More sliderz

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/RockSliderZ.shtml


http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/Xterra04.jpg

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/Xterra02.jpg

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/Xterra03.jpg

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/Xterra05.jpg

At first glance, nice, and excellent price. But, those bars between the two long pieces are just going to hang your ass up on a rock big-time when one finds its way between the "rungs" of the ladder it forms. I'll pass. Not that your rocker wouldn't pretty much be toast if they weren't there though. That would have to be a pretty bad line in the first place.

Brent

But I would fill that gap that Brent was taking about. Just lay a strip of 1/4" all the way down with drainholes at the bottom.

Am I the only one who can't see these things? The pictures come up as red X's and I can't access the website. This is the second time I've tried since Schlud posted this. Um, I want to see damnit!

Yes, covering the gaps with a plate of steel would be preferable. That would suck to get something hung up in there. These sliderz also seem to follow the "I only drop onto rocks" rule. Whereas most of the stuff I encounter seems to be offcamber slides into rocks, or where you have to pivot around the rock.

For that I still prefer the EOE's extension away from the body.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?s=&postid=85601

Originally posted by ChuckH
Um, I want to see damnit!

Maybe you should try my glasses!

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/avatar.php?userid=450&dateline=1006494152http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/avatar.php?userid=450&dateline=1006494152http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/avatar.php?userid=450&dateline=1006494152http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/avatar.php?userid=450&dateline=1006494152http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/avatar.php?userid=450&dateline=1006494152

Very interesting design. It basically captures the benefits of both the EOE and Calmini designs. I agree with everyone's comments, that gap between the two rails isn't good. I read everyone's posts while I waited for Schlud's pics to download (56K baby!!) and I was thinking the design had a 1-2" gap between the rails, but that looks closer to 6-8". With a smaller gap, you could get a tip of a large rock up there that would ruin your day, but with the larger space, you could get a large portion of rock up in there and ruin your weekend. If the rock was narrow enough, you could still puncher the underside of your X (See the 3rd picture Schlud posted).

If you look at the designer's website, his original design had the outer rail angle out from the rig at both ends. He said this was so the rig pushed away from the rock as the tires approached. This seems pretty smart and a good design. I wonder why they didn't continue with that feature?

Weight?
Maybe not an issue for most, but my X is becoming the behemoth.

One last idea (I know I've posted about this before) would be to place a hole with in the intersection of each side at the point of one of the cross braces (ie a hollow cavity throughout) before welding it together. Later, if wanted the bars could be drilled and tapped (easy to do) and act as reserve tanks for a on board air system.

You guys are killing me! I want to know what everyone is talking about! :confused:

Originally posted by ChuckH
You guys are killing me! I want to know what everyone is talking about! :confused:

Just to torment Chuch a bit more.....

Schlud,
third picture from the top, do you have the truck jacked? (Hope so, otherwise you might want to crank that right torsion bar!!!)

I'm assuming you have jacked it up using a hi-lift to test it out. That was a concern I would have due to increased leverage.

Another idea I had was if one of the shops (Skid row, Calmini, EOE) would make a bolt on cross brace from one side of the frame to the other near a slider mount location. Some have commented that the Nissan frame can twist with enough force generated by jacking from the sliders. I was wondering if there was a way to reinforce the frame near a mounting location to prevent twisting?????

Originally posted by ned946
Another idea I had was if one of the shops (Skid row, Calmini, EOE) would make a bolt on cross brace from one side of the frame to the other near a slider mount location. Some have commented that the Nissan frame can twist with enough force generated by jacking from the sliders. I was wondering if there was a way to reinforce the frame near a mounting location to prevent twisting?????

I have highlifted off my EOE slider several time and havn't noticed any flex. I did manage to flex one side up about 3/16" into the verticle seam under the rocker but that was operatore error. I thought I was going to miss a log angled onto the trail so I didn't slow down. I popped way up and slamed down onto the slider. Slider did its job, if it wasn't there I wouldn't be opening my passenger side door anymore.

I didn't realized how often my sliders see use until I looked under them last night. They are scratched and gouged to all hell.:devil:

:flipa:

Originally posted by ned946


Just to torment Chuch a bit more.....

Schlud,
third picture from the top, do you have the truck jacked? (Hope so, otherwise you might want to crank that right torsion bar!!!)



My truck is the Red one offroading. :D

BTW what were you smoking when you made this comment? :D

I do think that the ARB is very light and with regular off-road use will get very banged up (irreversibly so). (http://www.xterraownersclub.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=25&F=25&t=000488)

Originally posted by Schludwiller




BTW what were you smoking when you made this comment? :D

I do think that the ARB is very light and with regular off-road use will get very banged up (irreversibly so). (http://www.xterraownersclub.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=25&F=25&t=000488)

I was smokin' the joint of personal experience!
I do think that over the same trails, if you were to compare the Calmini to the ARB after a good year of serious off-roadin', you'll see a difference. Due to the crappy approach angle of any Xterra, hits are going to be unavoidable........I guess time will tell! :rolleyes:

Originally posted by ned946


I was smokin' the joint of personal experience!
I do think that over the same trails, if you were to compare the Calmini to the ARB after a good year of serious off-roadin', you'll see a difference. Due to the crappy approach angle of any Xterra, hits are going to be unavoidable........I guess time will tell! :rolleyes:

I saw in your other post that you were mentioning the L-brackets looking like J's. Yeah, I missed that part of abuse when thinking of the ARB I guess because I expect that part to be dinged up, and I don't usually see it that often.

The rest of my ARB has held up quite nicely despite some good tree/stump impacts, so I was thinking it pretty tough despite all the abuse it's seen.

I agree the lower triangle part is pretty thin (mostly cosmetic, the structural part is still in good shape). Thanks for passing the pipe back. :D

This may help clear up a few questions! :smoker2:

click here! (http://www.xterraownersclub.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=000995)

Man those sliders suck! (inside Joke)

Thats exactly why I will take receipt of mine on Monday BABY! You didn't warn me that Roger is a T A L K E R on the phone. He even got into the humidity index and which compensations he will make for the POR-15 to cure. He is hardcore crazy mod guy!

Laterz

Damn, how did you get him to swing Monday??? :eek:

Not bad, not bad at all!!! Oh, yeah I forgot to mention that Roger can talk yer ear off, be careful! hehehehehe..... Oh and when you go over to pick up the sliders, prepare to spend some more time talking to him! :D

Umm.... Yeah.... umm.... yeah.... that's it..... yeah..... - Drove me a bit crazy at times, espcially since I would stop by during lunch and end up spending like an hour there. But I must still say that he is a GREAT guy!!!

Umm... Yeah... :bloated:

Originally posted by OffroadX
At first glance, nice, and excellent price. But, those bars between the two long pieces are just going to hang your ass up on a rock big-time when one finds its way between the "rungs" of the ladder it forms. I'll pass. Not that your rocker wouldn't pretty much be toast if they weren't there though. That would have to be a pretty bad line in the first place.

Brent

Out of curiousity, how are the rungs created between the bars on this design different from the rungs created between the bar and the frame of the X with normal slider designs? :confused:

Thanks

You'd be hard-pressed to set the single-bar sliders on a rock that could get between the bar and the frame rail, but it would be much easier to set these down such that a rock could get between the two bars.

Brent

BTW Huey welcome to the board. Glad you could come by to talk about your new sliders. Don't worry about the comments, just honest questions from people who like to talk about their trucks.

Sometimes I feel like an angler trying to reel in the offroader owners out there. :D

http://ebooks.whsmithonline.co.uk/ENCYCLOPEDIA/thumbs/C00091.gif

Scoot - let me know how those work out for you. I'm still having a hard time seeing how there would be that much difference in "hang-up-ability" on rocks between this design and others on the market. The angle of the ladder rungs should keep rocks out justr as well as the small space in the EOE or Calmini. Let's face it, if you're going to get hung, it will find a way to happen.

BTW Huey welcome to the board. Glad you could come by to talk about your new sliders. Don't worry about the comments, just honest questions from people who like to talk about their trucks.

No prob. Schlud. I just wanted to clear a few things up. I do agree that there is a possiblity that you could get hung up, but none of the 4Runner guys have had any problems so far and they have been running this design for quite some time now. goofiefoot hit it on the nail, when he said

Let's face it, if you're going to get hung, it will find a way to happen.

But you can always add the steel plating I guess. Comments are great, they are what make a better product!

I really like this forum, lots of good information from people that actually wheel! :flash:

:confused: Can you highlift off those ladders? Looks like a lot of leverage.

Whats the construction? 2x2 box? I like having a 4" area to land on a rock, leaves more room for error than 2".

The sliders are 2x2 and yes you can highlift off them. I would have to say that there is more than enough room for error though.

From the back on a 4Runner:
http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/nerf_02.jpg

From the front on a 4Runner:
http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/nerf_11.jpg

Looks like those 2" tubes are flexing? Maybe they are bent that way in fabrication? I like to over-engineer stuff when I bulid it, so I think I would have the front of that tube joining the main tube.

Nope, not flexing, those are the "kick-outs" that are optional, to push the tire clear of the obstruction somewhat.

Brent

Actually I think what rrdstarr is looking at the outer bar being above the inner bar.

The outer bar is placed about 1" above the inner bar to provide more clearance. And yes the the slider will flex a little bit, it is designed to. That is why the inner bar is placed below the pinch seam. When the load gets really heavy the inner bar will push up on the inner seam and use the body to help lift the rest of the weight.

You can see the angles a little bit better here:
http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/nerf_05.jpg

Hmmm... looks like it works.

I don't like the idea of the slider flexing up to my body and using my body to help lift the weight of the vehicle. If the slider will flex up to the body durring highlifting, I'd worry about what would happen when the truck dropped onto a rock, the force would be many time the actual weight of the vehicle. I would expect this to push the slider up into the body and damage it.

I'd love to see a set in action.... but not on my truck. :smoker2:

Originally posted by Goliath the X
Hmmm... looks like it works.

I don't like the idea of the slider flexing up to my body and using my body to help lift the weight of the vehicle. If the slider will flex up to the body durring highlifting, I'd worry about what would happen when the truck dropped onto a rock, the force would be many time the actual weight of the vehicle. I would expect this to push the slider up into the body and damage it.

I'd love to see a set in action.... but not on my truck. :smoker2:

Flexing will occur...If it didn't flex, then it woud break. If properly designed, the flexing will hit the pinch seem evenly and distribute the weight across the whole panel. The rolled body panels and pinch seem are very strong if the load is transferred evenly across the whole seem. The reason they normally bend without sliders, or even with EOE's Sliderz is because the full weight if the truck is on a very small area.

Now, I', not saying that EOE's are worse, or that they have flexed enough to bend the pinch seem, but with suffecient force, they could. Calmini's would be even worse, because of the even smaller area of the brackets.

Just my opinions and a little knowledge. So don't start flameing me about comparing other products or slamming any other companies, because I'm not....:bandit:

Cliff

Originally posted by Goliath the X
If the slider will flex up to the body durring highlifting, I'd worry about what would happen when the truck dropped onto a rock,

After seeing pics of his truck and the sliders and reading the list of trails he's hit with them, I think its safe to assume he's dropped the truck onto a rock before. "Rubicon, Fordyce Creek (Sierra Trek), the McGrew Trail, several trips through the Hammers in Johnson Valley, Dusy-Ershim, Moab Utah - including Pritchett Canyon, Rusty Nail" Yep, I'd say he's dropped the sliders on a rock.

As Cliff said the design allows the force to be equally distributed along the seam. As with any design there are advantages and disadvantages. I personally dig these, but am still unsure whether I'll buy them. While these have definetly been tested by a 4Runner, I like the knowing EOE's have performed great on the X.

Dog

I didn't realize the pinch seams are that strong.

By themselves in a small section, they aren't. However combine spreading the weight across the full length of the seam and the fact that the slider is still supporting 95% of the weight and they are strong enough. Remember, the only weight that is actually placed on the pinch seam is what the slider can't handle. And that little bit of weight is spread out over a large area.

But by themselves, the pinch seams crinkle and bend fairly easily. Just take a look at my truck. I can tell you exactly how many times the seam has contacted a rock, root, or just dirt. Because there is a ding/bend for every contact.. :o

Cliff

Cliff, you are spot on with all your explainations! One would think you already have a set!!! :sun:

But I'm planning on Fabbing some up real soon. I have been weighing all the different designs. While I'm not sure just yet how I like the ladder type design, I do think putting a solid bar directly underneath the pinch seam is one of the best designs I've seen.

I say this, because I've heard stories of some sliderz flexing and even tweaking the frame. If the slider flexed and redistributed the extra weight along the pinch seam, then maybe the frame would not have tweaked.

Personally, I try to be a more finesse type driver. I would much rather ease down onto a rock and let the slider work, rather than slam down and hope nothing bends. But I also realize that sometimes there isn't a choice. And for those times, I want something that will hold up to the punishment and not cause damage elsewhere such as frame tweaking.

Sadly though, it seems like every idea I have, someone else beats me to actually getting it produced. Great minds think alike, some just act quicker..:flipa: Of course, A benefit to that is if the design or idea is a bad one, then I'm not the guinea pig....

Cliff:frog:

I ordered a set of the 4Crawler SliderZ a few days ago. Frankly, this fabricator was not my first choice, but when I initially inquired about pricing for a set of SliderZ including shipping, Roger Brown immediately replied with a price, various options, and approximate delivery dates. That really impressed me! Some names I'm sure you folks are familiar with, left me hanging in the wind. Doing business shouldn't be like pulling teeth. Getting accessories for an Xterra is hard enough here in Hawaii. My hat is off to you Roger Brown, Mahalo!

Its great to hear your happy with your decision and you have been treated well! I agree with ya on business conduct!

One question on the sliders.... How much do they weigh?

Originally posted by ned946

Another idea I had was if one of the shops (Skid row, Calmini, EOE) would make a bolt on cross brace from one side of the frame to the other near a slider mount location. Some have commented that the Nissan frame can twist with enough force generated by jacking from the sliders. I was wondering if there was a way to reinforce the frame near a mounting location to prevent twisting?????

Whadoya think wilburburns?

Wouldn't the same thing be accomplished if you have a full set (or even just the transfer case) skidplate? You are bolting 3/16" plate steel from frame to frame and short of welding, that is probably one of the strongest cross-ties you can get. I would think you would have to hit pretty darn hard to flex the frame with that bolted across it. It wouldn't alter the top of the frame, but it should add sufficient structural rigidity to minimize frame torque problems.

Originally posted by ned946
Its great to hear your happy with your decision and you have been treated well! I agree with ya on business conduct!

One question on the sliders.... How much do they weigh?

The "Standard SliderZ" I purchased weigh 74 lbs. The heavy duty "Ultimate SliderZ" weigh 94 lbs. The difference is the thickness of the outer rail. 1/8" Standard, 3/16" Ultimate.

My EOE sliderz weigh a 100lbs for the pair and the wall thickness is 1/4". Guess with smaller tubes and the outer rail it comes close to the weight of mine.

Originally posted by rrdstarr
My EOE sliderz weigh a 100lbs for the pair and the wall thickness is 1/4". Are you sure about the thickness? :confused:

I believe the rectangular and square tubing is 3/16" thick and the plate that mounts to the frame is 1/4". I could be wrong, but we could always ask Todd for clarification if necessary.

Originally posted by ned946


Whadoya think wilburburns?



First off, 90% of all the sliderz manufactured now are bolt on. Just ask Todd what his preferred method of installation is. This is what he will tell you.

Best.....Weld On....
Second Best.......Drill completely through the frame and bolt on...
Typical....Use the existing holes for the step rails and bolt on...

Now if you look at the small footprint of the 3/16" mounting plate, it becomes the weak link. Extreme amounts of twisting pressure are placed on the frame in a small area. The first thing I would do to help eliminate this is increase the size of the mounting plate. Also drill completely through the frame to mount the sliderz...Now, I would place a long (12" preferred, but hard to do) 3/16 backing plate on the inside of the frame rail. This combined with a larger mounting plate on the front should significantly reduce the ability to twist and flex. Basically I would sandwich the frame rail in between 2 3/16" steel plates, creating a larger contact point..(see my previous post about the strength of the pinch seam....Same concept)

There are some problems with this...Weight being 1, more holes would need to be drilled (not an easy task). Also, Some flexing is necessary. If the metal will not flex, then it will crack or break. The forces required to do this are great, but in the right situation, it could happen. Nearly all current designs could be strengthened at eh frame mounting locations by drilling completely through teh frame and sandwiching it as stated before.

I don't see the need for any more crossmembers for the frame..

Cliff
I hope that makes sense..If not, I could make up a drawing to clear things up...

Disclaimer......I am not a fabricator, builder, engineer, reseller, or expert. All info in all my previous posts are for reference and are compiled from examining other products and my research and limited knowledge of stress and force. I also think all current designs are good, it just depends on what you like. I would much rather have a bar or some area on the slider itself to fail before the frame bent. Body work to repair a bent sheetmetal is much cheaper than repairing a bent frame..:bloated:

Originally posted by warmonger
Wouldn't the same thing be accomplished if you have a full set (or even just the transfer case) skidplate? You are bolting 3/16" plate steel from frame to frame and short of welding, that is probably one of the strongest cross-ties you can get. I would think you would have to hit pretty darn hard to flex the frame with that bolted across it. It wouldn't alter the top of the frame, but it should add sufficient structural rigidity to minimize frame torque problems.

As I understand it, the Skid row Plates to not extend out to the frame rails. They are only under the center of the truck, therefore not adding to the structure of the frame rails.

But again, as I understand it, the bending of frames or flexing, is due mostly because of the small contact footprint of the mounting locations. If they were attached to both sides of the frame rail, this may not happed at all...

Cliff

Cliff you are right about the mounting methods, just a small bead along the bottom of the frame plates will make a big difference. Making the mounting plates larger will not due much and must be gusseted more as well, this is because you are still pulling on the weld on nuts inside the frame.

Craig you are right my design uses 3/16" tubing for the main tube and the three tubes connecting it to the 1/4" frame plates, they weigh about 116 pounds shipped, about 100-105 unboxed. I use cold rolled steel, if the 4 Crawler 3/16" sliders are that much lighter the steel is not cold rolled.

Lopaka congrats on your slider purchase, I know you realized shipping of my sliderz would have been close to the purchase price and i was trying to arrange other shipping options for you as my best friend is one of the big wigs at a very large international shipping firm...while his company does not go to Hawaii he was tring to pull some strings with friends at other shipping lines to get a set of sliderz added to a container for free or at a very good rate for you.

Should have just put them as "carry-on" for your flight back from Seattle. :D

Lopaka congrats on your slider purchase, I know you realized shipping of my sliderz would have been close to the purchase price and i was trying to arrange other shipping options for you as my best friend is one of the big wigs at a very large international shipping firm...while his company does not go to Hawaii he was tring to pull some strings with friends at other shipping lines to get a set of sliderz added to a container for free or at a very good rate for you. [/B][/QUOTE]


I wish you had told me that Todd. I really wanted the EOE Sliderz and would have been willing to wait for the shipping arrangements to be sorted out. As it stands, I am paying more for shipping the 4Crawler SliderZ to Hawaii than the cost of the merchandise, anyway ($240.00 shipping). Notwithstanding, I was willing to pay the cost of shipping your Sliderz, too. Shipping to Hawaii is obscene, but if you really want something not available here you have to bite the bullet. I'm ok with this Todd, just a little disappointed I didn't get your rock sliders, which I consider to be the best.

Originally posted by FSRBIKER
Cliff you are right about the mounting methods, just a small bead along the bottom of the frame plates will make a big difference. Making the mounting plates larger will not due much and must be gusseted more as well, this is because you are still pulling on the weld on nuts inside the frame.


While I agree to a point...I may not have been exactly clear. And here's what I meant...

If the mounting plates were larger and bolted (preferably welded) to more locations, then effectively, the force is being spread out across a larger area. Let's take my 12" long mounting and backing plate for example..If there were 6 bolts spread out 2 on each end, and 2 directly by the tubeing locations (which should be in the center of the mounting plate), then you would effectively be spreading the load across a larger area, strengthening the area.

I don't know the exact measurements of EOE's or anyone else's mounting plates, but these are examples.

12"x4" mounting plate spreads the force across 48sq" of frame...

As compared to...(example purposes only)
5"x5" mounting plate spreads the force across 25sq" of frame only.

In my thinking, the more you spread out the force, the stronger they will be. I agree that more gusseting may be required. Now if we really want to get technical, all the mounting bolts with the exception of 1 could be placed alont the bottom of the mounting plate. This is because more strength is needed from forces on the bottom than on the top.

If my logic is wrong, someone please explain. Like I said before, I'm no expert.

Cliff

I think I misread or just did not fully understand what you meant, by drilling holes through the frame for added bolts yes this will be stronger....I thought you meant just a larger plate using the stock holes. But instead of going through all the effort of drilling through the frame I would suggest just welding along the bottom of the mounts if you did not want to weld all the way around...drilling and welding would be ideal but I think overkill.

Lopaka thanks for the compliment on the sliderz...sorry i should have kept you in the loop with the plans, I was trying to get them shipped for free and then surprise you with the news.

Originally posted by Schludwiller
Should have just put them as "carry-on" for your flight back from Seattle. :D

That's not too far-fetched, Schludwiller. Roger offers his 4Crawler SliderZ in kit form without the long bars. Imagine trying to explain to scanner personnel what all those parts in your carry-on are really for! :rolleyes:

Todd, I figured I just didn't explain it well enough...Adding larger mounts without also changening the bolt up points would be worthless..

As for a direct bolt on product without drilling or any other work, the current mounting plates are as good as they are going to get.

Is there really a big problem with people bending the frame and causing damage? I'm just wondering, because I do think all the products are strong. I don't count simple flexing while Hi-lifting a problem. I'm thinking more along the lines of permanent frame rail damage..

Cliff

Hey Lopaka, I know you wanted the EOE's but ended up getting Roger's sliders, but truthfully tell me how you feel about the sliders you got in a month from now. Honestly, I don't think you really got a bum deal.

Originally posted by wilburburns

Is there really a big problem with people bending the frame and causing damage? I'm just wondering, because I do think all the products are strong. I don't count simple flexing while Hi-lifting a problem. I'm thinking more along the lines of permanent frame rail damage..

Cliff

Why not just tack weld them, and forget about it? It will take all of about 5 minutes, and you won't have to worry about whether or not the factory mounts are strong enough.

Are you worried about welding them to the frame? You can cut the weld with a die grinder (with no damage to the frame) if you ever need to take them off. I think that is a better solution than drilling holes in the frame.

Take a look at allprooffroad.com. Their Toyota sliders are similar to ours, but welded to the frame. They have photographs where they are slamming them into rocks with no problems.

Originally posted by ScottG



Are you worried about welding them to the frame?

After re-reading I see you suggested welding them. I think that is the simplest solution. Drilling and sandwiching the frame, in my opinion, is more complicated and doesn't accomplish much.

But there are some that don't like the idea of welding to the frame. Why, I don't know but everyone has their reasons. So, I was throwing out suggestions on what might help the strengthen them even more.

Now, I do think that sandwiching the frame would be the second strongest method, it would be a real PITA. But it's a feasable option for some..:cool:

BTW: According to my poll, all this talk is for no reason, because nearly noone has had any of the possible problems mentioned in this thread..:frog:

Cliff

Originally posted by wilburburns

BTW: According to my poll, all this talk is for no reason, because nearly noone has had any of the possible problems mentioned in this thread..:frog:

Cliff

Yeah, but that maybe because noone has truly abused them. I could see them bending the frame if you slam the entire wieght of the truck onto a rock.:D

I plan on welding mine, I'd rather have a little bit of overkill. Even if you just weld a small bit along the bottom; I think that would be enough and it wouldn't be too hard to grind off if you ever want to remove them.

Originally posted by ScottG


Yeah, but that maybe because noone has truly abused them. I could see them bending the frame if you slam the entire wieght of the truck onto a rock.

Is that even possible? That would certainly speak volumes of ones driving skills. Personally I view my sliders as insurance instead of a license to drive carelessly.

Originally posted by ScottG


Yeah, but that maybe because noone has truly abused them. p

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/nono.gif

Not so fast buddy, I sure as hell did. :D

Originally posted by Sc00ter


Is that even possible? That would certainly speak volumes of ones driving skills. Personally I view my sliders as insurance instead of a license to drive carelessly.

If you are rock crawling it is possible. Not that I have done any serious rock crawling in the Xterra. Anyway, it must be possible to bend the frame since one persons says they did it. The site I metioned above had a write up on their sliders in Peterson's in which they recommended welding the sliders to the frame over bolting them. It would be so easy to weld a small bead along the bottom, I don't see any reason not to do it. I guess I will carry more insurance than you :D

Originally posted by Philosopher


http://www.plauder-smilies.de/nono.gif

Not so fast buddy, I sure as hell did. :D

Yours was the one that bent wasn't it?:rolleyes:

I've seen your photos, I know you know how to subject the Xterra to abuse :p