Motor Updates... Again

Here's the update on my Girlfriend... Yeah my motor is my girlfriend. It's like the real thing, it takes all my money and never puts out. :tongue:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/264002383Plugs.jpg
This is take while I was gapping my plugs and putting on the wires and redoing the gasket on my valve covers. I didnt like the way I did it before so I redid it better. Now I can actually get the bolts into the holes!:bigthumb:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/718987383Headers.jpg
Here's the final deal with the valve covers bolted down, all the wires hooked up and of course the headers.

Weeee aren't I just badass?.... Ok so I'm not.. but my motor is slowly getting there.

Pretty soon... the list of things needed is drawing to a close. Since the motor will be done before the car is ready for it. I'll probably spend some money on having the motor broken in and professionaly dyno tuned so I can get an accurate baseline.

question: what entails a professional break-in?

do they run in on one of those machines at a certain rpm for a while or something to simulate miles?

Well, basically get it started and allow it to run at idle and under a light load for about 15 minutes. Shut if off, and retighten all the bolts like the heads, headers, oil pan, valve covers... that sorta thing.

You're basically making sure there are no leaks of fluid. You can do this in the car, but if the motor is out of the car it makes it that much easier to get to bolts to tighten them.

Looks pretty nice:bigthumb:

Look sweetas mate!

Not bad for dynosaur tech though :iceslolan
j/k

Ahhh the memories of the Chev V8 and that distinct sound.

Originally posted by RazorGTR
Look sweetas mate!

Not bad for dynosaur tech though :iceslolan
j/k

Ahhh the memories of the Chev V8 and that distinct sound.


Ah yes... but my Dynosaur tech motor is making nearly as much as yours without the aid of hair dryers. :biggrin2:

Hehe Friendly bashing aside... :tongue:

I'll be upgrading the technology factor of the motor in due time. Probably the first thing to get swapped will be valve train. It'll take just under $1000 to do the swap on the entire valve train to a roller camshaft. But the power gains are incredible. For another $2000 I can convert to EFI. Those two upgrades alone should be enough to push the motor to 500hp N/A.

After all that I think I'll save up for Aluminum Heads, I can sell my Iron heads for some cash. So it wont be as hard of a hit.

THEN... After ALL that is done. hahaha. I'll rip the motor out, and rebuild it with forged pistons (Yeah I know the forged pistons should of been in there to begin with... doh!), bring the compression down 1 point to 9.25:1 and slap on a Procharger Supercharger. That with all the rest of my goodies should put me at about 650hp on low boost.

Sounds as though you have it sussed out! My first small block I had done in my 72 Vette was pushing @425hp mark, and I thought that was the bees knees aye. It had a fair bit of torque and in that Vette with the lighter weight went really well. Have you thought about pro-jection ( I believe that is what it is called) in stead of carbs? Or the possibility of running a tunnel ram with a twin 600 cfm setup? Should give you a well balanced inlet charge over a large single. I went to twin AFB 500 Carters and noticed a huge difference though we had to rejet them smaller as I wasn't burning all the fuel. Cam profile makes a huge difference also.

Hey you mention swapping over to ally heads, why? Other than weight for what you are trying to acheive there isn't much in it except overal cost. A really good porting job with 185/202's providing you are using the heads off an early 70's 350, perferably that off a Vette with fuel injection. They had slightly larger combustion chambers, can't remember the cc rating off hand.

Have you thought about binning the mechanical fuel pump and water pump? I've never been a fan of that mechanical fuel pump as it puts a hell of a beating on that cam lobe, and if you go eletctric water pump you can also run electric fan(s) which is another thing I've been a fan of. I've considered on going to eletric fan on the R as I hate clutch fans full stop, plus I can preset at what temp level to come on.

Very nice looking engine even if is a Chevy:tongue:

350ci, not a stroker? FI are a lot better for the street, but that is pretty much known. Sorry for pointing out the obvious.

What cam you got in there? What Compression? You Chevy boys run 2.02 and 1.85s, we normally run 2.02 and 1.65.

Originally posted by RazorGTR
Sounds as though you have it sussed out! My first small block I had done in my 72 Vette was pushing @425hp mark, and I thought that was the bees knees aye. It had a fair bit of torque and in that Vette with the lighter weight went really well. Have you thought about pro-jection ( I believe that is what it is called) in stead of carbs? Or the possibility of running a tunnel ram with a twin 600 cfm setup? Should give you a well balanced inlet charge over a large single. I went to twin AFB 500 Carters and noticed a huge difference though we had to rejet them smaller as I wasn't burning all the fuel. Cam profile makes a huge difference also.

Hey you mention swapping over to ally heads, why? Other than weight for what you are trying to acheive there isn't much in it except overal cost. A really good porting job with 185/202's providing you are using the heads off an early 70's 350, perferably that off a Vette with fuel injection. They had slightly larger combustion chambers, can't remember the cc rating off hand.

Any idea what those heads you mentioned would flow? Just curious. I been telling him for I don't know how long that he needs to throw in a SOLID ROLLER CAM and make REEeAAALLLL POWER! Especially since it won't be a daily driver, hehe:biggrin: Come now Matthew, you know you want to...


Originally posted by SkylineUSA
Very nice looking engine even if is a Chevy:tongue:

350ci, not a stroker? FI are a lot better for the street, but that is pretty much known. Sorry for pointing out the obvious.

What cam you got in there? What Compression? You Chevy boys run 2.02 and 1.85s, we normally run 2.02 and 1.65.

His motor is a 383...Or he'll probably correct me and say it's like a 384.516515215965121548 or whatever it is:biggrin:

Ahhhh Solid roller cam. I can hear that sweet ticking noise now. And everyone will tell you need oil cause your valves are ticking lol

Looks real good Redneck... But the distributor belongs on the front of the engine!:biggrin:

Pardon my lack of knowledge about cams and valves and all of those unneccesary things (:biggrin: ) But what's the difference between a solid roller cam and..well..a normal cam i guess?

Really not sure on what they would flow, though Tom Baum in Chicago did them. He reckoned they would be fine for up to 650hp.

You don't have to go solid roller cams to get good hp though self. We used to get 500-600hp all day long out of a small block 350 with the right combinations using mechanical roller cams.

242deg/250deg, .580/.625 lift cam, harland sharp roller rockers, mechanical roller lifters are a good base.

RazorGTR, the main reason why I want to go to Aluminum heads is for cooling. Weight isnt much of a big thing for me. The aluminum heads as you may know dissapate heat much better than iron. Thus helping the fight on detonation. I'm running 10.25:1 compression now with the Iron heads... on the verge of being not street friendly.

Now some of you may point out that LT1's and LS1's have high compression and dont have a problem. This is true, but I've got a very old school motor. The LT1's and LS1's have a reverse flow water pump. Meaning the cooled water flows through the heads first before going to the block. This coupled with aluminum heads keeps detonation from not being a problem. My motor is a standard rotation water pump.. thus Heat is a problem. And before somebody asks... no you cannot do a conversion. I know.. sucks. I'm also going to buy me a Aluminum radiator and dual electric fans to help keep the temperatures way down. I want it to run off of pump gas... I dont want to have to buy Race gas.

Also, the power of a tunnel ram and multiple carbs would be fun... but I'm trying to keep it all under the stock hood for the "Sleeper" effect.

Self, The block is .060" meaning its technically a 388. :tongue:

Current Motor Specs:
Blue Printed and Balanced 388ci or 6.3liters
350 4 bolt main Bored .060" Over w/ 3.75" Stroker Crank
Comp Cam Extreme Energy Hyd. Cam .477"/480" Lift, 224*/230* @.050 268*/280* Adv. Dur., 110 L/C
Comp. Cams Roller Tip rocker arms
Dart Iron Eagle Heads 200cc Intake Runners 2.02"/1.60 Valves
Edelbrock RPM Airgap Intake Manifold
Holley 750 CFM Carb Double Pump Mechanical Secondaries
MSD Distributor and Ignition w/ 6000rpm Limitor
Hooker Headers Competition Headers

The long block is advertised to make:
423hp @ 5500 RPM
437ft-lbs of Tq @ 4500 RPM

Thus with Roller cam and Fuel Injection I should gain another 60-70hp. And one hell of an ego. :cwm27:

redneck if you are very worried about detonation put a knock sensor on

Originally posted by Neutrino
redneck if you are very worried about detonation put a knock sensor on

This would make things to easy.. you know this.


Bad Neutrino.. You should know by now i do things the hard way! :twak:



:biggrin:

Originally posted by RedNeck383


This would make things to easy.. you know this.


Bad Neutrino.. You should know by now i do things the hard way! :twak:



:biggrin:

I'm so sorry.....btw why are you using watercooling....the cool way is to have your engine aircooled.....you be da bomb then

Wow things have definetly changed around here, lookin good redneck can tell your not taking any short cuts.

Originally posted by Neutrino
redneck if you are very worried about detonation put a knock sensor on

Sounds like some new fangel crazy Ricer Idea to me!!!:icon16:

Originally posted by HemiGeorge
Wow things have definetly changed around here, lookin good redneck can tell your not taking any short cuts.

That's because I run things here now:biggrin: Haven't seen you in a while, welcome back.

Originally posted by RazorGTR
Really not sure on what they would flow, though Tom Baum in Chicago did them. He reckoned they would be fine for up to 650hp.

You don't have to go solid roller cams to get good hp though self. We used to get 500-600hp all day long out of a small block 350 with the right combinations using mechanical roller cams.

242deg/250deg, .580/.625 lift cam, harland sharp roller rockers, mechanical roller lifters are a good base.

BAH! Solid's > hydro's:biggrin:
262/274 @ .700" = GREATNESS, lol.
Or even better, 268/272 @ .700"
The wonders of a solid roller:biggrin:
I have no problem with hyro's at all, just always been a proponent of the solid roller cam for people who have the time, knowledge, and know-how to keep then in line. They're certainly not for every driver or every car (daily drivers beware!), but they have their place, and their power-making potential is unrivaled.

600hp out of an un-stroked 350? Very impressive. My motor was putting out over 500 on the engine dyno NA, but at the rear wheels substantially less. I thought I was pretty much as close to the limit as I could get too. But I guess there's always an extra 50hp somewhere!:biggrin:

True self but as you mentioned solids are not for everyone. Considering the constant adjustments that have to be done, daily street driving is not really a good option. As you also know power out of an N/A is made via cam profile, intake/fuel deliver, heads, and header design.

Will be interesting to see what your beasty makes when it is done Redneck. You going to slap it up on an engine dyno or rolling road dyno when done?

I run a solid on my daily driver back home. Every 1000 miles, lash is adjusted.

Of course I would not run a cam as big as 262/274 @ 700. I bet that car ran smooth.

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
I run a solid on my daily driver back home. Every 1000 miles, lash is adjusted.

Of course I would not run a cam as big as 262/274 @ 700. I bet that car ran smooth.

If smooth equates to gurgling, burping and near cutting off, then yea, smooth as a babies behind:bigthumb:

What was your DD back home? I think you mentioned it before in another post, but I forget...

Boss 302 Cougar Eliminator. I still have it, oh ya....

If smooth equates to gurgling, burping and near cutting off, then yea, smooth as a babies behind LMFAO

Steel,

Pardon my lack of knowledge about cams and valves and all of those unneccesary things ( ) But what's the difference between a solid roller cam and..well..a normal cam i guess? Solid and a Hydro.

A Solid is just that, solid. Cam strikes the lifter, pushes the push rod, moves the rocker, and opens the valve.

Hydro(Normal) requires oil pressure the pump up the lifter.

They both have advantages, but the solid is a much better pefromer for a well built engine.

I will be running a Solid Roller in my Turboed small block FORD V8, R32 GTR. :bananasmi

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
I will be running a Solid Roller in my Turboed small block CHEVY V8, R32 GTR. :bananasmi

Sounds nice man:bigthumb:

Originally posted by Self


If smooth equates to gurgling, burping and near cutting off, then yea, smooth as a babies behind:bigthumb:


That is the sweet sound of pushing the limits of a motor. Awesome sound... as long as you did change the cam.

Dude,

You slay me.
I will be running a Solid Roller in my Turboed small block CHEVY V8, R32 GTR.

I can build more reliable power with a Ford....I did it now:loser: :D

Nice work man, but it nowhere compares to my awesome project car's engine!


Muhahahaha

You PWNZ Polygon!

:biggrin2:



RazorGTR, I'm seriously considering taking the motor when finished to a dyno and it tested at the crank... which should be in the coming weeks. Gotta save the $$$...

After the car is ready for the motor... still need to paint and take care of a few things in the car to make it pretty... I want to go take the car and have it chassis dyno'd so I can get an accurate calculation how much powertrain loss I have.

With 425hp.. I estimate about 360hp to the ground... Respectible... maybe. But no where near where I want it.

Yeah, I must be honest, my current motor is a pile of shit. :biggrin:

With 425hp.. I estimate about 360hp to the ground... Respectible... maybe. But no where near where I want it. But its a 383, you are going to have a nice power curve, with plenty of torque. Torque makes me smile.....:biggrin: see

I would think with more power than that, you tend to break stuff. Then again, thats were the fun starts.

Nice engine. Did I miss your cam profile? Sorry, your girlfriends cam profile.

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
But its a 383, you are going to have a nice power curve, with plenty of torque. Torque makes me smile.....:biggrin: see

I would think with more power than that, you tend to break stuff. Then again, thats were the fun starts.

Nice engine. Did I miss your cam profile? Sorry, your girlfriends cam profile.

Comp Cam Extreme Energy Hyd. Cam .477"/480" Lift, 224*/230* @.050 268*/280* Adv. Dur., 110 L/C


it needs to be bigger... and a roller. :biggrin:

That should be fairly smooth. Looks like a good all around cam.

The specs are for 1.6 rocker, right? Go with a 1.7 the cam will change to a 506/510 226/232 lob sep 110.

I will always like running a higher rocker ratio, rather than making it up at the cam.

man matt your girlfriend is sexy, can i have a turn with her?