yukon electrical problems

having electrial problems, two of them.
first the voltage is running around 11 1/2 on some days other days it runs at around 14, and one day it ran the battery down.
I replaced the atlernator and the it still runs 11 1/2.
I do not know much about anything elect. on cars if they are newer than a 1955 chevrolet.
the other problem is in the electric seat and power door locks.
the circit braker over heats and kicks out, replaced it and the same thing happened. I removed the braker and just use the key, but would like to be able to unlock the pass doors without leaning over to do it.
My main concern it the voltage.
Can anyone help me?

i would have to guess maybe a short somewhere in the wires for tripping the breaker. the voltage problem could be any number of things. you might want to have the nearest dealer check it out.

I agree that a trip to your favorite GMC dealer would be a good idea, but I might make the following observations:

I find the same output voltages on my unit - - the lower voltage is indicative of lower speeds when both front and rear air conditioners are running at maximum - - or when my Airstream trailer is in tow. The higher voltage is indicative of a light load - - only front air conditioner at normal city or highway speeds. My unit now has 90,000 miles and the alternator is original and the varying voltages have been with the vehicle since day one - - I special ordered the vehicle from my GMC dealer so know its entire history.

If the battery was run down after being left overnight, it is possible that one of the door switches may be faulty - - or as was the case with my unit - - I inadvertently hit the remote rear hatch release button twice and the rear hatch was open just enough to allow the interior lights to cycle on and off throughout the night - - result a nearly dead battery the next morning.

The circuit breaker may be faulty. Another possibility - - and this is a VERY long shot - - if the rig has had a trailer wiring connection installed and any of the wires were misdirected, strange short can be the result.

I have experienced the same problems with my GMC, except my engine nearly stalls when the voltmeter spikes. My GMC service "technician" and I use that word loosely, tells me it is normal for the spiking and the near stalling. After 5 attempts, they were unable to recreate the condition and have essentially told me that it is in my head. My alternator was also replaced, and I was assured that the problem had been resolved. However, driving away from the dealership, the voltmeter spiked and the car engine nearly stalled.

Please be careful. I have written GMC and the Better Business Bureau but they do not seem particularly interested in my concern. Fortunately, I am meeting with my State's Attorney General next week. We will see if he is similarly ignored.

If memory serves me correctly, we had some issues with the power drivers seat switch rubbing through on the seat frame. Try unscrewing it and pulling the switch panel out, you will probably see the power wires chafed a bit where they pass over the frame.

check out the recall for the positive battery cable on 01 yukons

Fuse 13 blows regularly on my truck. Dealer while under warrantee simply replaced fuse and put vehicle back in service. Fuse 13 on a 95 controls locks, tailgate, 6 way seat and cig lighter. Now my truck is sucking battery dry. Simptoms are fuse 13 blown, breaker "A" very hot, and I can't figure it out. I have opened every door and disconnected lock actuators, removed cig lighter from harness, diconnected seats, removed radio, removed cd player, followed harness to the rear and haven't found the short. I'm looking for suggestions. The key fobs when fuse 13 was blown used to still cycle receiver but now I don't hear that happening. Can anybody tell me where the remote receiver is located?