In need of HELP!

well as you all know i'm a newbie

and in need of assistance.. here's the situation i might get a used civic around february or sooner
and i would like to do a engine swap to make the car faster...
i'm pretty sure i'm gonna get a 95-98 civic sedan..

what are some good engine swaps with vtec that will fit?

thx ahead i really appreciate it

Well 95 and 96 are pretty different. You have to tell me which styling you like better, the 92-95 years, or the 96-00 years. I personally like the 92-95. I would try to find a 95 civic EX. It has to be an EX though. There is tons of aftermarket for this car. I would get one with low miles and put a turbo kit on it. Or if you like the 96-up also get an EX and I suggest getting the Edelbrock turbo kit. This kit will give you plenty of power to walk all over a GSR with bolt-ons, and even beat Type R's.
Engine swaps are much more involved than most people think. It requires a lot of tools and facilities that 90% of most people don't have. Putting a turbo kit on is pretty simple and straight forward and requirse only basic tools.

my dad was a mechanic in the army
and i really want to go all engine, i need a reliable daily driver
so i prefer the engine swap

do you think my dad will be able to put in a engine with ease?

and what are good vtec engine to use

well i dunno which one i prefer to tell you the truth cuz, i'm gonna be putting a body kit on it which model would look better with a body kit?

Army vehicles and new imports do not mesh well together. They are completely different and I doubt your dad could do it. Well he could probably install it but he wouldn't know anything about hooking it up and all the electronic stuff.
Anyway, a turbo on a stock car will be WAY more reliable than a JDM engine swap. I've heard mostly bad stories about those engines, reliability wise. The only way they are reliable is to buy one and rebuild it first. I have NEVER heard of one lasting more than 2 years. But I have heard of turbo'd civics running 4 years and still going.
The best engine to get if you want to swap would be a B18C1. It has 180 HP. But is has a price tag of about 3K, but there are plenty of other expenses such as motor mounts(400-500) and different axles($?). And the turbo kit on your car would still be faster. The Edelbrock turbo kit is totally complete. It gives you 170 HP to the wheels, which BTW will be faster than swapping in the B18C1 and not to mention CHEAPER and more reliable.
Reliability issues only come in when idiots like to turn up the boost thinking it will give more power and they forget to add more fuel making there engine blow up. Also running more boost puts more strain on the engine causing it to break something. But if you stick to what the kit comes set at (7 PSI) it will be more reliable than a engine swap.
I would suggest getting a 96-up simply because it's easier to find one with less mileage. But make sure it comes with VTEC, I think only the EX model has that.

anybody else wanna give me some feedback please?!

Originally posted by PWMAN
Anyway, a turbo on a stock car will be WAY more reliable than a JDM engine swap. I've heard mostly bad stories about those engines, reliability wise. The only way they are reliable is to buy one and rebuild it first. I have NEVER heard of one lasting more than 2 years. But I have heard of turbo'd civics running 4 years and still going

I have to totally disagree. I've had the exact opposite experience. I have a good friend who boosted his built D16Z6 and constantly broke shit, got tired of replacing things, bought a 2nd gen JDM B16A snd never complained once. I have friends from back in high school that have the same swaps since 98. I'm sure that everyone here will agree that a stock or "streetable" Honda motor will last, at the very least, 200K with routine maintenance. Can you please explain why you think that a motor that was not built for boost would last longer on boost than a stock JDM motor? I just can't comprehend that.

Originally posted by PWMAN
The best engine to get if you want to swap would be a B18C1. It has 180 HP. But is has a price tag of about 3K, but there are plenty of other expenses such as motor mounts(400-500) and different axles($?). And the turbo kit on your car would still be faster. The Edelbrock turbo kit is totally complete. It gives you 170 HP to the wheels, which BTW will be faster than swapping in the B18C1 and not to mention CHEAPER and more reliable.

I agree that the B18C1 is a great swap with a 170hp. The JDM B18C has 180. Anyways, I'm pretty sure that when you said, " The Edelbrock turbo kit is totally complete " , I'm pretty sure you did'nt mean all the other things associated with making a "reliable" turbo setup IMO such as fuel system upgrades like injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump or even low comp pistons and stronger rods. After all is said and done, the costs would be the same with your dad installing the engine of course. I know your dad could do it with basic mechanical skill or even limited mechanical skill with a Helms manual. PWMAN, I know you said on 7psi but IMO even running 7 psi on a stock D series is not as reliable as a JDM or even USDM B series swap.

thx a lot b16ej1

but with my new found power what would i need better suspensions? breaks? rims? would i need to put a diff kind of gas in?

Suspension can wait if you lower correctly meaning filling the wheel well and not totally dumping it. With some H&R's or even Skunk2 coil-overs w/ a mild drop the stock shocks will suffice long enough to save up for some gas shocks. I do suggest a rear disc brake coversion which can be found from around 150-250. Not to pricey IMO. Nothing more will be needed. As far as wheels go, IMHO it's not necessary. Some people buy wheels that look good but are heavy as f*ck and I don't understand it but it is their car so.................. Others choose wheels that are light as hell and look good. Depends on where you plan on taking this but wheel weight and size makes a big difference. Also, most VTEC B series do require higher octane gas due to higher compression.

what kinda engine do you have?

Originally posted by B16EJ1


I'm pretty sure that when you said, " The Edelbrock turbo kit is totally complete " , I'm pretty sure you did'nt mean all the other things associated with making a "reliable" turbo setup IMO such as fuel system upgrades like injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump or even low comp pistons and stronger rods.

I see you don't know much about the Edelbrock kit. It comes with a Performer X manifold and a secondary fuel rail with 4 additional injectors on top of your stock ones. And it comes with ALL necessary electronics to control and moniter fuel and timing and boost control. It's meant to go on a completely stock D16Y8 (which is better than the D16Z6 BTW) and be completely reliable. The only thing I see is that you might need to buy a fuel pump.
How many miles did your friends car have on it?
What turbo kit did he use?
Does he have the necessary knowledge to tune his vehicle?

Lower compression pistons and stronger rods are not necessary for only running 7 PSI. It's when you want to upgrade and run more boost is when there is a problem. The turbo kit on his car will smoke any stock B18C1 swap. It will probably beat a C5 swap of he gets a 3'' exhaust system because the kit makes 170 WHP with everything stock including stock cat and muffler-open up the exhaust and thats good for probably 15 WHP, atleast 10 over stock anyway.

Originally posted by PWMAN


I see you don't know much about the Edelbrock kit. It comes with a Performer X manifold and a secondary fuel rail with 4 additional injectors on top of your stock ones. And it comes with ALL necessary electronics to control and moniter fuel and timing and boost control. It's meant to go on a completely stock D16Y8 (which is better than the D16Z6 BTW) and be completely reliable. The only thing I see is that you might need to buy a fuel pump.
How many miles did your friends car have on it?
What turbo kit did he use?
Does he have the necessary knowledge to tune his vehicle?

Lower compression pistons and stronger rods are not necessary for only running 7 PSI. It's when you want to upgrade and run more boost is when there is a problem. The turbo kit on his car will smoke any stock B18C1 swap. It will probably beat a C5 swap of he gets a 3'' exhaust system because the kit makes 170 WHP with everything stock including stock cat and muffler-open up the exhaust and thats good for probably 15 WHP, atleast 10 over stock anyway.

As I said, "pretty sure". So I was wrong but I never said I was a FI guy anyway and don't really care about the Edlebrock kit. D16Y8 better than the Z6? Why because of the whole whopping 2 more hp? Don't use that arguement because I'm tired of hearing it. His motor had just over 100K so it's still a healthy Honda engine and he was a damn good mechanic. You name it he did it. He installed my friends Drag turbo setup on my friends GSR as well fully built his Greddy turbo'd Z6. He also built all motor applications for a bunch of other friends. He was pushing 10-15 lbs daily on the Z6 and had it for a couple years and had to swap pistons and rods out a couple times. Yes you have proven that more power will be put to the ground but you have not answered any of my questions. Read my posts again. I NEVER claimed that the JDM swap would lay down more power to the wheels. I questioned a few of your opinions and yet you come out with no answers and just throw up random points that were never argued in the first place. Like I said, take a deep breath, read my post, and throw something at me that pertains to my disagreements with your original post. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by B16EJ1

His motor had just over 100K so it's still a healthy Honda engine and he was a damn good mechanic. You name it he did it. He installed my friends Drag turbo setup on my friends GSR as well fully built his Greddy turbo'd Z6. He also built all motor applications for a bunch of other friends. He was pushing 10-15 lbs daily on the Z6 and had it for a couple years and had to swap pistons and rods out a couple times.

Well it sounds like your friend drove the car pretty hard. Plus that 10-15 pounds on a built engine. Did he ever boost the stock engine? If not your whole argument was invalid, because I'm talking about boosting a stock engine. And if you say it was stock I won't believe you because there is no way stock D series rods are going to handle 10, let alone 15 PSI boost. They will snap like a twig. Oh, no wonder he was always breaking stuff. You are comparing 10-15 on a modded D16 VS 7 PSI on a stock one?
And I was merely making a point that the turbo'd D16 would be faster than a B18C1 swap.
And how do think that the turbo kit will cost as much as the swap? There is WAY more involved in a swap. Not to mention all the labor it takes to put it in when you can install a turbo kit in a day.

Originally posted by PWMAN


Well it sounds like your friend drove the car pretty hard. Plus that 10-15 pounds on a built engine. Did he ever boost the stock engine? If not your whole argument was invalid, because I'm talking about boosting a stock engine. And if you say it was stock I won't believe you because there is no way stock D series rods are going to handle 10, let alone 15 PSI boost. They will snap like a twig. Oh, no wonder he was always breaking stuff. You are comparing 10-15 on a modded D16 VS 7 PSI on a stock one?
And I was merely making a point that the turbo'd D16 would be faster than a B18C1 swap.
And how do think that the turbo kit will cost as much as the swap? There is WAY more involved in a swap. Not to mention all the labor it takes to put it in when you can install a turbo kit in a day.

My arguement invalid??? Your last two posts have nothing to do with my original arguement and you have yet to answer my question. I have lost all hope for you. You are totally avoiding the fact that any JDM swap is still a 100% more reliablbe than a stock D series boosted. If your Edlebrock kit includes all of the parts you listed then that alone totally negates your arguement. An upgraded fuel system on a boosted motor as well as the other crap provided does not qualify as stock. Stock means, take the average aftermarket turbo kit, bolt it on your car and drive off. I used my friends turbo'd Z6 as a "built for turbo" daily driver that even then needed maintenance more costly than the average JDM swap. You say that a turbo swap is easier than a motor swap. Have you ever even installed a turbo? I've helped install the Drag turbo on the GSR and helped swap B16's and B18's. The turbo is more of a science than swapping a motor that parts are readily available at a handful of shops/junkyards. I highly doubt you have any first hand experience in either and even if you do you obviously have a hard time holding onto information. Thank you for yet another worthless arguement. I apologize, XixGenuinexiX, this in no way is of help to you .

there is no way stock D series rods are going to handle 10, Now tell me if i'm wrong but isn't a ZC considered a D series? cause i've seen ZCs push 10 PSI on stock bottom end.

Originally posted by B16EJ1


My arguement invalid??? Your last two posts have nothing to do with my original arguement and you have yet to answer my question.

WTF is your question, since it seems I've answered everyone except the one you want obviously.
And yes I've installed 3 engines and did 1 turbo install. My brother is a mechanic and I do it as a hobby. Turbo was pie compared to the engine swaps, what a freakin headache all those were:biggrin2: .

Originally posted by Ace$nyper
Now tell me if i'm wrong but isn't a ZC considered a D series? cause i've seen ZCs push 10 PSI on stock bottom end.

The ZC has a different block than the Z6 and Y8. 10 is still pushing it though.

B18C1

is this engine a vtec?

Originally posted by PWMAN


WTF is your question, since it seems I've answered everyone except the one you want obviously.


Originally posted by B16EJ1
I have to totally disagree. I've had the exact opposite experience. I have a good friend who boosted his built D16Z6 and constantly broke shit, got tired of replacing things, bought a 2nd gen JDM B16A snd never complained once. I have friends from back in high school that have the same swaps since 98. I'm sure that everyone here will agree that a stock or "streetable" Honda motor will last, at the very least, 200K with routine maintenance. Can you please explain why you think that a motor that was not built for boost would last longer on boost than a stock JDM motor? I just can't comprehend that.


A B18C1 is a USDM Integra GSR motor.

so is it better going b16 which has vtec or going b18 without vtec?

You have way too many questions that can easily be answered by simply using the search function in this very forum.

Originally posted by B16EJ1



A B18C1 is a USDM Integra GSR motor.

Yeah I knew that, what is your point?

Originally posted by XixGenuinexiX
B18C1

is this engine a vtec?

PWMAN, you're a retard. I was answering this question. No one's talking to your dumbass.:rolleyes:

Stiil no answer though huh? That's what I thought.

Originally posted by B16EJ1


PWMAN, you're a retard. I was answering this question. No one's talking to your dumbass.:rolleyes:

You are the moron, you didn't even answer his question. He asked ''is this engine VTEC'' he didn't ask what car it's from genius.
And why don't you look back to your post, you replied with a quote from MY post.
And I still don't know what question you want answered, why don't you refresh my memory?

i need to know obd2 sensor vtec engines

Anything from 96-newer is OBD2.

i wanna be able to keep air conditioning is it posible? if not i don't want a b18

This is the question I asked you in my FIRST POST.:rolleyes:


Originally posted by B16EJ1

Can you please explain why you think that a motor that was not built for boost would last longer on boost than a stock JDM motor?

Originally posted by B16EJ1
This is the question I asked you in my FIRST POST.:rolleyes:




Because you're stock engine you know the condition of. If it doesn't have a lot of miles or it wasn't beat a lot, it should be OK. A JDM engine you don't know about. They claim it only has 30K miles or whatever, but how do you know thats true? Or even if it is true someone could have beaten the crap out of that engine and the bottom end could be toasted. You never know. But you do know about the condition of the engine thats in the car now.

Originally posted by PWMAN


Because you're stock engine you know the condition of. If it doesn't have a lot of miles or it wasn't beat a lot, it should be OK. A JDM engine you don't know about. They claim it only has 30K miles or whatever, but how do you know thats true? Or even if it is true someone could have beaten the crap out of that engine and the bottom end could be toasted. You never know. But you do know about the condition of the engine thats in the car now.

Most engine dealers to compression tests to check the state of any given motor. Even if the motor was mashed on, the engine is still in stock form with stock ecu. There's no way that the motor was able to rev higher do to the oem rev limiter. Basically after a compression check, all that's left is the valvetrain and tranny which are easy to test yourelf and tell tale signs of either going bad are obvious. A USDM boosted motor is in no way more reliable than a stock JDM motor. That's a fact.

will i be able to keep my air condition..

.....................

i would like to shed some light on the differences of the y8 and z6 sohc motors.....the differences mainly are cyl head design. the y8 combustion chamber is designed to help reduce detonation, great for turbo or nitrous applications. but the port design doesnt allow for great high rpm flow over 200hp. the z6 on the other hand has a better port design which allows for better high rpm breathing. i wont mention anything as far as cams because they can easily be changed out. imo i would go with the y8 engine.....why? the head design already has a better essistance to detonation than the z6....also the ports can be modified to flow like the z6 does. which you probably will end up having the head ported anyways. http://www.hadamotorsport.com/Z6IntakePort.JPG http://www.hadamotorsport.com/Y8IntakePort.JPG http://www.hadamotorsport.com/D16IntakePorts.JPG http://www.hadamotorsport.com/D16HeadComparison.JPG now on the subject of the bottom end being able to barley handle 10psi of boost. depends on the tuner and way the car is driven. http://www.digitalstar.com/dirty91crx/images/69560.JPG now alot of people have told me that the d15b2 stock rods are crap....not able to deal with a 55 shot of nitrous at all. so far 4 months and many 75 shot testing down my street.....the only problem i have come accross was burning a valve. the rods have held up. i do agree that d16 oem rods will eventually go out at any givin time with 10psi. but its not impossible to run that way if tuned properly as well as conservativly. i will as most of you others out there will suggest upgrading rods and pistons as well as a block guard for around 15psi reliably. i see also the issue of reliability compared to a jdm motor. i dont beleive you can say one will be more reliable than the other. one must base the desicion on tuning....as well as how you treat your car.....me i beat the shit out of my car....the motor has not failed me yet....but i have gone through 2 trannys in a 6 month period. while on this subject wouldnt you want to rebuild your jdm motor for peice of mind b4 installing it into your car? i know i did....new gaskets...bearing...rings the whole 9 yards. i like to make sure things are going to last if i buy it from someone not know the condition of the motor....and also how can you compare the condition of a jdm motor by compression test alone. this only tells you rings, head gasket, head, valves, valve seats are in good condition....what about the oil pump, the iac, the bearings. things of that sort cannot be checked without disasembling the motor or running it. now as of the person who origionaly posted this thread has asked if they can keep the a/c on the car....i wouldnt know. my question to you is do you need the a/c? removing the a/c system is good for 20lbs or more.