carb.
Definitely work to restore your vacuum lines to optimal. I've read that the diagrams are in the owners repair manual. find one at Mazda? ebay?
Here is a link to help this is very helpful, including vacuum diagrams for many models, his website is mazda specific, it's really great, you'll see.
http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/Vacuum.html
I Personally think that the carburetor and vacuum lines are the kicker. Although the timing is very important, really observing the symptoms leads me back to air.
The cotrolled furnace of the engine needs air at the right mixture or it chokes and dies... pointing right to the caruretor.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/f301-b_series_bravo_bounty_drifter.html
Did you know that half the threads i've read in this column are basically the same question. This is apparently very common.
It appears to be 1-5 things.
1. Vacuum lies+
2./ 3./ 4. Carburetor/choke/stock suggested air filter(apparently important)
4. Vehicle specific timing
5. Soleniod(never heard any responses about this one).
These are 3 ways that I have documented in my reading (as I also have the same problem), that others have finally found some or complete sucess.
------------------------------
Common complaints:
Lean fuel at high speeds/ bucking and loosing power while cruising. Irregular idle/ shuts off applying brakes while moving. Pumping the gas pedal to restore proper acceleration.
One guy exclaims, I HAVE FINALLY FIGURED IT OUT!!!
Here is his post:
I HAVE SOLVED THE PROBLEM.......TURNED OUT TO BE THE CARBURETORS SECONDARY VACUUM DIAPHRAGM...was slightly cracked, creating a
(WOOPS (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/../#)
vacuum leak and not opening the secondary properly, and allowing it to close when at higher rpms, starving the engine of gas and air...created rather odd symptoms while driving, but makes sense now that its fixed....i hope that this post helps someone else with similar problems...just go rebuild the carb throughly.
Another post daid he fixed it with carb cleaner, sprayed into the carb.
Definitely work to restore your vacuum lines to optimal. I've read that the diagrams are in the owners repair manual. find one at Mazda? ebay?
Here is a link to help this is very helpful, including vacuum diagrams for many models, his website is mazda specific, it's really great, you'll see.
http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/Vacuum.html
I Personally think that the carburetor and vacuum lines are the kicker. Although the timing is very important, really observing the symptoms leads me back to air.
The cotrolled furnace of the engine needs air at the right mixture or it chokes and dies... pointing right to the caruretor.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/f301-b_series_bravo_bounty_drifter.html
86mazdaB2000
03-05-2008, 09:38 PM
how do you post an original title on here wihout responding to another's??????????????
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